Where can I buy a men's navy BLUE peacoat?
December 5, 2015 1:48 PM   Subscribe

I've been trying to buy a navy peacoat for 3 years. I'm a man. I have some requirements:
  • At least 80% but preferably 100% wool.
  • 6 or 8 showing oversized "fouled anchor" naval buttons.
  • Big-ass lapels.
  • Handwarmer pockets only - no hip pockets. No flap pockets.
  • Navy blue, not black.
It doesn't seem to exist. I've tried many varieties but they always wind up being black in person.

I've looked at tonnes of peacoats online and a few dozen in person. I can find many that meet all my non-color requirements but invariably the color winds up being indistinguishable from black. (The actual US Navy peacoats are now black but called navy).

This Burberry one looks like the dream but when I tried it out in person it was black. Also I'd rather not spend $1000.

I also just tried this from Club Monaco which looks dark blue online but black in person.

Schott is usually the standard answer for someone looking for a navy peacoat but neither the Navy nor the New Navy color look like they'll be the right color (what is even the difference between Navy and New Navy?). Sterlingwear is the other major peacoat manufacturer and when I checked last year they were out of blue wool. When I look now they only offer black peacoats.

J Peterman has one that looks like it could be the right color but they don't have my size (36R).

I have other navy jackets and coats so I know the difference between navy and black. I'm not confused here. One of my fashion friends suggested that they might not actually make the color of peacoat I'm after. Is that possible?
posted by TheGuyWhoSucks to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (31 answers total) 4 users marked this as a favorite
 
Try LLBean?
posted by waninggibbon at 1:56 PM on December 5, 2015


Have you tried going vintage? Ebay seems to have some, and I bet online military surplus places would too, plus have better return policies.
posted by Frowner at 1:59 PM on December 5, 2015 [1 favorite]


Response by poster: waninggibbon: I've looked at that but they don't have my size. The smallest size they have is a 40"
posted by TheGuyWhoSucks at 2:00 PM on December 5, 2015


Response by poster: Frowner: I've looked into it. This is a good source as well. I guess my preference would be for a new one 'cuz the vintage ones I've tried in the past had some overly-vintage features (smell, moth holes, etc).
posted by TheGuyWhoSucks at 2:01 PM on December 5, 2015


Clothing vendors around the Great Lakes Naval Base?
posted by Freedomboy at 2:04 PM on December 5, 2015


You might want to have a look at Buzz Rickson's, a japanese company that makes insanely correct and well crafted reproductions of vintage US Army designs. Here's their Navy Pea Coat which I believe is dark blue (though it's been a while since I saw one irl). (Link goes to what appears to be their US agent - they also have a european website depending on your location).
posted by Petersondub at 2:11 PM on December 5, 2015 [2 favorites]


Did you email or call Sterlingwear? I too see that they only have black on their site now, but FWIW when I bought my coat from them (many years ago, admittedly), their customer service was awesome. Even if they don't have what you want, they may be helpful in finding it or learning about why it's not available.
posted by primethyme at 2:15 PM on December 5, 2015 [1 favorite]


I wonder if there was something off about the fabric on the particular Burberry coat you tried on...my boyfriend has that peacoat and it does look navy. Perhaps you could try another store? Weirdly, on their site, another "navy" peacoat looks basically black, but the one you like doesn't, which makes me wonder if there were inconsistencies in their fabric stock...
posted by three_red_balloons at 2:17 PM on December 5, 2015


The LL Bean coatlus the intervention of a tailor?
posted by SemiSalt at 2:18 PM on December 5, 2015


In the UK that's called a reefer jacket if that helps you with search terms at all.
posted by stevedawg at 2:19 PM on December 5, 2015


Do any of these work?

Ted Baker

Jort from SuitSupply

Fred Perry
posted by BusyBusyBusy at 2:20 PM on December 5, 2015


This from Brooks Brothers claims to be navy, but it looks pretty dark. I have an old Brooks Brothers coat, made for them by Loro Piana, which is stylistically very similar to a pea coat and is definitely navy. That exact coat no longer exists (and doesn't meet all of your requirements), but those two companies might be worth exploring more.
posted by primethyme at 2:41 PM on December 5, 2015


Best answer: I think this is a real thing -- right now, the "navy" that's fashionable/offered by most companies seems to be a super dark version, nearly black. I'm guessing in 5 years, the more detectably-blue version will be back in fashion and easier to find. So yeah, vintage or just older versions (like 2005 versions on ebay) may be more likely to be the right color.
posted by LobsterMitten at 3:15 PM on December 5, 2015 [2 favorites]


I had one of these after high school, for almost 5 years until it got stolen. I still miss it. I ended up buying one of the basically-black ones.

...And then i wandered in to the army-navy surplus store and saw THE EXACT BLUE ONE.

So yea, go on google maps and search for "army surplus" in your city, then go to a couple of the shops. It was right around $100.
posted by emptythought at 3:57 PM on December 5, 2015 [1 favorite]


Coast Guard pea coats are actually blue. This one appears to come in your size.
posted by hydropsyche at 4:58 PM on December 5, 2015


The LL Bean jacket is made by Sterlingwear. You might call Sterlingwear and ask if they make them for anyone else in blue, but also in a smaller size.
posted by bluedaisy at 5:02 PM on December 5, 2015


Nudie might not have oversized enough lapels, but has the rest.
posted by flippant at 5:08 PM on December 5, 2015


Response by poster: emptythought: My local Army/Navy surplus stores sells IMPOSTER Navy peacoats that are black.
BusyBusyBusy: Those all have the wrong buttons, but that Asos site has some options I hadn't seen yet. Thanks!
primethyme && bluedaisy: I've talked to Sterlingwear in the past and agree that their customer service is great. I'll try contacting them and asking about the blue version that they make for LL Bean.
hydropsyche: Whoa neat. The wool content is too low but I wonder if there are other versions with less polyester. I had just assumed the Coast Guard would have the same uniforms as the Navy!
LobsterMitten: Interesting. I wonder how something like this happens! Do you think someone cornered the market on navy blue wool and is using it all up for something else? If only I knew a fashion industry insider.
posted by TheGuyWhoSucks at 5:56 PM on December 5, 2015


My husband has this one from J Crew.
posted by damayanti at 7:23 PM on December 5, 2015


Best answer: HERE IS THE ANSWER (As I own one myself and matches your list completely).

The Ralph Lauren Mens Peacoat is not cheap (895 USD) but it is a great coat and lasts for years.

Fits exactly all your specs :) And last, it is a really warm and wonderful coat. Highly recommend.
posted by Funmonkey1 at 8:05 PM on December 5, 2015 [1 favorite]


National Geographic catalog sells a U.S Navy Peacoat for $275. My dad has the Navy issue coat from the 1950s and it is very dark blue, almost black. It looks exactly like this one.
posted by mefireader at 8:20 PM on December 5, 2015


If you can pay JPeterman prices, and it sounds like you can, it's probably worrh asking if they can get your size.
posted by mollymillions at 8:39 PM on December 5, 2015


I'd also check Etsy (or Ebay?). Specifically you'll probably have the best luck looking under Vintage items. Here's a search . I for sure would check vintage shops and army surplus stores locally first, but it's another place to check for them at least. Also, if it's a handmade item on Etsy, some shops take custom orders and may be able to tweak a current pattern they offer.

Also keep in mind that if you find something you like with plain buttons, you can likely have the buttons swapped out. Just be sure you can find buttons of the same size.

Here's a 36R blue retro one but it has slit pockets but $65.
posted by Crystalinne at 9:50 PM on December 5, 2015


I was just looking through the most totally random catalog and just saw this: m.sundancecatalog.com/product/son+%26amp-+heir+peacoat.do Not sure about the pocket situation though from the picture (though who would make a coat without pockets?!)
posted by NikitaNikita at 7:10 AM on December 6, 2015


If you wish to buy a jacket and then swap out the buttons, finding new buttons should not be hard - in fact, I myself have a set of vintage Fouled Anchor brass buttons that I will send you for free if you like, as I have WAY too much craft equipment and am trying to slim down a touch.
posted by HypotheticalWoman at 9:45 AM on December 6, 2015


Outlier is out of blue but you can sign up for restock emails.
posted by You Should See the Other Guy at 12:29 PM on December 6, 2015


Response by poster: Crystalinne: Nice find! Why is it still available at that price??
HypotheticalWoman: I've gone down the "swap out the buttons" path before with no luck. I have an (unsatisfactory) peacoat right now and I tried to swap out its buttons, but the buttonholes weren't nearly large enough to accommodate the larger fouled anchor buttons.
posted by TheGuyWhoSucks at 3:07 PM on December 6, 2015


Response by poster: Funmonkey1: I've looked at that one before and wondered. Thank you for the personal testimonial!
posted by TheGuyWhoSucks at 3:13 PM on December 6, 2015 [1 favorite]


I think this is a real thing -- right now, the "navy" that's fashionable/offered by most companies seems to be a super dark version, nearly black.

Navy Blue is a defined color, and it's a blue so dark that it appears black in most light. In modern uniforms, they've switched to actually using blue-black rather than deep indigo because of fading issues. Because of this, if modern Navy Blue gear fades, it fades to steel grey, rather than a lighter blue.

The Chicago Bears official colors are Navy Blue and Orange, but in anything other than direct full sunlight, you'll never seen anything but black on a Bears uniform.

Note that a US Navy peacoat did not have brass buttons, but bakelite ones, later replaced by tougher plastics. The coat worn by officers and chiefs wasn't a pea coat, it was the Bridge Coat that's thigh length and has black buttons or the reefer coat with brass buttons and epaulettes. You don't wear the epaulettes if you're a chief, but you do if you're an officer.

So, try looking for a reefer coat if you want the brass.
posted by eriko at 5:58 AM on December 7, 2015


Response by poster: primethyme && bluedaisy: After several emails back and forth with a Sterlingwear rep I've successfully ordered a navy blue Navigator in my size (he found one at their retail location).

I asked him why no one has navy wool and he said it's hard to get a reliable quality supplier of the navy color. Why? This sounds like the start of an economics podcast.
posted by TheGuyWhoSucks at 1:00 PM on December 8, 2015


Response by poster: The Sterlingwear coat didn't work out -- too boxy. I next tried a Gloverall from Asos but the sizing was wrong and they were sold out of my size by the time I returned it. Then the Ralph Lauren peacoat went on sale and I snapped it up and I am happy to report that my 3 year quest is at an end!
Funmonkey1: you were right. It fits exactly all my specs.
posted by TheGuyWhoSucks at 5:15 PM on January 18, 2016


« Older Fun, useful, unusual: pick 2?   |   How are the Casper/Tuft & Needle mattresses? Newer »
This thread is closed to new comments.