Japan during the Autumn Festival, and related questions

November 18, 2006 10:00 AM

I'm going to Japan next week. I've already reviewed the general "what should I do?" threads, and those have been great, but I have some specific requests and questions.

I'll be staying in Tokyo; Akihabara, specifically. That conveniently brings me to my first question: I'm a video game nut. Where can I find an arcade that will make me cry with joy? Any stores I should specifically be looking for?

Second: Autumn Festival! Recommendations for what to do?

Third: I'm vegetarian; I don't even eat fish. I'm not going to stress about this too much -- if I get some fish broth, whatever, not the end of the world -- but my friend who's been tells me it's about impossible to avoid meat entirely. Suggestions for doing this? Recommendations for good vegetarian sushi?

Fourth: I took two years of college Japanese about three years ago. Obviously I'm rusty but I've been brushing up recently and hopefully I'll be able to stammer through some of the basics. Any suggestions for not making an ass of myself when trying to speak in the language?

Thanks so much!

posted by brett to travel & transportation (20 comments total)

1) You're in Akiba. Start at the JR train station and fall in whatever open doors you find. (well, okay, not quite, but there are very good books that tackle exactly this subject.)

2) What specific days are you going to be there? Most of the autumn stuff has past, though there are still some decent leaf viewing near Tokyo.

3) You'll starve to death if you try to survive on vegetarian sushi. Soba and udon might be possible. There are occasionally decent tofu themes restaurants around but I've never been to one I'd go to twice. And they're not anywhere near vegan. There might be explicitly vegan places in Roppongi.

4) Make an ass of yourself with enthusiasm and a smile! No one will care. In fact, most people will be glad for any effort to try to speak the language, no mater how clumsy. Seriously.
posted by Ookseer at 10:14 AM on November 18, 2006

Ookseer: oh, I got confused about the festival thing. My host told me that the 23rd was a National Holiday, and invited me to enjoy the Japanese autumn, and I got the two mixed up in my head.

I'll be there from the 20th to the 26th, although my visit really starts on the 23rd -- I'll be busy with work stuff before that.
posted by brett at 10:29 AM on November 18, 2006

The 23rd is a pretty minor holiday (Labor day, but not like anyone sends cards). I don't have anything on my calendar for that week, but that doesn't mean there aren't interesting local events.

For a little more useful advice on Akihabara, you might browse through this guide on Kotaku.
posted by Ookseer at 10:47 AM on November 18, 2006

Any suggestions for not making an ass of myself when trying to speak in the language?

Consider picking up a book on "Japanese for Travellers" and focus on recognizing common signs (like "No Parking" or "Exit").
posted by SPrintF at 11:01 AM on November 18, 2006

Some restaurant types that would make a vegetarian meal not too hard to do in Japan: tempura, kushiage, okonomiyaki.

There are also plenty of western restaurants all around Tokyo that might make it easier on you. As a vegetarian who eats fish and visits Japan often, I can tell you that going to a sushi restaurant and getting a fish/seafood-free meal would be a challenge.
posted by shoos at 11:20 AM on November 18, 2006

I went to Japan in June with a vegan friend. She made it OK. She brought some of her own mixes (soups, chili, etc) and bought and carried with her a lot of dried fruit, nuts, etc from the US.

We also sought out vegetarian restaurants on occasion. The Peace Cafe in Kyoto was one, and in the Ginza district of Tokyo we went to a good Indian place that advertised its veggie-friendlyness. You're going to have a better shot at staying away from meat/fish if you don't eat Japanese food, as you know. Indian is a good standby. And she did do okonomiyaki with us once (a kind of omelet-pancake thing made to order) though she obviously specified what could be put in hers--I think she even got them to lay off the egg layer.

For games, we really wanted to go to the Namja Town game center for the Gyoza Stadium food court, but it was closed. I've also heard that there are very few English gams instructions there though.

We loved, loved, loved Japan.
posted by GaelFC at 11:51 AM on November 18, 2006

Oh, and my computer and technology geek husband about cried with joy at Yodobashi Camera. It's NOT just a camera store, it's eight floors of computers, video games, phones, cameras, toys, everything. Unreal.

Unfortunately, like at Toys R Us, they have this annoying recording that plays over and over and over on the PA, and it's still in my head...only instead of "Welcome to our world of toys!" it's "Welcome to Yodabashi Camera!" Over and over and over again. Still, it didn't stop us from spending the majority of our spending money there.
posted by GaelFC at 11:54 AM on November 18, 2006

1. There are plenty of arcades in Akihabara... I can't recall any that were particularly special, but the place is geek central, so I'm sure you'll find something that'll make you cry for joy. As for stores... you'll be in heaven. Trust me.

If you're looking to buy stuff, I'd suggest buying used. Consumer goods in Japan are priced fairly high, but the used market (especially for media, such as games and DVDs) is extremely healthy. Akihabara is pretty much the epicenter of said market. If you see a small store on the street that's stocked with games and DVDs, chances are they're used goods... even if they look to be in pristine condition.

2. In a city as large as Tokyo, there's a festival occurring somewhere nearby pretty much every weekend of the year. Could be big, could be small. Most of the time, you just stumble upon them. I don't know of anything specific that's occurring next week, but if you're staying in Akihabara, you'll be close to Ueno Park. There's always something going on there. Otherwise, when you see a shrine or temple, take a peek. They're standard festival locations.

3. Honestly, going vegetarian in Tokyo is going to be tough, especially if your Japanese isn't good enough to communicate your desires when buying/ordering food. And even then, it would be difficult. Since I'm not vegetarian (and I never had any vegetarian friends in Japan), I can't provide any specific advice.

4. Two years of Japanese three years ago is more than the average Tokyo tourist can claim... you'll be fine. English signs are plentiful, and most people speak at least a few words of English, so it's not like you'll be completely lost. As for making an ass out of yourself when speaking Japanese... it's expected of you. I can't tell you how many times I addressed a store clerk in perfect Japanese, only to have them look at me as if I were an alien (and proceed to answer in broken English). On the other hand, some people will lavish you with praise for simply knowing how to say "arigatou". Just smile and do your best, and get used to pointing and pantomiming when things get tough. Most people will understand.

Anyway, have fun! Tokyo's a great place this time of year... wish I was there.
posted by jal0021 at 11:55 AM on November 18, 2006

One more post: Ignore my link above, that was to a DIFFERENT branch of Yodobashi. You want to go to the flagship.
posted by GaelFC at 11:55 AM on November 18, 2006

On the vegetarian food question - will be hard, but not impossible. If you go to izakayas (Japanese-style pubs), they will have a wide range of dishes including vegetarian. Many have menus with photos and with some basic Japanese you should be fine. For a quick Japanese snack, buy umeboshi (pickled plum) onigiri (triangular-shaped rice 'balls' wrapped in seaweed) from any convenience store for about 150 Yen - cheap and delicious!
posted by londonboots at 12:22 PM on November 18, 2006

Oh, and on the language question, I lived in Tokyo for a year with only basic Japanese. You will be fine! In Tokyo you will need lots of 'gomen nasai' when you run into people and 'arigato gozaimasu' for everything else. In my experience, I always found people helpful and most spoke a pretty good level of English (certainly much better English than my Japanese!)
posted by londonboots at 12:30 PM on November 18, 2006

caveat: I left Tokyo in 2000 so some info may be dated...

hmmm . . . arcades . . . The East side of Shinjuku had some pretty decent ones for coverage. Check out the Taito one one or two streets from the station, toward the SE.

Namco Wonder Eggs out in Tamagawa was the shiznit back in the 90s, but prolly closed now. . . budget a day to hit Rainbow Town, lots of peeps and urban entertainment options there. Take the fly ferris wheel. A fun way to get to Rainbow town is the driverless train that leaves from Shinbashi station. I would wait 10+ minutes for the next train and be first in line to sit in the driver's seat up front. Beats any kiddie ride! There's a water taxi coming back from Rainbow Town that's a nice ride towards sunset.

Should be a Sega mega-arcade in Rainbow Town, also there was a Sega mega-arcade just south of Shinjuku station.

hmmm. . . Akihabara. I went to Akihabara at least monthly for years in the 90s, my favorite part of Tokyo. The Game-kan is must hit, especially the top-floor book section. Arcades kinda sucked there, alas. If you see a ramen store with a long line, make a note of it and come back to it. T-ZONE was cool, especially their DIY floor, the predecessor to newegg.

Ah, you're a veggie, will make things a lot more difficult. You'll need to say something like niku-nashi-de-kudasai, mebbe the Japanese have a world for vegetarian (checking. . . 'sai-shoku-shu-gi-sha') mebbe 'BEJITAHRIAN'; here's the sentence you'll need:

sumimasen, watashi-ga sai-shoku-shu-gi-sha nanode, niku-nashi-de dekimasu-ka?

^^^ politeness is VERY much appreciated in Japanese, ESPECIALLY from gaijin ^^^

xlation: excuse me, I am a vegetarian (so...), could you make that without meat?

That being said, I travelled with a total vegan in 2002 for a week. It was a colossal PITA for him, but he survived.

Other must-hit places:

Ginza: Itoya Stationery, Hakuhinkan toy store, Sony building.

Tokyu Hands in either Shibuya or Ikebukuro.

language:

First numbers. Not just ichi-ni-san but also what "nisensanbyakukyuujuu" [ni-sen-san-hyaku-kyuu-juu, 2000-300-90, ¥2390) means when you hear it run together like that.

Convenience store lingo:

1) If you hear 'atatamete ...', they're asking if you want it microwaved.

Enjoy: November is generally pretty good, getting nippy at night, but sunny & mild.
posted by Heywood Mogroot at 12:37 PM on November 18, 2006

oh yeah, you MUST MUST MUST hit okachimachi, the stores under the tracks are just megacool, the last surviving echo of the grunge commercial Tokyo. You can actually walk from N Akihabara to okachimachi. Keep walking N to hit Ueno, which is Mecca if you are motorcycle nut.
posted by Heywood Mogroot at 12:41 PM on November 18, 2006

The Sega mega-arcade in Rainbow Town is awesome, as is everything in that general vicinity. There's even a mini China town inside the building..
posted by matkline at 1:15 PM on November 18, 2006

I second the recommendation for Indian as good vegetarian. Try the Samrat chain for lunch at Y1000 (unfortunately you'll miss out on their butter chicken, which is delish)
posted by dydecker at 1:17 PM on November 18, 2006

In Akiba and a game nut? You're in for a treat! You have to go to Super Potato, an amazing 2nd hand store - I took some pics of it (here). An absolute do not miss.

3F Kitanayashi Bldg, 1-11-2 Soto-Kanda, Chiyoda-ku. Tel: [phone]. www.superpotato.com
posted by Sifter at 2:48 PM on November 18, 2006

I am a vegetarian, but was fine with fish broth; so: udon! It's all got some fish in the broth, but there's lots of dishes that don't have any chunks of fish and don't taste like fish, even for someone like me who doesn't like most vegetables either. I didn't have any real problems with sushi places either; I would eat kappa maki (cucumber rolls), tamago nigiri (little omelette things on rice), and futo maki (big rolls full of veggies) are another ubiquitous sushi item, which was enough to make a meal of.
posted by aubilenon at 3:40 PM on November 18, 2006

As I may have mentioned on previous Tokyo related questions, I'm an organizer for a conference in Tokyo. We recently updated our travel page. You might find some of that useful, especially the
Tokyo vegetarian guide.

Last year we had several vegetarians and a couple of vegans in our party, and with a bit of planning it wasn't too big of a deal.
posted by mock at 8:25 PM on November 18, 2006

Devi is a really good Indian restaurant - their spinach saag is to die for!

And don't stress about your language ability too much. Most people are pretty friendly to tourists who at least attempt to speak.
posted by gomichild at 10:50 PM on November 18, 2006

For vegetarian I'd look to any convenience store (konbini -- 7-11, AM/PM, Family Mart, etc). Among all the the wonders you'll find great simple salads in the refridgerated food section, along with a selection of fruit juice drinks.
posted by Rash at 1:52 PM on November 19, 2006