How do I take care of annoying, persistent dandruff/flaky scalp?
May 21, 2021 11:06 AM   Subscribe

I have dandruff and it sucks. I tried Selsun Blue. Didn't work. Tried the Neutrogena coal tar shampoo. Also did nothing. Then did some Googling and learned that my actual problem might be dry scalp. Bought a fancy scalp scrub and a nice moisturizer. They felt amazing and my scalp was less itchy afterwards but still prolifically flaky. Help??? Don't want to keep buying random products, do want to get rid of dandruff.
posted by insteadofapricots to Health & Fitness (42 answers total) 7 users marked this as a favorite
 
Do you wash your hair with really hot water? That might be exacerbating it.
posted by RobotVoodooPower at 11:10 AM on May 21, 2021 [2 favorites]


See a dermatologist and get a prescription strength anti-fungal.
posted by GuyZero at 11:12 AM on May 21, 2021 [8 favorites]


I have had good luck with pure Aloe Vera gel. It leaves no residue and absorbs completely, and is fragrance-free. You can shampoo as you normally do, towel dry, and apply about a teaspoon to your roots and scalp.
Try rubbing it in daily for ten days, and I believe you will see results. I did.
posted by halfbuckaroo at 11:14 AM on May 21, 2021 [1 favorite]


The only dandruff shampoo that does anything is Nizoral, in my experience. But you should see a derm.
posted by Countess Sandwich at 11:18 AM on May 21, 2021 [4 favorites]


I had a prescription-strength shampoo for awhile. Eventually, I was able to switch to the OTC version, Nizoral, which I use as needed.
posted by verity kindle at 11:19 AM on May 21, 2021


In my experience the thing that most contributes to making my scalp dry and flakey is-- washing my hair too often with soapy shampoos. Once I cut back, my hair and scalp started taking care of themselves as they evolved to do naturally.

I'll also second seeing a dermatologist. I see a dermatological PA whenever I have skin problems, and he puts me right every time. Whether it's an anti-biotic course (itraconazole) for really severe outbreaks, or a new recommendation for DHS zinc shampoo to alternate with my occasional ketoconazole shampoo treatments, a corticosteroid cream, or Clobetasol (not on your face! it will burn the thinner there skin permanently) for the worst spots-- a professional's input has made all the difference.
posted by seasparrow at 11:21 AM on May 21, 2021 [3 favorites]


I have seborrheic dermatitis and suffered from flakiness for years. A couple of years ago my dermatologist prescribed a ketoconazole shampoo which helped... a little. Then I tried some Head and Shoulders shampoo, and the flakes pretty much went away. I, my glasses, my darker shirts, and my computer keyboard are much happier.

I have a different dermatologist now, and he says my dermatitis is a notoriously fickle thing to tame, and the solution seems to be different fro everyone. The ketoconazole prescription was a perfectly valid thing to use, but it simply didn't work for me. I also had fair results with tea tree shampoos, though notably not with Trader Joe's brand.

My advice would be to keep trying different products until you (hopefully) find one that works.
posted by lhauser at 11:22 AM on May 21, 2021 [4 favorites]


Because you asked, and because it's cheap, I've had luck with a homemade 1:3 part dilution of apple-cider vinegar hair-rinse that I use at the end of every shower
posted by Dmenet at 11:37 AM on May 21, 2021 [3 favorites]


I used spa magic shampoo with some Dead Sea salt formula for about one bottle long and my otherwise lifelong dandruff was gone. Ymmv.
posted by Namlit at 11:43 AM on May 21, 2021


Seconding seasparrow - what really mostly dealt with my dandruff and flaky scalp was cutting back to only shampooing twice a week during the pandemic year. It only really works for me because my pandemic haircut is at home DIY buzzcut short - when I still had a "style" of normal US male length it was unbearably greasy feeling, although my spouse said it didn't look like it. (On the other other hand I'm totally willing to believe that itchiness and flakiness are down because the hair is too short to capture and accumulate any flakes. Maybe?)

On the other hand, my pillowcase suffers now, but at least it isn't on my shoulders.
posted by Kyol at 11:51 AM on May 21, 2021 [1 favorite]


See a derm, but in the meantime: Nizoral. If you have a Canadian connection, the 2% is OTC there. You can get the 1% OTC here, but need a prescription for 2%.

It's true, dermatitis is very idiosyncratic. It's surprisingly poorly understood for such a widespread and cosmetically-undesirable affliction.
posted by praemunire at 12:01 PM on May 21, 2021 [3 favorites]


Four years, Head and Shoulders was the only thing that worked for me.

I think that my skin responds well to pyrithione zinc.

Now I’ve been using the Free and Clear dandruff shampoo and it’s just as good for the dandruff and even better for my hair texture/feel.

Unfortunately this can be really a trial and error thing.
posted by Salamandrous at 12:01 PM on May 21, 2021 [2 favorites]


Because you asked, and because it's cheap, I've had luck with a homemade 1:3 part dilution of apple-cider vinegar hair-rinse that I use at the end of every shower

Seconding this, for the same reason.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 12:28 PM on May 21, 2021


I'm one of those people that had also tried every kind of anti-dandruff shampoo out there and had little success. My scalp is also very dry.

I've got thick curly hair, the thing that finally worked for me was just getting super nice salon quality shampoo. I've had almost no issues after starting to use Love shampoo and conditioner from Davines. It's a little on the expensive side but this stuff has been incredible for me.
posted by sewellcm at 12:37 PM on May 21, 2021


Note it can also be psoriasis and this is one of the reasons to see a derm.
posted by DarlingBri at 12:43 PM on May 21, 2021 [6 favorites]


I had a roommate who did hair professionally, and she told me never to use over-the-counter dandruff shampoo. She said the way it works is it just glues all your flakes in place, and doesn't actually solve anything. Try something that addresses the problem.

A quick skim of wikipedia has me thinking it might be a yeast or a fungus. In which case, I'd be listening to the people suggesting aloe (antibacterial/antifungal, good for skin), vinegar-with-mother (populates with bacteria you'd rather have), salt (bet it's antibacterial/antifungal), tea tree (antibacterial/antifungal).
posted by aniola at 12:47 PM on May 21, 2021 [1 favorite]


Head and Shoulders Clinical Strength, paired with a scalp brush to really get the shampoo on my scalp, helped me control flakes that I'd struggled with for years. When I started out with this regimen, I did it 2-3 times a week, but now it's under control and I just use the shampoo about once every month.
posted by topophilia at 12:47 PM on May 21, 2021 [1 favorite]


I am one of the people for whom nothing worked, until Head & Shoulders. You can often find travel-size bottles at the drugstore.
posted by BlahLaLa at 12:48 PM on May 21, 2021 [1 favorite]


You might try something that is SLS free. I found that helped reduce my flakiness almost completely. Trader Joe's shampoos are good, and reasonably priced.
posted by annsunny at 12:53 PM on May 21, 2021 [4 favorites]


The Head and Shoulders in the blue bottle, not the normal stuff, usually works for me. It has selenium sulfide instead of the pyrithione zinc, which had little to no effect for me.
posted by wierdo at 1:04 PM on May 21, 2021 [1 favorite]


She said the way it works is it just glues all your flakes in place, and doesn't actually solve anything. Try something that addresses the problem.

Nizoral is literally an anti-fungal (ketoconazole). So are selenium sulfide (Head & Shoulders extra strength, Selsun) and pyrithione zinc (H&S normal). Neutrogena products (coal tar and salicylic acid) are actually effectively exfoliants (the opposite of "gluing"). Hydrocortisone products are anti-inflammatory.

I'm not saying one shouldn't try the "folk remedies"--they're generally inexpensive, not harmful, and if they work, great! But it's downright weird to recommend avoiding products that contain the actual recognized drugs that have the same functions in favor of home remedies.
posted by praemunire at 1:18 PM on May 21, 2021 [33 favorites]


+1 for trying another active ingredient like Head and Shoulders, washing less often, and seeing a derm if it doesn’t clear up.
posted by Crystalinne at 1:26 PM on May 21, 2021


I would caution against washing your hair less often. I, optimistically, tried No Poo and less poo various times over the last ten years on my dandruffy hair with the same results - increasingly greasy hair that ended up with painful scabs. I have reluctantly come to the conclusion that I need to wash my scalp every day to avoid a painful itchy situation. Also, make sure you leave the shampoo on your scalp long enough. You're not so much washing your hair as leaving medication on your scalp. So do it first, really massage it in, and leave it there for the duration of your shower.

A lot of this is trial and error. I would try medically-supported ingredients for a couple of weeks each. If you don't have success, try them in regular rotation: I need to rotate four different shampoos to have relief. I'd start with 2% ketoconazole shampoo, a prescription anti-fungal. Also in my rotation is 2% Pyrithione Zinc (OTC), extra strength coal tar shampoo (OTC), and 3% salicylic acid doctored by me with 5% tea tree oil and 1% lavender oil (as per I believe previous posts on the Green and by PubMed studies - e.g. here) (OTC). You can also get a topical steroid (and possibly a topical immunosuppressant) from a dermatologist that will help calm things down if you're having a flare up.

A few notes. I think that thinking of dandruff as "dry skin" might be counterproductive: adding moisture (like conditioner) to your scalp is likely to feed the yeast on your scalp with fatty acids or certain oils, which is going to exacerbate the problem (see here, for instance). Frankly, I'd also be pretty skeptical of home remedies. There are actual medical studies on this problem, and products that treat the known cause. To me, it makes sense to focus on those rather than rummaging around your kitchen for potential remedies of unknown efficacy or safety.
posted by ClaireBear at 2:10 PM on May 21, 2021 [6 favorites]


I've done work in this industy. There are a lot of potential reasons for flakes.

1. Your scalp could be dry. This is often caused by over-scrubbing or over-washing. Wash less.
2. Your scalp could have some kind of bacterial thing. This can be helped by the three chemicals mentioned above. Nizoral, selenium sulfide, and pyrithione zinc. These chemicals can also make #1 worse though.
3. Your scalp could have a buildup of dead skin, caused by not washing enough. This often happens with restrictive hairstyles. For this, the exfoliants work best - gets rid of any buildup.
4. Your scalp could be reacting to hard water. Hard water can irritate your scalp. This usually happens when you over wash as well, but it's kind of different. For this, a water softener works best.

When I had flakes, I tried head and shoulders. It made my flakes much worse! That's because I had #1, and the medication dried it out further. What I've found works best for me is a less powerful shampoo. I like a combination shampoo and conditioner bar, used every day or two. I found one at Target I like, but they all should work about the same. They are sulfate free, but they don't feel all gunky like a lot of other sulfate free products feel like.
posted by bbqturtle at 2:41 PM on May 21, 2021 [5 favorites]


Yes to trying different anti-fungal shampoos and you'll just have to try them all since you don't know exactly what kind of fungus is causing your specific dandruff.

I have also found shampoo with neem oil as a top ingredient very effective.
posted by brookeb at 2:51 PM on May 21, 2021


I have found switching to a lower pH shampoo and conditioner has helped eliminate my dry scalp flakes and stop the itching. This is why the vinegar rinse thing suggested above works. Your scalp is about pH 5.5 and most shampoos and conditioners are well above this, which for some people causes the skin to freak out.

I use the Herbal Essences bio:renew argan oil shampoo and conditioner, but I believe the coconut milk one of the same range also has low pH.
posted by BeeJiddy at 3:40 PM on May 21, 2021


Sebex worked for me when those other products did not
posted by bq at 4:07 PM on May 21, 2021


YMMV but the only thing that works for my dandruffy husband is this coal tar stuff from Philip B. It ain't cheap but you can shop around a bit. Worked like a dream.
posted by nkknkk at 4:17 PM on May 21, 2021


2% ketoconazole shampoo from the dermatologist.
posted by dianeF at 4:17 PM on May 21, 2021


I've tried everything. Clobetasol worked for years, but last year just stopped being effective. Currently, Coal Tar shampoo MWF and Jason Tea Tree Shampoo the other 4 days is keeping it managable. Skipping washing my hair makes it way worse.
posted by COD at 5:34 PM on May 21, 2021


Definitely go to a dermatologist, they can tell you exactly what to do, and possibly prescribe something.
posted by radioamy at 6:20 PM on May 21, 2021


Just to provide yet another data point to show that this is complicated and you should do what works for you. Dandruff shampoos like Head and Shoulders and Selson Blue make my scalp So Much Worse, like my scalp is so itchy that it's going to flake off all at once. Just awful. Neutragena coal tar didn't really do anything, and OTC Nizoral helped but wasn't great. I've found that shampoos that treat the scalp instead of the hair helps, and thinking that you're not so much washing your hair but doing a scalp treatment is the right way to think about it. I'm currently having some luck with good tea tree shampoos (check to see how high in the ingredients tea tree oil is, or buy your own and add it to a good scalp hydrating formula shampoo), and showering and treating my scalp Every Damn Day. Personally, if I skip a day that makes it worse, and skipping two days is horridly flaky. I'm currently using the tea tree hydrating shampoo from OGX, which smells almost like a Girl Scout Thin Mint, for good or ill, but it's as good as anything else I've tried when I use it daily.
posted by indexy at 8:15 PM on May 21, 2021


I'd like to know what a full fortnight of moisturiser use does, and we can file the results under "why don't you moisturise?"
posted by k3ninho at 10:00 PM on May 21, 2021


Also make sure you're washing whatever shampoo you use really well out of your hair. My lifelong issue with dandruff on long thick hair cleared up dramatically when I moved to a lower floor with corresponding better water pressure. (Also occasional treatments with ciclopirox olamine shampoo left on for 15 minutes as per my slightly woo dermatologist, and very moisturising shampoo otherwise.)
posted by I claim sanctuary at 12:52 AM on May 22, 2021


I have had this problem. My solution was very different from everyone else's here. It turned out to be a response to food (in my case, peppers/capsicum). If I don't have capsicum, the itching subsides and the flakes go away in fairly short order after that.

I can't say I figured this out in any structured way . Last winter capsicum was $29.99/kilo in NZ so we stopped eating it, and I stopped itching and having dandruff. Then I got capsicum in my Indian takeaway and I began to itch and flake within 24 hours, which was when I put two and two together. (I looooooove capsicum so this is really disappointing.)

If it is a food that is causing your problem, it's probably going to be something other than capsicum. But it's worth looking at your diet and seeing if this problem tends to flare when you've been eating a particular food/spice/what have you.
posted by rednikki at 6:00 AM on May 22, 2021


So I also have dry scalp, and I tried numerous shampoos to no avail. Then one day while getting one of my rare professional haircuts, my hair stylist mentioned that I need to work the shampoo thoroughly into my hair and scalp, let it sit for at least 30 seconds, and then use a scalp brush to comb it out.

So basically I ordered something like this, gave Head and Shoulders another try, and worked on my technique. Haven't had the problem since.
posted by Alex404 at 6:00 AM on May 22, 2021


I used to have an oily scalp and dry curly hair. Now I have a dry scalp and dry curly hair. Until I get myself to a hairstylist, I've found that a (diluted) rinse of apple cider vinegar (with mother) every wash day eases my itch.

At NY Mag's The Strategist, where I've gotten some of my more effective personal care recommendations, there are posts drawing on the dandruff-fighting advice of derms here (January 2018) and here (November 2018).

Both posts second remedies suggested by MeFites, but a commenter on the 1/18 Strat post said that Davines Natural Tech Purifying Shampoo was the only thing that worked. Anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial dandelion extract is the secret sauce, according to the Davines website.

The 11/18 post also suggests DHS Zinc Shampoo ("with 2 percent pyrithione zinc, which works to calm irritated and inflamed skin") and Vernon Francois Scalp Nourishment Braids and Locs Spray ("For thick, curly hair, and especially for people with braids or dreadlocks, this non-greasy, nourishing blend of Ubuntu Mafura oil, ... plus jojoba, sweet almond, crambe, argan, rose-hip seed, and castor oils, is a great way to soothe, moisturize, and protect an irritated scalp").
posted by virago at 2:46 PM on May 22, 2021


Hair and the care thereof apparently is something I can't stop thinking about.

So I had to post this recommendation: As I Am Dry and Itchy Scalp Care Olive + Tea Tree Shampoo.

The company also makes an Olive Oil + Tea Tree conditioner, a leave-in conditioner, a co-wash and an oil treatment. The recommendation is from The Strategist's UK site but As I Am is based in the Chicago area. The products are available in the US, the UK and Canada.

I'm honestly pretty interested in this shampoo! Every flaky-scalp remedy I've tried has left my poor hair feeling like straw. But the Olive Oil + Tea Tree shampoo -- which has salicylic acid and piroctone olamine along with 1% pyrithione zinc (the same active ingredient as Head and Shoulders) -- apparently is much less harsh than other drugstore anti-dandruff shampoos. As I Am is a Black-owned brand specifically for people with curly and coily hair, and reviewers of Olive Oil + Tea Tree consistently state that it leaves their hair feeling as healthy as their scalp does.

Anyway, here's what The Strat UK had to say about Olive Oil + Tea Tree Shampoo, from a 2020 roundup of the best anti-dandruff shampoos (Olive Oil + Tea Tree was ("best overall"):
Two of our experts, trichologist Ebuni Ajiduah and Winnie Awa, founder of hair-care e-tailer Antidote Street, suggested this one. “It has piroctone olamine, which is a great anti-dandruff ingredient,” said Ajiduah, adding that aside from the anti-dandruff scalp qualities, it’s also a good gentle shampoo for Afro hair. “It’s specifically formulated to get rid of dandruff, but it will also help with product buildup on the scalp,” explained Awa. “It has peppermint oil and caprylic acid, which have anti-fungal, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory properties to target those problem areas,” she added. Those anti-fungal qualities will help clear up dandruff, which is a yeast, while the anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory properties will help with the greasy roots and sore scalp that often go hand in hand. Ajiduah also said that despite its potent dandruff-fighting abilities, it was gentle enough for everyday use, so if you are prone to a flaky scalp, you could use this as your regular shampoo with no ill effects. The whole range is also certified cruelty-free.
posted by virago at 4:10 PM on May 22, 2021


This is definitely YMMV territory. It's worth seeing a derm, although the treatments suggested to me by a derm just made the problem worse.

Most anti-dandruff shampoos made my flaky scalp significantly worse. Neutrogena's TSal was the best for me. I use Nizoral more during warmer weather.

What really made the biggest difference was to start using Cerave Moisturizer on my scalp in the shower. I work it into my scalp like a shampoo. And the rinse it out. I also use the dilute apple cider vinegar rinse at the end of every shower.

Then once or twice a week, I also use shampoo.

Yes, Cerave moisturizer is meant for your skin and in no way meant for your hair. But I was desperate, and it works great for the dry skin on the rest of my body. And actually does not seem to make my hair more greasy - the opposite in fact.

So yeah, that's what's been working for me. But a lot of this will likely just be trial and error.
posted by litera scripta manet at 6:46 PM on May 22, 2021 [2 favorites]


I don't want to be argumentative, especially as this is so YMMV, but I wanted to caution against adding oil to your scalp if you have dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis - especially high-oleic oils like olive oil (as per virago's comment). See this article:

Barrier abrogation leads directly to the recognizable symptoms of D/SD—itching, flaking, and redness. We report an individual susceptibility to dandruff, likely due to innate differences in the skin barrier's ability to prevent fatty acid penetration. Previously, we showed that epidermal abnormalities present in D/SD sufferers occur throughout the scalp, even with no apparent flaking. Oleic, a key fatty acid component of human sebum, is shown to induce a dandruff-like desquamation that is ultrastructurally identical to dandruff. Interestingly, the same dose of oleic acid does not induce the lesion in subjects who do not get dandruff. The presence of abnormal stratum corneum across the scalp of D/SD sufferers, along with the inability of oleic acid to induce flaking, are further indications of an innate susceptibility in the skin of D/SD sufferers. (bold, mine)

As I mentioned above, I think that anti-fungal agents (most of the mainstream dandruff shampoos on the market, along with tea tree at 5%), chemical exfoliants (salicylic acid), etc. are good things to test and are likely to improve things, although it might be trial and error which work best. I can also understand the desire for moisture, but for most suffers of dandruff/seborrheic dermatitis, most moisturizers are going to contain free fatty acids and similar things that make the condition worse. See this. I'm not saying definitely don't test an olive oil based product, but I'd expect a high likelihood of a flare up (this article has more):

... a potential concern arises when considering a possible Malassezia virulence factor regulated by its metabolic lipid pathways. In vivo, Malassezia digests sebum into saturated and unsaturated fatty acids.1 Only the saturated molecules are essential while the unsaturated fatty acids are a by-product.1 Organic oils (such as olive oil) contain both saturated and unsaturated lipids and may be counterproductive to treat a condition whose etiology is linked to Malassezia. In fact, olive oil is a standard in vitro culture media for Malassezia.7 Saturated fatty acids likely encourage Malassezia overgrowth and excess unsaturated fatty acids may induce inflammation and scaling. As nondigestible oil, mineral oil may provide a triglyceride-free alternative to organic oils. Based on the evidence currently available, it may be prudent to avoid organic oils, especially olive oil, when treating seborrheic dermatitis or other inflammatory skin diseases triggered by colonizing microflora. (bold, mine)

So if I were in your shoes and desperate to use some oil on my scalp or something, I'd consider mineral oil. Or I might search around for scalp moisturizers using the term "fungal acne safe": while fungal acne is a bit of a different thing, it shares a similar etiology with respect to lipid-supported skin-based yeasts, and products advertised for that condition should avoid ingredients that feed the problematic yeasts on your skin. (If you're interested in a primer on the subject, you could go further wrong than this or this - in short: The inflammatory reaction against the yeast Malassezia is considered basic in the etiology of the seborrheic dermatitis. And in case you're wondering about why I keep mentioning seborrheic dermatitis when your post was about dandruff, see this: Seborrheic Dermatitis (SD) and dandruff are of a continuous spectrum of the same disease that affects the seborrheic areas of the body).
posted by ClaireBear at 8:59 PM on May 22, 2021 [5 favorites]


Nthing that this is a process of trial and error, and not everyone will come to the same solution. But FWIW, the one thing that helps me keep my dandruff/seborrheic dermatitis under control (I have no idea if it's the one or the other, but I don't really care because the end result is the same): NEVER GO TO BED WITH DAMP HAIR. I shower in the evening. If I just towel off my hair and go to bed, letting my hair air-dry while I sleep, my dandruff gets worse. If I take time to thoroughly dry my scalp with a blow-dryer, dandruff goes away.
posted by gakiko at 9:19 AM on May 23, 2021 [1 favorite]


... I wanted to caution against adding oil to your scalp if you have dandruff/seborrheic dermatitis -- especially high-oleic oils like olive oil (as per virago's comment). ....

In light of this information from ClaireBear (as well as the rest of her comment), I would like to amend my recommendation of As I Am Olive Oil + Tea Tree products: They are OK for people who have dry scalp but not for people who have dandruff/seborrheic dermatitis.

Chris Challis, of the website Dandruff Deconstructed, has had dandruff/seborrheic dermatitis for over 20 years and is careful to distinguish among dandruff/seborrheic dermatitis, scalp psoriasis, dry scalp, and product buildup.

And, yes, see a derm. Because relatively inexpensive and accessible products like unrefined shea butter -- which, like olive oil, is high in oleic acid -- can help relieve a dry scalp but will cause a flare-up of seborrheic dermatitis.
posted by virago at 5:08 PM on May 23, 2021 [3 favorites]


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