I've got 25 miles and a very sore bum [Long distance biking question]
July 16, 2015 8:58 AM Subscribe
Last year, I rode in a 25 mile charity ride and used a hybrid bicycle. It was one of the worst experiences because the shocks on the bike really made it hard to propel myself. I'd like to make cycling a part of my life, but am not ready (or able) to invest upwards of $500 for a decent bike. What are your recommendations for a good distance cycle for road riding?
Last year, I rode in a 25 mile charity ride and used a hybrid bicycle. It was one of the worst experiences because the shocks on the bike really made it hard to propel myself. I'd like to make cycling a part of my life, but am not ready (or able) to invest upwards of $500 for a decent bike. What are your recommendations for a good distance cycle for road riding?
Things I've heard:
Cyclocross is perfect for this (also very expensive. I can't find one around $200/less. Are road bikes the same thing?
I feel like a mountain bike might not be the best thing either?
Finances are an issue, as I'm currently going through a divorce. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Last year, I rode in a 25 mile charity ride and used a hybrid bicycle. It was one of the worst experiences because the shocks on the bike really made it hard to propel myself. I'd like to make cycling a part of my life, but am not ready (or able) to invest upwards of $500 for a decent bike. What are your recommendations for a good distance cycle for road riding?
Things I've heard:
Cyclocross is perfect for this (also very expensive. I can't find one around $200/less. Are road bikes the same thing?
I feel like a mountain bike might not be the best thing either?
Finances are an issue, as I'm currently going through a divorce. Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
I would invest in a better seat and some biking shorts. Go to a bike store and have them fit you for a seat. They should be able to measure your sit bones and help you find an appropriate seat. Bike shorts have special padding in them and will help immensely with long distance rides.
Craigslist is actually a great place to find affordable and good bikes.
posted by monologish at 9:09 AM on July 16, 2015 [3 favorites]
Craigslist is actually a great place to find affordable and good bikes.
posted by monologish at 9:09 AM on July 16, 2015 [3 favorites]
Best answer: Sorry if it's a naive question, but it's not clear from your post - do you cycle regularly? Saddle soreness usually isn't an issue after the first few days or regular riding (and I'm not convinced that trading up on the bike would mean that you wouldn't experience it, if you're coming to the charity race without much riding prep).
If that's the issue I'd personally be inclined to stick with the hybrid and just do some training beforehand. Finding someone to help you out with the 'fit' would be a good call too (i.e. saddle height, reach to handlebars and pedals, seat position etc).
If you use a road frame / drop handlebars, unless you have it perfectly fitted and already have quite a strong core, you might find that you're swapping bum pain for lower back pain.
posted by bifter at 9:09 AM on July 16, 2015 [2 favorites]
If that's the issue I'd personally be inclined to stick with the hybrid and just do some training beforehand. Finding someone to help you out with the 'fit' would be a good call too (i.e. saddle height, reach to handlebars and pedals, seat position etc).
If you use a road frame / drop handlebars, unless you have it perfectly fitted and already have quite a strong core, you might find that you're swapping bum pain for lower back pain.
posted by bifter at 9:09 AM on July 16, 2015 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: Sorry! Re: Bum, I was trying to be cute with the title. Epic Fail!
It's more along the lines of with the hybrid bike and it's great shocks, I wasn't able to pump on the bicycle effectively and generate any positive locomotion.
I'm not an avid bicyclist; however, I have a 10 mile commute to work and am really considering riding it daily.
For those that indicate buy once, and buy quality. Do bike shops offer payment plans and/or financing? As I mentioned, divorce, and funds are tight.
posted by Draccy at 9:16 AM on July 16, 2015
It's more along the lines of with the hybrid bike and it's great shocks, I wasn't able to pump on the bicycle effectively and generate any positive locomotion.
I'm not an avid bicyclist; however, I have a 10 mile commute to work and am really considering riding it daily.
For those that indicate buy once, and buy quality. Do bike shops offer payment plans and/or financing? As I mentioned, divorce, and funds are tight.
posted by Draccy at 9:16 AM on July 16, 2015
I don't know if you own the hybrid or were just borrowing it, but if it's yours you should check whether it has a suspension lockout. Locking out the suspension can make it much more suitable for road-riding.
posted by hollyholly at 9:17 AM on July 16, 2015 [2 favorites]
posted by hollyholly at 9:17 AM on July 16, 2015 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: hollyholly: It was a borrow, but it was also VERY cheap and didn't have what looks like a great feature. I'll keep it in mind though, if I buy another hybrid.
posted by Draccy at 9:19 AM on July 16, 2015
posted by Draccy at 9:19 AM on July 16, 2015
I bought a 100 dollar hybrid off Craigslist and have been riding it for the past 10 years. If you just want a cheap hybrid they can definitely be found for less than 200. You do have to be aware of the fit and be willing to replace any of the components if they are wonky. Still, you can definitely pay less than 300 and get a pretty decent used bike.
You're right to suspect the suspension, though, in terms of robbing you of power. And any bikes at this price with a suspension are trash, anyway.
posted by thewumpusisdead at 9:25 AM on July 16, 2015 [1 favorite]
You're right to suspect the suspension, though, in terms of robbing you of power. And any bikes at this price with a suspension are trash, anyway.
posted by thewumpusisdead at 9:25 AM on July 16, 2015 [1 favorite]
I picked up my favorite road bike of all time on craigslist, used for a bit over your budget. I've put some more work into it to make it super comfortable, but it was bone stock when I purchased it (they don't sell them fully assembled anymore, but there are tons of them out there), and even in that state it was great. I ride it about 10 miles round trip when I don't have my son with me, and its pretty fantastic. I irregularly use it to ride much more than that though.
Its a single speed, (not a fixed gear, you can coast, it just has one speed) but I still find it way more comfortable and easy to ride than my old multi-geared road bikes.
I really think you're going to have a hard time finding something at your price point, but if you can throw a couple extra hundred bucks at the problem, you'll be in the range of a really good, used bike.
posted by furnace.heart at 9:27 AM on July 16, 2015
Its a single speed, (not a fixed gear, you can coast, it just has one speed) but I still find it way more comfortable and easy to ride than my old multi-geared road bikes.
I really think you're going to have a hard time finding something at your price point, but if you can throw a couple extra hundred bucks at the problem, you'll be in the range of a really good, used bike.
posted by furnace.heart at 9:27 AM on July 16, 2015
It's more along the lines of with the hybrid bike and it's great shocks, I wasn't able to pump on the bicycle effectively and generate any positive locomotion.
I'm confused - you shouldn't be bouncing so hard on the bike so as to cycle the suspension. In fact, you shouldn't be bouncing - your legs go round and round and the rest of you should remain static. You shouldn't be causing the suspension to move much, if at all.
Also, is this the kind of hybrid with a shock in the seat, or just the one on the front fork ?
I suspect that your form is poor - and changing bikes to something firmer will only exacerbate your soreness. In this case, I would recommend you work on holding your upper body more rigid while you ride. Don't bounce or sway - that is just wasted energy.
posted by Pogo_Fuzzybutt at 9:31 AM on July 16, 2015
I'm confused - you shouldn't be bouncing so hard on the bike so as to cycle the suspension. In fact, you shouldn't be bouncing - your legs go round and round and the rest of you should remain static. You shouldn't be causing the suspension to move much, if at all.
Also, is this the kind of hybrid with a shock in the seat, or just the one on the front fork ?
I suspect that your form is poor - and changing bikes to something firmer will only exacerbate your soreness. In this case, I would recommend you work on holding your upper body more rigid while you ride. Don't bounce or sway - that is just wasted energy.
posted by Pogo_Fuzzybutt at 9:31 AM on July 16, 2015
Response by poster: Pogo_Fuzzybutt (love the name): I was having trouble on hills (I'm in Worcester, so tons of hills). I'd have to stand to get the pedals to move, no matter what gear I chose. It could be that the seat wasn't high enough, but I'm 5'5" so the 26 inch frame is hard for me.
Are you saying that I should never have to stand when riding? I definitely have AWFUL form then.
posted by Draccy at 9:34 AM on July 16, 2015
Are you saying that I should never have to stand when riding? I definitely have AWFUL form then.
posted by Draccy at 9:34 AM on July 16, 2015
Craigslist is great for bikes.
As with a lot of fitness-related equipment, people have a tendency to buy fancy ones and then sometimes not follow through to actually use them, so the used market is rich.
posted by amtho at 9:50 AM on July 16, 2015
As with a lot of fitness-related equipment, people have a tendency to buy fancy ones and then sometimes not follow through to actually use them, so the used market is rich.
posted by amtho at 9:50 AM on July 16, 2015
Best answer: You should barely ever have to stand while riding, if you're in the right gear. You may want To stand, to get away from a start quicker, but it shouldn't be necessary, even on steep hills.
It just sounds like a badly fitting bike in general. Were the handlebars high enough for you? If you're a novice cyclist you won't be generating much force through your legs so all of your weight will be going through your wrists if you have the bars too low.
Honestly I'd go and get fitted at a proper bike shop. I'm 5'1 and my bike frame (mens specialised Sirius XS) fits me fine. At 5'5 you should have no trouble finding a bike to fit. Look at commuter bikes, they're generally pretty comfy rides.
posted by tinkletown at 9:51 AM on July 16, 2015 [1 favorite]
It just sounds like a badly fitting bike in general. Were the handlebars high enough for you? If you're a novice cyclist you won't be generating much force through your legs so all of your weight will be going through your wrists if you have the bars too low.
Honestly I'd go and get fitted at a proper bike shop. I'm 5'1 and my bike frame (mens specialised Sirius XS) fits me fine. At 5'5 you should have no trouble finding a bike to fit. Look at commuter bikes, they're generally pretty comfy rides.
posted by tinkletown at 9:51 AM on July 16, 2015 [1 favorite]
Best answer: A cyclocross bike is basically a road bike with fatter tyres and a slightly less stretched position, so good for tracks, trails and grass as well as roads. A road bike would do just as well if you are only planning on riding on roads. If money is an issue, you can get good ones second hand although make sure you get someone bike-savvy to look at it with you to make sure you're not buying a duff one. Definitely not a mountain bike. A more road-oriented hybrid would probably work fine too. One with rigid suspension!
If you really are riding a bike with a 26" frame (not wheels?) then I think it is much too big for you. 16-19" would be right for a hybrid, a little bigger for a road/cyclocross bike.
I think standing is best reserved for short, steep climbs, like going over a bridge, or for giving a bit of oomph when getting started or getting round something. You certainly shouldn't find yourself standing all the way up a hill. I find hills are best taken in a middle gear, pedalling fast and with my back flat to make me more streamlined. Hills are a bit more of a struggle on a hybrid than a road bike but they should still be doable.
posted by intensitymultiply at 9:56 AM on July 16, 2015
If you really are riding a bike with a 26" frame (not wheels?) then I think it is much too big for you. 16-19" would be right for a hybrid, a little bigger for a road/cyclocross bike.
I think standing is best reserved for short, steep climbs, like going over a bridge, or for giving a bit of oomph when getting started or getting round something. You certainly shouldn't find yourself standing all the way up a hill. I find hills are best taken in a middle gear, pedalling fast and with my back flat to make me more streamlined. Hills are a bit more of a struggle on a hybrid than a road bike but they should still be doable.
posted by intensitymultiply at 9:56 AM on July 16, 2015
The only new bikes I've ever seen in the neighborhood of $200 are from Target or Walmart. I had one once in a pinch, and it got me around town, but it was heavy, uncomfortable and didn't handle well.
Locally (MPLS; you're out east so I imagine things are more expensive) I've started seeing some adequate bikes for around $350 - Jamis, mainly.
Your total round trip is ten miles? If you're not planning on riding in the snow, a $350 Jamis would probably take care of you if it fit right. If you mean that each way is 10 miles, so you're looking at 100 miles a week on commuting alone, you definitely need something much better.
It looks as though a place called Bicycle World in a nearby town has a lot of used bikes. Since you haven't bought one before, I think you should head over there - or somewhere similar - and look around, figure out what fits you, etc. (I've bought umpteen zillion bikes as an adult - and by umpteen zillion I mean about six or seven - and at this point I can eyeball whether a bike is likely to be comfortable for me, but I got stuck with some real clunkers for about the first few purchases.)
posted by Frowner at 10:04 AM on July 16, 2015 [2 favorites]
Locally (MPLS; you're out east so I imagine things are more expensive) I've started seeing some adequate bikes for around $350 - Jamis, mainly.
Your total round trip is ten miles? If you're not planning on riding in the snow, a $350 Jamis would probably take care of you if it fit right. If you mean that each way is 10 miles, so you're looking at 100 miles a week on commuting alone, you definitely need something much better.
It looks as though a place called Bicycle World in a nearby town has a lot of used bikes. Since you haven't bought one before, I think you should head over there - or somewhere similar - and look around, figure out what fits you, etc. (I've bought umpteen zillion bikes as an adult - and by umpteen zillion I mean about six or seven - and at this point I can eyeball whether a bike is likely to be comfortable for me, but I got stuck with some real clunkers for about the first few purchases.)
posted by Frowner at 10:04 AM on July 16, 2015 [2 favorites]
Also, if you're starting a daily 10 mile bike commute, make sure you can fix a flat and carry supplies to do so. Also, get used to carrying minor bike kit stuff - you'll be far enough from home/work that it will be a huge drag to have to walk your bike if it breaks down.
posted by Frowner at 10:06 AM on July 16, 2015
posted by Frowner at 10:06 AM on July 16, 2015
Best answer: Pogo_Fuzzybutt (love the name): I was having trouble on hills (I'm in Worcester, so tons of hills). I'd have to stand to get the pedals to move, no matter what gear I chose. It could be that the seat wasn't high enough, but I'm 5'5" so the 26 inch frame is hard for me.
Hehe. I live in CO. Lets talk about biking on "hills"....
Anyway, yeah, you shouldn't be standing to go up hills. Maybe for a bit, or to get to the top a bit faster - but the cost is you just tire yourself out faster. It is far more efficient to remain seating (no bobbing or swaying) and just locomote your way up.
It takes some practice, and it also takes some core strength. Also, the bike should fit well, and be comfortable. If the frame is too large or too small, then all of this will be made harder.
But really, the best bike is one you actually ride. The more time you spend on it, the better things will be.
posted by Pogo_Fuzzybutt at 10:07 AM on July 16, 2015
Hehe. I live in CO. Lets talk about biking on "hills"....
Anyway, yeah, you shouldn't be standing to go up hills. Maybe for a bit, or to get to the top a bit faster - but the cost is you just tire yourself out faster. It is far more efficient to remain seating (no bobbing or swaying) and just locomote your way up.
It takes some practice, and it also takes some core strength. Also, the bike should fit well, and be comfortable. If the frame is too large or too small, then all of this will be made harder.
But really, the best bike is one you actually ride. The more time you spend on it, the better things will be.
posted by Pogo_Fuzzybutt at 10:07 AM on July 16, 2015
Best answer: So I've never heard of a hybrid bike with shocks, so I'm guessing we're on a bit of a terminology difference there. Shocks are seen a lot on "Walmart Special" bikes, and any 'real' bike is a serious world of difference from any Walmart Special.
What does this mean? Well, you can carefully go used, or your price point starts at around $400, and 'hybrids' are the cheapest of the low-end real bike market. Something like a Trek 7.2fx, which is what I have, is a 'cheap but good' commuter-hybrid. That's a very popular model, and it's great. I'm regularly doing 30km trips with ease now (I'm overweight, out of shape, and two months ago could barely do 5!), and it's fun instead of the chore it was on my old bike (a crappy no-name folding bike). I'm 5'5" and use a 17.5 size, if that helps. (The 7.0fx is $379 US!)
...Seriously, I didn't know this was supposed to be fun!
Cyclocross is specialized, so they're almost all going to be universally more expensive since it's like buying a sports car or a jeep for offroading - it's a specialized car, not a Honda Civic.
Road bikes (let's assume my definition ranges to 'all 'real' bikes with drop bars) by their nature need to be lighter and tend to be marketed to people already in the hobby, so will be more expensive - starting in the $600-700 range.
Lastly, local bike shops are amazing. They might have used gems for cheap, they'll fit you properly onto something that works with your leg and arm length, they might have financing, and will generally include one or more extra tune-ups with the purchase of a bike. The tune-ups are surprisingly key since cables and things will stretch and settle in over the first few months, and regular maintenance is just good to do and rarely done on crappy bikes.
posted by aggyface at 10:23 AM on July 16, 2015
What does this mean? Well, you can carefully go used, or your price point starts at around $400, and 'hybrids' are the cheapest of the low-end real bike market. Something like a Trek 7.2fx, which is what I have, is a 'cheap but good' commuter-hybrid. That's a very popular model, and it's great. I'm regularly doing 30km trips with ease now (I'm overweight, out of shape, and two months ago could barely do 5!), and it's fun instead of the chore it was on my old bike (a crappy no-name folding bike). I'm 5'5" and use a 17.5 size, if that helps. (The 7.0fx is $379 US!)
...Seriously, I didn't know this was supposed to be fun!
Cyclocross is specialized, so they're almost all going to be universally more expensive since it's like buying a sports car or a jeep for offroading - it's a specialized car, not a Honda Civic.
Road bikes (let's assume my definition ranges to 'all 'real' bikes with drop bars) by their nature need to be lighter and tend to be marketed to people already in the hobby, so will be more expensive - starting in the $600-700 range.
Lastly, local bike shops are amazing. They might have used gems for cheap, they'll fit you properly onto something that works with your leg and arm length, they might have financing, and will generally include one or more extra tune-ups with the purchase of a bike. The tune-ups are surprisingly key since cables and things will stretch and settle in over the first few months, and regular maintenance is just good to do and rarely done on crappy bikes.
posted by aggyface at 10:23 AM on July 16, 2015
After reading the follow-up posts, this isn't about the bike: it's about the riding style.
I used to ride 40-46 miles, four days a week on a cheap hybrid for many years. Now I ride 20 miles a few times a week on a slightly less cheap hybrid. Never had any issues.
You should NEVER need to stand while riding: learn how to use your gears instead. For example, I am changing gears constantly to keep a high cadence, even when I am not pulling anything. Standing slows me down and makes me work much harder.
10 mile commute, 20 mile ride...either way, a $200 bike should suit you perfectly fine, though you will notice the benefits of, say, a $700 bike after commuting for a few weeks straight on a $200, but it isn't necessary. Don't get shocks. I never understood what the purpose is for those (on a hybrid) unless you are actually mountain biking--marketing gimmick perhaps? (Then again, people say hybrid bikes in general are just a marketing gimmick, although hybrids are my favorite genre of bike.) Even then, if you can't lock the shocks out, then they are useless overall.
Oh, and GET THE CORRECT FRAME SIZE! Can't stress that enough.
posted by TinWhistle at 10:40 AM on July 16, 2015
I used to ride 40-46 miles, four days a week on a cheap hybrid for many years. Now I ride 20 miles a few times a week on a slightly less cheap hybrid. Never had any issues.
You should NEVER need to stand while riding: learn how to use your gears instead. For example, I am changing gears constantly to keep a high cadence, even when I am not pulling anything. Standing slows me down and makes me work much harder.
10 mile commute, 20 mile ride...either way, a $200 bike should suit you perfectly fine, though you will notice the benefits of, say, a $700 bike after commuting for a few weeks straight on a $200, but it isn't necessary. Don't get shocks. I never understood what the purpose is for those (on a hybrid) unless you are actually mountain biking--marketing gimmick perhaps? (Then again, people say hybrid bikes in general are just a marketing gimmick, although hybrids are my favorite genre of bike.) Even then, if you can't lock the shocks out, then they are useless overall.
Oh, and GET THE CORRECT FRAME SIZE! Can't stress that enough.
posted by TinWhistle at 10:40 AM on July 16, 2015
Best answer: It sounds like the "hybrid" you were riding before was much closer to the mountain bike side than the road bike side, since it had shocks. I upgraded from a similar bike to a real hybrid (brand-new, cheapest one from a bike shop, about 300$) and the difference in pedaling difficulty/speed was amazing, but I still have the more comfortable (to me) upright riding position, all the gears I need (8), and despite the lack of shocks, can handle much rougher road (potholes, gravel, etc) than a road bike, for a much lower cost.
As suggested above, I think you should give hybrids another shot before you invest >500$ in a road bike, but there's no need to blindly trust strangers on the internet for your decision - just go to your local bike shop and ask to test-drive a few bikes (both road and hybrid) to see how they feel to you. They'll also find you the right size bike for your frame.
Re: the saddle-soreness, I doubt you'll have a problem after you adjust to 10 miles daily, but if you do, padded shorts help a lot, as do female-specific bicycle seats if you have female-sized hips.
posted by randomnity at 11:19 AM on July 16, 2015 [1 favorite]
As suggested above, I think you should give hybrids another shot before you invest >500$ in a road bike, but there's no need to blindly trust strangers on the internet for your decision - just go to your local bike shop and ask to test-drive a few bikes (both road and hybrid) to see how they feel to you. They'll also find you the right size bike for your frame.
Re: the saddle-soreness, I doubt you'll have a problem after you adjust to 10 miles daily, but if you do, padded shorts help a lot, as do female-specific bicycle seats if you have female-sized hips.
posted by randomnity at 11:19 AM on July 16, 2015 [1 favorite]
I got an entry level cyclocross bike a few years ago for about $400 through craigslist. I love it, and use it to get around Chicago regularly. It's a great base that lets you build up different abilities over time. You can have skinny road tires for more efficient summer riding, or switch them out for thicker knobbier tires and fenders for snowy winter riding. Mine also has connections for a rack, which is great for commuting, and I would definitely recommend.
As others have said, talk to a local bike shop. They may be able to point you to used bikes that will fit what you're looking for.
posted by BevosAngryGhost at 12:36 PM on July 16, 2015
As others have said, talk to a local bike shop. They may be able to point you to used bikes that will fit what you're looking for.
posted by BevosAngryGhost at 12:36 PM on July 16, 2015
I have a 10 mile commute to work and am really considering riding it daily
Just want to point out that you're talking about spending over an hour a day, probably closer to 1.5 at least, on a bike (assuming 10 mi each way). Spend your money where you spend your time. For that long of a commute, I would spend a distressing amount. (I'm considering upgrading from a 7-year-old $600 fixed Fuji for a 2.5-mi-each-way commute.)
Big chains might have financing, but you're probably better off with a 0% introductory credit card and paying it off before the intro period ends.
posted by supercres at 2:37 PM on July 16, 2015
Just want to point out that you're talking about spending over an hour a day, probably closer to 1.5 at least, on a bike (assuming 10 mi each way). Spend your money where you spend your time. For that long of a commute, I would spend a distressing amount. (I'm considering upgrading from a 7-year-old $600 fixed Fuji for a 2.5-mi-each-way commute.)
Big chains might have financing, but you're probably better off with a 0% introductory credit card and paying it off before the intro period ends.
posted by supercres at 2:37 PM on July 16, 2015
Best answer: I've been pondering your question all afternoon, and this is what I have to add:
You didn't answer about where the shock which is making you bounce was located. I suspect it is a seat suspension, as this is where a lot of lower-end hybrids try to market themselves as comfortable. I work at a bike shop and rather bouncy relative to the effort I was making. I came to realize this was due to the seatpost and the super cushy gel saddle. You want neither! This sounds counterintuitive, but the saddle is supposed to firmly support the sitz bones (part of the pelvis), not act like an easy chair.
Since we can't watch your stance on the bike, I am going to ask if you use a lot of upper body energy to ride. Do you bend at the waist and try to pump your torso as you pedal? If the bike has a front shock, that could be contributing to the bouncing.
As others have pointed out above, your legs are the source of your propulsion. Your upper body should remain as still as possible, with your elbows slightly bent and your shoulders neutral.
As far as a bike, yeah, $200 is not going to get you anything new above a department level bike, and stay well away from them. Hit up CL daily, talk to your friends who ride (such as the person who lent you this bike), and look for any area social media pages for those selling bikes. Bear in mind that any bike within your price range may need new parts like wheels or a drivetrain, effectively doubling or tripling the price.
Also, what supercres says.
posted by computech_apolloniajames at 6:14 PM on July 16, 2015
You didn't answer about where the shock which is making you bounce was located. I suspect it is a seat suspension, as this is where a lot of lower-end hybrids try to market themselves as comfortable. I work at a bike shop and rather bouncy relative to the effort I was making. I came to realize this was due to the seatpost and the super cushy gel saddle. You want neither! This sounds counterintuitive, but the saddle is supposed to firmly support the sitz bones (part of the pelvis), not act like an easy chair.
Since we can't watch your stance on the bike, I am going to ask if you use a lot of upper body energy to ride. Do you bend at the waist and try to pump your torso as you pedal? If the bike has a front shock, that could be contributing to the bouncing.
As others have pointed out above, your legs are the source of your propulsion. Your upper body should remain as still as possible, with your elbows slightly bent and your shoulders neutral.
As far as a bike, yeah, $200 is not going to get you anything new above a department level bike, and stay well away from them. Hit up CL daily, talk to your friends who ride (such as the person who lent you this bike), and look for any area social media pages for those selling bikes. Bear in mind that any bike within your price range may need new parts like wheels or a drivetrain, effectively doubling or tripling the price.
Also, what supercres says.
posted by computech_apolloniajames at 6:14 PM on July 16, 2015
It's all about sizing and keeping the bike in decent repair (lack of rust, oiled, tire pressure).
But mostly sizing. Almost all cyclists are riding bikes the wrong size and fit, throwing away all their potential power delivery.
posted by ead at 8:14 PM on July 16, 2015 [1 favorite]
But mostly sizing. Almost all cyclists are riding bikes the wrong size and fit, throwing away all their potential power delivery.
posted by ead at 8:14 PM on July 16, 2015 [1 favorite]
Best answer: I'm a super-low-end riding enthusiast. I ride about 200km a week when the weather's good, and I ride a clapped out 3-year-old cheapo mongrel bike that I bought here in Korea for about $140. It has stiff front shocks and no back ones, 1.9 inch tires, I think. I dunno what you'd even call it, in terms of bike categories.
Once I adjusted my heights and stance stuff just right (I think, as others have suggested, that's key) and got a pair of padded shorts, I haven't had any problems with discomfort or anything, even after my 3 or 4 hour weekend rides. The biggest thing that I need to keep on top of (other than taking care with the angles my knees are at) is tire pressure, because even if they get a little bit underinflated, the effort required increases radically.
But, again, I love biking, but I know just barely enough to keep myself out of trouble, for the most part.
posted by stavrosthewonderchicken at 8:58 PM on July 16, 2015
Once I adjusted my heights and stance stuff just right (I think, as others have suggested, that's key) and got a pair of padded shorts, I haven't had any problems with discomfort or anything, even after my 3 or 4 hour weekend rides. The biggest thing that I need to keep on top of (other than taking care with the angles my knees are at) is tire pressure, because even if they get a little bit underinflated, the effort required increases radically.
But, again, I love biking, but I know just barely enough to keep myself out of trouble, for the most part.
posted by stavrosthewonderchicken at 8:58 PM on July 16, 2015
I should probably add for what it's worth that I'm 50, so I do need to take some extra care not to damage myself.
posted by stavrosthewonderchicken at 9:29 PM on July 16, 2015
posted by stavrosthewonderchicken at 9:29 PM on July 16, 2015
Best answer: Just to elaborate on a few points made above:
- You definitely want to buy used, but given your inexperience you should go to a shop as Frowner suggests. Aside from the fact that you'd have a tough time evaluating the condition of a Craigslist bike, you definitely need to someone to fit you to a bike and help you find a proper saddle, etc (a poorly fitted saddle can also contribute to a sore bum).
- Nonprofit coops in particular can be great in your situation as they exist specifically to help people become cyclists and price their bikes as cheap as reasonably possible. They would be a good bet for working out a payment plan. And if they don't have what you need (some just have build-a-bike programs) they are still a good starting point for advice and may be able to connect you to someone who can help (there are lots of individuals around that would build you a good basic bike out of used parts on the cheap -- your local bike shop might be able to help here too). Here's a master list of bike coop locations in the U.S; it looks like you have at least a few in reasonable distance to you.
- Note that basic proper gear (helmet, lock, lights, repair kit) is going to run you at least another $100. But though money is tight for you, consider that a bike will save you lots too in gas/transportation costs -- as well as your chronic health long term.
posted by veery at 6:21 AM on July 17, 2015
- You definitely want to buy used, but given your inexperience you should go to a shop as Frowner suggests. Aside from the fact that you'd have a tough time evaluating the condition of a Craigslist bike, you definitely need to someone to fit you to a bike and help you find a proper saddle, etc (a poorly fitted saddle can also contribute to a sore bum).
- Nonprofit coops in particular can be great in your situation as they exist specifically to help people become cyclists and price their bikes as cheap as reasonably possible. They would be a good bet for working out a payment plan. And if they don't have what you need (some just have build-a-bike programs) they are still a good starting point for advice and may be able to connect you to someone who can help (there are lots of individuals around that would build you a good basic bike out of used parts on the cheap -- your local bike shop might be able to help here too). Here's a master list of bike coop locations in the U.S; it looks like you have at least a few in reasonable distance to you.
- Note that basic proper gear (helmet, lock, lights, repair kit) is going to run you at least another $100. But though money is tight for you, consider that a bike will save you lots too in gas/transportation costs -- as well as your chronic health long term.
posted by veery at 6:21 AM on July 17, 2015
Ack, link above should be http://www.bikecollectives.org/wiki/index.php?title=Community_Bicycle_Organizations#United_States
posted by veery at 6:31 AM on July 17, 2015
posted by veery at 6:31 AM on July 17, 2015
Best answer: On the used bike front - if you're getting a cheap enough used bike ($150 range including all fixes) it probably makes more sense to just ride the $150 bike until it dies and then replace it, rather than putting a lot of money into fixing it. That might, all around, be the cheapest way to do this. Of course, then you're bike-shopping every ten months or so.
Bike costs for me, past five years - I ride every day, some years about 10 miles a day but right now only five or six since I'm also doing gym stuff pretty seriously:
Bike: ~$650 (Jamis, pretty good fit)
Annual or bi-annual tune-ups: probably average $350/year (part replacements, mainly)
Minor bike repair crap: Probably about $100/year
Helmet and misc: Probably average about $40/year
You can save on a lot of that if you take a couple of good bike repair classes and invest in the stuff you need to tune your bike. I'm not very handy and basically prefer to hire skilled people.
Basically, a bike saves a lot of money over a car and some money over the bus, but it doesn't zero out maintenance costs at all.
posted by Frowner at 6:32 AM on July 17, 2015
Bike costs for me, past five years - I ride every day, some years about 10 miles a day but right now only five or six since I'm also doing gym stuff pretty seriously:
Bike: ~$650 (Jamis, pretty good fit)
Annual or bi-annual tune-ups: probably average $350/year (part replacements, mainly)
Minor bike repair crap: Probably about $100/year
Helmet and misc: Probably average about $40/year
You can save on a lot of that if you take a couple of good bike repair classes and invest in the stuff you need to tune your bike. I'm not very handy and basically prefer to hire skilled people.
Basically, a bike saves a lot of money over a car and some money over the bus, but it doesn't zero out maintenance costs at all.
posted by Frowner at 6:32 AM on July 17, 2015
I built my own hybrid. 1993 Specialized Hardrock hardtail, no suspension. After owning it about 10 years I threw new tires on it - skinny 1.25" tires, thinner than the typical mountain bike knobby tire but not nearly as razor-edged as a standard road bike tire. It's the perfect commuter/round town bike. It's got an old school chromoly frame, a mountain bike at heart, so it's built to handle bumps and curbs and potholes. The skinny tires are wide enough to work well on dirt or grass at need, but roll smooth and fast on concrete. Frame isn't nearly as fat as the ones they make these days - it looks like a 10 speed frame in comparison to what's rolling off the shelves now - but it has all the mount points needed to add on a rack and bottle cages and etc. necessary to keep me happy while riding around town.
My wife's street bike was a Craigslist special - an early '90s Specialized Hardrock hardtail. Why? Because my bike is rock solid even at 22 years old. Heck, ANY quality decent-brand bike that has been cared for well should be rock solid a decade or longer post-manufacture. Go used, expect to spend some cash on upgrades, and find a bike shop that will do a fit test for you along with the tune-up. Make sure you consult with your local shop BEFORE you buy so that you will have an idea what size frame you really need.
posted by caution live frogs at 3:11 PM on July 18, 2015
My wife's street bike was a Craigslist special - an early '90s Specialized Hardrock hardtail. Why? Because my bike is rock solid even at 22 years old. Heck, ANY quality decent-brand bike that has been cared for well should be rock solid a decade or longer post-manufacture. Go used, expect to spend some cash on upgrades, and find a bike shop that will do a fit test for you along with the tune-up. Make sure you consult with your local shop BEFORE you buy so that you will have an idea what size frame you really need.
posted by caution live frogs at 3:11 PM on July 18, 2015
Imagine you were invited over to a friend's house. They offer you a choice of a triangular stool or a lawn chair. The choice is yours, but you're going to be sitting in that seat for the next hour or more. Which seat would you choose?
Consider looking into used recumbent bicycles. No bike shorts, no more sore bum. There's no going back.
posted by aniola at 4:02 PM on July 22, 2015
Consider looking into used recumbent bicycles. No bike shorts, no more sore bum. There's no going back.
posted by aniola at 4:02 PM on July 22, 2015
Er, my apologies. I read your question as saying that you were willing to invest $500 in a bike. While you can get a decent used recumbent for $200, that's with months of keeping an eye on the classifieds. Recumbents can be something to keep in the mind for the future, then!
posted by aniola at 4:04 PM on July 22, 2015
posted by aniola at 4:04 PM on July 22, 2015
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A bike shop should be able to point you toward commuter or city bicycles. These should be a bit cheaper and simpler than road or cyclocross bikes, but be kind of similar. Some may have drop handlebars (road style) and some may have flat handlebars. Some may have two chainrings up front, and some might only have one - which is fine if you're not doing any serious hills.
You're probably not going to find a good bike for two hundred dollars. If you want a bike now for two hundred dollars, you're going to have two hundred dollars less to spend on something better that you will inevitably prefer. Buy it right or buy it twice.
From the right shop, you can get the right bike for about eight or nine hundred dollars. YOu can get something better for less if you buy used, but it can be difficult to know what you're getting... so paying a bit more for a reliable shop's advice and support is worthwhile here. (I've definitely gotten very decent bikes, used, for about $350... but again, it's a matter of being pretty discerning, opportunistic, and knowledgeable)
Even if you're not ready to buy from a shop, maybe visit a few and see what's available, what types of bikes appeal to you, and what you enjoy (test) riding.
There are a bunch of cheap singlespeed bicycles out in the world (<$400) that some shops carry... you save money by not paying for gears, and paying for dead-simple machines. But if you're new to cycling this might not be what you're interested in.
posted by entropone at 9:08 AM on July 16, 2015 [1 favorite]