Travel to Pakistan? Tips wanted.
March 26, 2017 7:50 PM   Subscribe

This summer I will be travelling to K2 base camp with a dear old friend. I realise that with all the geopolitics happening, it isn't an ideal moment for this trip, but we've been planning it for literally years and since Skardu is safe enough at the moment we're still going. Looking for tips and thoughts about travel in Pakistan in general or the K2 base camp trek in particular. Also looking for a travel insurance recommendation. (Please don't try to talk me out of going.)

I will travel on my Dutch passport and not my US passport, which should make life easier.

I want to make an investment in some serious premium travel insurance. The mountaineering company we're going with has recommended Global Rescue, but I have heard some awful stories about them denying evacuation claims. I have heard terrible things about World Nomads refusing to pay claims as well. So some experience with your recommendations would be very welcome.

Tips and thoughts about dress in Pakistan for a middle aged white lady?

What food should I absolutely try while we're in Islamabad?

What else? Anyone done this route? What should I know which I have forgotten to ask?
posted by frumiousb to Travel & Transportation (2 answers total) 1 user marked this as a favorite
 
I assume you know the degree of fitness you'll require for a trip to K2 base camp.

I have no suggestions on travel insurance as I am from Pakistan.

You'll mostly be in parts of the country which are relatively used to foreigners. I would suggest comfortable trousers and some light tops that cover at least your hips and upper arms, plus a light scarf that you can drape over your chest or pull over your head if you go to a mosque. If you have time in Islamabad, I'd suggest dropping into a Khaadi outlet and stocking up on all of these things. If your friend is local, they'll be able to advise. Otherwise, 'kurti' means a loose top that extends to somewhere between your hips and your thighs. Everyone in such shops should manage at least some English or be fluent; most of the shoppers will be fluent.

Islamabad itself is fairly cosmopolitan. Make sure your legs and shoulders and the tops of your arms are covered, don't wear anything skin tight or excessively transparent, otherwise wear what you want. What you can get away with obviously depends on where you are - at a party you'll see very skimpy attire, in the middle class/ upper class areas you'll see lots of casual western clothes, in the bazaars women will tend to wear variations on shalwar kameez (loose trousers, long shirt) and a dupatta (scarf) draped over their breasts but not necessarily covering their heads. If you are very busty, then even when wearing western clothes keep a scarf/ dupatta on hand. Footwear: slippers (not rubber flipflops which are usually used as toilet wear) and sandals will generally be the most practical in the city.

Summer in Islamabad can be brutal, so be prepared that you won't actually want to step out much, and might need more changes of clothes than you think. Avoid synthetics. I see you're from HK so will be used to heat. However, note that Islamabad in June/ early July will be dry heat.

Your guide will advise on dressing for Skardu or your journey up there (if you are going by road). Of course it'll be much colder, though still hot in the daytime. As a Pakistani I would probably pack mostly kurtis and trousers, maybe a couple of shalwar kameezes, and a light jacket and shawl.

Food: Try Kabul restaurant for Afghan food - don't shy away from the mutton fat kebabs and have the fat first. Cheema Chattha in F/11 is a nice casual place for traditional brunch or Punjabi style meal. Brunch: try the puri bhaji or nihari but go early as it's very popular. Other meals: try the paratha with desi ghee and chana daal. Try a good Pakistani style biryani. If you have local friends, home cooked food can be quite different from restaurant food. Islamabad has a substantial western cafe/ restaurant scene, so if you're fed up of local food you could try one of the places in Kohsar Market; Street 1 is popular. Burning Brownie, in Beverley Centre, Blue Area, has nice cakes and decent coffee; next door is a good high-end modern-trad craft store. Khokha Kola also next door is a pleasant hangout spot with good tea and kulfi ice cream.

Monal, with good Pakistani barbeque (grilled, not US style) is on one of the hills overlooking Islamabad; you can walk up one of the trails (don't go alone, if possible go with a male companion as the trails are notorious for harassment or even assault) and eat there at the end. Again, remember that it can be extremely hot. They do good seekh kebabs. Sweatpants/ t-shirt will be just fine.

Definitely try mangoes, especially if you're there in late summer. There is a vast number of varieties - Sindhri, Dussehri or Chaunsa are all good, and pick the ones that are very aromatical.

If your trip coincides with Ramazan (around June) then you'll have to be careful about food, at least until you start on your trek when it will no longer matter. It's considered very impolite to eat or drink or smoke in front of anyone who is fasting, so eating outdoors is taboo. Most restaurants are closed during the day. In the evenings they open to break the fast ('iftari' meal) but often have special set meals, need advance bookings and don't start serving at all till the fast ends. Many also open for sehri, the pre-dawn meal.

Getting around in Islamabad: Uber might have launched by the time you arrive, overwise use the local equivalent, Careem. You don't need to hook it to your credit card, they accept cash. Otherwise, use one of the pre-booked 'radio' cabs - I can send you the number of one I've used. Do not get a taxi, marked or unmarked, off the street. Even locals avoid those unless the driver comes with a reference.

I haven't spent much time up north, or trekked to the base camp, though plan to go some time in the next couple of years. I have just returned from a few months in Islamabad, though, so if you have any other questions about Pakistan or Islamabad, feel free to ask.
posted by tavegyl at 9:25 PM on March 26, 2017 [12 favorites]


A quick update in case you are still planning this trip as I'm just back from a flying visit to Islamabad. For Afghani/ Peshawar style food try Charsi Tikka in Saidpur village. Go for dinner. It looks like a dodgy area, on a dark bumpy road leading into the hills, but I understand it's safe for foreigners. They serve salt flame-grilled mutton. You order by the kilo (the waiter will advise on quantities). I'd recommend a mix of patt (loin, I guess?) which comes with a mix of meat on the bone and chunks of fat, and champ (chops) and Kandahari naan (the very large naans). I didn't try the chapli kebabs but I expect they're good. Finish with some qahwa (green tea infused with cardamom) which is drunk unsweetened but served with a nugget of unrefined sugar on the side. It was really good, far better than Kabul Restaurant which I'd previously recommended.

I do have a friend who got food poisoning there once but no one in my party did.
posted by tavegyl at 7:11 PM on April 24, 2017


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