Help me plan my family vacation in ... Nova Scotia or PEI (Which?)

March 9, 2023 1:57 PM

I'm solo parenting for the first time for this year's summer trip with my kids (10 and 14). Spouse will be working. Trying to decide between Nova Scotia's north coast or Prince Edward Island. And then figure out a good strategic base to plant ourselves so we can do a few reasonably short daytrips. Current mood: feeling overwhelmed by the travel guides.

In August, we'll be driving north from our home in Portland, Maine. I've done the Bay of Fundy in New Brunswick before, so am more interested in either the "north?" coast of Nova Scotia or PEI. My gut sense tells me that Nova Scotia would be far more dramatic and interesting but maybe more difficult in some way (jaw-droppingly gorgeous hikes! more driving and cold water!) while PEI would be more boring (flat, not as much history/culture) but perhaps more chill and easy for a solo parent (warm beach days! flat bike rides!). Either could be good if I'm even right about the difference.

Which would you recommend? And what are your favorite hikes, cool places to explore, beachcombing, cute towns, and other sights/experiences? Anything that would appeal to teens/tweens)? Bonus points for places/experiences to encounter Acadian and/or Scotch-related culture. Otherwise: No interest in Halifax and go light on the lighthouses (we live in Maine 😉). Thanks!

posted by Text TK to Travel & Transportation around Nova Scotia (7 answers total)

So by north Nova Scotia, you mean Cape Breton? It's lovely, but it's pretty sparse there. The mix of cultures is incredible: you'll get Acadian French mixed in with Scots Gaelic in the same village. Road signs are a mix of three languages. We stayed in Cheticamp, and it has a mix of down home (Acadian cooking) and highly weird things. Maybe not so much for kids, though. Halifax (or Dartmouth) is a surprisingly good base as you can get to most of the fun bits. Plus, they have Donair ...

PEI is delightful. If one of your kids is or is likely to become an Anne fan, they'll want to have been to PEI. The whole island is easily managed in daytrips, and during the summer has a very laid-back sunny vacation feel. There are a whole bunch of little towns that have places to stay (we stayed in the cabins at North Rustico). I think PEI might be more fun for kids because it's *all* beachcombing / cute towns / etc
posted by scruss at 3:08 PM on March 9, 2023 [2 favorites]

By north, did you mean the Northumberland shore (Pictou, Tatamagouche, Antigonish)? The water is warmer there and there are some lovely beaches. I always went to Rushtons beach as a kid - not as busy as Brule and pretty. Pictou has Scottish heritage stuff (like the Hector replica, with a heritage centre) and is a cute little town. I always liked poking through the historical sites in that area, like the Balmoral Grist Mill (Tatamagouche). I'm super fond of Antigonish as well, and that area will give you a good dose of Gaelic culture!

That said, you can't go wrong with a PEI beach vacation and it is set up extremely well for tourism. You will have a lovely trip either way!
posted by bighappyhairydog at 3:50 PM on March 9, 2023 [1 favorite]

If you're planning on seeing Tatamagouche, I can recommend the Train Station Inn as a place that (when I was there, a long time ago) was a fun and interesting place to stay.
posted by jessamyn at 4:48 PM on March 9, 2023 [1 favorite]

Cape Breton is GORGEOUS - old-growth forests straight out of a fairytale! Beaches of giant rocks to scramble! Watching orcas and sea otters from the bench outside Pema Chodron’s retreat center! Free internet in the community center at Meat Cove! Dogwoods an inch tall, wild strawberries everywhere, birch trees, the many purples of lupines!

My mom and I went when I was 19, over the end of July/start of August (remember Canada Day travel when you plan). It’s one of the most magical places I’ve ever been. Might be better for a trip once your kiddo has their driver’s license, though.

If you do go to PEI, consider stopping into Ship To Shore in Darnley, a damn fine restaurant started by a dear friend, John Bil. John loved oysters and PEI wildly.
posted by rrrrrrrrrt at 6:39 PM on March 9, 2023 [2 favorites]

My family did a big summer trip when I was a kid that included Bay of Fundy, Nova Scotia and PEI. I remember PEI the best! The red sands and stones on the beach, Anne of Green Gables house (I got paper dolls), trying mussels for the first time . . . . I think I was 9 at the time. I loved it and have great memories.
posted by carrioncomfort at 5:14 AM on March 10, 2023 [1 favorite]

I live and work in one of those places and lived and worked in the other! If your kids like beaches then PEI for sure. I’d recommend the Greenwich part of PEINP which is a bit farther from things but basically an empty beach. Also a great floating boardwalk and, if the Piping Plover haven’t closed the beach point, the walk around the peninsula is great. Cavendish and Brackely-Dalvay have had a lot of hurricane damage so not all beach access points and amenities are open this summer. But both are huge and empty and have really shallow water which is super fun as a kid. But watch out for the rip currents and parking. Biking there is great along the park roads but the non-park roads are a bit harry. Green Gables obviously if there is interest. The hiking is pretty limited. Richard’s and Blue Mussel are great if they’re open for the summer. I’d say you would need like 4 days there before you got absolutely bored? Also take the ferry off the island and you’re right by Tatamagosh and Antigonish.

If you want Cape Breton, the biking at the park is advanced (steep and easy n roads) and the hikes are like the non-carriage trails at Acadia. I’d actually say, Acadia and Baxter are more similar to CBHNP than PEINP. That said, there is hiking up the coast near Inverness and a good beach there. The drive across the park is stunning. There’s a great cafe on both sides (Margarite’s in Chéticamp and Salty Rose’s and Periwinkle in Ingonish). L’abri is another great food place in Chéticamp. There is a ton of live music in the area including the Doryman and I’m sure stuff in Judique at the Celtic music centre but there can be cover. The Rankin’s cafe The Red Shoe also has live music and it starts a little earlier in the day. I’ll also recommend the Chimney Corner beach in the area but the parking lot get super crowded on nice days.

I’m happy to add other recommendations if you want to DM me including reviews of various hikes in the parks. I do recommend camping in the parks if it works for you and they have Otentiks if you want something more ‘glamming’.
posted by hydrobatidae at 3:54 PM on March 10, 2023 [1 favorite]

We went to both this past summer, just before the hurricane.

We stayed in French River in PEI and were in Windsor, N.S. We’re two guys in our 40s, so take this for what it’s worth (it might help you decide in the other direction!) but I would give PEI the slight edge. We also loved Nova Scotia, too, so it’s close.

Probably a top memory from PEI is going out on a boat to dig clams near a tiny island. I also enjoyed driving around, especially on the red earth roads, looking at all the fields and taking photos. We ate twice at Ship to Shore and really liked it! (It was a trip to see it mentioned here.)

Nova Scotia was cool too. This won’t help you much to know, but we basically just poked around the small towns. I bought some art. We had some good meals. If you’re near Windsor, Bedard Bakery is really good! We’re spoiled for pastry here in Montreal but Bedard held its own.

Wherever you end up, I hope you enjoy. I bet you will.
posted by fruitslinger at 6:52 PM on March 10, 2023