Help Me Plan a Trip to Seattle and Victoria, BC
April 23, 2018 3:14 PM Subscribe
I'm visiting Seattle and Vancouver Island in early August. Where should I go and how should I get there?
My mother and I are spending a week in the PNW this August. We have never been to this part of the world before. We're flying into Seattle on a Saturday and will spend a couple days in the city. Mom says she's always wanted to go to Vancouver Island, so we're planning on spending the rest of the week in and around Victoria. We'll be flying out of Seattle the following Saturday.
Our common interests include history, natural beauty, and kitsch. Travel limitations: My mother has chronic pain; she enjoys walking, but anything more intense than a gentle two-mile hike is out. I once got horribly seasick boating on the James River, so I will be avoiding small boats when possible.
Suggestions for our time in Seattle are welcome, but mainly I want to know how we should get to Victoria, what we should do once we're there, and how we should travel back to Seattle.
QUESTIONS:
-I'd love to drive to Victoria on the way up and take the Clipper on the way back (to save time and add variety). Can we rent a car in Seattle and leave it in Canada?? If we do drive, what's the most scenic route(s)? Or should we just take the Clipper both ways (or take some other option I don't know about?)
-I'm looking at day trips up the coast of Vancouver Island. Looks like there's lots to do on the mainland. Will we be sad if we skip the Gulf Islands? (Similarly, we are skipping the San Juan Islands, seem okay?)
-Considering my worries about seasickness, I definitely shouldn't try to go whale-watching, right?
-I would like to learn about and financially support Native / First Nations peoples during my travels; where should I go?
Thanks so much!
My mother and I are spending a week in the PNW this August. We have never been to this part of the world before. We're flying into Seattle on a Saturday and will spend a couple days in the city. Mom says she's always wanted to go to Vancouver Island, so we're planning on spending the rest of the week in and around Victoria. We'll be flying out of Seattle the following Saturday.
Our common interests include history, natural beauty, and kitsch. Travel limitations: My mother has chronic pain; she enjoys walking, but anything more intense than a gentle two-mile hike is out. I once got horribly seasick boating on the James River, so I will be avoiding small boats when possible.
Suggestions for our time in Seattle are welcome, but mainly I want to know how we should get to Victoria, what we should do once we're there, and how we should travel back to Seattle.
QUESTIONS:
-I'd love to drive to Victoria on the way up and take the Clipper on the way back (to save time and add variety). Can we rent a car in Seattle and leave it in Canada?? If we do drive, what's the most scenic route(s)? Or should we just take the Clipper both ways (or take some other option I don't know about?)
-I'm looking at day trips up the coast of Vancouver Island. Looks like there's lots to do on the mainland. Will we be sad if we skip the Gulf Islands? (Similarly, we are skipping the San Juan Islands, seem okay?)
-Considering my worries about seasickness, I definitely shouldn't try to go whale-watching, right?
-I would like to learn about and financially support Native / First Nations peoples during my travels; where should I go?
Thanks so much!
Here is a site that can help you experience indigenous culture and hospitality, and support local First Nations, while you are on Vancouver Island.
posted by hurdy gurdy girl at 4:10 PM on April 23, 2018
posted by hurdy gurdy girl at 4:10 PM on April 23, 2018
Sooke is very close to Victoria. The Sooke Potholes are a great provincial park to visit, and Sooke Harbour House is a lovely restaurant; it's not cheap, but the tasting menu was excellent when we were there not too long ago.
posted by hurdy gurdy girl at 4:17 PM on April 23, 2018
posted by hurdy gurdy girl at 4:17 PM on April 23, 2018
For Victoria, you can take a car ferry, either starting in the US at Anacortes, or across the border in Tsawwassen. The Anacortes ferry weaves its way through the San Juan Islands, so it's pretty sheltered water. It also avoids having to drive across the border (and the wait in line there). Make a reservation if you're driving. However, if you're not driving, both of those ferries do not land directly in Victoria, so you'd have to take a bus to get there.
(Victoria is currently building a sewage treatment plant. Latest construction update)
posted by ShooBoo at 4:25 PM on April 23, 2018 [1 favorite]
(Victoria is currently building a sewage treatment plant. Latest construction update)
posted by ShooBoo at 4:25 PM on April 23, 2018 [1 favorite]
Oh, I forgot the other car ferry option, the Coho which goes between Port Angeles (on the Olympic Peninsula) to Victoria.
posted by ShooBoo at 4:36 PM on April 23, 2018
posted by ShooBoo at 4:36 PM on April 23, 2018
Depending on where you're staying, Victoria is very walkable (I live in James Bay right behind the Parliament buildings) so you won't necessarily need a car on your Victoria days. The indigenousbc.com site is your best bet for finding First Nations-related attractions and activities.
For things to do in Victoria, I'd really suggest walking up Fort Street, beyond Douglas. Most visitors never make it east of Government, but Fort is really the heart of downtown living. I'm there every weekend, checking out the largest used bookstore in Canada (Russell's), grabbing an espresso at Street Level, getting me or my sons' hair cut at Brother's Barbers, or checking out (quasi-legal) cannabis at Cloud Nine. Around the corner on Blanshard ("eat street") is the Italian Deli, which has really good sandwiches. But you can go over to the Pink Bicycle for a burger.
Further up Fort Street is a very good tea shop. It's locally owned and they sell brewed tea. Further up is Senzushi, probably the best Japanese restaurant in Victoria.
Another thing locals do is have a picnic lunch in Beacon Hill Park, and explore the beach below the bluffs on Dallas Road and Holland Point. Afterwards grab an ice cream at the Beacon Drive-In on Douglas.
Sooke is a great idea. We'll be going out that way on the August long weekend to camp at French Beach, and this summer I'm planning to get out to China Beach and Botanical Beach if we can, too. You could actually do the circle route, traveling on West Coast Road out to Port Renfrew, and then take the "new" road across the island to Lake Cowichan, and then Duncan. Then you'd take the highway back to Victoria. Or, you could drive up to Duke Point to get the ferry to Vancouver.
If you drive out of town, do not leave after 1PM on any day. Hwy 17 (to Saanich Peninsula, Sidney and the ferries) and Hwy 1 both get basically gridlocked, especially on a Thursday or Friday afternoon in summer.
In regards to sewage treatment, it's being fixed and long-suffering local residents have paid for a solution for many years. We were waiting for politicians. And, just one hundred kilometers south of Victoria there is perhaps the largest collection of nuclear weapons in the world, at Kitsap, and it's something we have no control over of and never will, because we're not Americans. A lot of people who talk about sewage never really care about that for some reason.
posted by JamesBay at 4:42 PM on April 23, 2018 [3 favorites]
For things to do in Victoria, I'd really suggest walking up Fort Street, beyond Douglas. Most visitors never make it east of Government, but Fort is really the heart of downtown living. I'm there every weekend, checking out the largest used bookstore in Canada (Russell's), grabbing an espresso at Street Level, getting me or my sons' hair cut at Brother's Barbers, or checking out (quasi-legal) cannabis at Cloud Nine. Around the corner on Blanshard ("eat street") is the Italian Deli, which has really good sandwiches. But you can go over to the Pink Bicycle for a burger.
Further up Fort Street is a very good tea shop. It's locally owned and they sell brewed tea. Further up is Senzushi, probably the best Japanese restaurant in Victoria.
Another thing locals do is have a picnic lunch in Beacon Hill Park, and explore the beach below the bluffs on Dallas Road and Holland Point. Afterwards grab an ice cream at the Beacon Drive-In on Douglas.
Sooke is a great idea. We'll be going out that way on the August long weekend to camp at French Beach, and this summer I'm planning to get out to China Beach and Botanical Beach if we can, too. You could actually do the circle route, traveling on West Coast Road out to Port Renfrew, and then take the "new" road across the island to Lake Cowichan, and then Duncan. Then you'd take the highway back to Victoria. Or, you could drive up to Duke Point to get the ferry to Vancouver.
If you drive out of town, do not leave after 1PM on any day. Hwy 17 (to Saanich Peninsula, Sidney and the ferries) and Hwy 1 both get basically gridlocked, especially on a Thursday or Friday afternoon in summer.
In regards to sewage treatment, it's being fixed and long-suffering local residents have paid for a solution for many years. We were waiting for politicians. And, just one hundred kilometers south of Victoria there is perhaps the largest collection of nuclear weapons in the world, at Kitsap, and it's something we have no control over of and never will, because we're not Americans. A lot of people who talk about sewage never really care about that for some reason.
posted by JamesBay at 4:42 PM on April 23, 2018 [3 favorites]
Whatever you're considering, go to a site that will gives you an estimate of time necessary to get from one point to another. Distances between things in the West are generally MUCH FARTHER than people from the East Coast and the South expect. Leaving Seattle on Tuesday, going to Vancouver Island, and heading back to catch a plane leaving on Saturday gives you 2 days in Victoria. I really second that you fly out of Seattle and back on Kenmore Air if staying in Victoria is what you want.
What is it that draws your Mom to Vancouver Island? Victoria itself is an Olde Timey Touristy City, with the addition of being the capital of British Columbia. Vancouver Island itself is more varied. You can drive up the west coast of the island, known as The Sunshine Coast, stopping in small beach towns. They face the water between Vancouver Island and the mainland. We find it magical in a very non-self-conscious way. Or you can drive The Gold Coast trail, over and up the east side of the island, facing the Pacific Ocean. Less human habitation but unbelievably stunning wilderness. My favorite destination is Tofino; there are plenty of resorts of different sorts in that area.
Also, Seattle -- well, good luck. I'm hoping you know someone there, who can help you navigate and make reasonable choices. It really is in the throes of Boom Town Fever, and since you have such a short amount of time, you could easily end up incredibly frustrated. (I lived there much of my life, I go back to visit my daughter, and *I* end up incredibly frustrated.)
Do as much research online as you can. And contact me here if you have specific questions. I love the Pacific Northwest, and like to share the best bits.
posted by kestralwing at 6:55 PM on April 23, 2018 [1 favorite]
What is it that draws your Mom to Vancouver Island? Victoria itself is an Olde Timey Touristy City, with the addition of being the capital of British Columbia. Vancouver Island itself is more varied. You can drive up the west coast of the island, known as The Sunshine Coast, stopping in small beach towns. They face the water between Vancouver Island and the mainland. We find it magical in a very non-self-conscious way. Or you can drive The Gold Coast trail, over and up the east side of the island, facing the Pacific Ocean. Less human habitation but unbelievably stunning wilderness. My favorite destination is Tofino; there are plenty of resorts of different sorts in that area.
Also, Seattle -- well, good luck. I'm hoping you know someone there, who can help you navigate and make reasonable choices. It really is in the throes of Boom Town Fever, and since you have such a short amount of time, you could easily end up incredibly frustrated. (I lived there much of my life, I go back to visit my daughter, and *I* end up incredibly frustrated.)
Do as much research online as you can. And contact me here if you have specific questions. I love the Pacific Northwest, and like to share the best bits.
posted by kestralwing at 6:55 PM on April 23, 2018 [1 favorite]
If you get sea sick, definitely skip whale watching. BC Ferries is much more stable ground and sometimes you see whales on the route.
posted by crazycanuck at 6:58 PM on April 23, 2018
posted by crazycanuck at 6:58 PM on April 23, 2018
You can drive up the west coast of the island, known as The Sunshine Coast, stopping in small beach towns. They face the water between Vancouver Island and the mainland.
Islander here. The Sunshine Coast is on the other side of the Strait of Georgia, stretching from Gibsons to Powell River. You could get there by driving up to Courtenay/Comox and taking the ferry over. You could then drive down to Vancouver by way of the ferry at Gibsons. That sort of trip would be totally Alice Munro (she has a house in the Comox Valley and some of her stories, like Runaway, are set on the Sunshine Coast).
The beach towns stretching from Lantzville to Parksville and Qualicum is generally called Up-Island by those of us in Victoria.
While we're going to French Beach for BC Day, we'll be spending time at a cabin Miracle Beach (between Courtenay and Campbell River) for Labour Day. Looking forward to eating oysters for four days straight.
posted by JamesBay at 9:15 PM on April 23, 2018
Islander here. The Sunshine Coast is on the other side of the Strait of Georgia, stretching from Gibsons to Powell River. You could get there by driving up to Courtenay/Comox and taking the ferry over. You could then drive down to Vancouver by way of the ferry at Gibsons. That sort of trip would be totally Alice Munro (she has a house in the Comox Valley and some of her stories, like Runaway, are set on the Sunshine Coast).
The beach towns stretching from Lantzville to Parksville and Qualicum is generally called Up-Island by those of us in Victoria.
While we're going to French Beach for BC Day, we'll be spending time at a cabin Miracle Beach (between Courtenay and Campbell River) for Labour Day. Looking forward to eating oysters for four days straight.
posted by JamesBay at 9:15 PM on April 23, 2018
The lovely Butchart Gardens are a half-hour drive from downtown Victoria.
posted by Johnny Wallflower at 9:45 PM on April 23, 2018 [1 favorite]
posted by Johnny Wallflower at 9:45 PM on April 23, 2018 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Sidney-Anacortes is the best way to go. Just do it as a return trip, rent your car in Seattle and return it there, it'll definitely be the easiest and probably the cheapest way to go. Reserve everything ASAP cause it'll be high tourist season.
Worth it once you actually make the trip though. It's basically driving up through North Seattle suburbs. crossing over some bridges onto the Islands, then a three hour meandering trip through the Gulf with excellent views of Mount Baker and puzzles. You'll come out in the North farming suburbs of Victoria. Least painful border experience you've had in years.
posted by mannequito at 12:11 AM on April 24, 2018
Worth it once you actually make the trip though. It's basically driving up through North Seattle suburbs. crossing over some bridges onto the Islands, then a three hour meandering trip through the Gulf with excellent views of Mount Baker and puzzles. You'll come out in the North farming suburbs of Victoria. Least painful border experience you've had in years.
posted by mannequito at 12:11 AM on April 24, 2018
Poulsbo is a lovely Norwegian town, and a wonderful place to visit, but it's located on the Kitsap Peninsula some distance south of the San Juans.
I also recommend the Anacortes-Sidney route, absolutely beautiful. If you're in Anacortes, our favorite whale watching is Island Adventures. Their boats are fairly large, so maybe a dramamine will help you avoid sickness? If you can stomach it, whale watching is incredible fun. We usually go 3-5 times a year !
posted by skookumsaurus rex at 7:23 AM on April 24, 2018
I also recommend the Anacortes-Sidney route, absolutely beautiful. If you're in Anacortes, our favorite whale watching is Island Adventures. Their boats are fairly large, so maybe a dramamine will help you avoid sickness? If you can stomach it, whale watching is incredible fun. We usually go 3-5 times a year !
posted by skookumsaurus rex at 7:23 AM on April 24, 2018
I've heard stories that Canadian car thieves will target cars with US plates. if you are sticking around downtown victoria, you won't need a car.
In Seattle, definately do the market, the underground tour, west seattle in general is a hidden gem, the art museum.
there are SO Many better coffee shops than starbucks, especially Monorail and Bedlam. don't stop to talk to street hustlers.
posted by evilmonk at 10:55 AM on April 24, 2018
In Seattle, definately do the market, the underground tour, west seattle in general is a hidden gem, the art museum.
there are SO Many better coffee shops than starbucks, especially Monorail and Bedlam. don't stop to talk to street hustlers.
posted by evilmonk at 10:55 AM on April 24, 2018
Skip the islands.
If you're into nature, Tofino is incredible.
Alternatively, a shorter trip from Victoria is Botanical Beach Provincial Park, which has the most amazing tidal pools.
posted by lukez at 11:53 AM on April 24, 2018
If you're into nature, Tofino is incredible.
Alternatively, a shorter trip from Victoria is Botanical Beach Provincial Park, which has the most amazing tidal pools.
posted by lukez at 11:53 AM on April 24, 2018
Depending on how much snow there has been in the Cascades this year, one of the most spectacular short hiking trails I know can be found on Mount Baker's Ptarmigan Ridge. Baker receives a lot of snow each year and Ptarmigan Ridge is usually not accessible until August but once it is, it's simply amazing. Mount Baker is near the US/Canada border, and inland a ways -- driving there from either Seattle or Vancouver will take a couple of hours but it makes a nice day trip.
Butchart Gardens (on Vancouver Island's Saanich Peninsula, and previously mentioned) is touristy but still very worth a stop and it's a great "traveling with mom" destination for most values of mom.
Not only will it be difficult to leave a Seattle rental car in Victoria, many rental car agencies won't let you take your car out of the country at all -- so be sure you check that it's OK before you make plans to cross the border.
Whale-watching from a small boat is probably not advised if you have seasickness problems but you are not likely to have problems on the ferries that traffic Puget Sound and/or the Strait of Juan de Fuca and might see whales while underway. Definitely worth keeping an eye out, anyway.
And finally: for whoever said that Poulsbo is in the only temperate rainforest in the U.S: it really is not unless you count most of the Pacific coast from Washington to Alaska as one single forest (and maybe not even then..)
posted by Nerd of the North at 2:02 PM on April 24, 2018 [1 favorite]
Butchart Gardens (on Vancouver Island's Saanich Peninsula, and previously mentioned) is touristy but still very worth a stop and it's a great "traveling with mom" destination for most values of mom.
Not only will it be difficult to leave a Seattle rental car in Victoria, many rental car agencies won't let you take your car out of the country at all -- so be sure you check that it's OK before you make plans to cross the border.
Whale-watching from a small boat is probably not advised if you have seasickness problems but you are not likely to have problems on the ferries that traffic Puget Sound and/or the Strait of Juan de Fuca and might see whales while underway. Definitely worth keeping an eye out, anyway.
And finally: for whoever said that Poulsbo is in the only temperate rainforest in the U.S: it really is not unless you count most of the Pacific coast from Washington to Alaska as one single forest (and maybe not even then..)
posted by Nerd of the North at 2:02 PM on April 24, 2018 [1 favorite]
In Seattle, I'd recommend checking out MOHAI - the Museum of History and Industry - on Lake Union.
posted by rube goldberg at 3:47 PM on April 24, 2018 [1 favorite]
posted by rube goldberg at 3:47 PM on April 24, 2018 [1 favorite]
mannequito, you have aroused my curiosity. "...through North Seattle suburbs, crossing over some bridges to the Islands." The San Juan Islands? I love the ferry ride, but the ferry system has gotten so crazy (for me) since the institution of reservations that I haven't gone in awhile. I'm not real familiar with all the routes, though, and if there's some alternative way to go, I'd love to know the specifics.
posted by kestralwing at 8:19 PM on April 24, 2018
posted by kestralwing at 8:19 PM on April 24, 2018
Response by poster: Thanks all! This is tremendously helpful. There's such a lot to do in this area that I was feeling a little overwhelmed planning this trip. My mother is very much a spontaneous traveler, which is very different from my travel style.
Kestralwing, thanks for the reminder about Seattle's boom. I was already anxious about this and overcrowded metro areas make me crazy, so I'll make sure to overplan everything and get us out of the city as much as we can.
posted by toastedcheese at 10:37 AM on April 25, 2018
Kestralwing, thanks for the reminder about Seattle's boom. I was already anxious about this and overcrowded metro areas make me crazy, so I'll make sure to overplan everything and get us out of the city as much as we can.
posted by toastedcheese at 10:37 AM on April 25, 2018
Oh, and for learning about First Nations peoples -- the Royal BC Museum should probably be one of your stops in Victoria..
posted by Nerd of the North at 11:46 AM on April 25, 2018
posted by Nerd of the North at 11:46 AM on April 25, 2018
> "...through North Seattle suburbs, crossing over some bridges to the Islands."
There's a bridge to Whidbey Island, but not to the San Juans. There's a bridge on 305 from Bainbridge Island towards Kitsap, and then another bridge to the Olympic Peninsula, but that's not the San Juans, either.
posted by JamesBay at 3:55 PM on April 25, 2018
There's a bridge to Whidbey Island, but not to the San Juans. There's a bridge on 305 from Bainbridge Island towards Kitsap, and then another bridge to the Olympic Peninsula, but that's not the San Juans, either.
posted by JamesBay at 3:55 PM on April 25, 2018
« Older How much can someone expect to pay for ECT... | Should I choose a traditional vet or a holistic... Newer »
This thread is closed to new comments.
You can also fly from Seattle to Victoria for about $150 each way on Kenmore Air, it's really fast compared to any other mode of transport. The planes are so tiny you just park and walk over to the runway 30 minutes before, throw your bags in the back of the plane and off you go. Pretty surreal when you compare it to the current TSA experience. You can price out a one-way rental but when I've looked it is stunningly expensive. Like an extra $1000 on top of the roundtrip price from SEA. There's a reason people rent in Burlington, Vermont, or Bellingham, Washington, to drive into Canada. But if you get seasick, the Clipper might be a bad choice for a 2.75 hour tour. It's a catamaran, but would you want to take the chance?
One thing to think about when you are on Vancouver Island: there is no sewage treatment plant. All of it gets dumped into the Strait (away from shore). Pretty amazing to contrast the natural beauty with the primitive sewage situation.
posted by wnissen at 4:00 PM on April 23, 2018 [1 favorite]