Sealing without sanding
September 19, 2015 7:20 PM Subscribe
What is going to happen if I don't sand before sealing an old hardwood floor with oil-modified polyurethane?
I am trying to whip a hardwood floor into acceptable condition before the end of this week, and by no means does it need to be either tactilely or aesthetically pleasing (it never has been).
The current issue is that there are old pet urine stains that are stinking up the whole apartment. I don't need any stain or odour-removal techniques, I've tried plenty. At this point I want to seal it in, and time being of the essence I would rather have a shitty, odor-blocking finish that lasts only 6 months than rent a floor sander tomorrow.
So the question is: if I use Minwax Oil-Modified Polyurethane on the current hardwood (current finish is cracking in a few select places) - without sanding - will that be good enough for now or will I be crying next week?
I am trying to whip a hardwood floor into acceptable condition before the end of this week, and by no means does it need to be either tactilely or aesthetically pleasing (it never has been).
The current issue is that there are old pet urine stains that are stinking up the whole apartment. I don't need any stain or odour-removal techniques, I've tried plenty. At this point I want to seal it in, and time being of the essence I would rather have a shitty, odor-blocking finish that lasts only 6 months than rent a floor sander tomorrow.
So the question is: if I use Minwax Oil-Modified Polyurethane on the current hardwood (current finish is cracking in a few select places) - without sanding - will that be good enough for now or will I be crying next week?
If you don't sand, the next layer of poly or whatever will become cloudy and will probably flake off eventually.
posted by sanka at 7:29 PM on September 19, 2015 [4 favorites]
posted by sanka at 7:29 PM on September 19, 2015 [4 favorites]
maybe the week after.
We don't know what finish is on the wood now, may or may not be compatible with the poly you put down.
Even if it is, if you don't sand, the new finish material is not going to bond to the old finish if you don't sand, and will start peeling directly.
posted by rudd135 at 7:31 PM on September 19, 2015 [1 favorite]
We don't know what finish is on the wood now, may or may not be compatible with the poly you put down.
Even if it is, if you don't sand, the new finish material is not going to bond to the old finish if you don't sand, and will start peeling directly.
posted by rudd135 at 7:31 PM on September 19, 2015 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: OK so alternate question, if the results stay unanimous:
What, if anything, can I refinish such a floor with without stripping it down first?
Just to make sure I'm clear: aesthetics and longevity beyond a few months are not concerns right now.
posted by onehundredand80 at 7:39 PM on September 19, 2015
What, if anything, can I refinish such a floor with without stripping it down first?
Just to make sure I'm clear: aesthetics and longevity beyond a few months are not concerns right now.
posted by onehundredand80 at 7:39 PM on September 19, 2015
Best answer: If you don't care how it looks, just Kilz it and paint it.
posted by jferg at 7:46 PM on September 19, 2015 [2 favorites]
posted by jferg at 7:46 PM on September 19, 2015 [2 favorites]
You can wash it and wait for it to dry. Use a carpet cleaning shampoo that also works for pet odor. Then use some steel wool for the bad places. Roll on a darker Howards Restore a Finish, let it dry then the varathane.
posted by Oyéah at 7:50 PM on September 19, 2015
posted by Oyéah at 7:50 PM on September 19, 2015
Best answer: Do you have any idea what kind of finish is on there now? Theoretically, if you have an oil-based finish on there now (likely, if it hasn't been refinished in a long time), you can apply an oil-based finish on top of that without too much trouble (not an oil-modified poly, but an actual oil-based finish). Even more theoretically, you can probably put a water-based finish over an oil finish that is well dried, but that might be a bit riskier. If the old finish is water based, you definitely don't want an oil-based finish, but you are probably OK with a water based finish.
If I were going to do that, I would make sure the current is at least scuffed quickly (you can do this with a fine sanding screen on a microfibre-style mop base) and then cleaned very carefully. I would also make sure to remove any finish that is cracking or loose by sanding those areas with a palm sander.
Bear in mind that if you later decide to refinish, you will be cursing your past self greatly as sanding off the old finish is most of the sanding work and you'd have made your job much longer.
posted by ssg at 7:57 PM on September 19, 2015 [1 favorite]
If I were going to do that, I would make sure the current is at least scuffed quickly (you can do this with a fine sanding screen on a microfibre-style mop base) and then cleaned very carefully. I would also make sure to remove any finish that is cracking or loose by sanding those areas with a palm sander.
Bear in mind that if you later decide to refinish, you will be cursing your past self greatly as sanding off the old finish is most of the sanding work and you'd have made your job much longer.
posted by ssg at 7:57 PM on September 19, 2015 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Minwax Reviver Hardwood Floor Restorer. Or similar product. Home Depot sells a bunch of different brands.
Seals the floor, but gradually wears off. Supposed to last about 6 months.
posted by jbenben at 8:54 PM on September 19, 2015 [1 favorite]
Seals the floor, but gradually wears off. Supposed to last about 6 months.
posted by jbenben at 8:54 PM on September 19, 2015 [1 favorite]
Best answer: You can do a chemical etch on the existing surface and then put a new finish right on top. No sanding. Rustoleum has a product called Varathane No Sanding Refinishing Prep, or there's Kleen-Strip, etc. They all take the gloss off the floor and allow the new finish to stick. Some refer to these compounds as Liquid Sandpaper.
Depending on how dirty the floor is you may need to rent a buffer and give it a cleaning of it's life before etching. If there is any dirt or residue on the floor the new finish won't stick - and the etch compound isn't a cleaner.
posted by Zedcaster at 9:00 PM on September 19, 2015 [1 favorite]
Depending on how dirty the floor is you may need to rent a buffer and give it a cleaning of it's life before etching. If there is any dirt or residue on the floor the new finish won't stick - and the etch compound isn't a cleaner.
posted by Zedcaster at 9:00 PM on September 19, 2015 [1 favorite]
If you want something quick and easy, buy some throw rugs.
posted by Chocolate Pickle at 9:48 PM on September 19, 2015
posted by Chocolate Pickle at 9:48 PM on September 19, 2015
Best answer: Do you know what the current finish is? If it is also poly, you may be able to get away with roughing up the finish (mechanically or chemically) and putting more poly down. If it is some other kind of finish (water based poly, some sort of varnish/oil/shellac who knows what) it might not adhere as well. Paint will work better as far as locking in odors. Either painting or doing a sloppy finishing job this time will create a much more expensive (time and money) job for whoever has to do it after you. If the pet odors are that severe, sanding down the poly will allow you to pull out any compromised boards, or use products to lessen the urine that has soaked in to the wood.
posted by anthropophagous at 10:01 PM on September 19, 2015
posted by anthropophagous at 10:01 PM on September 19, 2015
Best answer: The main non-aesthetic concern with not sanding is the possibility that the new finish won't adhere to the old one. Your old floor might be contaminated with waxes and oils from old floor cleaners and furniture polish, and some of that stuff is difficult to remove with common cleaning agents. At the very least you'd have to rough up the surface with an abrasive like ssg suggested, to give the new finish something to hang onto. You can probably achieve your stated aim of getting it sealed in a way that lasts for a few months without fully removing the existing finish, but the cost:benefit of such half-measures is not great when compared to the much prettier and more durable results you get when you do it right.
Do you own this apartment? Are you trying to prepare it for new tenants to move in next month, or are you moving out and trying to keep your security deposit?
posted by jon1270 at 4:15 AM on September 20, 2015 [1 favorite]
Do you own this apartment? Are you trying to prepare it for new tenants to move in next month, or are you moving out and trying to keep your security deposit?
posted by jon1270 at 4:15 AM on September 20, 2015 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Can you spot refinish and just do the affected boards? It would make a much smaller job than doing the whole floor.
The previous owners of our house didn't sand the floors, they painted them the same nice deep dark brown that they stained the woodwork on the walls. Then they put the varethane over the paint. It looked super for a couple of years but it needs redoing pretty badly now. It has lasted quite as well as a full refinishing job.
posted by Jane the Brown at 4:50 AM on September 20, 2015 [1 favorite]
The previous owners of our house didn't sand the floors, they painted them the same nice deep dark brown that they stained the woodwork on the walls. Then they put the varethane over the paint. It looked super for a couple of years but it needs redoing pretty badly now. It has lasted quite as well as a full refinishing job.
posted by Jane the Brown at 4:50 AM on September 20, 2015 [1 favorite]
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if the floor is properly sanded and sealed it's done and future pets can pee away while you shrug.
quick fixes are a trap. you will fix it again later for more money and then again... my vote is suck it up and do it once.
posted by bobdow at 7:29 PM on September 19, 2015 [6 favorites]