A pinch of this, a dash of that

April 28, 2007 8:34 AM

I'm about to restock my spice cabinet, and I'm hoping to get some advice on what herbs/spices/extracts I should invest in. What dried herbs/spices vary most in quality?

I can detect a substantial difference in the taste of recipes that use high quality vanilla or cinnamon, so those are two that I am willing to spend a little more money on. It's also been my experience that no dried dill, basil, or cilantro can come close to the taste of fresh, so I don't keep dry versions of these (though if anyone has found such dried herbs that can even nearly replicate fresh, I'd love to hear about it). Can I get a dried rosemary or ginger as tasty as fresh? Is there a real difference between cheap and costlier cumin, nutmeg, thyme, onion powder, etc? What dried herbs/spices do you think are worth spending extra money on for a higher quality product?

I know that there are ways of releasing/retaining better flavor from various herbs/spices (as by toasting, grinding with a mortar/pestle, adding earlier or later during the cooking process), and while I won't overlook any tips, my question is really about the selection of high quality spices themselves. I'm a pretty adventurous cook, so nothing is really off limits in terms of spices/herbs/etc I'd consider stocking my cabinet with. I'll be ordering from Penzey's in a day or two (but if you have strong opinions on other online spice retailers, let me know). If there are any particularly amazing spice blends (Penzey's pizza seasoning is OUTSTANDING), I'd love to hear about those as well.

posted by roundrock to food & drink (24 comments total)

My main advice is to get things as close to whole as you can--don't choose powders where you can get flakes, don't choose ground where you can get whole. It sounds like you already know that, but fwiw, I find the place where it makes the most difference is rosemary. Rosemary dried as complete leaves and then soaked in oil and chopped up isn't as good as fresh, but it's somewhat close. Rosemary bought already ground is utterly detestable.

One thing I really like from Penzey's is their varieties of whole mustard seeds. They come in different types and add a different flavour to the dish depending on which type you use.

They also sell a variety of dried whole chilis that I think would be really interesting to experiment with. I just order the anchos because that's what I use in my chocolates, and I don't have the stomach for capsaicin in general but if you like spicy hot, they have a ton of different chilis to work with.
posted by jacquilynne at 9:07 AM on April 28, 2007

I'd suggest a jamacian jerk blend if you don't have one already
posted by craven_morhead at 9:10 AM on April 28, 2007 [1 favorite]

I'm a big fan of Penzeys. I've ordered quite a lot from them, for myself & as gifts. Any time I had a question, they've answered it quickly & completely, and offered plenty of helpful suggestions.

You mentioned cinnamon. I like their China Cassia Cinnamon.

Although I always prefer fresh garlic, I like to keep some dried garlic available "just in case." Penzeys has some pretty good Minced Californian Garlic, which is pretty strong--in a good way, not like ordinary dried garlic you'd find in a grocery store.

I like their Whole Tellicherry Indian Black Peppercorns, and if you don't already have a pepper mill, I'd HIGHLY recommend a William Bounds mill, particularly the "HM" 8" Professional Pepper Mill, which is the one I own. On a side note, I bought my pepper mill about 7 years ago. A month ago, it stopped working, so I sent it back to them for repair/replacement under the lifetime warranty. I paid for the shipping, included the required check for $6 return shipping, and within 2 weeks, I had a brand new one.
posted by NYScott at 9:17 AM on April 28, 2007

I like Chunky Chat Masala if you can find it in your area it's worth checking out. Arvinda's make some nice Indian spices and are easier to find if you don't actually have an Indian market close by.

I don't have a brand recommendation, but if you've never tried Red Za'atar, a Lebanese blend of spices.

You might also like lemon verbena if you can find it.

If you're into cocoa, Green & Black's is grand, though I guess not really a spice. ;)

As for grinding spices, if you really want to teach them a lesson, pick up a Sumeet Asia Kitchen Machine.
posted by dobbs at 9:26 AM on April 28, 2007

Of the spices you mentioned in your post:

• Dried ginger and fresh ginger are different beasts, with different uses. It's one of the only spices for which I would never try to substitute one for the other.
• If any spice illustrates the importance of getting whole rather than pre-ground, it's nutmeg. Get whole nutmegs, and a rasp-style grater if you don't have one.
• Onion powder? Why not just use real onions?

posted by Johnny Assay at 9:27 AM on April 28, 2007

Oops, meant to say that the za'atar is a very interesting blend that is delicious in spreads (especially a sun dried tomato spread).
posted by dobbs at 9:27 AM on April 28, 2007

Oh, and for grating nutmeg, ginger, and citrus zests, check out Microplane.
posted by dobbs at 9:29 AM on April 28, 2007

I was astounded a couple of years ago to discover that paprika actually has a flavor as well as a color. The brand I use now is called 'Pride of Szeged'. I've never tried grinding whole paprika.
posted by ikkyu2 at 9:32 AM on April 28, 2007

This might fall under tips and tricks rather than purchasing the best quality spices, but I strongly suggest that you make your own chile powder* rather than buying it preground.
Dried chiles can be bought in bulk at most Latino specialty stores. They should not be dry and brittle, but pliable, and smell like spicy dried fruit. I like to pick out a selection and mix them; guajillo chiles, ancho chiles, chiles de japon, New Mexico chiles, California chiles. It's up to you. Keep in mind that the names of dried chiles are different from the same chile fresh(for example fresh ancho chiles are called poblanos).

Use scissors to cut the tops of the chiles. I like to use tons of chile powder to add lots of flavor without overpowering heat, so I remove the seeds; if you want to use your chile powder mostly for it's heat, leave them in. Grind them in a food processor or coffee grinder; go for tiny flakes, not powder.

Freshness matters, so keep the chiles in a cool dry place and make a small amount of chile powder at a time. Here's
a photo of some of my chile powder; I'll blaze through that little magnetic spice jar in about a month and then make a new batch.

*not chili powder, which is a seasoning blend for chile con carne and contains cumin in addition to ground chiles
posted by Juliet Banana at 9:34 AM on April 28, 2007

Add another vote for the Tellicherry peppercorns and the Szeged paprika, hot or sweet.
posted by Max Power at 10:22 AM on April 28, 2007

The best quality spices are the freshest. I'd recommend finding a place that sells spices in bulk and has a high turnover. Then purchase as small an amount as you can. I find that .06 of a pound (about 1 ounce, or 25 grams) is the smallest amount that can be weighed on a grocery store scale. This is a lot cheaper, too.

I'm guessing that you're in Houston? I am, and get most of my spices at Fiesta. Whole Foods and Central Market are also good sources.
posted by found dog one eye at 10:50 AM on April 28, 2007

I can detect a substantial difference in the taste of recipes that use high quality vanilla or cinnamon, so those are two that I am willing to spend a little more money on. It's also been my experience that no dried dill, basil, or cilantro can come close to the taste of fresh, so I don't keep dry versions of these (though if anyone has found such dried herbs that can even nearly replicate fresh, I'd love to hear about it). Can I get a dried rosemary or ginger as tasty as fresh? Is there a real difference between cheap and costlier cumin, nutmeg, thyme, onion powder, etc? What dried herbs/spices do you think are worth spending extra money on for a higher quality product?

Your instincts are sound, IMO. I'd add (flat-leaf) parsley to the list of herbs that taste like sawdust when dried, but is a relevation when fresh.

Dried rosemary (not ground, though!) holds up beautifully. There is a huge difference in flavor between less-expensive and more expensive cinammon and paprika. I keep both high-quality ground cumin and cumin seeds on hand. Onion powder, celery salt, etc...the cheap stuff is fine. You're generally just adding it to cheat some insta-depth, not featuring it as a flavor.

I do think there's something to be said for getting a really good-quality garam masala. Yes, I have most of these spices separate, but mixing a good garam masala is an art.
posted by desuetude at 11:19 AM on April 28, 2007

I'd go with blends for distinctive regional/ethnic mixes that contain ingredients you're less likely to use separately: za'atar; a ras el-hanout; possibly a baharat; and yes, a good garam masala. But buy them according to how you'll use them: freshness is all.
posted by holgate at 11:58 AM on April 28, 2007

I just jarred some winter savory that I dried myself. I'd not ever used savory, but found a plant last year, was intrigued by the smell of the leaves, and I love it. It's wonderful in salad dressings, pasta sauces, soups, and would probably be agreeable with chicken. Definitely try it. I'd suspect it would be better fresh than dried, but I've only tried fresh to date.
posted by amtho at 1:27 PM on April 28, 2007

Some of the spices that I always make sure I have are Old Bay Seasoning, cumin, curry, basil, rosemary, dill, italian seasoning, onion powder, garlic powder, cream of tarter, cinnamon, nutmeg, and cloves.
posted by raspberry21 at 1:48 PM on April 28, 2007

Not exactly what you asked, but everything I've gotten thru Penzey's I've loved. They ship. When we lived near a Penzey's though, we had one relative who rigged the extended-family gift giving lottery to ensure she got the gift from us, since she knew we always bought Penzey's spices.
posted by selfmedicating at 3:20 PM on April 28, 2007

I highly recommend buying fresh and drying yourself for those herbs you can find in the market, not only is it cheaper but the freshness really makes a difference in flavor. The least delicate herbs keep best this way, and I can almost always find rosemary, thyme and oregano either at the farmer's market or at the grocery store in the produce section. To dry them just unbundle and lay out on a cookie sheet for a few days until dry, then run the twigs between thumb and forefinger to strip the leaves off and put in a jar. One bunch is about equivalent to one spice jar when dried.

The more delicate herbs can't take drying, my best luck so far has been with pureeing in oil and then freezing basil (like pesto without the garlic, cheese or nuts). I usually try to save it in globs in an icecube tray so I can just use a bit at a time without thawing the batch, it still tastes pretty fresh but doesn't have quite the same aroma. I'm guessing this would work for other delicate herbs too.
posted by cali at 3:57 PM on April 28, 2007

Grow your own is a nice option to supplement your collection, and this is a great time of year to get started. (I'm assuming your in the northern hemisphere.)

I've had very good luck with rosemary, sage, basil, and I have oregano and tarragon that come back every year like gangbusters. A little flat-leaf parsley plant turns into a monster heap that's more than you can probably eat on your own in a season. Giving away surplus at the end of the season is a great way to thank friends, butter up coworkers, etc.

Rosemary and basil that I've dried from my own garden are much more flavorful than storebought, maybe because I dry whole sheaves and branches and then break off the leaves later.

The only challenge with buying from ethnic grocery stores is that sometimes they sell in monster packets. Cardamom from the local south Asian market is great, and a total bargain, but their smallest bag is several year's supply for me. Could be another opportunity to give away stuff, or you could shop with a friend or two and split up the loot.
posted by gimonca at 5:17 PM on April 28, 2007

I'm lucky enough to live down the street from a Penzey's store, and I take full advantage. I do a lot of cooking in a hurry, as I'm a mom and I'm going back to school, so I'll recommend some blends:

1. Old World Seasoning: EXCELLENT on roasted red potatoes. Slice them, coat them in olive oil and lots of Old World, and roast in the oven for a while. So good. Also good on the outside of a roasted chicken, on roasted or grilled veggies (zucchini in particular is fabbo), and mixed into dredging flour for just about anything.

2. Ozark Seasoning: Another good one for roasted chicken and fish, nice on porkchops or patted onto a pork roast, and just the thing for a veggie omelet.

3. Adobo Seasoning: Easy enough to mix up on your own, but I love the convenience. I use this in and on just about everything... except dessert.

4. Garam Masala and Hot or Sweet Curry Powder: Throw 'em in or on anything you want to taste Indian, or mix them into a lovely dip.

5. Turkish Seasoning: Also very versatile. Can go on kebabs, of course (did I spell that right?), on meats of any kind... but is very, very good as a sandwich spread when mixed with yogurt, sour cream, or mayo.

Mmm!
posted by houseofdanie at 6:19 PM on April 28, 2007

Cumin actually works well pre-ground. As far as blends go, I like to have Tony Chachere's available.
posted by Mr. Gunn at 7:44 PM on April 28, 2007

I'm a gigantic fan of Penzey's Spanish Smoked Paprika. Positively addicting.

I also agree with you regrading dried basil, etc., however, one of the few exceptional dried blends that I love is Penzey's Sunny Paris, which has dried shallots, dill, tarragon, basil, chervil, and bay leaf. It's an awesome addition to eggs, creamcheese (for bagels and bread) and for making compound butters. It's even more addicting than the smoked paprika!
posted by melorama at 10:01 PM on April 28, 2007

Good vanilla is very good! Note that it isn't equivalent to "double strength" vanilla. Avoid the double-strength stuff; its extra strength just makes it taste more alcohol-y. If you do get the double-strength, be sure to use only half as much in recipes.

Two other notes:
The magazine Cook's Illustrated does tests of things like this issue (eg blind testing 10 brands of vanilla, from cheapo to super-fancy, in different recipes). If you're generally curious about this kind of thing, see if your library carries the magazine, or subscribe and get access to their searchable online archives.

Two related useful threads:
-dried v fresh herbs
-how to prepare spices in a way that gets the most out of them
posted by LobsterMitten at 10:35 PM on April 28, 2007

I'd echo most of the above re. buying whole spices where possible and avoiding dried herbs, and I think you've nailed the spices where quality really counts, so this post is more tips. Firstly, though, a note on vanilla pods - can't speak for elsewhere but they're hideously expensive here in the UK, so I get mine from the people who grow it in Mayotte, in the Indian Ocean (site in French). You can buy 5, 10 or 20 at a time, give some away as gifts, make vanilla sugar, etc etc and it works out so much cheaper. They also do 10% of your first purchase and 20% of each subsequent purchase in return for your email address.

On the subject of herbs, I've never tried drying my own but you can freeze many herbs (remove basil leaves from the stem) and I'm experimenting with rosemary, marjoram (oregano), thyme and mint at the moment. Alternatively, chop 'em up fine, mix in water and make herb ice cubes to drop into recipes, or make herb butters and freeze them to thaw and rub over a piece of chicken etc. to jazz it up.
posted by emtanner at 3:08 AM on April 29, 2007

Penzey's is great, but if you want an alternative, I love The Spice House. Lived in Evanston for a while and their spices are just wonderful, as are the people.
posted by orangemiles at 12:22 PM on April 30, 2007