Comments on: CarpentryFilter: What solutions, traditional or otherwise, might I employ to fix the problem of exposed points of wood screws?

Question: CarpentryFilter: What solutions, traditional or otherwise, might I employ to fix the problem of exposed points of wood screws?

chefscotticus — Tue, 29 May 2007 13:13:30 -0800

CarpentryFilter: What solutions, traditional or otherwise, might I use to fix a problem exposed points of wood screws?

I've built a storage bin for the backyard with plywood, two-by-fours, and a variety of screws -- some of the screws are too long and their points have penetrated through the wood and are now have about 1/8 inch exposed.

I don't want anyone to get scratched (or worse) -- what solutions can you propose for fixing this problem?

By: dnthomps

dnthomps — Tue, 29 May 2007 13:25:34 -0800

Use shorter screws.

By: cosmicbandito

cosmicbandito — Tue, 29 May 2007 13:27:31 -0800

get a strong side cutters or bolt cutters and cut the screws off flush with the wood. The part that's extended past the wood isn't giving you any additional grip anyway.

By: bondcliff

bondcliff — Tue, 29 May 2007 13:31:16 -0800

Cut them off with a hacksaw or Dremel.

By: Terminal Verbosity

Terminal Verbosity — Tue, 29 May 2007 13:32:19 -0800

Get an angle grinder ($40-$100; or a grinding attachment for a power drill...I got one at Ace for about $7) and grind down the screw tips. If you want you can wood putty over the cavities too, though that might be overkill if it's just a storage bin in the yard.

By: davey_darling

davey_darling — Tue, 29 May 2007 13:43:19 -0800

Low-buck: Pound on the exposed points with a hammer. As long as the wood that they are screwed into is thick/solid enough, the points should blunt before the screw loosens in any way. Try to hit them with glancing blows so the tips fold over if possible.

By: bondcliff

bondcliff — Tue, 29 May 2007 13:51:44 -0800

Also, if looks arent a concern you could screw some small scraps of wood to the ends or just coat them with something less stabby, such as caulking or epoxy.

By: Krrrlson

Krrrlson — Tue, 29 May 2007 14:01:11 -0800

Seconding Dremel.

By: Good Brain

Good Brain — Tue, 29 May 2007 14:19:27 -0800

Dremel, bastard file, or angle grinder

By: JJ86

JJ86 — Tue, 29 May 2007 14:30:26 -0800

Angle grinder. If you get too excited while doing this, wood putty will fill the holes.

By: The Deej

The Deej — Tue, 29 May 2007 15:11:04 -0800

My Deejineered solutions:

Depending on how far they stick out, and what kind of screws they are, you may be able to give them a swift whack with a hammer at a 90 degree angle, and actually break off the point. I have done that several times. (Didn't have shorter screws, but DID have a supply of laziness.) You could try a chisel as well.

Another method I once used: SillyPutty. (Spackle would work too.) Cover the points with a healthy blob.

Just a hint: don't hire me as your contractor.

By: Mitheral

Mitheral — Tue, 29 May 2007 15:54:06 -0800

If they are just barely poking thru give them a tap with a framing hammer (not your finishing hammer, screws are hard enough they'll mess up the polished surface of a finishing hammer). Use a nail set if you can't swing the hammer in the space.

If the screw is exposed a lot I first apply the hammer to blunt the points and then use a course belt in a belt sander to bring the screws level with the wood. Warning: the flush screw shaft will be very hot for a minute or two after this. Keep bare skin away.

By: flabdablet

flabdablet — Tue, 29 May 2007 17:23:12 -0800

Seconding the bastard file. Not worth plugging in a power tool for a few 1/8" points.

By: fair_game

fair_game — Tue, 29 May 2007 19:56:34 -0800

Thirding the file. 1/8 of an inch would only take a few passes each. I bought a cheapo second-cut file that I use for stuff like that.