Last minute travel advice—Italy and Portugal
May 8, 2019 4:59 PM Subscribe
Ok! So I have progress on my walkabout plans, (sorry I don’t know how to link to my previous related question).
I am going on a meditation retreat in Assisi, Italy for a week, then another week in Italy and then two weeks in Portugal.
I’m leaving in two weeks, egads! If you have any suggestions for a mellow middle aged lady of places to stroll, or things to visit or lovely places to eat near Assisi, or Florence or anywhere in Portugal, I’m all ears :)
If you're going to be in Lisbon, go have a pastel de nata (and a great meal!) at Time Out Market.
posted by rossferguson at 5:15 PM on May 8, 2019 [1 favorite]
posted by rossferguson at 5:15 PM on May 8, 2019 [1 favorite]
We really enjoyed Carrapateira, on the West Coast of the Algarve some years ago, and I understand that much of the Alentejo coastline is similarly lovely.
posted by vunder at 5:16 PM on May 8, 2019
posted by vunder at 5:16 PM on May 8, 2019
Lisbon is perfect for strolling, especially the Alfama district. Lots of beauty, wonderful food, great people watching, the St George castle. Be sure to buy shots from the grandmas at folding tables on the corners and have dinner at a Fado restaurant. It's magic.
posted by donnagirl at 5:30 PM on May 8, 2019 [1 favorite]
posted by donnagirl at 5:30 PM on May 8, 2019 [1 favorite]
Todi was a beautiful little hilltop town, and facing the big church, look to your left for a fantastic little linens shop. Find Pizzaria Cavour and ask for a table “out back” - holy crap that view...
posted by ersatzkat at 5:43 PM on May 8, 2019
posted by ersatzkat at 5:43 PM on May 8, 2019
The Buontalenti Grotto in the Boboli Gardens was one of the best things I saw in Florence (the rest of the Gardens are nice too!). And, Libreria Brac is a very cute restaurant/bookstore in Florence.
posted by snaw at 5:51 PM on May 8, 2019 [1 favorite]
posted by snaw at 5:51 PM on May 8, 2019 [1 favorite]
The Camino has a route in Portugal, from Lisbon to Santiago. It's the perfect time of year, you would meet friendly travelers, and it isn't at all strange to walk it on your own. You also don't have to do all of it -- you can do one or two days, at any pace :)
posted by DarlingBri at 7:01 PM on May 8, 2019 [2 favorites]
posted by DarlingBri at 7:01 PM on May 8, 2019 [2 favorites]
There aren't many secrets in Florence, so I won't bother trying to turn you on to hidden gems. I recommend strolling around Oltrarno to at least put a little distance between yourself and the bulk of the crowds. Actually you'll never really escape them, but Oltrarno at least has a character all its own. There's also a great wine bar - Le Volpi e L’Uva. It's very well known for unearthing under-the-radar wines and has great crostinis and other small plates.
In general the cuisine of Florence, though certainly excellent, is not especially noteworthy when you consider the treasures of nearby regions. Some of its best foods are great for the cold weather months - lots of offal and hearty dishes. But I think aperitivo is a good opportunity to eat in Florence any time of year, with several establishments putting out great spreads of free finger foods to accompany your negroni or Aperol spritz.
As far as actual restaurants go, head to the Sant'Ambrogio neighborhood. Cibrèo is something of an institution here. It's a cluster of restaurants and a cafe all under the same name. I highly recommend having lunch at the trattoria for some of the best food in the city at a reasonable price.
If you're looking at leather goods, La Scuola del Cuoio makes for an interesting visit even if you don't intend to buy anything. It's a leatherworking school that was established after WWII to teach war orphans a viable trade. They make very high quality handbags and other items for sale at a much lower cost than the famous boutiques around town. Again, this place is no secret, but it really is worth checking out. It's tucked around the back of the Basilica of Santa Croce, which has amazing gothic frescoes and which you will definitely be visiting if you know what's good for you.
posted by theory at 12:35 AM on May 9, 2019
In general the cuisine of Florence, though certainly excellent, is not especially noteworthy when you consider the treasures of nearby regions. Some of its best foods are great for the cold weather months - lots of offal and hearty dishes. But I think aperitivo is a good opportunity to eat in Florence any time of year, with several establishments putting out great spreads of free finger foods to accompany your negroni or Aperol spritz.
As far as actual restaurants go, head to the Sant'Ambrogio neighborhood. Cibrèo is something of an institution here. It's a cluster of restaurants and a cafe all under the same name. I highly recommend having lunch at the trattoria for some of the best food in the city at a reasonable price.
If you're looking at leather goods, La Scuola del Cuoio makes for an interesting visit even if you don't intend to buy anything. It's a leatherworking school that was established after WWII to teach war orphans a viable trade. They make very high quality handbags and other items for sale at a much lower cost than the famous boutiques around town. Again, this place is no secret, but it really is worth checking out. It's tucked around the back of the Basilica of Santa Croce, which has amazing gothic frescoes and which you will definitely be visiting if you know what's good for you.
posted by theory at 12:35 AM on May 9, 2019
Sintra is around an hour from Lisbon on the train and packed with amazing sights. My favourite was the Quinta da Reigaleira, a garden with lots of great follies to explore, but the Moorish castle was also excellent and the town itself is like something out of a fairytale.
We spent 4 days in Lisbon with a day trip to Sintra and I would highly recommend Lisbon as well, lots of great things to see and do. If you're at all interested in trams the transport museum is excellent, the maritime museum is also very good as maritime museums go (I have been to a lot of maritime museums...) and the monastery at Belem was spectacular. It also has some great squares to sit and watch the world go by while enjoying coffee and a custard tart or a glass of wine.
posted by *becca* at 4:03 AM on May 9, 2019 [3 favorites]
We spent 4 days in Lisbon with a day trip to Sintra and I would highly recommend Lisbon as well, lots of great things to see and do. If you're at all interested in trams the transport museum is excellent, the maritime museum is also very good as maritime museums go (I have been to a lot of maritime museums...) and the monastery at Belem was spectacular. It also has some great squares to sit and watch the world go by while enjoying coffee and a custard tart or a glass of wine.
posted by *becca* at 4:03 AM on May 9, 2019 [3 favorites]
You can be in Bologna in 35 minutes on the train from Florence, in the heart of Italy's cultural food region. You might find a visit to be a welcome break from Florence also, which can be hectic with tourists.
Two weeks in Portugal offers lots of opportunity. Huge stretches of the coast are wide open beaches, many completely empty in my experience. Porto is lovely and lets you jump off to the Douro valley, though the latter is not super walkable, you can get a rickety old train or a boat up it, either makes for a pleasant journey. Some of the vineyards offer pick up from stations to their centres for lunch, I can't remember which one we visited but it made for a very memorable meal. Check some of the other AskMe threads on Portugal for clues.
If you wan to go further north then Viano do Castelo is a prettily located smaller city, not far from the northern border with Spain and reachable by train. Nice beaches and some great seafood. Try Tasquinha da Linda at the docks. If you hire a car this will give you access to Portugal's only national park, Peneda-Geres. We found a lovely walk there though they were not as clearly marked as they might be. Its a nice drive to get there from Viano but some of the roads deeper in the park where a pig.
Evora is a pretty old walled city with modern parts attached. If yo go try and stay in the walled part. If you visit then I would recommend a drive over to Monsaraz, its in the middle of an arid plain which looks like God then poked a finger up through the desert and then someone built a village on top. It has cobbled old streets, twisting through houses and with a few shops and restaurants. Another great location for a laid-back lunch. It also has an old amphitheatre and it astonishes me that there has never been a James Bond movie set there. You will need a car.
There are also loads of tiny characterful villages all over the country. I wish I could remember all their names but there will be a real advantage to having a car and just wandering off the beaten track.
posted by biffa at 5:30 AM on May 9, 2019 [1 favorite]
Two weeks in Portugal offers lots of opportunity. Huge stretches of the coast are wide open beaches, many completely empty in my experience. Porto is lovely and lets you jump off to the Douro valley, though the latter is not super walkable, you can get a rickety old train or a boat up it, either makes for a pleasant journey. Some of the vineyards offer pick up from stations to their centres for lunch, I can't remember which one we visited but it made for a very memorable meal. Check some of the other AskMe threads on Portugal for clues.
If you wan to go further north then Viano do Castelo is a prettily located smaller city, not far from the northern border with Spain and reachable by train. Nice beaches and some great seafood. Try Tasquinha da Linda at the docks. If you hire a car this will give you access to Portugal's only national park, Peneda-Geres. We found a lovely walk there though they were not as clearly marked as they might be. Its a nice drive to get there from Viano but some of the roads deeper in the park where a pig.
Evora is a pretty old walled city with modern parts attached. If yo go try and stay in the walled part. If you visit then I would recommend a drive over to Monsaraz, its in the middle of an arid plain which looks like God then poked a finger up through the desert and then someone built a village on top. It has cobbled old streets, twisting through houses and with a few shops and restaurants. Another great location for a laid-back lunch. It also has an old amphitheatre and it astonishes me that there has never been a James Bond movie set there. You will need a car.
There are also loads of tiny characterful villages all over the country. I wish I could remember all their names but there will be a real advantage to having a car and just wandering off the beaten track.
posted by biffa at 5:30 AM on May 9, 2019 [1 favorite]
Lisbon is perfect for strolling, especially the Alfama district. Lots of beauty, wonderful food, great people watching, the St George castle. Be sure to buy shots from the grandmas at folding tables on the corners and have dinner at a Fado restaurant. It's magic.
Seconded, we recently did a 24-hour layover in Lisbon solely to do this, and magic is exactly the word.
Well, full disclosure we just got our ginginja at a bar rather than from a street vendor, but it was still amazing, and the Fado restaurant was great fun, too. Alfama is hilly and windy and easy to get lost in and you won't care.
posted by solotoro at 6:23 AM on May 9, 2019
Seconded, we recently did a 24-hour layover in Lisbon solely to do this, and magic is exactly the word.
Well, full disclosure we just got our ginginja at a bar rather than from a street vendor, but it was still amazing, and the Fado restaurant was great fun, too. Alfama is hilly and windy and easy to get lost in and you won't care.
posted by solotoro at 6:23 AM on May 9, 2019
If you are a meat eater, go to Coco Lezzone for the best pork roast you'll have in Florence!
posted by ersatzkat at 6:58 AM on May 9, 2019
posted by ersatzkat at 6:58 AM on May 9, 2019
I spent two weeks in Portugal last year and loved it. However I mostly loved Porto and Lisbon, and less so the rest of the country. We spent several days in other places like Obidos, Coimbra, and Evora. they're nice but felt much more run down and poorer. Lisbon and Porto are vibrant and exciting big modern cities.
That being said, the countryside in Portugal has some phenomenal sites you are only going to see if you go there. I was particularly struck by the three monasteries, Alcobaça, Batalha and Tomar. Also we didn't go to the beach resorts in the Algarve. The coastal towns on the north side of the country are OK but it's cold enough it doesn't feel very beachy.
#1 thing I loved in Portugal: the Azulejo, the tile work. There's an excellent museum for them in Lisbon. Also a fado evening in Lisbon. It feels touristy but it's also terrific music.
You don't mention what kind of meditation retreat you're doing. But if you're interested in Christian spirituality, Portugal felt like a very devout place. I think you could do two weeks of pilgrim tourism and it'd be amazing.
posted by Nelson at 8:05 AM on May 9, 2019
That being said, the countryside in Portugal has some phenomenal sites you are only going to see if you go there. I was particularly struck by the three monasteries, Alcobaça, Batalha and Tomar. Also we didn't go to the beach resorts in the Algarve. The coastal towns on the north side of the country are OK but it's cold enough it doesn't feel very beachy.
#1 thing I loved in Portugal: the Azulejo, the tile work. There's an excellent museum for them in Lisbon. Also a fado evening in Lisbon. It feels touristy but it's also terrific music.
You don't mention what kind of meditation retreat you're doing. But if you're interested in Christian spirituality, Portugal felt like a very devout place. I think you could do two weeks of pilgrim tourism and it'd be amazing.
posted by Nelson at 8:05 AM on May 9, 2019
In Lisbon, check out LX Factory, a feature of which is the beautiful bookstore Ler Devagar.
I've had my eye on the Rota Vicentina, a network of walking trails in Southwest Portugal along the coast. There are short circular routes that you could complete in half a day or less.
Siena (Florence's rival, with an arguably more impressive duomo - and you could catch the Palio horse race) and San Gimignano (the 'medieval Manhattan') were highlights on my week of the Via Francigena from Lucca, and they could be a day trip from Florence. A bit farther is Cinque Terre, which is very crowded with tourists but still pretty and nice to walk through the 5 towns.
The Via Francigena joins up with the Via di Francesco in Rome, which (in the opposite way) goes to Assisi and then can extend to Florence. You could consider doing a portion if you feel up to it.
Viaggi sicuri, and divirta-se!
posted by eyeball at 11:34 AM on May 9, 2019
I've had my eye on the Rota Vicentina, a network of walking trails in Southwest Portugal along the coast. There are short circular routes that you could complete in half a day or less.
Siena (Florence's rival, with an arguably more impressive duomo - and you could catch the Palio horse race) and San Gimignano (the 'medieval Manhattan') were highlights on my week of the Via Francigena from Lucca, and they could be a day trip from Florence. A bit farther is Cinque Terre, which is very crowded with tourists but still pretty and nice to walk through the 5 towns.
The Via Francigena joins up with the Via di Francesco in Rome, which (in the opposite way) goes to Assisi and then can extend to Florence. You could consider doing a portion if you feel up to it.
Viaggi sicuri, and divirta-se!
posted by eyeball at 11:34 AM on May 9, 2019
Response by poster: Thank you so much for the awesome suggestions, everyone!
posted by eggkeeper at 6:40 PM on May 9, 2019
posted by eggkeeper at 6:40 PM on May 9, 2019
Response by poster: I ended up going to Florence for the art and the cathedrals, Assisi for a meditation retreat, Passignano Sul Trasimeno for some lakeside relaxing, Pisa for a day to catch a flight to Portugal—then Lisbon, Lagos and Tavira, two towns on the southern Algarve coast. It was a thoroughly amazing experience, and I thank everyone for their help and wisdom and encouragement.
I would deeply recommend Assisi, the beauty and energy there are life affirming and inspiring.
And I am crazy in love with Portugal, I adored Lisbon as well as the coast. So pleasant and relaxing and so so gorgeous. I felt safe on many levels traveling on my own. And the seafood and the beaches and just everything was fantastic. It was hard to make myself leave and I can’t wait to go back.
Thanks again, and I’ll mark this as resolved.
posted by eggkeeper at 9:49 AM on June 22, 2019 [2 favorites]
I would deeply recommend Assisi, the beauty and energy there are life affirming and inspiring.
And I am crazy in love with Portugal, I adored Lisbon as well as the coast. So pleasant and relaxing and so so gorgeous. I felt safe on many levels traveling on my own. And the seafood and the beaches and just everything was fantastic. It was hard to make myself leave and I can’t wait to go back.
Thanks again, and I’ll mark this as resolved.
posted by eggkeeper at 9:49 AM on June 22, 2019 [2 favorites]
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posted by Middlemarch at 5:07 PM on May 8, 2019 [3 favorites]