Check The Ireland Plan?
March 30, 2017 9:48 AM Subscribe
My wife and I, as well as our two adult daughters, will be traveling to Ireland from Philadelphia for the first time in May. Been in Europe many time but first time in Ireland. We have a rough plan for what we want to do. Can anyone poke holes in it for us?
We have a week. We're flying into Dublin and spending two days there in an Airbnb apartment. Walk around, do pubs and music. Then we rent a car and drive south along the southeastern coast, turn west to Kilkenny, then up to Kinnetty where we'll stay the night. Hope to do that in a day. Then we drive to Killarney where we stay for two days hiking the park ... maybe one day along the coast and one day more interior. Then, in one day, we drive north to the Cliffs of Moher area, then swing across back to Dublin late ... sleep ... takeoff for home. So first off, is this doable? Knowing we have a passing interest in churches and history, but a love of hiking and beer and music, have we missed anything? And where should we stay in Killarney. Interested more in a place that's somewhat authentic and comfortable rather than five-starrish and touristy. Favorite places to eat, drink and listen to music are most welcome. And thoughts about weather or crowds (or even weird things like where to park a rental car overnight) are appreciated as well. I know there's lots of books on Ireland travel, and we have some, but I'm worried that I don't know what I don't know. Hoping those with experience can help. Thanks.
We have a week. We're flying into Dublin and spending two days there in an Airbnb apartment. Walk around, do pubs and music. Then we rent a car and drive south along the southeastern coast, turn west to Kilkenny, then up to Kinnetty where we'll stay the night. Hope to do that in a day. Then we drive to Killarney where we stay for two days hiking the park ... maybe one day along the coast and one day more interior. Then, in one day, we drive north to the Cliffs of Moher area, then swing across back to Dublin late ... sleep ... takeoff for home. So first off, is this doable? Knowing we have a passing interest in churches and history, but a love of hiking and beer and music, have we missed anything? And where should we stay in Killarney. Interested more in a place that's somewhat authentic and comfortable rather than five-starrish and touristy. Favorite places to eat, drink and listen to music are most welcome. And thoughts about weather or crowds (or even weird things like where to park a rental car overnight) are appreciated as well. I know there's lots of books on Ireland travel, and we have some, but I'm worried that I don't know what I don't know. Hoping those with experience can help. Thanks.
One thing I found in Ireland, at least in the Southwest, was it took me a lot longer to drive places than it would in the US. Outside of highways, roads are very narrow with stone walls where the shoulder would be in the US. So if you look at something 50 miles away on a map and think "under an hour", plan on taking a couple hours. It's also somewhat terrifying when tour buses are coming the other way or want to pass you. Plus there are often cows and sheep on the road. The Ring of Kerry and the Dingle Peninsula each took an entire day to do, with a few stops along the way.
I really enjoyed driving there, and driving on the "wrong" side of the car and on the "wrong" side of the road was something I got used to pretty quickly. Just remember to look RIGHT when pulling into a road because traffic will be coming from the "wrong" direction. Also you will turn the windshield wipers on every single time you go to use the turn signal. Every single time.
It's very green there. I know you've probably heard that about Ireland, but trust me, it's greener than you think it's gonna be.
Weather was hit or miss. We had some lovely sunny days but also a couple dismal days. Never got too cold, but it could be raw along the coast.
If you've never had a proper pint of Guinness, expect it to take a while to "cook."
My wife and I hiked Torc Mountain in Killarney National Park and it was gorgeous.
The single weirdest thing about the Southwest of Ireland, to me, was that there are palm trees everywhere. I was not expecting that.
posted by bondcliff at 10:20 AM on March 30, 2017 [5 favorites]
I really enjoyed driving there, and driving on the "wrong" side of the car and on the "wrong" side of the road was something I got used to pretty quickly. Just remember to look RIGHT when pulling into a road because traffic will be coming from the "wrong" direction. Also you will turn the windshield wipers on every single time you go to use the turn signal. Every single time.
It's very green there. I know you've probably heard that about Ireland, but trust me, it's greener than you think it's gonna be.
Weather was hit or miss. We had some lovely sunny days but also a couple dismal days. Never got too cold, but it could be raw along the coast.
If you've never had a proper pint of Guinness, expect it to take a while to "cook."
My wife and I hiked Torc Mountain in Killarney National Park and it was gorgeous.
The single weirdest thing about the Southwest of Ireland, to me, was that there are palm trees everywhere. I was not expecting that.
posted by bondcliff at 10:20 AM on March 30, 2017 [5 favorites]
Right off coast from the Cliffs of Moher are the Aran Islands and they were absolutely my favorite thing in Ireland, even more than the cliffs. It's a short ferry trip and totally worth it if you can fit it in. Go to Inishmore and hike up to the fort.
posted by nakedmolerats at 10:37 AM on March 30, 2017 [1 favorite]
posted by nakedmolerats at 10:37 AM on March 30, 2017 [1 favorite]
I spent a few summers driving my now-wife around Ireland a number of years ago as she wrote a (now-defunct) travel guide.
The driving thing is true - the roads are quite a bit narrower than most of the roads we have in the US. This is particularly true of the "R" roads. The "N" roads are narrow at points, but generally not crazy, and the "M" roads are equivalent to interstates. That also can give you some guidance for how long things are going to take. So, while it takes you 3 hours to circle the Ring of Kerry, it also takes you only 2.5 hours to drive from Limerick to Dublin. But, in general, just make sure you're comfortable with driving and you keep your wits about you on those back roads. Also, be aware that Ireland is one of the places exempted from the rental car insurance on most credit cards.
As far as music, ask around. Much of the good music (particularly outside of the major cities) is in the local pubs. So, find a good pub and see if they have music on that night. This won't be a problem in Dublin or Killarney -- they'll have lots of places with music every night -- but you may have to look around in smaller towns. And definitely hit up the Cobblestone when you're in Dublin; it's the real deal.
Your basic itinerary looks great. A little fast-paced for my tastes, but not bad at all. Just be aware that you will miss some things. My wife went for 2-3 months and still felt like she was missing things.
posted by Betelgeuse at 10:39 AM on March 30, 2017 [2 favorites]
The driving thing is true - the roads are quite a bit narrower than most of the roads we have in the US. This is particularly true of the "R" roads. The "N" roads are narrow at points, but generally not crazy, and the "M" roads are equivalent to interstates. That also can give you some guidance for how long things are going to take. So, while it takes you 3 hours to circle the Ring of Kerry, it also takes you only 2.5 hours to drive from Limerick to Dublin. But, in general, just make sure you're comfortable with driving and you keep your wits about you on those back roads. Also, be aware that Ireland is one of the places exempted from the rental car insurance on most credit cards.
As far as music, ask around. Much of the good music (particularly outside of the major cities) is in the local pubs. So, find a good pub and see if they have music on that night. This won't be a problem in Dublin or Killarney -- they'll have lots of places with music every night -- but you may have to look around in smaller towns. And definitely hit up the Cobblestone when you're in Dublin; it's the real deal.
Your basic itinerary looks great. A little fast-paced for my tastes, but not bad at all. Just be aware that you will miss some things. My wife went for 2-3 months and still felt like she was missing things.
posted by Betelgeuse at 10:39 AM on March 30, 2017 [2 favorites]
When driving, don't expect to "make good time" as you do in the US unless you are on a freeway. Have someone else navigate and pre-download the maps on their phone. Bring a car charger for the phone, too. Roundabouts are common, so the navigator needs to know which "exit" to use. I used Google Maps to navigate and it usually told me which one. They don't all have four exits, one for each cardinal direction. When you make a wrong turn, just be ready to turn around at the next convenient place and don't get upset.
In Dublin, tour Guinness if you like it but we enjoyed the Jameson Distillery tour. I prefer whisky to stout and there is a comparison taste test at the end (with Jack and Johnny). We rode a Hop on Hop off bus for two days that was great the first day but got stuck in traffic the second day. Prebook your tickets for Kilmainham Gaol if you want to see it. Print them out if you can to save time. We couldn't print them, but they were able to print them out for us onsite. We ate at Crackbird, which is fried chicken, at our host's suggestion and I still think about that meal. We saw some music and dancing at the bar in the Parliament Hotel, which has a show each night.
In Killarney, Seconding Torc Waterfall (but bring bug spray), but also see if you can get out to the Skellig Ring to get a view of the islands and this really nice beach. There is parking lot just up the road.
For the last day, Doolin to Dublin is about a three hour drive. I'd stay further west that night and drive the last part in the morning. It'll be easier to find parking in a smaller town and to drop the car at the airport that morning.
posted by soelo at 10:44 AM on March 30, 2017 [3 favorites]
In Dublin, tour Guinness if you like it but we enjoyed the Jameson Distillery tour. I prefer whisky to stout and there is a comparison taste test at the end (with Jack and Johnny). We rode a Hop on Hop off bus for two days that was great the first day but got stuck in traffic the second day. Prebook your tickets for Kilmainham Gaol if you want to see it. Print them out if you can to save time. We couldn't print them, but they were able to print them out for us onsite. We ate at Crackbird, which is fried chicken, at our host's suggestion and I still think about that meal. We saw some music and dancing at the bar in the Parliament Hotel, which has a show each night.
In Killarney, Seconding Torc Waterfall (but bring bug spray), but also see if you can get out to the Skellig Ring to get a view of the islands and this really nice beach. There is parking lot just up the road.
For the last day, Doolin to Dublin is about a three hour drive. I'd stay further west that night and drive the last part in the morning. It'll be easier to find parking in a smaller town and to drop the car at the airport that morning.
posted by soelo at 10:44 AM on March 30, 2017 [3 favorites]
If you have any time after the Cliffs, we also enjoyed the ferry from Doolin out the bottom of the Cliffs and Poulnabrone Dolmen. If you would rather see the cliffs from the bottom and get out to the Aran islands, there is a ferry that does that route.
posted by soelo at 10:52 AM on March 30, 2017
posted by soelo at 10:52 AM on March 30, 2017
The single most useful nugget of advice for my Ireland trip: when you're leaving the rental car parking lot, pick a car and follow them.
You can switch your follow to another car once you're on the main roads, but the easiest way to not be nervous that you're on the wrong side or in the wrong place is just to be following someone else.
Your trip looks great, more driving than I'd sign up for but not bad. McGann's in Doolin is a great music/beer stop while you're near the Cliffs.
posted by aimedwander at 11:10 AM on March 30, 2017
You can switch your follow to another car once you're on the main roads, but the easiest way to not be nervous that you're on the wrong side or in the wrong place is just to be following someone else.
Your trip looks great, more driving than I'd sign up for but not bad. McGann's in Doolin is a great music/beer stop while you're near the Cliffs.
posted by aimedwander at 11:10 AM on March 30, 2017
Oh, by the way, while Ireland is in some sense famous for beer, it's famous for Guinness. At most pubs (especially west coast, I don't know Dublin), there are generally only 4-5 beers on tap: Guinness, Smithwicks, Coors, Carlsbad, and possibly something European like Stella or something crazy and alternative like Murphy's (down near Cork). The Guinness will be tastier than in the average US bar, but you won't have to spend much time deciding what to order. It's not like England where you do a tour of pubs sampling the unique house bitter everywhere you go. (If you'd like a vision in contrast, consider the off-license with a 4ft wide 5-shelf tall display of different brands and flavors of bottled ciders, and the pub next door where you can get one variety of cider (Magners=Bulmers) available either in bottle, can, or draft, with or without ice. I don't get it, but then, I'm American.)
If you're going out Dingle while you're in Killarney, there's a foodie subculture to the tourism industry there, obviously good restaurants but also several craft brewpubs to stop at, as well as a delicious ice cream place. (including ice cream with sea salt harvested from the local ocean, but the brown-bread flavor was the best)
posted by aimedwander at 11:24 AM on March 30, 2017 [2 favorites]
If you're going out Dingle while you're in Killarney, there's a foodie subculture to the tourism industry there, obviously good restaurants but also several craft brewpubs to stop at, as well as a delicious ice cream place. (including ice cream with sea salt harvested from the local ocean, but the brown-bread flavor was the best)
posted by aimedwander at 11:24 AM on March 30, 2017 [2 favorites]
Oh! One other thing! In the Gaeltacht regions (the Irish-speaking regions, mostly in the West), there are rules that limit and/or prohibit the use of English on signs. Hopefully the travel guides cover this well, but aimedwander's excellent suggestion of going to Dingle may backfire if you're trying to get there by following the road signs.
posted by Betelgeuse at 11:48 AM on March 30, 2017
posted by Betelgeuse at 11:48 AM on March 30, 2017
So Dublin to Kilkenny back up to Kilnetty back down to Killarney and then around by the Cliffs and back to Dublin? I'd try and find a less scrambled route. Don't double back.
We did roughly the same but left from Athy ( family there), drove to the Rock of Cashill, then onto a B&B near the Cliffs of Mother,did those and the drive to Killarney. Stayed a night there. Then on through Blarney, and into Waterford for the night. And then back up to Dublin. I did all that driving and it was exhausting. The roads are slow. And busy and narrow.
Also an essential part of any Irish trip is a stay in a B&B. So wonderful.
Do you mean driving from Killarney to the Cliffs of Mother and then onto Dublin all in one day? While doable, it's certainly going to be a very very long day.
posted by Ftsqg at 12:10 PM on March 30, 2017 [1 favorite]
We did roughly the same but left from Athy ( family there), drove to the Rock of Cashill, then onto a B&B near the Cliffs of Mother,did those and the drive to Killarney. Stayed a night there. Then on through Blarney, and into Waterford for the night. And then back up to Dublin. I did all that driving and it was exhausting. The roads are slow. And busy and narrow.
Also an essential part of any Irish trip is a stay in a B&B. So wonderful.
Do you mean driving from Killarney to the Cliffs of Mother and then onto Dublin all in one day? While doable, it's certainly going to be a very very long day.
posted by Ftsqg at 12:10 PM on March 30, 2017 [1 favorite]
When you fly into Dublin airport, stop at the convenience store and get a 3-day unlimited transit pass. You can use them to take all the buses, light rail and commuter trains for a good price, and the airport is the only place you can buy them (you can buy transit passes elsewhere, but for shorter time periods and for more money).
Expect to do a decent amount of walking.
posted by Autumnheart at 1:07 PM on March 30, 2017 [1 favorite]
Expect to do a decent amount of walking.
posted by Autumnheart at 1:07 PM on March 30, 2017 [1 favorite]
There is a great shuttle bus to downtown Dublin from the airport - do NOT drive into/in Dublin (if you value your sanity). Make a plan to pick up the car from the airport on your way out of Dublin (Off-airport, if you can manage it, will be cheaper, but be sure pickup place is accessible, and won't have you driving through Dublin).
When asking about "live" music, be sure to specify "trad" music (or Traditional). Ask me how I know.
Most pubs allow children, up to a certain point in the evening.
You can get a great, huge meal mid-day, if you find a "carvery" - basically a huge steam table with meats, potatoes (LOTS of potatoes, expect at least two kinds on your plate), veg, and even dessert. We would do this late-ish afternoon, and make it our main meal. Dinner is expensive in Ireland. Also, if you chow down at your B&B, you won't want much lunch.
Unless they have gotten better since we were there, GPS may or may not send you down the right road. We bought an Ordinance Survey map book - once you realize that it literally shows every single bend and crook in the road, it is an amazing resource - and it is always on!
posted by dbmcd at 1:44 PM on March 30, 2017
When asking about "live" music, be sure to specify "trad" music (or Traditional). Ask me how I know.
Most pubs allow children, up to a certain point in the evening.
You can get a great, huge meal mid-day, if you find a "carvery" - basically a huge steam table with meats, potatoes (LOTS of potatoes, expect at least two kinds on your plate), veg, and even dessert. We would do this late-ish afternoon, and make it our main meal. Dinner is expensive in Ireland. Also, if you chow down at your B&B, you won't want much lunch.
Unless they have gotten better since we were there, GPS may or may not send you down the right road. We bought an Ordinance Survey map book - once you realize that it literally shows every single bend and crook in the road, it is an amazing resource - and it is always on!
posted by dbmcd at 1:44 PM on March 30, 2017
I live adjacent to Killarney National Park in Kenmare. Some quick observations--you will do fine driving (most mistakes are made by driving too close to the left side but better a flat/scratch rather than a crash, stay to the left on right turns and yes it will take 1.5 times longer to get places). Take a coach into Dublin. Also, be extra careful in car parks etc--on the road there are many visual clues to keep you on the correct side--not so on car parks, hotels etc. I would encourage you to go directly from Dublin to the Southwest if you only have a week. Authentic/historical accommodations are far and few between and they will be expensive. Killarney is a wonderful jumping off place but it the busiest tourist location in Ireland--There will be little that is authentic but they do a good job. If you want to get a local feel stay in a smaller village--Kenmare is considered one of the prettiest place in Ireland and has excellent access to the Beara peninsula and the ring of Kerry. Crowley's Pub in Kenmare is local and authentic and has local musicians. I will not be returning to Ireland until the end of May but if you want to chat we could FaceTime or Skype as you prepare for your trip. My email is in my profile. I have made the trip to Ireland and back 27 times and spend most of my time there. Relatively familiar with Southwest and West Coasts. Glad to help. Cheers
posted by rmhsinc at 2:15 PM on March 30, 2017
posted by rmhsinc at 2:15 PM on March 30, 2017
Do your homework on rental car insurance before you go. Your policy will most likely exclude rentals in Ireland, but you can probably still find a better deal on your own vs. buying coverage from the rental car company.
posted by spilon at 2:29 PM on March 30, 2017
posted by spilon at 2:29 PM on March 30, 2017
I'm with Ftsqg on this: try not to double back.
Instead of Kilkenny which is lovely but very touristy, you could visit Birr. It's a nice little heritage town but not hugely touristy at all. The main attraction is Birr Castle, spend some time walking around the gardens, maybe get a tour of the castle (which is still the residence of the Earl of Rosse). It's also just down the road from Kinnitty so you might be able to spend a bit of extra time that day around Birr or check in to your hotel a bit earlier than planned and do a short walk around Kinnitty before having a well deserved dinner and a drink.
posted by irishalto at 3:35 PM on March 30, 2017
Instead of Kilkenny which is lovely but very touristy, you could visit Birr. It's a nice little heritage town but not hugely touristy at all. The main attraction is Birr Castle, spend some time walking around the gardens, maybe get a tour of the castle (which is still the residence of the Earl of Rosse). It's also just down the road from Kinnitty so you might be able to spend a bit of extra time that day around Birr or check in to your hotel a bit earlier than planned and do a short walk around Kinnitty before having a well deserved dinner and a drink.
posted by irishalto at 3:35 PM on March 30, 2017
I'm here to echo the voices of concern about your final day's drive: Killarney to the cliffs of M to Dublin in a day sounds like > 6 hours in a car and not much fun. Plus, the Burren (County Clare, the area where those cliffs live) is stunning – a limestone-pavement landscape – and worth spending some time in rather than dashing to a cliff edge and out again.
On your way up from Clare towards Galway (a terrific small city with a great cosmopolitan feel, worth a visit!) to get back to the M6 to Dublin, consider stopping off at Moran's oyster cottage – we stop here when we're passing through, we love the feel of the place, particularly if the weather lets you sit out next to the river with a Guinness and local oysters (a great combination).
posted by Joeruckus at 1:52 AM on March 31, 2017
On your way up from Clare towards Galway (a terrific small city with a great cosmopolitan feel, worth a visit!) to get back to the M6 to Dublin, consider stopping off at Moran's oyster cottage – we stop here when we're passing through, we love the feel of the place, particularly if the weather lets you sit out next to the river with a Guinness and local oysters (a great combination).
posted by Joeruckus at 1:52 AM on March 31, 2017
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posted by CheeseLouise at 10:15 AM on March 30, 2017 [2 favorites]