Product to fill in between old wood floor planks?
September 1, 2020 9:56 AM Subscribe
I have an old wide-plank wooden floor which I love. However, there's too much space between the boards.
Our floor is actually the sub-floor. The real floor that was on top of it had to be removed because it was destroyed by water after the house had a fire in it (we bought it in post-fire condition and renovated). So the spaces between the boards are about 1/4" wide, thicker than they'd be if it were the real floor. But we love it and just kept it this way (for 25 years now). This sub-floor, we're told, is hard Southern pine that doesn't exist anymore (the house dates from around 1860). That's why we're able to use it as the "real" floor (we had to get a restoration architect to write a letter to HUD certifying this!).
When we renovated, the people we hired to remove the old floor and sand the sub-floor put wood filler in between the planks. I always hated it because it was too light-colored (the floor is dark brown) and also it cracked over time and pieces would fall out. Eventually, I pulled out whatever filler was left and now we have those spaces again. I can live with them all over the house except in the kitchen, because little pieces of food fall into them and it is a losing battle to get them out. So I'm now looking for a product that I can use to fill in the spaces.
I would like this product to be (1) dark brown, or stainable to dark brown (once I tried to stain the light wood filler, which you're supposed to be able to do, but it didn't take the stain), (2) maybe softer (probably not exactly what I mean) than wood filler, which gets so brittle that it cracks and winds up in pieces, (3) easy to use (maybe something in a squeeze tube?)
Has any product meeting these criteria appeared in the last 25 years?
Our floor is actually the sub-floor. The real floor that was on top of it had to be removed because it was destroyed by water after the house had a fire in it (we bought it in post-fire condition and renovated). So the spaces between the boards are about 1/4" wide, thicker than they'd be if it were the real floor. But we love it and just kept it this way (for 25 years now). This sub-floor, we're told, is hard Southern pine that doesn't exist anymore (the house dates from around 1860). That's why we're able to use it as the "real" floor (we had to get a restoration architect to write a letter to HUD certifying this!).
When we renovated, the people we hired to remove the old floor and sand the sub-floor put wood filler in between the planks. I always hated it because it was too light-colored (the floor is dark brown) and also it cracked over time and pieces would fall out. Eventually, I pulled out whatever filler was left and now we have those spaces again. I can live with them all over the house except in the kitchen, because little pieces of food fall into them and it is a losing battle to get them out. So I'm now looking for a product that I can use to fill in the spaces.
I would like this product to be (1) dark brown, or stainable to dark brown (once I tried to stain the light wood filler, which you're supposed to be able to do, but it didn't take the stain), (2) maybe softer (probably not exactly what I mean) than wood filler, which gets so brittle that it cracks and winds up in pieces, (3) easy to use (maybe something in a squeeze tube?)
Has any product meeting these criteria appeared in the last 25 years?
Response by poster: Absolutely impossible to move the boards. And I'm not looking for that sort of project.
posted by DMelanogaster at 10:06 AM on September 1, 2020
posted by DMelanogaster at 10:06 AM on September 1, 2020
Best answer: You're basically describing silicone caulk, which is available in a variety of colours, including tans and browns. Maybe buy a single tube of it and give it a try in a corner on a few feet of crack and see if it dries into something you can deal with. If you hate it, you can dig it out with some effort.
Caulk would work well because it's water-proof, fills gaps, and is always little flexible.
Note that if the cracks are deeper than 1/4" you'll need to fill them up most of the way before caulking with something you can just mash in there to take up space. Caulk is too expensive to use for this, and will never really dry at that depth anyway. You can buy filler foam "rope" and just jam it in there to take up the space.
Another alternative, perhaps more authentic to the time period of the house, is to use oakum, which is basically hemp and a bit of tar, and pound it in to fill the cracks. (This is the original type of "caulk". And if you go this route, you'll need to find yourself a caulking iron, a classic tool.) This'll be a lot more work, and probably not smell great for months. Which is why silicone caulk is a thing now.
posted by seanmpuckett at 10:14 AM on September 1, 2020 [4 favorites]
Caulk would work well because it's water-proof, fills gaps, and is always little flexible.
Note that if the cracks are deeper than 1/4" you'll need to fill them up most of the way before caulking with something you can just mash in there to take up space. Caulk is too expensive to use for this, and will never really dry at that depth anyway. You can buy filler foam "rope" and just jam it in there to take up the space.
Another alternative, perhaps more authentic to the time period of the house, is to use oakum, which is basically hemp and a bit of tar, and pound it in to fill the cracks. (This is the original type of "caulk". And if you go this route, you'll need to find yourself a caulking iron, a classic tool.) This'll be a lot more work, and probably not smell great for months. Which is why silicone caulk is a thing now.
posted by seanmpuckett at 10:14 AM on September 1, 2020 [4 favorites]
What is underneath the boards, and how deep are the gaps? I.e. if you dropped something into the gap, where would it go and how far would it fall?
posted by mekily at 10:17 AM on September 1, 2020
posted by mekily at 10:17 AM on September 1, 2020
Caveat: caulk will not accept hard floor finishes for various reasons, so if you put down polyurethanes or lacquers or shellac every once in a while, it won't stay on the caulk. But given SYP's fresh hardness and especially as it hardens as it ages, at this point your floor is probably about as hard as granite and there's no need to put a finish on.
posted by seanmpuckett at 10:18 AM on September 1, 2020
posted by seanmpuckett at 10:18 AM on September 1, 2020
Response by poster: oh god I just stuck a knife in one of the spaces and it's about 6 inches down until you reach the next level of the house! So I need something that adheres to the SIDES of the boards. But there are other places where there already seems to be something dark between the boards. It's such a complicated floor!
posted by DMelanogaster at 10:19 AM on September 1, 2020
posted by DMelanogaster at 10:19 AM on September 1, 2020
The folks at This Old House used sisal or hemp rope to do a period appropriate job.
The wide wood floors are going to move a lot with changes in the humidity so whatever you use needs to be able to flex a lot.
posted by sol at 10:19 AM on September 1, 2020 [19 favorites]
The wide wood floors are going to move a lot with changes in the humidity so whatever you use needs to be able to flex a lot.
posted by sol at 10:19 AM on September 1, 2020 [19 favorites]
When I faced the same situation upstairs, the guy who was doing the work cut long splines of different widths from pine, and banged them in between the boards before refinishing the whole shebang. In the end I probably could have replaced the whole damn floor with Brazilian rosewood for about the same price. If you could do the work yourself YMMV.
posted by kate4914 at 10:24 AM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
posted by kate4914 at 10:24 AM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Can I change the question? I feel hopeless.
Is there a kind of matting you can cut and NOT need to fold over and sew or tape? Something I can cut and put over the damned kitchen floor that won't look like crap??
posted by DMelanogaster at 10:40 AM on September 1, 2020
Is there a kind of matting you can cut and NOT need to fold over and sew or tape? Something I can cut and put over the damned kitchen floor that won't look like crap??
posted by DMelanogaster at 10:40 AM on September 1, 2020
There are "wood" fillers designed for floors like this
Shouldn't look too odd as long as you err on the darker rather than the lighter side.
There is also this filler which is supposed to be mixed with matching sawdust.
Note I haven't used either of these products, but they're both generally good companies (I use waxes and shellac from fiddes all the time)
posted by stillnocturnal at 10:57 AM on September 1, 2020
Shouldn't look too odd as long as you err on the darker rather than the lighter side.
There is also this filler which is supposed to be mixed with matching sawdust.
Note I haven't used either of these products, but they're both generally good companies (I use waxes and shellac from fiddes all the time)
posted by stillnocturnal at 10:57 AM on September 1, 2020
If the gaps are really 1/4 of an inch tho, I personally would get some pine strips to fill most of the gap. If you're lucky you might be able to find precut pine in roughly the right size.
posted by stillnocturnal at 11:01 AM on September 1, 2020
posted by stillnocturnal at 11:01 AM on September 1, 2020
agree on inserting shims. if you get something long but beveled to be wedge-shaped you could probably get away with not planing it to fit in place. It will need to be trimmed, sanded, and finished though.
Anything liquid won't adhere super well because if the bottom of the gap is open there's nothing pressing it into the sides.
If you do go for it, I'd opt for a two-part epoxy-type filler.
Is the underside of the floor accessible from the lower level?
posted by supercres at 11:09 AM on September 1, 2020
Anything liquid won't adhere super well because if the bottom of the gap is open there's nothing pressing it into the sides.
If you do go for it, I'd opt for a two-part epoxy-type filler.
Is the underside of the floor accessible from the lower level?
posted by supercres at 11:09 AM on September 1, 2020
Best answer: I have an early 19th century house with similar floors. Sol's link to the This Old House solution is what worked for me.
Another solution would be to put down a canvas floorcloth. They are period appropriate (if that matters to you), affordable, ideal for kitchens, and come in fun patterns and colors. You could even make your own, if you're into DIY.
Old houses are a special kind of hell sometimes because when something is wrong or weird, or busted, you can't just pop into the hardware store, get an off-the-shelf product, and fix it. I sympathize completely. But you will solve this. I mean, you've already lived through renovating a fire-damaged house! You're tough. You've got this.
posted by minervous at 11:32 AM on September 1, 2020 [12 favorites]
Another solution would be to put down a canvas floorcloth. They are period appropriate (if that matters to you), affordable, ideal for kitchens, and come in fun patterns and colors. You could even make your own, if you're into DIY.
Old houses are a special kind of hell sometimes because when something is wrong or weird, or busted, you can't just pop into the hardware store, get an off-the-shelf product, and fix it. I sympathize completely. But you will solve this. I mean, you've already lived through renovating a fire-damaged house! You're tough. You've got this.
posted by minervous at 11:32 AM on September 1, 2020 [12 favorites]
Response by poster: Underside of the floor not accessible at all.
I think I gave up and will buy mats to cover kitchen floor. Odd-shaped areas, so I need to get matting I can cut to size.
I hope moderators are busy with other things now as I am violating this thread sinfully. Food trapped in floors can make a person insane especially in end times.
posted by DMelanogaster at 11:35 AM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
I think I gave up and will buy mats to cover kitchen floor. Odd-shaped areas, so I need to get matting I can cut to size.
I hope moderators are busy with other things now as I am violating this thread sinfully. Food trapped in floors can make a person insane especially in end times.
posted by DMelanogaster at 11:35 AM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
Take a large sheet of canvas, akin to the floorcloth mentioned above, sew the edges, paint the entire thing with white latex paint, and then paint whatever pattern/random splashes you like. Multiple layers of paint are good, as they'll stiffen up the canvas even more.
The result is hard-wearing (I've got a Pollock-style one that's lasted ten years in my kitchen, and it's surprisingly non-slippy as well), colorful, profoundly inexpensive and highly customizable re: shape/colors. Got a weird shape area? Then cut the canvas into a trapezoid or whatever.
posted by aramaic at 11:37 AM on September 1, 2020 [2 favorites]
The result is hard-wearing (I've got a Pollock-style one that's lasted ten years in my kitchen, and it's surprisingly non-slippy as well), colorful, profoundly inexpensive and highly customizable re: shape/colors. Got a weird shape area? Then cut the canvas into a trapezoid or whatever.
posted by aramaic at 11:37 AM on September 1, 2020 [2 favorites]
I should have just added that my sister had a similar problem, and she just used the vacuum's crevice tool pretty much every day. It sounds like a lot, but really wasn't that bad. If you're anything like me, you do 90% of your prep work in one area, so maybe just a little mat there that you can gather up and shake out?
posted by kate4914 at 12:24 PM on September 1, 2020
posted by kate4914 at 12:24 PM on September 1, 2020
You could probably get some wood veneer and cut it to sort of fit and glue it in, a shim job, if you will. Floor cloths are great, easy to clean, and would likely cut down on drafts, too. It's important to carefully fold the edges and glue, or hem, if you have a machine, to prevent edges from curling and tripping you. Stencil or paint it if you have craft skillz. They make vinyl floor cloths, used to be popular in the early 1900s, or painted canvas.
My floors are cold, so I use a yoga mat under a washable rug for warmth and comfort.
posted by theora55 at 12:47 PM on September 1, 2020
My floors are cold, so I use a yoga mat under a washable rug for warmth and comfort.
posted by theora55 at 12:47 PM on September 1, 2020
Perhaps a super flat low-profile sisal rug, if you want something like a "mat"?
Or we have jute rugs in our kitchen and love them (just responded to the other kitchen floor question with this suggestion!), they are super-forgiving with spills and have a beautiful look.
posted by amaire at 1:46 PM on September 1, 2020
Or we have jute rugs in our kitchen and love them (just responded to the other kitchen floor question with this suggestion!), they are super-forgiving with spills and have a beautiful look.
posted by amaire at 1:46 PM on September 1, 2020
The important thing in an old house is not to completely seal the floor - Why sealed floors make walls wet
posted by Lanark at 1:53 PM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
posted by Lanark at 1:53 PM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
so two ideas
a) a rug? I'm not sure what differentiates a floorcloth from a rug except thickness and durability.
b) get a sheet of old-fashioned linoleum cut to size and just... not fastened to the floor. It'll probably get gunky at the end, but real linoleum (not vinyl) is great and very hard wearing and always gets cut to fit during installation. Installers will want to glue it down but it's probably not necessary if it's just tacked down in a few places.
posted by GuyZero at 2:31 PM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
a) a rug? I'm not sure what differentiates a floorcloth from a rug except thickness and durability.
b) get a sheet of old-fashioned linoleum cut to size and just... not fastened to the floor. It'll probably get gunky at the end, but real linoleum (not vinyl) is great and very hard wearing and always gets cut to fit during installation. Installers will want to glue it down but it's probably not necessary if it's just tacked down in a few places.
posted by GuyZero at 2:31 PM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
We have several ruggable rugs that have washed well for the most part. I would recommend choosing one with some color and pattern to disguise stains between washes. We had one with large blocks of cream that never really looked clean. It’s easier to put the washable portion back on the mat if there are two people.
posted by defreckled at 2:32 PM on September 1, 2020
posted by defreckled at 2:32 PM on September 1, 2020
Response by poster: I have a woven mat there now, but it doesn't cover the entire area. I've been looking everywhere for matting I can cut myself to fill the entire area.
Here is the floor, with "explanations.
posted by DMelanogaster at 3:18 PM on September 1, 2020 [4 favorites]
Here is the floor, with "explanations.
posted by DMelanogaster at 3:18 PM on September 1, 2020 [4 favorites]
DMelanogaster, I just made a very loud sound that was some weird mix of laugh, groan, snort, and coo. Your picture is a delight. I am more convinced a canvas floorcloth would suit you and look fantastic. I also love your gorgeous floors. Godspeed!
posted by minervous at 3:49 PM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
posted by minervous at 3:49 PM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
Oh, I love that floor. I wouldn't cover it up. I'd encourage you to fill it up those cracks with sisal rope hammered into place. Then I'd probably just run a bead of polyurethane into each crack to soak into, waterproof and glue the rope in place. Like with a dedicated for this use turkey baster.
I mean, in my kitchen, we ripped up the cracking linoleum tiles and there was an old plywood subfloor and I said fuck it, sanded it, filled it, and coated it in multiple passes of orange shellac. I thought it looked freaking awesome, stains and nails and freaky woodgrain and all.
posted by seanmpuckett at 5:28 PM on September 1, 2020
I mean, in my kitchen, we ripped up the cracking linoleum tiles and there was an old plywood subfloor and I said fuck it, sanded it, filled it, and coated it in multiple passes of orange shellac. I thought it looked freaking awesome, stains and nails and freaky woodgrain and all.
posted by seanmpuckett at 5:28 PM on September 1, 2020
Your picture just made my day.
As others upthread have mentioned, the sisal/hemp rope or twine in between the boards is a good option to consider. We did just that on an old house with old original floors that looked like that. There was a lot of prep work involved to scrape out and clean out the gaps so the rope would lay flat/level but it worked very well to fill the gaps and definitely added to the character of and charm of the old floors.
posted by subwaytiles at 5:42 PM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
As others upthread have mentioned, the sisal/hemp rope or twine in between the boards is a good option to consider. We did just that on an old house with old original floors that looked like that. There was a lot of prep work involved to scrape out and clean out the gaps so the rope would lay flat/level but it worked very well to fill the gaps and definitely added to the character of and charm of the old floors.
posted by subwaytiles at 5:42 PM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]
I wouldn't cover it up. I'd encourage you to fill it up those cracks with sisal rope hammered into place.
I agree, that floor is beautiful. Cover it if you have to, but at least try the technique described here.
posted by Dip Flash at 5:43 PM on September 1, 2020
I agree, that floor is beautiful. Cover it if you have to, but at least try the technique described here.
posted by Dip Flash at 5:43 PM on September 1, 2020
Response by poster: Glad you liked the picture! re: sisal rope: as I said, there are places where there's six inches of hollowness -- so I hammer the sisal rope in and the pressure holds it in place (as opposed to it falling through the holes into oblivion) ?
posted by DMelanogaster at 6:13 PM on September 1, 2020
posted by DMelanogaster at 6:13 PM on September 1, 2020
If you ever refinish your floor again, you may want to consider using a wood conditioner before staining. I think the stain took unevenly because it's pine, not because of water damage. But I agree with those upthread, that floor is freaking gorgeous!
posted by kate4914 at 6:30 PM on September 1, 2020
posted by kate4914 at 6:30 PM on September 1, 2020
If it is the right width, the sisal rope will cling to the sides. That's why you have to hammer it in.
posted by flimflam at 10:02 PM on September 1, 2020
posted by flimflam at 10:02 PM on September 1, 2020
so I hammer the sisal rope in and the pressure holds it in place (as opposed to it falling through the holes into oblivion) ?
Hammered-in sisal rope sounds to me like the kind of thing that would be a really really good friend to linseed oil, which over the course of a few weeks I would expect to cure and glue the rope pretty immovably into place while retaining enough flexibility to deal with the breathing of the wood as humidity levels change.
posted by flabdablet at 10:09 PM on September 1, 2020 [6 favorites]
Hammered-in sisal rope sounds to me like the kind of thing that would be a really really good friend to linseed oil, which over the course of a few weeks I would expect to cure and glue the rope pretty immovably into place while retaining enough flexibility to deal with the breathing of the wood as humidity levels change.
posted by flabdablet at 10:09 PM on September 1, 2020 [6 favorites]
« Older Protecting myself from my little covidmonster | Help me find something positive to read about... Newer »
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by pipeski at 10:03 AM on September 1, 2020 [1 favorite]