Let's table this issue

December 2, 2020 9:08 PM

Woodworkers of MeFi: what's the best way to finish a door with painted details so that it can be used as a dining table? Specific issues inside.

OK, so I've made a table out of cast aluminum legs and a midcentury men's room door from an architectural salvage place. It's really cool, but it has some specific issues (chipping of the veneer in places, screw holes all the way through in places where the push plates were attached originally, a vent/grille in the bottom third of the door that I'm just going to use as a built-in tray, with a 1/4 inch wooden lip around its edge). Most importantly, I want to preserve its character (ie. don't want to stain it or strip it), and don't want to wreck its key feature: the word MEN painted in midcentury lettering at the top. But I want this to last and not be destroyed by spills and drinks, etc.

I have an idea of what could be done to preserve it but have just cobbled this idea together through internet research, so am looking for confirmation of this method or some revision suggestions. Right now, am thinking I'll fill the chips and holes with a BluFixx clear resin pen to even out the surface (I don't mind seeing the chips, but don't want them to chip further and want the surface to be flat), and then just wipe the whole thing down really well and brush lacquer it with a semi-matte lacquer. I thought of doing a full 2-part resin pour on it, but am not sure it would self-level around the grille--and am also worried that it would get so shiny that it would bounce a lot of light around, being placed near big windows, and it would be hard to see the lettering.

Finally, I wasn't actually planning on sanding this before lacquering, because I don't want to ruin the letters. Will this be OK? The door currently has its original finish on it.

posted by Miss T.Horn to Home & Garden (7 answers total)

I'd be very careful applying any finish to old paint. some kinds react, and some don't. If you're going to do this, try a very small patch somewhere. You don't say what the door is made from. If it's plywood or solid wood, it's probably fairly safe. If it's metal I'd be very careful. On a purely aesthetic note, I think the two part resin would be too much, unless you consider the resin to be a design feature.
I wouldn't worry about sanding, but if it needs it you can probably get away with a very light sanding with 600 grit sandpaper. I'd expect to do the whole thing in a couple of minutes, never touching a given spot more than once or twice. 600 won't go through paint in a hurry.
I've hear that lacquer is more likely than other coatings to react with an existing finish, but the term covers a lot of different formulas. You should also consider ease of re-coating - no finish lasts forever.
My goto finish is matte polyurethane, but it imparts an amber colour. There are also some good water based clear varnishes.
A friend had a table made from an old panel of some type, and he had a sheet of glass cut to cover the top, and put small rubber feet for spacers. This is a problem for spills, because they inevitably run under the glass, but it protects the surface from wear. It would also preclude using the tray.
I'm sorry I can't give you a perfect answer on this.
posted by AugustusCrunch at 10:06 PM on December 2, 2020

Response by poster: Not trying to threadsit, but just to clarify: it's a solid wood door, and the tray has a protruding lip, so a pane of glass would not work for this, unfortunately.
posted by Miss T.Horn at 11:03 PM on December 2, 2020

Best answer: Epoxy bar top is your best bet here. You can get rid of the gloss look by giving it a light sanding once cured (at least 3 days but 30 would be better) and then giving it a coat of matte varnish.

Typical experience.
posted by Mitheral at 12:25 AM on December 3, 2020 [1 favorite]

Please share photo of door for best advice.
posted by seanmpuckett at 4:50 AM on December 3, 2020

Came in to suggest epoxy as well.
posted by bfranklin at 6:11 AM on December 3, 2020

Best answer: Yes, epoxy bar top is going to best encapsulate what you have, display it with the least intermediation (vs. a glass top), and protect the details from damage. It can stand beer spills and pounding every night of the year, so it can withstand the wear and tear of your dining use. If this door had true historic value, I would argue for the glass top (easily raised above the vent lip with some kind of casters), but a midcentury men's room door is not historic and will not become historic. So epoxy away and enjoy it!
posted by beagle at 6:37 AM on December 3, 2020

have you considered bar top?
posted by megan_magnolia at 9:25 AM on December 4, 2020