How do I remove a stripped screw?

March 15, 2006 3:41 PM

My computer keeps overheating. But that's not the problem I need help with. I can't figure out how to remove one of the screws from the case because it's stripped. What can I do?

I can't do anything that involves a powerdrill, because the offending screw is right above the processor. I tried getting a handdrill and a screw extractor but I couldn't get it to work. The screw is thus placed that even if I remove every single other screw I can't get the back panel off the computer. The reason I'm trying to open up my laptop is that it's full of dust. The warranty's expired already.

So, any ideas?

posted by Kattullus to Computers & Internet (16 answers total)

Super-glue and an allen key...
posted by benzo8 at 3:43 PM on March 15, 2006

needle nose pliers
posted by monkeyman at 3:50 PM on March 15, 2006

If all else fails, you can drill it out with a very thin bit.
posted by Malor at 3:56 PM on March 15, 2006

benzo8, that is an awesome idea.
posted by dan g. at 3:57 PM on March 15, 2006

Response by poster: monkeyman: I've tried using pliers already, and I couldn't get it to work.

benzo8: How do I make sure that I don't end up gluing the screw stuck to the case?
posted by Kattullus at 3:57 PM on March 15, 2006

I agree with benzo8, but if you are worried that the glue will set too quickly, perhaps a slower setting epoxy would do the trick. You could wipe off the extra before it sets. Or perhaps you could put some vaseline or something around the screw to prevent the superglue from sticking (not sure if that would work).
posted by Macduff at 4:08 PM on March 15, 2006

I've found that a torx bit can often pull out a stripped phillips head, or a hex key a stripped torx screw. The trick is you need a range of sizes, because you want to use the largest one you can that you can get into the hole.

Otherwise, epoxying an allen key on works well. I'd use a thick expoxy that bites well on metal (JB Weld leaps to mind.) Wipe off the screw with alcohol and let it dry, mix up the JB, dip the allen key into it, shake a couple of times to make sure it won't drip, then set it into the screw. Ideally, it will stay. Less than ideally, you'll need to rig something to hold it in place until the epoxy sets.

Superglue might work, but supergule is very weak against shear (it's only good in pure tension) and twisting a screw is nothing like tension.
posted by eriko at 4:33 PM on March 15, 2006

If you're just trying to get all the dust out, couldn't you just get a can of compressed air with the little straw attachment, shove the straw into the deep, dark crevices, and blow all the junk out?
posted by davejay at 4:45 PM on March 15, 2006

Katt: Veeerrryy carefully! It's worked for me on numerous occasions. eriko's concerns are more-than-valid though and I'd only recommend the superglue trick for simple screws in plastic - anything that is gonna need a lot of torsion is gonna need more stick...
posted by benzo8 at 4:46 PM on March 15, 2006

Get an old pair of diagonal cutters (wire cutters) that you don't mind sacrificing. Grip the screw with them so that they dig into the sides or one side and the inside of the screwdriver slot. Grip them as hard as you can and turn. They'll cut into the metal and grip the screw better than needle-nose pliers will.

I extracted many a stuck screw this way in my years as a PC tech.
posted by bondcliff at 4:57 PM on March 15, 2006

As another option, most good hardware and automotive stores will sell drill bits designed just for this purpose.
posted by KirkJobSluder at 4:58 PM on March 15, 2006

Whoops, didn't read carefully, never mind.
posted by KirkJobSluder at 5:04 PM on March 15, 2006

This product has worked very well for me.
posted by spasm at 5:46 PM on March 15, 2006

If you can get a hack saw or a dremil tool in, then you can try, as benzo8 says, "Veeerrryy carefully!" to cut a slot into the screw and then use a slotted screwdriver to remove it. Another option that works well in larger screws, and might work here, is to use a sharp steel punch towards the outside of the screw and then tap it with a hammer in a counter-clockwise direction. This works well if you have something for the tip of the punch to get purchase onto. Kind of like an impact wrench. Other tricks include using a bit of Liquid Wrench or something like it, if it won't contaminate anything critical. Sometimes heating or cooling one or the other mating surfaces can break things loose too. These are usually used in more industrial settings, but maybe they might help you figure something out. Good luck.
posted by tbird at 8:45 PM on March 15, 2006

Second tbird. Dremel tool, cut a slot, viola.
posted by fixedgear at 2:02 AM on March 16, 2006

Response by poster: Thanks everyone. I should have enough thought-ammo to get the problem fixed now.
posted by Kattullus at 2:18 AM on March 16, 2006