Would a train trip be romantic?

October 9, 2006 10:15 AM

Train Trip Filter: My boyfriend and I would like to take a romantic ~week long train trip, either in Canada or in the Northern USA. We've already done research on itinerary and costs, however, would we as 20-somethings feel out of place with what primarily seems to be a common retiree-age vacation?
posted by lizjohn to travel & transportation (26 comments total)

My 80-year-old parents just left for a week-long coast-to-coast Canadian train trip, just to provide you with a data point.

Given the sorry state of Amtrak in the US, I wouldn't take a train anywhere there except along the east coast. Once-reliable rail journeys in the UK also sound like a thing of the past.

Why restrict yourself to North America? Great train rides I've had were in Europe and Japan, where you'll find all ages among the passengers. I've also heard good things about train travel in Australia and South Africa (although those might only be for first-class travelers).
posted by Rash at 10:22 AM on October 9, 2006

I've taken the Amtrak between Minneapolis and Milwaukee several times and it's always been fine. Well, there was the time over the summer when our car's air conditioning went out and it started to smell like the (apparently unwashed) Amish people who took up 75% of the seats. Aside from that, great, and the train was in better shape than most I've been on in Europe.
posted by look busy at 10:46 AM on October 9, 2006

I did a similar thing (Chicago->San Francisco) when I was 20, and didn't feel out of place 95% of the time. When we ate dinner in the dining car -- that was awkward. If you're not a group of four, you have to share a table, and we definitely ate with old people, and it was uncomfortable for everyone. Other than that, I don't think looking out a train window, reading a book, playing cards, etc. has to be an age-related activity. I had a great time.
posted by one_bean at 10:47 AM on October 9, 2006

I would watch the Sex and the City Episode "the big journey" where she travels cross country by train and is miserable. It's in season five. Not that it should necessarily stop you, just the first thing I thought of when I read your question.
posted by njb at 11:01 AM on October 9, 2006

Rash - Mainly we want to stay in North America for costs. We're (poor) college students, and just the train portion of the trip is stretching our budget.

Thanks so far.
posted by lizjohn at 11:08 AM on October 9, 2006

Elderly people can be really interesting dining and conversation companions. They're people just like you, who have been on this planet half a century more than you have. If you feel out of place, try opening your mind more. If one night you get stuck with someone who can only talk about golf, the next night you might sit across from someone who used to hang out with Simone de Beauvoir and Jean-Paul Sartre.
posted by matildaben at 11:09 AM on October 9, 2006 [1 favorite has favorites]

Three things:

1. ViaRail over Amtrak any day.

2. I think you'll only be as out of place as you let yourself be. What a great opportunity to talk with people outside your won age group.

3. It's true that the demographic is more likely to skew older for the full coast to coast journey, but most of these trains stop all along the way, and a lot of the passengers will be coming along for shorter hops, and be of all different ages and backgrounds. Overall, the train population is probably more diverse than you think.

Have a lovely time!
posted by j-dawg at 11:19 AM on October 9, 2006

I took Via Rail across Canada in October 2001, and a third to a half of the other passengers were in their twenties or so.
posted by joannemerriam at 11:33 AM on October 9, 2006

When I was 26, I took a solo train trip across the U.S. I had a blast. I did not feel out of place at all. Just note that if you stay in a sleeping car, you cannot go sit with the others in coach. You can go to the observation car and the dining car. They sometimes show movies at night in the observation car. You should make reservations for dinner if you plan to dine in the dining car or you can eat at you seat or in your sleeping quarters. I stayed in coach the entire time. Even from D.C to Seattle. 3 days! It wasn't bad, but I had a sleeping bag, a pillow, 2 blow-up pillows, ear plugs and a sleeping mask. The seats recline some and there is a leg rest. I made quick friends on the second day with someone who was in a sleeping car and used their shower.
posted by nimsey lou at 11:34 AM on October 9, 2006

I've Amtrakked between New York and Boston several times. Passengers on Amtrak seem more open to conversation with strangers than on a regular commuter rail line (unless, of course, they're sleeping or in iPod mode; try the cafe car). If you want to find people to talk to, you will.
posted by danb at 11:34 AM on October 9, 2006

Would it be romantic? Absolutely!
A trip on Amtrak is just fine. Go for a sleeper car, and don't plan anything for right after the trip because passenger trains can easily get delayed.

I'd be more worried about screaming kids than old folks.
posted by drstein at 12:37 PM on October 9, 2006

I spent two months travelling around North America by train in 2001, and it was one of the best experiences of my life.

Will it be romantic? Well, they don't call it 'romance of the rails' for nothing, but your enjoyment of the trip will be affected by your ability to:

1. sleep soundly despite ambient noise and motion
2. accept that you will have somewhat limited privacy (even in a sleeper)
3. spend a week not merely in each other's constant company, but literally within 5 feet of each other at almost all times.

(#3 would drive me crazy with someone who was not comfortable with shared silences and quiet contemplation, but YMMV, of course.)

Will you feel out of place? What kind of people will be taking the train with you will vary considerably depending on the route you choose. But, in general: in coach you will see people of all ages, and from all walks of life, including significant numbers of 20-something backpackers. In sleepers the demographic is older (and wealthier), but as matildaben eloquently points out, how you feel about this is entirely up to you.

My general observation is that people travel by train for one of three reasons:
1. it is all they can afford
2. it is the best practical way to get where they are going (e.g. isolated parts of Canada in winter)
3. they believe in the cliche that the journey is at least as important as the destination.

I would say from personal experience that there is alot to be learned from all three groups, whether you want to engage with every person you meet or simply watch and listen from a distance as the world rolls by outside your window.

Have a great trip, and feel free to email me (in profile) if you want specific advice about routes or other tips.

And, as drstein says, whatever train you take, it will be late. Perhaps several hours. Just think of it as bonus time added on to your vacation.
posted by Urban Hermit at 1:49 PM on October 9, 2006

Unless you were going say from Saskatoon to Vancouver (prairies-mountain-semi desert -mountains) I'd suspect a train trip in Canada (forest/glimpse of lake/forest ...repeat for days on end) might get kind of tedious.
posted by Flashman at 2:27 PM on October 9, 2006

Two or three days in coach isn't very romantic. Sleeper class, on the other hand ... note, though, that a berth/room/roomette is much more expensive in Canada than it is on Amtrak, though by all accounts it's a much more pleasant experience.

Anecdotal evidence suggests that if taking Amtrak cross-country, and want the train to arrive reasonably on time, it's better to take trains running mostly on BNSF track (Empire Builder, Southwest Chief) than UP track (Sunset Limited, California Zephyr): BNSF has a better reputation for dispatching passenger trains than UP does (CSX's rep isn't very good either, it appears).
posted by mcwetboy at 2:34 PM on October 9, 2006

P.S. Brace yourself for screaming kids if taking an overnight train in coach. Every time I've done it, I've been woken up in the middle of the night by one or more of the little buggers.
posted by mcwetboy at 2:35 PM on October 9, 2006

a little off topic of the original question, but i'd really recommend a beautiful trip going from coast-to-coast in canada. the canadian railway system is great, and it's really beautiful. even the prairies look pretty breathtaking from a speedy railway, but they *can* get boring after about two days. but this is a beautiful trip that is really worth taking some day.

disclaimer: i haven't actually done this trip, but i know several people who have and never regretted it.
posted by alona at 2:54 PM on October 9, 2006

Another thing to know: if you have the money for a sleeper car, but are feeling ambivalent about it, I'd suggest purchasing coach and seeing if you can upgrade once on the train. It can be cheaper to do that. Worst-case scenario, you end up staying in coach. Best-case, you get a private sleeper at half the cost.
posted by one_bean at 4:11 PM on October 9, 2006

I spent over a month traveling on a train from LA to Atlanta by way of Vancouver, Toronto, New York, and several other major cities. I found a good mix of all ages on all the trains.

I'll also echo the others who have said take the VIA over Amtrak. The staff on VIA went above and beyond the call of duty. Unfortunately the Amtrak staff had an opposite approach to their jobs.
posted by vagabond at 5:35 PM on October 9, 2006

I echo the positions stated above: if you like a bit of challenge, it is romantic. If not, it ain't. I moved to Seattle from the midwest via the Empire Builder about 15 years ago and we were several days late, at the height of summer. At one point, the lead engine caught fire and everyone on the train had to debark into the -insert random high-prairie location here- early evening, to lounge on the high grass in the heat. Multiple cars had failed air conditioning and no openable windows. etc.

Since then, having a taste for this sort of tomfoolery, I can report that several trips up and down the west coast have not revealed similar issues. I find sleeping in coach pretty uncomfortable but a midnight (post-film) walk up to the observation car has always been fulfilling.

It's very different than a road trip or a plane; things are as much beyond your control as on a plane, but it takes days and days. If you can deal with indifferent service and technology breakdowns for days at a time, yes, it's romantic. In my book, without those things, there's nothing to think of as romantic. Your significant other may differ.
posted by mwhybark at 5:49 PM on October 9, 2006

I enjoyed taking the Via trains from Toronto to Montreal, as well as the Toronto-Chicago train, and the Toronto-NYC train, though I found there to more delays on the Amtrak portions of the last two trips. I did these trips by myself, and I enjoy travelling alone, so YMMV.

I always met a good mix of people and enjoyed talking to them. The train is always much more relaxing than flying.
posted by glip at 6:57 PM on October 9, 2006

I've always wanted to go from Montreal to Quebec City to Toronto by rail; those three cities preserve the grand old railroad hotels of the 19th century, which are a nice place to have brunch even if you don't stay in them.
posted by ikkyu2 at 7:47 PM on October 9, 2006

I did the Indian-Pacific first class as a 25 year old, and I was the youngest by about 30yrs. It was a little odd, but they were all really nice, interesting, well travelled types. I only really spent any time with them during meals. There's a description of Bill Bryson's experiences in "Down Under" (or "In a sunburnt country")

As to romantic or not, well, with the right company, I would say yes. Getting your own cabin would obviously be preferable, but greatly increases the price. It also depends on your general disposition. If you are happy with your own (+SO's) company, and can keep yourself busy for days at a time whilst somebody else worries about whether it's a left or right turn, then you'll enjoy it. If you've never done any train travel before, then I'd suggest a trial. I had vague ideas of driving instead of training until I did a four hour road trip and discovered how much I hated driving long distances.

Another potentially cheaper, if more complicated, option would be to train hop. ie. doing shortish trips, getting off to sleep and sight see.
posted by kjs4 at 8:17 PM on October 9, 2006

A few comments on the above: portions of Amtrak trains on CSX trackage *cough* Maple Leaf *cough* tend to be really delayed, especially in the summer, when track repair is going on.

Also, there is no more train from Toronto to Chicago (there is a gap between Port Huron and Sarnia).
posted by oaf at 8:34 PM on October 9, 2006

Regardless of age the Starlight Express (Seattle-Los Angeles and return) is a blast. Get a compartment (sleeper) and have fun - you'll see view of coast you otherwise will never see. Check with Alaska Airlines - at one time they had a deal for one of the travel legs along with the Amtrack ticket.
posted by KneeDeep at 9:43 PM on October 9, 2006

My husband and I flew from the UK and went from Toronto to Vancouver to Newfoundland and back, 30 years ago. A great trip! 17 nights on trains, 2 on ferries. We stayed with friends/relatives twice, and took a night's break in a motel twice.

We upgraded to a sleeper only a couple of times -- the ordinary bench seats were quite tolerable. We didn't use sleeping bags, just jackets with hoods. We didn't buy food on the train, but bought cheaper food at stops along the way -- many stops were long enough to take a walk and find a supermarket. (Our budget was pretty low -- what was/is "mock chicken"?)

Travelling on the ordinary seats we met ordinary people mostly doing shorter trips. Very interesting!
posted by Idcoytco at 2:16 AM on October 10, 2006

I love trains and go on them frequently, but I somehow doubt they are all that romantic, given the above mentioned factors. Plus, Amtrak is really late. REALLLLLLLLLY late. I've heard they've been days late on the Zephyr line alone, which has discouraged me from taking a long-distance train trip so far.

If you want to do anything else besides sit on the train and watch scenery, I wouldn't pick a long-distance train trip for it. Or if I did, I'd plan a few days extra to be taken off from work due to likely train lateness. But if time isn't a factor for you, then eh, go ahead.
posted by jenfullmoon at 1:35 PM on October 11, 2006