Concrete Recommendation For Re Paving Driveway.

June 5, 2006 4:06 PM

I am thinking of having my driveway re paved. I understand the are various grades of concrete. I would appreciate any comments about the concrete grade that should be used. I want this job to last! I would hate to receive a low-ball quote and the have my driveway paved with inferior concrete. Thanks in advance.
posted by Mckoan1 to shopping (5 comments total)

If you are talking about asphalt concrete, talk with your local supplier. Normally the nearby quarry. There is usually a DOT standard that would work well and readily available. Pay equal attention to the base you place it on. It should be compacted crushed aggregate several inches thick. Not river rock. It needs to be angular to hold together. Lastly, be sure it drains well. Water is the number-one enemy of pavements.

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posted by mrleec at 4:46 PM on June 5, 2006

Another factor is keeping air bubbles out of it when its poured. Those guys in wading boots stomping through it with the floats? They will leave air pockets that will fill with water and freeze, cracking the cement. Vibrators are used to get the bubbles out. Also, what kind of rebar are you putting in?

My father was in this business and he liked to add crumpled up coat hangers to the mix.
posted by StickyCarpet at 5:10 PM on June 5, 2006

make sure you have dry days after it's poured. rain can really fuck it up.
posted by brandz at 6:40 PM on June 5, 2006

I have been told in some areas paving with asphalt vs. standard (?) cocreate can make a difference in what you pay in property tax. Don't know if that matters in this case or not, or if it appies to your area, just a data point.
posted by edgeways at 8:49 PM on June 5, 2006

A typical driveway would use 6-sack concrete (approximately 4000 psi) with a maximum 4-inch slump. The slab should be a minimum of 5 inches thick and 6 inches is better. The slab should be reinforced with either #4 rebar on 18-inch centers or else 6-inch welded wire mesh.

This means 6 sacks of concrete (94 pounds each) per cubic yard of concrete. The 4-inch slump is a rough specification of water content. It means that a 12-inch inverted cone of wet concrete will slump 4 inches. Too much water in the mix makes a weaker concrete. The mixing plant does not actually perform a slump test -- they just use a table to determine the amount of water to add to the mix at the plant. #4 reinforcing bars are 1/2 inch in diameter. Wire mesh has 6-inch squares made of 1/8 inch wire and comes in rolls 5 feet wide. If you want to spend a little more money, you could call for 7-sack (5000 psi) concrete.

Immediately after the concrete is finished, it should be coated with a curing compound. The curing compound prevents too rapid evaporation. Concrete cures by a chemical reaction that combines the cement with water. If the concrete dries out too quickly, the result is reduced strength. If the weather is very hot, the concrete should be watered with a sprinkler continuously for about a week. About a month later apply a concrete sealer to prevent penetration of road salt and stains.
posted by JackFlash at 2:18 AM on June 6, 2006