How Did you Defeat Garlic Mustard?
June 5, 2022 4:41 AM Subscribe
If you’ve managed to control or even beat back an invasion of garlic mustard, what worked for you? This spring my parents had a sudden, extensive growth of garlic mustard in the woodland around their house and they’re worried it'll choke out all the native plants. They’ve attempted to uproot as many of the flowering stalks as possible, but they haven’t gotten all of them and can’t easily pull the patches of low-growing rosettes. They are especially interested in tactics not involving an herbicide, though that could be considered.
The neighborhood is in a mature hardwood forest in the suburbs of Minneapolis, and for the most part residents have tried to retain the woodland instead of having lawns. Stuff spreads easily, and in this case there are neighbors who probably can’t or won’t do anything about the garlic mustard growing on adjacent land. Is this likely a lost cause? Are there shade-loving native plants my parents could introduce that might outcompete the garlic mustard over time?
As far as this spring goes, it seems most of the stalks are just finishing flowering and maybe haven't released seeds yet. Is it worth trying to at least get rid of the rest of those as a short-term step?
The neighborhood is in a mature hardwood forest in the suburbs of Minneapolis, and for the most part residents have tried to retain the woodland instead of having lawns. Stuff spreads easily, and in this case there are neighbors who probably can’t or won’t do anything about the garlic mustard growing on adjacent land. Is this likely a lost cause? Are there shade-loving native plants my parents could introduce that might outcompete the garlic mustard over time?
As far as this spring goes, it seems most of the stalks are just finishing flowering and maybe haven't released seeds yet. Is it worth trying to at least get rid of the rest of those as a short-term step?
Best answer: Be relentless about pulling up the plants, which is easiest to do right after it rains. Next year, start earlier than June so that new native plants have a chance to take root. Garlic mustard is one of the easier invasives to control. Just keep at it.
posted by Elsie at 4:53 AM on June 5, 2022 [3 favorites]
posted by Elsie at 4:53 AM on June 5, 2022 [3 favorites]
Sometimes a vinegar spray kills back invasive annoyances without chemicals? I'd try something like that.
posted by tiny frying pan at 5:14 AM on June 5, 2022
posted by tiny frying pan at 5:14 AM on June 5, 2022
If there are any foraging groups in the area they might be willing to help - garlic mustard is edible and it’s nice to know you’re getting it from somewhere without pesticides.
posted by brilliantine at 5:58 AM on June 5, 2022 [3 favorites]
posted by brilliantine at 5:58 AM on June 5, 2022 [3 favorites]
Best answer: All the mustards have robust, fleshy roots with enough nutrient storage capacity that they will easily laugh off one season's vinegar or salt burns to the leaves. Short of proper systemic poisons, hauling them out of the ground is the only thing that will actually get their attention.
As others have said, doing this when the ground is damp is less of a pain. A proper plant uprooting tool that you can use without bending over helps a fair bit as well. Get the Fiskars one, don't waste your money on the cheap knockoffs that will pull up fifteen weeds and then snap.
Hand pulling thousands of weeds is a daunting prospect but it's surprising how fast it goes once you get into a rhythm and keep at it. And as RobinofFrocksley says, it will need doing for several years until all the remaining viable seed has had a chance to do its thing.
posted by flabdablet at 6:01 AM on June 5, 2022 [5 favorites]
As others have said, doing this when the ground is damp is less of a pain. A proper plant uprooting tool that you can use without bending over helps a fair bit as well. Get the Fiskars one, don't waste your money on the cheap knockoffs that will pull up fifteen weeds and then snap.
Hand pulling thousands of weeds is a daunting prospect but it's surprising how fast it goes once you get into a rhythm and keep at it. And as RobinofFrocksley says, it will need doing for several years until all the remaining viable seed has had a chance to do its thing.
posted by flabdablet at 6:01 AM on June 5, 2022 [5 favorites]
Seconding the foraging groups - hell, your parents could start foraging it themselves. That stuff is DELICIOUS - I made a fantastic pesto just by cramming a food processor with garlic mustard leaves, then adding a handful of grated parmesan and whatever nuts I had in the house. We're about to hit the heights of recipes-that-use-pesto season so you could whip through that patch pretty quickly just by hosting a cookout or something.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 6:11 AM on June 5, 2022 [3 favorites]
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 6:11 AM on June 5, 2022 [3 favorites]
Best answer: Seconding all the advice above to just pull & bag it, and soon, before it sets seed.
My continuing adventure ridding my upstate NY acre of invasives began with poison ivy (not, I know, an invasive but certainly a plant that I don't want near the areas my body occupies) and quickly included garlic mustard and now multiflora rose. I can offer this assurance: pulling it up works. I am in year three and this spring we filled three large bags with plants as opposed to twelve bags in year one.
A few things we learned along the way:
1) garlic mustard comes up earlier than almost anything else in the spring, which makes it very easy to spot. If they can dedicate an afternoon or two at that stage next Spring, either by themselves or hiring someone, great progress will be made.
2) Work from the property line inwards. Even the slightest jostling of a stalk that has seeds will fling the seeds yards away, so if you can create a bullwark along the property line (or even a few yards beyond it), you'll prevent the spread in the future.
3) The life cycle of the plant is useful to know; the very low rosettes are first year plants. They don't grow and set seed until the second year. So pulling those is extra good at disrupting the cycle.
4) Plant a cover crop after you've cleared an area. Your local university ag extension will likely have a few suggestions. Here we used native grasses and shrubs.
posted by minervous at 7:24 AM on June 5, 2022 [2 favorites]
My continuing adventure ridding my upstate NY acre of invasives began with poison ivy (not, I know, an invasive but certainly a plant that I don't want near the areas my body occupies) and quickly included garlic mustard and now multiflora rose. I can offer this assurance: pulling it up works. I am in year three and this spring we filled three large bags with plants as opposed to twelve bags in year one.
A few things we learned along the way:
1) garlic mustard comes up earlier than almost anything else in the spring, which makes it very easy to spot. If they can dedicate an afternoon or two at that stage next Spring, either by themselves or hiring someone, great progress will be made.
2) Work from the property line inwards. Even the slightest jostling of a stalk that has seeds will fling the seeds yards away, so if you can create a bullwark along the property line (or even a few yards beyond it), you'll prevent the spread in the future.
3) The life cycle of the plant is useful to know; the very low rosettes are first year plants. They don't grow and set seed until the second year. So pulling those is extra good at disrupting the cycle.
4) Plant a cover crop after you've cleared an area. Your local university ag extension will likely have a few suggestions. Here we used native grasses and shrubs.
posted by minervous at 7:24 AM on June 5, 2022 [2 favorites]
I believe garlic mustard is one of those plants where remediation efforts can be counterproductive
If there is a flowering stalk, you have to be very careful when pulling. The stalks often sprout in waves, some will be green and some will be yellow/dried. You can go in with good intentions to pull the green ones, but accidentally pull the yellow ones too. The yellow ones, when pulled, often drop 30-40 seeds each.
I worked at a summer camp that would have weekly remediation efforts for 10 years. And because they were kids or adults without full training, (doing it as service for hours, not because they actually cared) the mustard problem got worse and worse.
I think that if one educated person chose a backyard sized area, and checked it every day for the pre-dried sprouds and uprooted all the roots each time without dropping new seeds... You could see a reduction.
In other words, I think the real answer your question is "not today". Maybe someday we'll have a pesticide or nanobots or hungry-for-garlic-mustard worms that can counter it, but not today.
posted by bbqturtle at 7:24 AM on June 5, 2022
If there is a flowering stalk, you have to be very careful when pulling. The stalks often sprout in waves, some will be green and some will be yellow/dried. You can go in with good intentions to pull the green ones, but accidentally pull the yellow ones too. The yellow ones, when pulled, often drop 30-40 seeds each.
I worked at a summer camp that would have weekly remediation efforts for 10 years. And because they were kids or adults without full training, (doing it as service for hours, not because they actually cared) the mustard problem got worse and worse.
I think that if one educated person chose a backyard sized area, and checked it every day for the pre-dried sprouds and uprooted all the roots each time without dropping new seeds... You could see a reduction.
In other words, I think the real answer your question is "not today". Maybe someday we'll have a pesticide or nanobots or hungry-for-garlic-mustard worms that can counter it, but not today.
posted by bbqturtle at 7:24 AM on June 5, 2022
Start pulling them up now, now as in immediately today. If they're allowed to set any seed this year, you'll just add another year onto what is a years long project.
But fear not, it is actually doable, you just have to work a few years in a row.
This year: Go out there and pull up all the flowering/flowered plants you can find. Dispose of them in a bag immediately, then hauled away in yard waste refuse or other offsite treatment. if you don't pull them up cleanly, don't worry about it, they were done anyways. but be wary of spreading seeds if they're too far gone from flowering.
Next year: Start earlier. In Illinois, Garlic Mustard just begins flowering around Mother's Day, typically. As soon as you see a flower go on another full rampage, pulling up everything you find. No need to worry about seeds.
3rd year: Start looking and pulling early, again. But by then you should be seeing fewer of them, if you succeeded in preventing them from setting seed in prior years.
4th year: you may actually be mildly disappointed, if you really pulled up almost everything that was there for two years running. There will be little left for you to do. But the price of liberty is eternal vigilance, so just keep monitoring the site in early spring.
posted by Cold Lurkey at 7:38 AM on June 5, 2022
But fear not, it is actually doable, you just have to work a few years in a row.
This year: Go out there and pull up all the flowering/flowered plants you can find. Dispose of them in a bag immediately, then hauled away in yard waste refuse or other offsite treatment. if you don't pull them up cleanly, don't worry about it, they were done anyways. but be wary of spreading seeds if they're too far gone from flowering.
Next year: Start earlier. In Illinois, Garlic Mustard just begins flowering around Mother's Day, typically. As soon as you see a flower go on another full rampage, pulling up everything you find. No need to worry about seeds.
3rd year: Start looking and pulling early, again. But by then you should be seeing fewer of them, if you succeeded in preventing them from setting seed in prior years.
4th year: you may actually be mildly disappointed, if you really pulled up almost everything that was there for two years running. There will be little left for you to do. But the price of liberty is eternal vigilance, so just keep monitoring the site in early spring.
posted by Cold Lurkey at 7:38 AM on June 5, 2022
If mustards or other weeds with a similar growth habit are still at the rosette stage and have not yet thrown up a flower stalk when you uproot them, there's no real need to bag and remove them; if fully uprooted and then left upside down on the ground then they'll die and decompose before going to seed, and a bit of green mulch is always good for topsoil. As a bonus, they'll put up much less of a fight against your Fiskars tool if you catch them early than if you wait until they've got their heads well up.
Bag and remove is best practice for hardy, stemmy invasives like blackberry that are adapted to striking where the stems touch the ground. Those can survive long enough after uprooting to throw out new aerial roots especially if the weather's a bit rainy, but I have yet to see an upside down uprooted rosette-pattern weed manage to do so.
Anything that's already seeding by the time you uproot it is probably going to have dumped a load of them before you even get it in the bag, though reducing that number by not leaving seeding stems behind is still worthwhile.
posted by flabdablet at 9:19 AM on June 5, 2022
Bag and remove is best practice for hardy, stemmy invasives like blackberry that are adapted to striking where the stems touch the ground. Those can survive long enough after uprooting to throw out new aerial roots especially if the weather's a bit rainy, but I have yet to see an upside down uprooted rosette-pattern weed manage to do so.
Anything that's already seeding by the time you uproot it is probably going to have dumped a load of them before you even get it in the bag, though reducing that number by not leaving seeding stems behind is still worthwhile.
posted by flabdablet at 9:19 AM on June 5, 2022
As far as this spring goes, it seems most of the stalks are just finishing flowering and maybe haven't released seeds yet. Is it worth trying to at least get rid of the rest of those as a short-term step?
It is too late to mess with the tall stalks this year unless finishing flowering means still in full flower. If you do pull any of them, bag meticulously as mentioned.
Garlic mustard is biennial so you can pull the short first year rosettes any time and not need to worry about bagging. They would be my primary focus until April 2023. The leaves look slightly different than the flowering second years so google image search will help you learn to identify the rosettes.
Take the time to get all the root of each individual pull over trying to cover a large area. Find where the stem meets the ground, grasp firmly but pull gently.
There's some recent research that the allopathic nature of GM actually causes it to kill itself off after 5 or 10 years. If the population is mature and there are no desirable species nearby, the research suggests waiting it out may be more effective than pulling.
Above all have a plan to nurture desirable species in the area you work on pulling. Bare ground is an invitation for the GM or other invasives to return. Any areas with some existing native species should be a top priority. Clear and defend, season after season.
Consider a few new native plantings each year. Plant and defend, plant and defend. Repeat the successes and don't sweat the right plant that landed in the wrong spot to thrive. Quality over quantity.
Thank you for doing this! All y'all!
posted by Press Butt.on to Check at 10:44 AM on June 5, 2022 [1 favorite]
It is too late to mess with the tall stalks this year unless finishing flowering means still in full flower. If you do pull any of them, bag meticulously as mentioned.
Garlic mustard is biennial so you can pull the short first year rosettes any time and not need to worry about bagging. They would be my primary focus until April 2023. The leaves look slightly different than the flowering second years so google image search will help you learn to identify the rosettes.
Take the time to get all the root of each individual pull over trying to cover a large area. Find where the stem meets the ground, grasp firmly but pull gently.
There's some recent research that the allopathic nature of GM actually causes it to kill itself off after 5 or 10 years. If the population is mature and there are no desirable species nearby, the research suggests waiting it out may be more effective than pulling.
Above all have a plan to nurture desirable species in the area you work on pulling. Bare ground is an invitation for the GM or other invasives to return. Any areas with some existing native species should be a top priority. Clear and defend, season after season.
Consider a few new native plantings each year. Plant and defend, plant and defend. Repeat the successes and don't sweat the right plant that landed in the wrong spot to thrive. Quality over quantity.
Thank you for doing this! All y'all!
posted by Press Butt.on to Check at 10:44 AM on June 5, 2022 [1 favorite]
Apologies for not reading your question carefully and repeating some things you already knew! I got excited
I think tldr is save your collective efforts for next early spring if maximum efficiency is goal. TY!
posted by Press Butt.on to Check at 10:53 AM on June 5, 2022
I think tldr is save your collective efforts for next early spring if maximum efficiency is goal. TY!
posted by Press Butt.on to Check at 10:53 AM on June 5, 2022
Have you talked to your soil and water conservation district or ag extension? They may have programs to help control garlic mustard and be able to have someone look at the property and suggest natives to plant instead. I was an intern for a program that controlled garlic mustard on private property free for landowners in a designated watershed, and we would hand pull if requested.
Garlic mustard may also be on a county or state noxious weeds list, which could give your parents some leverage to get the neighbors to control it on their property. Your parents will almost certainly continue to have garlic mustard as long as the neighbors do, unfortunately.
posted by momus_window at 11:59 AM on June 5, 2022 [1 favorite]
Garlic mustard may also be on a county or state noxious weeds list, which could give your parents some leverage to get the neighbors to control it on their property. Your parents will almost certainly continue to have garlic mustard as long as the neighbors do, unfortunately.
posted by momus_window at 11:59 AM on June 5, 2022 [1 favorite]
that Fiskars thing looks supercool; might get one just to have a variety and for smaller jobbies. There is also this and, my personal fave, this. My friends and I fight over that last one when we all get together to pull the various monster weeds that afflict all of us. Clamp and pull slowly so you don't snap off the stem. There is NoThInG more satisfying than pulling out a long taproot of something. Definitely talk to Extension; that's where I found out about all the various weed wrenches. They may have some new garlic mustard science and best management practices to share.
posted by Don Pepino at 12:31 PM on June 5, 2022 [1 favorite]
posted by Don Pepino at 12:31 PM on June 5, 2022 [1 favorite]
Extension is great.
It is too late to mess with the tall stalks this year unless finishing flowering means still in full flower.
This doesn’t make sense to me; if you don’t take out the flowered stems they will definitely drop all their seeds. You can cut them into a bag to catch seeds now.
posted by clew at 2:34 PM on June 5, 2022
It is too late to mess with the tall stalks this year unless finishing flowering means still in full flower.
This doesn’t make sense to me; if you don’t take out the flowered stems they will definitely drop all their seeds. You can cut them into a bag to catch seeds now.
posted by clew at 2:34 PM on June 5, 2022
Response by poster: The seed pods are all still green and appear to be unopened. Most of the stalks are several days past flowering and some still have a few blossoms.
My parents say it was a late spring this year, so a lot of stuff didn’t really start growing until the end of April.
posted by theory at 6:47 PM on June 5, 2022
My parents say it was a late spring this year, so a lot of stuff didn’t really start growing until the end of April.
posted by theory at 6:47 PM on June 5, 2022
If you've already got visible seed pods then you'll definitely want to bag and remove after uprooting, because those pods will continue to ripen even when the plant they're on is uprooted and dying.
And if you can get started before any of this season's seeds mature, you'll need to do less work in total.
posted by flabdablet at 8:32 PM on June 5, 2022
And if you can get started before any of this season's seeds mature, you'll need to do less work in total.
posted by flabdablet at 8:32 PM on June 5, 2022
Also, walking around with a paper bag and clippers developing a seed-catching strategy should be less tiring than going after all the roots, though it will seriously reduce the root-rooting unfollowing years. Picking the flowers whenever you see ten in spring does help.
posted by clew at 9:41 AM on June 6, 2022
posted by clew at 9:41 AM on June 6, 2022
Just came in to say good luck - I pulled maybe 4-5 large garden waste bags full of garlic mustard just after snow melted this year and before the flowers came. Definitely easier with damp ground. But feel like i hardly made a dent- the plant really seemed to come in fast and hard this year - and a lot of other properties in the neighborhood have the same issue. I’m resigned to it likely being a decade long fight (with separate ongoing fights against Myrtle Spurge and Poison Hemlock ongoing as well…)
posted by inflatablekiwi at 2:25 PM on June 6, 2022
posted by inflatablekiwi at 2:25 PM on June 6, 2022
Best answer: The seed pods are all still green and appear to be unopened. Most of the stalks are several days past flowering and some still have a few blossoms.
If they think they can collect and dispose of unopened seed pods easily-ish, it certainly wouldn't hurt to do so. But, yeah, I would consider those seeds gone myself and start planning for next year.
This doesn’t make sense to me; if you don’t take out the flowered stems they will definitely drop all their seeds.
My presupposition is seeds are going to get away. There's an existing seed bank, and the plants I don't see, and the neighbors plants and, yeah, the plants I just don't have the spoons to deal with. So at some point decisions have to be made about what to attack and when.
Many of those decisions are informed by the fact GM is biennial: every upright plant you'll ever see is less than 30 months old. I alluded to this earlier but I think I could have been clearer how this is central to management tactics. There's a couple of conclusions we can draw from it: 1) every Alliaria petiolata seed that germinates will be dead in two years with or without human intervention; 2) no matter how green it looks, an Alliaria petiolata that has spent a week in flower has in essence already died happy.
So if we are choosing which targets to pull is it best to pick the ones which definitely will not set seed (i.e. rosettes or those just-starting-to-flower) or the ones which eh maybe will/maybe won't? I'll choose the sure thing because pulling garlic mustard is hard work but bagging garlic mustard is much harder work.
If there's only a half-dozen plants the difference between dropping a plant roots up and putting it in a bag may seem trivial. But opening the bag and finding the hole adds up over hundreds of plants, especially once they've grown stalky. The bags get heavy quickly too, taking more effort to move them as you work and risking them breaking open. Then you have to figure out what to do with the bags so they don't just turn into giant GM seed bombs. So ideally we can just eliminate the bags altogether by pulling them at the right time.
The best time is the early spring of their second year, after they have shot up their flower stalks but before the flowers have fully formed. The first year rosettes are harder to see and the bottom of their stems are harder to find. I will certainly murder one if I happen to notice it and have a moment to get my hands dirty, but I don't plan work days around hunting them. The sweet spot for that is the second spring when they make themselves green, tall and visible while most the natives are still asleep.
Garlic mustard seeds can remain viable in soil for 5-7 years so this is a long term project. It will feel hopeless. It is not. Pull the ones you can get this year. Next year make sure to get them before they flower. If you are vigilant they should be gone by 2027-2029.
I agree with this (hang in there!) but I would think of it more as a three year plan, the first of which your parents have already completed successfully by identifying the problem and jumping on it. The second year starts now by observing what grows this summer and fall in those spots where they worked and where are the existing natives that could use more space opened up next year. Maybe think also about which adjacent properties they should try to set up a buffer against, balancing infestation levels with ease of access. The second year should culminate with a big pull or three in late April/early May 2023, where they will be targeting 2021's seedlings.
Pick a weekend to invite a few friends over to make the work go quicker. Anybody can pull GM and a little food and music goes a long way to making it a party. Repeat in April/May 2024 to get those seeds that got away this year. Hopefully by then they will have significantly disrupted the biennial cycle.
Finally, I wanted to mention again having a plan to nurture existing desirable plants and adding to them as necessary. This is other big weapon we have besides pulling and is sometimes overlooked. If a GM seed never germinates because it have no space, it does not matter how many years it remains viable. So, yes, crowding them out is an achievable tactic. I don't have any specific species to suggest but absolutely they are on the right track including that in their plans.
posted by Press Butt.on to Check at 6:43 AM on June 7, 2022
If they think they can collect and dispose of unopened seed pods easily-ish, it certainly wouldn't hurt to do so. But, yeah, I would consider those seeds gone myself and start planning for next year.
This doesn’t make sense to me; if you don’t take out the flowered stems they will definitely drop all their seeds.
My presupposition is seeds are going to get away. There's an existing seed bank, and the plants I don't see, and the neighbors plants and, yeah, the plants I just don't have the spoons to deal with. So at some point decisions have to be made about what to attack and when.
Many of those decisions are informed by the fact GM is biennial: every upright plant you'll ever see is less than 30 months old. I alluded to this earlier but I think I could have been clearer how this is central to management tactics. There's a couple of conclusions we can draw from it: 1) every Alliaria petiolata seed that germinates will be dead in two years with or without human intervention; 2) no matter how green it looks, an Alliaria petiolata that has spent a week in flower has in essence already died happy.
So if we are choosing which targets to pull is it best to pick the ones which definitely will not set seed (i.e. rosettes or those just-starting-to-flower) or the ones which eh maybe will/maybe won't? I'll choose the sure thing because pulling garlic mustard is hard work but bagging garlic mustard is much harder work.
If there's only a half-dozen plants the difference between dropping a plant roots up and putting it in a bag may seem trivial. But opening the bag and finding the hole adds up over hundreds of plants, especially once they've grown stalky. The bags get heavy quickly too, taking more effort to move them as you work and risking them breaking open. Then you have to figure out what to do with the bags so they don't just turn into giant GM seed bombs. So ideally we can just eliminate the bags altogether by pulling them at the right time.
The best time is the early spring of their second year, after they have shot up their flower stalks but before the flowers have fully formed. The first year rosettes are harder to see and the bottom of their stems are harder to find. I will certainly murder one if I happen to notice it and have a moment to get my hands dirty, but I don't plan work days around hunting them. The sweet spot for that is the second spring when they make themselves green, tall and visible while most the natives are still asleep.
Garlic mustard seeds can remain viable in soil for 5-7 years so this is a long term project. It will feel hopeless. It is not. Pull the ones you can get this year. Next year make sure to get them before they flower. If you are vigilant they should be gone by 2027-2029.
I agree with this (hang in there!) but I would think of it more as a three year plan, the first of which your parents have already completed successfully by identifying the problem and jumping on it. The second year starts now by observing what grows this summer and fall in those spots where they worked and where are the existing natives that could use more space opened up next year. Maybe think also about which adjacent properties they should try to set up a buffer against, balancing infestation levels with ease of access. The second year should culminate with a big pull or three in late April/early May 2023, where they will be targeting 2021's seedlings.
Pick a weekend to invite a few friends over to make the work go quicker. Anybody can pull GM and a little food and music goes a long way to making it a party. Repeat in April/May 2024 to get those seeds that got away this year. Hopefully by then they will have significantly disrupted the biennial cycle.
Finally, I wanted to mention again having a plan to nurture existing desirable plants and adding to them as necessary. This is other big weapon we have besides pulling and is sometimes overlooked. If a GM seed never germinates because it have no space, it does not matter how many years it remains viable. So, yes, crowding them out is an achievable tactic. I don't have any specific species to suggest but absolutely they are on the right track including that in their plans.
posted by Press Butt.on to Check at 6:43 AM on June 7, 2022
This thread is closed to new comments.
Garlic mustard seeds can remain viable in soil for 5-7 years so this is a long term project. It will feel hopeless. It is not. Pull the ones you can get this year. Next year make sure to get them before they flower. If you are vigilant they should be gone by 2027-2029.
posted by RobinofFrocksley at 4:51 AM on June 5, 2022 [9 favorites]