Is there a polygamy/crazy cat lady museum in St. Ives?
July 17, 2015 5:51 AM Subscribe
My wife and I are taking a trip to the UK in late August/early September. The primary purpose of the trip is for my wife to attend a conference in Exeter, but we're turning it into a bit of a vacation. Nonetheless, I will still have a few days in Exeter essentially by myself. What can I do? Is there enough in Exeter to maintain a tourist's interest for three full days?
I'll basically have three full days of free time in Exeter at the beginning of September. We're starting our trip in London, and then working our way down to Exeter by train. No part of our trip is contingent on getting a rental car, but I could certainly get one in Exeter for a day trip to the surrounding area.
I'm an architect by trade, so I have some interest in buildings and cityscapes, but I don't know of any major cathedrals outside of Exeter in the area, or of any decently sized, significantly intact castles. I'd also appreciate any kind of scenic areas. I'm kind of kicking around the idea of renting a car and doing a loop trip through Dartmoor and along the north Devon coast, but don't know if it's worth it.
I'll basically have three full days of free time in Exeter at the beginning of September. We're starting our trip in London, and then working our way down to Exeter by train. No part of our trip is contingent on getting a rental car, but I could certainly get one in Exeter for a day trip to the surrounding area.
I'm an architect by trade, so I have some interest in buildings and cityscapes, but I don't know of any major cathedrals outside of Exeter in the area, or of any decently sized, significantly intact castles. I'd also appreciate any kind of scenic areas. I'm kind of kicking around the idea of renting a car and doing a loop trip through Dartmoor and along the north Devon coast, but don't know if it's worth it.
there must be a museum for the st ives school of painters, who were pretty important.
huh. according to google, tate has a (how do you say sucursal? branch?) museum there (the tate is the big, important, modern art museum in london).
posted by andrewcooke at 6:20 AM on July 17, 2015
huh. according to google, tate has a (how do you say sucursal? branch?) museum there (the tate is the big, important, modern art museum in london).
posted by andrewcooke at 6:20 AM on July 17, 2015
Exeter itself might be tricky to sustain for three full days but there's plenty in Devon.
For Exeter itself, there's some underground passages (never been down there but it looks cool), there's also the RAMM museum and the Cathedral itself. We do have a castle but it's privately owned and only tends to be open to the public for particular events, not every day.
For trips, the train line from Exeter around the coast is an absolutely beautiful trip and you can get off the train in the likes of Totnes or the Lost gardens of Heligan (though I'm not sure how accessible that is via public transport).
posted by Wysawyg at 6:26 AM on July 17, 2015
For Exeter itself, there's some underground passages (never been down there but it looks cool), there's also the RAMM museum and the Cathedral itself. We do have a castle but it's privately owned and only tends to be open to the public for particular events, not every day.
For trips, the train line from Exeter around the coast is an absolutely beautiful trip and you can get off the train in the likes of Totnes or the Lost gardens of Heligan (though I'm not sure how accessible that is via public transport).
posted by Wysawyg at 6:26 AM on July 17, 2015
If you're willing to go as far as St Ives (and if you do, then yeah, the Tate St Ives is worth a look, as is the Barbara Hepworth museum), then you might like to see St Michael's mount (across a causeway from Marazion). It's not quite a castle, but it's impressive and an interesting place to visit. I do also recommend both the Eden project and Heligan but it depends how much driving around you want to do. And if you haven't driven in Devon and Cornwall before, the main roads are not motorways and can get clogged up with tourist traffic very quickly. The B roads can be interesting, with very steep bends, high hedges and little visibility.
posted by crocomancer at 7:06 AM on July 17, 2015 [1 favorite]
posted by crocomancer at 7:06 AM on July 17, 2015 [1 favorite]
Castle Drogo, near Exeter, is undergoing conservation work and has some interesting features. You could do worse than browse around that National Trust site a bit for other places.
St Ives is great, especially the museum, but it seems way too much of a schlep to me. You'd be driving past lots of other interesting places.
posted by Segundus at 7:46 AM on July 17, 2015
St Ives is great, especially the museum, but it seems way too much of a schlep to me. You'd be driving past lots of other interesting places.
posted by Segundus at 7:46 AM on July 17, 2015
Yes yes YES to Dartmoor. It is the most incredible, beautiful place. Make sure you get up on the moor at least once for a walk, take a jumper as it can get windy up there even on a sunny day, and stick to the paths to avoid bogs. The moor is simply breathtaking, you will experience several different kinds of silence up there, and it is a tonic for the soul to get out on it, maybe even walk up a tor to get the best views.
If you are near the north Devon coast at any point during your excursions south, I highly recommend going to Tintagel and Boscastle. Tintagel for the castle - give yourself enough time to do the walk from the town down to the coast and up the hill to the castle hilltop, it is more of a trek than it looks, but SO WORTH IT. Do it on a clear day. Take money for icecream and fudge.
Very near Tintagel is Boscastle, a village which was massively flooded a while back and has lots of cool history involved with that. Also you have your Oddity Museum there - the best thing by far IMO is the museum of witchcraft, a) because it is full of totally weird oddities (used voodoo dolls, anyone?), and b) it has one of my dad's paintings in it!
posted by greenish at 8:04 AM on July 17, 2015 [3 favorites]
If you are near the north Devon coast at any point during your excursions south, I highly recommend going to Tintagel and Boscastle. Tintagel for the castle - give yourself enough time to do the walk from the town down to the coast and up the hill to the castle hilltop, it is more of a trek than it looks, but SO WORTH IT. Do it on a clear day. Take money for icecream and fudge.
Very near Tintagel is Boscastle, a village which was massively flooded a while back and has lots of cool history involved with that. Also you have your Oddity Museum there - the best thing by far IMO is the museum of witchcraft, a) because it is full of totally weird oddities (used voodoo dolls, anyone?), and b) it has one of my dad's paintings in it!
posted by greenish at 8:04 AM on July 17, 2015 [3 favorites]
There are small castles in Totnes and Launceston. Totnes is only about 40 minutes on the direct train from Exeter, I mention this as the first half of that journey is one of the most attractive train journeys in the UK, skirting along the Exe estuary and then the coast. This includes the section of line that fell into the sea a few years ago and has rebuilt.
Truro has a cathedral, which is reasonably attractive but not very old - late Victorian. The rest of this small city is also attractive. if you come down this far into Cornwall then there are Tudor castles at Falmouth and on the other side of the entrance to the harbour at St Mawes, there is a foot passenger only ferry between the two towns or you can go a bit further up the river and use the King Harry car ferry. Pendennis castle (the Falmouth one) is probably the largest of the four I've mentioned.
Personally I would recommend against the Tate St Ives, it is the only one of the Tate gallery's to charge, and there are only about 3 rooms. I find the Hepworth to be more interesting. If you do go to St Ives I would recommend parking up the railway line and getting the train in, its a lovely train ride and avoids the traffic hell of driving in, its a sat-nav blackspot.
posted by biffa at 8:20 AM on July 17, 2015
Truro has a cathedral, which is reasonably attractive but not very old - late Victorian. The rest of this small city is also attractive. if you come down this far into Cornwall then there are Tudor castles at Falmouth and on the other side of the entrance to the harbour at St Mawes, there is a foot passenger only ferry between the two towns or you can go a bit further up the river and use the King Harry car ferry. Pendennis castle (the Falmouth one) is probably the largest of the four I've mentioned.
Personally I would recommend against the Tate St Ives, it is the only one of the Tate gallery's to charge, and there are only about 3 rooms. I find the Hepworth to be more interesting. If you do go to St Ives I would recommend parking up the railway line and getting the train in, its a lovely train ride and avoids the traffic hell of driving in, its a sat-nav blackspot.
posted by biffa at 8:20 AM on July 17, 2015
Seconding Tintagel and Boscastle's witch museum.
I liked the big church in Exeter, and I liked shopping at Lush, but don't know that those can sustain a few days.
Don't know if you will be driving or using the bus. When I was there and wanted to see the moors, I took the bus out to Moreton-Hampstead, and then called a cab to give me a driving tour. Sheep and ponies and so much history!
posted by mermaidcafe at 9:53 AM on July 17, 2015
I liked the big church in Exeter, and I liked shopping at Lush, but don't know that those can sustain a few days.
Don't know if you will be driving or using the bus. When I was there and wanted to see the moors, I took the bus out to Moreton-Hampstead, and then called a cab to give me a driving tour. Sheep and ponies and so much history!
posted by mermaidcafe at 9:53 AM on July 17, 2015
If you don't mind doing low-key English internal seaside tourist things you can have a nice time pottering about on the coastal railway, Exeter through Dawlish as far as Torquay and Paignton. It's a very pretty trip. If you were going to get off the train at any of the little towns, try Dawlish for a walk along the coast to Dawlish Warren between the red cliffs and the sea. These places are pretty, sleepy, and very very English in an old-fashioned way. Dawlish Warren has a little nature reserve, bear in mind in England this means they may have a few interesting species of mice and maybe a lizard or some frogs and a cave with bats in it. And some long grass.
It'll be busy with holiday makers in August, may be crowded on the beaches but not so much on the walks. There'll be that sea-side, vulgar, amusement arcade thing happening, also fishing trips, fish and chip restaurants, Devon teas etc. The food is mainly simple and plain but you can get a curry anywhere. If you're into people-watching, and you're interested to see the British on holiday (something you don't get with major tourist spots) you'll be able to keep yourself interested.
By the way they call this area The English Riviera.
Exeter has a museum, the Phoenix Art Centre and any number of quaint shops. Exeter to Plymouth by train (not the coastal track) takes an hour, and Plymouth has even more quaint shops in the Barbican, which is kind of like....Las Ramblas of Plymouth (but without mime artists and delicious food.) Plus everywhere you go people will be talking like a pirate. I don't know if they still let people swim in the sea at Plymouth Hoe but I think it's well worth visiting.
Oh, one nearby stately home is Powderham Castle. Just remember that in this area, everything is geared to ordinary holiday makers and families.
To sum up, in my opinion Exeter is boring, Plymouth is intriguing and Dawlish is a place I have lots of affection for. I don't think foreigners get to see this aspect of England very much - low key, quiet, plain (especially the food); a little bit reserved, a little bit brash. Odd mixture. If I were going to recommend anything strongly it would be to take a trip along the coastal railway and get off and have a walk somewhere.
Oh and the country roads are twisty and hilly and narrow and fast.
posted by glasseyes at 10:06 AM on July 17, 2015 [1 favorite]
It'll be busy with holiday makers in August, may be crowded on the beaches but not so much on the walks. There'll be that sea-side, vulgar, amusement arcade thing happening, also fishing trips, fish and chip restaurants, Devon teas etc. The food is mainly simple and plain but you can get a curry anywhere. If you're into people-watching, and you're interested to see the British on holiday (something you don't get with major tourist spots) you'll be able to keep yourself interested.
By the way they call this area The English Riviera.
Exeter has a museum, the Phoenix Art Centre and any number of quaint shops. Exeter to Plymouth by train (not the coastal track) takes an hour, and Plymouth has even more quaint shops in the Barbican, which is kind of like....Las Ramblas of Plymouth (but without mime artists and delicious food.) Plus everywhere you go people will be talking like a pirate. I don't know if they still let people swim in the sea at Plymouth Hoe but I think it's well worth visiting.
Oh, one nearby stately home is Powderham Castle. Just remember that in this area, everything is geared to ordinary holiday makers and families.
To sum up, in my opinion Exeter is boring, Plymouth is intriguing and Dawlish is a place I have lots of affection for. I don't think foreigners get to see this aspect of England very much - low key, quiet, plain (especially the food); a little bit reserved, a little bit brash. Odd mixture. If I were going to recommend anything strongly it would be to take a trip along the coastal railway and get off and have a walk somewhere.
Oh and the country roads are twisty and hilly and narrow and fast.
posted by glasseyes at 10:06 AM on July 17, 2015 [1 favorite]
Sorry to spam, I keep remembering random things.
Some people are really into steam trains. They don't always mention it to strangers. But people who are into them, are really into them. So just in case, here's some info about steam trains at Dawlish, and here's another something about the South Devon Railway, and here's another something about the Dartmouth Railway and River Boat Company.
posted by glasseyes at 10:24 AM on July 17, 2015
Some people are really into steam trains. They don't always mention it to strangers. But people who are into them, are really into them. So just in case, here's some info about steam trains at Dawlish, and here's another something about the South Devon Railway, and here's another something about the Dartmouth Railway and River Boat Company.
posted by glasseyes at 10:24 AM on July 17, 2015
The train ride from Exeter to Plymouth is gorgeous, but sorry glasseyes, I'd give Plymouth a miss. The Barbican is small, the shops are meh, and not really worth the trip from the inconveniently placed train station, IMO, and Plymothians don't sound particularly piratey to rhotic-accented Americans (particarly those whose ears aren't tuned to pick out regional English accents). But I really like Totnes, between Plymouth and Exeter, because it's a weird quirky little hippie town set among quaint English architecture and castle ruins, and you still get the benefit of the scenic train ride. They have a nice little market on Sundays.
And yes, Dartmoor. Exeter Cathedral. Tintagel if you're willing/able to make the trip. Have a Sunday roast at a good pub. Have a cream tea (comes with scones). Have a pint of Cornish Rattler cider on my behalf.
(Source: American who just finished two years living in Plymouth) (no lie, the thing I miss the most is the food) (and cider)
posted by olinerd at 11:07 AM on July 17, 2015 [1 favorite]
And yes, Dartmoor. Exeter Cathedral. Tintagel if you're willing/able to make the trip. Have a Sunday roast at a good pub. Have a cream tea (comes with scones). Have a pint of Cornish Rattler cider on my behalf.
(Source: American who just finished two years living in Plymouth) (no lie, the thing I miss the most is the food) (and cider)
posted by olinerd at 11:07 AM on July 17, 2015 [1 favorite]
I meant to mention the gardens at Dartington, these are about 2km from Totnes railway station, its a 1200 acre estate and stunning, Well worth a walk around as part of a Totnes visit.
I would also not bother with Plymouth.
We did a weekend driving round Dartmoor and its lovely. Pottering around there is great.
Stay off the Rattler, its lethal.
posted by biffa at 4:22 PM on July 17, 2015
I would also not bother with Plymouth.
We did a weekend driving round Dartmoor and its lovely. Pottering around there is great.
Stay off the Rattler, its lethal.
posted by biffa at 4:22 PM on July 17, 2015
Wikipedia has a decent list of Castles, most of Devon, Dorset, Somerset and Cornwall will be accessible to you if you are prepared to drive.
Going the other way to most suggestions (which are all good) Wells Cathedral is about an hour and a half's drive. Salisbury Cathedral is a little further afield (about 2 hours, and do-able by train) but quite spectacular if you are interested in cathedral architecture.
posted by tallus at 5:16 PM on July 17, 2015
Going the other way to most suggestions (which are all good) Wells Cathedral is about an hour and a half's drive. Salisbury Cathedral is a little further afield (about 2 hours, and do-able by train) but quite spectacular if you are interested in cathedral architecture.
posted by tallus at 5:16 PM on July 17, 2015
Response by poster: Our stop right before Exeter (and after London) is Salisbury, so we've got that one covered along with the standard touristy stuff around there.
I was actually considering Tintagel as part of the loop trip I mentioned, but thought I might have some difficulty accessing the castle without the breath of the dragon to aid me. I may see how prices compare between renting a car and taking a train trip somewhere, but knowing that there's something else (Boscastle) almost right next door is nice.
posted by LionIndex at 7:26 PM on July 17, 2015
I was actually considering Tintagel as part of the loop trip I mentioned, but thought I might have some difficulty accessing the castle without the breath of the dragon to aid me. I may see how prices compare between renting a car and taking a train trip somewhere, but knowing that there's something else (Boscastle) almost right next door is nice.
posted by LionIndex at 7:26 PM on July 17, 2015
I feel obliged to warn you that Tintagel is a bit crap, someone may actually try to sell you the breath of the dragon, or a crystal or a cape or whatever other tat they have to hand. We drove to the castle then turned around and drove back out of town without bothering to stop, only place in Cornwall we've ever done that.
posted by biffa at 3:33 PM on July 19, 2015
posted by biffa at 3:33 PM on July 19, 2015
biffa, have you got the right place? You can't actually drive to the castle at Tintagel. It's a walk (or shuttle ride) down a hill, and a walk up the side of the outcrop on which it is, and across a footbridge. and once you're up there it's stunning!
I also wasn't sold any dragonbreath or capes there, just fudge. so much fudge. and all of it got eaten so, so fast.
posted by greenish at 2:14 AM on July 20, 2015
I also wasn't sold any dragonbreath or capes there, just fudge. so much fudge. and all of it got eaten so, so fast.
posted by greenish at 2:14 AM on July 20, 2015
I have got the right place, we drove into town, it was full of tat, it was rammed going right up to the castle car park so we quit on it.
posted by biffa at 7:43 AM on July 20, 2015
posted by biffa at 7:43 AM on July 20, 2015
You might also look at whether there are some National Trust properties that would interest you. Buckland Abbey is on the west side of Dartmoor and an attractive and very historical place to visit.
Exeter to Plymouth by train (not the coastal track)
I'm pretty certain there is only a coastal track.
posted by biffa at 10:34 AM on July 23, 2015
Exeter to Plymouth by train (not the coastal track)
I'm pretty certain there is only a coastal track.
posted by biffa at 10:34 AM on July 23, 2015
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I was also going to suggest the wonderful/horrific taxidermy exhibition at Jamaica Inn, which I went to on the same trip, but I see it is no more.
posted by penguin pie at 5:57 AM on July 17, 2015