Lumpy lawn
May 9, 2007 3:41 PM Subscribe
Suggestions for a lumpy lawn?
The lawn in my new home is quite lumpy. There are a lot of little dips and hills all throughout the lawn. I don't know exactly what caused this. I believe the previous owner had a dog; maybe the dog liked to dig.
Whatever the reason for its lumpiness, I'd like to delump it. I looked around at places like Home Depot, but all I saw were large, heavy barrels that were meant to be towed behind a tractor. My lawn is too small for a solution like this. Nor could I afford to just tear everything up and resod (and really, the grass is fine, it's just lumpy)
The lawn is small enough that I think this problem is solvable with a shovel and some dirt, but I'm not really sure how to make it happen.
So can anyone teach my the secrets of an even lawn? Thanks in advance.
The lawn in my new home is quite lumpy. There are a lot of little dips and hills all throughout the lawn. I don't know exactly what caused this. I believe the previous owner had a dog; maybe the dog liked to dig.
Whatever the reason for its lumpiness, I'd like to delump it. I looked around at places like Home Depot, but all I saw were large, heavy barrels that were meant to be towed behind a tractor. My lawn is too small for a solution like this. Nor could I afford to just tear everything up and resod (and really, the grass is fine, it's just lumpy)
The lawn is small enough that I think this problem is solvable with a shovel and some dirt, but I'm not really sure how to make it happen.
So can anyone teach my the secrets of an even lawn? Thanks in advance.
I am currently working on a combo of the previous 2 answers - not adding sand though, just using a mix of topsoil and peat moss. Mow your lawn as short as possible, then add the soil (or take away as necessary), sprinkle on some additional grass seed, top with a 1/4" layer of peat moss, water twice a day to the 2-3 inch line for root growth. Now would also be the time to get your lawn dethatched or aerated if it is needed.
posted by blackkar at 5:59 PM on May 9, 2007
posted by blackkar at 5:59 PM on May 9, 2007
for the love of pete, do NOT use sand or peatmoss.
Sand is not a good soil amendment (even if you have heavy clay soil)! and potting soil isn't good for lawns either--it's better for pots, what with the amount of peat and/or coir.
Peat moss is not a good soil additive--when it drys out it's very very difficult to rewet. Also, it's harvesting is piss poor for the environment. (A good substitute for peat in potting mixes is coir fiber which is harvested from coconut fibers)
it'll take a few years, but the best way to do it is to topdress the lawn with some compost (best) or topsoil. Spread the compost over the lawn, over the grass, and gently rake it smooth over the lawn, aiming for like 1/4 inch depth over most places, and filling in the indentations with a little more.
I wouldn't cut into the turf at all if the grass is healthy, because bare patches are never pretty. topdressing takes longer, but is more attractive in the interim
posted by kumquatmay at 7:52 PM on May 9, 2007
Sand is not a good soil amendment (even if you have heavy clay soil)! and potting soil isn't good for lawns either--it's better for pots, what with the amount of peat and/or coir.
Peat moss is not a good soil additive--when it drys out it's very very difficult to rewet. Also, it's harvesting is piss poor for the environment. (A good substitute for peat in potting mixes is coir fiber which is harvested from coconut fibers)
it'll take a few years, but the best way to do it is to topdress the lawn with some compost (best) or topsoil. Spread the compost over the lawn, over the grass, and gently rake it smooth over the lawn, aiming for like 1/4 inch depth over most places, and filling in the indentations with a little more.
I wouldn't cut into the turf at all if the grass is healthy, because bare patches are never pretty. topdressing takes longer, but is more attractive in the interim
posted by kumquatmay at 7:52 PM on May 9, 2007
A word of warning: I dealt with this by adding 2 inches of soil to the whole lawn (a tremendous effort), raking it level, and adding new seed. But I did NOT rent one of those large rollers to compress the dirt. The grass grew beautifully but a few months later the lumps returned, and I think that not compressing the dirt was the reason.
posted by underwater at 9:08 PM on May 9, 2007
posted by underwater at 9:08 PM on May 9, 2007
It depends how much time you have. I'd be tempted to rotovate the lawn, then rake flat, and then reseed. That way you'll get a flat garden that's well drained with some terrific grass. The problem is the hard work, and also the fact your garden will be a mess for a few months. Ideally you want to be doing this when the earth is damp too.
I don't know where you live, and "rotovator" might be a foreign term to you. Basically they're mechanical cultivators that turn over the soil.
posted by humblepigeon at 1:34 AM on May 10, 2007
I don't know where you live, and "rotovator" might be a foreign term to you. Basically they're mechanical cultivators that turn over the soil.
posted by humblepigeon at 1:34 AM on May 10, 2007
For a small yard, a Turf Hound is just the thing. Basically, you Turf Hound the heck out of your high spots, and chuck the cores into your holes. Unless your yard is clay (in which case the plugs can bake into Confederate bullets in a hot summer sun), you need do little more than water and mow normally for the yard to level out in a season or two. Working a small yard an hour or two, several evenings a week for one summer, you can accomplish a lot. Add a reacher to your tool kit to avoid bending over to toss plugs to the low points, if your back isn't all it could be.
posted by paulsc at 1:51 AM on May 10, 2007
posted by paulsc at 1:51 AM on May 10, 2007
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by caddis at 4:50 PM on May 9, 2007