Used bookstores in Israel

April 3, 2007 2:03 PM

I'll be travelling to Israel in several months, and have a couple of questions that I can't seem to find answers for: where to find good used bookstores, and whether it's possible to visit an Orthodox home for Shabbat dinner.

First, does anyone have suggestions of good used bookstores to visit? I can read Hebrew and am particularly interested in religious books, but any used bookstore information would be helpful. I will be in both Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, where I assume most bookstores would be, although any locations would be fine as I'll be travelling throughout the country over a couple of weeks. I found this, but it only has 4 bookstores listed for Israel, so I'm hoping for further suggestions.

Second, I have read, somewhere, that it is possible to arrange somehow to visit an Orthodox home for Shabbat dinner. Unfortunately I don't remember where I read that or any more details. Is that true, and do you know how I would go about doing that? If it matters, I am not Jewish, but would be very much interested in experiencing that if it is indeed possible.

Along the same lines, I would like to visit an Orthodox synagogue. Any suggestions relating to this would be very much appreciated.

Thank you very much for any help you can give.

posted by greenmagnet to travel & transportation (12 comments total)

greenmagnet: for bookstores, you should just wander around Mea Shearim for a while. There are some fantastic little hole in the wall bookshops with used religious books.

In terms of visiting synagogues, you'll have very different reactions depending on which sort of synagogue you go to. Ultra-orthodox communities will not be likely to be very welcoming, though they probably wouldn't turn you away. If you want a really interesting experience, visit the Great Aleppo Synagogue in Nahlaot. It's just off of Bezalel street, up the stairs leading to Rehov Shiloh, first street on your left. The Aleppo community is very old and preserves a Sephardi liturgical tradition unlike any Ashkenazi synagogue you're likely to have visited.

I would also recommend visiting the egalitarian orthodox community of Shira Hadasha in the German Colony. It's a bit difficult to find, the community meets at a gymnasium in a school off of Emek Refaim. Despite the grim environment, it's a really lovely minyan. It's populated by a who's who of religious Jerusalemite intellectual life and, although it's orthodox according to halakhah (men and women pray in separate sections), there is a real push to create a genuinely egalitarian atmosphere. Women take over all aspects of the service which are not, by law, limited to men. The liturgical melodies they use are wonderful. Most were composed by Shlomo Carlebach and reflect his intensive spirituality.

Finally, I'll be in Jerusalem through the end of June, so if you're around then, let me know. We could have Jerusalem's first MeFi meetup. Or I could just take you out for a shwarma. Email's in my profile.
posted by felix betachat at 3:13 PM on April 3, 2007

Heya, greenmagnet. Admittedly it has been about 10 years, but when I was in Jerusalem, all one had to do to get paired up with a shabbat dinner in an orthodox home was to linger around the Kotel (Western Wall) at around sunset on Fridays. There was a guy there who acted as matchmaker, as it were. He was good at picking out people who looked like they needed accomodating. He was definitely affiliated with some religious-types who wanted to convince me to eschew all my worldly pursuits in favor of a live in strict accordance with halakha, but it was no trouble to politely decline his advances...
posted by fingers_of_fire at 4:14 PM on April 3, 2007

Allenby street in Tel Aviv has a few used bookstores, but I was looking for English bookstores so YMMV.
posted by dhruva at 6:51 PM on April 3, 2007

You can also wander around the shuk on Friday morning, and it should be easy to get an invite to Shabbat dinner. A friend of mine staged an experiment to this effect. I forget what her line was (aren't I helpful?) but everyone who heard she didn't have a place to go for Shabbat invited her over.
Going to the Kotel also sounds like a viable plan.
posted by bassjump at 7:11 PM on April 3, 2007

In downtown Haifa, there used to be the best second-hand store, called Hamartef / "The basement", south of Ha'alutz & Devora/ Sirkin (map here). I've been visiting it since 1967, and every time I go to Israel, and I bought hundreds of books there. It used to be this cavenous, dark place heaped with thousands of used books in stacks to the high ceiling, with very narrow passageways and no organization or direction whatsoever.

I dedicated my book of poetry "Between Geography & Mescaline" to Arye, the owner of this store, who was still there three years ago...

Also, I will be in back Haifa between May 16 to the 25. If more than a few people will want to have a MeFi MeetUp there, I'm game.
posted by growabrain at 9:18 PM on April 3, 2007

felix: I won't be there by the time you leave, but thanks for the meetup invitation. Your suggestions sound right on.

growabrain: Wow, that sounds like my kind of bookstore. When you say "used to be," do you mean it's not there any more, or just that you haven't been lately?

And to those of you mentioning hanging out at the souk or the Kotel on Friday for an invitation to Shabbat dinner, will that work for me even though I'm non-Jewish? If so, that sounds great.

Thanks to all for your suggestions; they are very helpful.
posted by greenmagnet at 6:55 AM on April 4, 2007

yeah, greenmagnet - no one asked me to prove my religious affiliation when I was paired with a family for dinner in Jerusalem. You should be a little knowledgable about the customs of shabbat. I wasn't, and made the mistake of lighting a cigarette as we walked back to my host's apartment. Even though that was a no-no, he just explained that "we don't do that", or something, and that was that. But still, it's a good idea to be sensitive to your host's lifestyle.
posted by fingers_of_fire at 7:00 AM on April 4, 2007

Near the Kotel (Western "Wailing" Wall) there is a seminary called Aish Ha'Torah, or just Aish for short. They can certainly set you up with a Friday night dinner. But, as you're asking your way to their front door, you'll probably be invited over 50 times.

For the full experience, ask if you may arrive early for dinner and accompany the whole family to synagogue. Then you kill two birds with one stone as it were, and you get to see a synagogue hopping, instead of empty. Note: You'll have to walk there and back.

Don't know if you need any Shabbat houseguest reminders, but:

1. Don't bring food. They might not eat it and it might not go with the meal (i.e., milk chocolate is not permitted to be eaten with the most probably meat meal on Friday night). Same goes for drink. Flowers could be nice.

2. Don't turn on lights (at the house). The house will be set up for Shabbat so the *right* lights will be on the *right* ones off. Sometimes the bathroom light is kept off. Also, toilet paper may be pre-ripped for your convenience.

3. Wear nice (or nice-ish) clothes. The family will be dressed up a bit for the Sabbath. So a button down shirt would be good (for a man), or a long skirt / dress for a woman.

4. Ask questions, etc. Jews, especially religious ones, love answering questions.
posted by zpousman at 7:08 AM on April 4, 2007

Just so you know, the assumption may be that you are Jewish, unless your name is Chris or something. So you can either leave this assumption hanging or clear it up. I don't think it matters one way or another really, as long as you're interested, respectful, and friendly.

Oh, and a number 5: No cellphones. No camera (you'll have to remember your experience instead of photographing it).

And 6: Religious women and girls are not to come into physical contact with non-related men. So it's possible that you will not shake hands with the woman or female children. You can follow their lead on this. If a woman extends a hand, then feel free. If not, just skip it. This isn't that awkward (or, it doesn't have to be), but you should be warned.
posted by zpousman at 7:14 AM on April 4, 2007

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posted by growabrain at 8:26 PM on April 4, 2007

actually, one of my very favorite spots in jerusalem is a used book store. it's on rechov shatz (shatz street) -- a small street off of the much larger King George St, which runs right through the center of town. You'll easily be able to find the Mashbir - the department store in the center of town -- the book store I'm thinking of us about two blocks down from there, on King George, away from Yaffo (Jaffa) Street. They have an awesome assortment of books and records, and free nescafe. Just make sure to realize the store is mainly downstairs -- the first time i went i didnt know this and was kinda disapponted.

there's another used book store a few blocks away in the Midrachov (the pedestrian mall, also know as Ben Yehuda St), though it's actually on one of the side streets. It's called Sefer v'Sefel - book and mug -- because it also has a cafe. I don't know if it's still around. It was on the second floor through an alley entrance.

A third store (if it's still around) is on king george proper, across the street from the large hotels and right near the Great Synagogue.

if you'd like me to try to arrange a meal for you at some of my friend's for shabbat, hit me on email - in the profile.
posted by prophetsearcher at 10:44 PM on April 4, 2007

Thanks again to everyone. This is all extremely helpful information!
posted by greenmagnet at 7:45 AM on April 9, 2007