Best Splurges in Japan
November 19, 2014 10:16 PM Subscribe
I'll be going to Japan for 3 weeks over the Christmas/New Years holidays. What are some things to see/do/eat/buy that are expensive but worth it? These need to be things I can do in either day trips or 2-day trips from Osaka. Bonus points for things that are kid-friendly.
Specific recommendations are what I'm looking for.
I know that I can have a kaiseki dinner in Kyoto, but at which restaurant? How about some high-quality fugu? (On trips to Japan I frequently end up getting tempura udon at Nakau or sushi from a kaitenzushi place. They are good, but I am looking for great). I've had Kobe beef in the past, but don't eat meat anymore. Seafood is Ok though.
I already get pretty much all my non-work clothes from Uniqlo. What are some better places to shop at?
What are neat things that I can only get in Japan? Whenever someone asks me what I want from Japan I always just say Cheeza and socks from Uniqlo, when I could be asking for cool flip books. So I obviously have no idea.
I'll be staying with my in-laws and friends for the most part, but if you tell me about some great hotels/ryokans then I'll likely be able to give at least one a try.
We've already got an overnight trip to Kanazawa planned and will probably be making a day trip to Nagoya as well. So things in those areas would be great too.
Specific recommendations are what I'm looking for.
I know that I can have a kaiseki dinner in Kyoto, but at which restaurant? How about some high-quality fugu? (On trips to Japan I frequently end up getting tempura udon at Nakau or sushi from a kaitenzushi place. They are good, but I am looking for great). I've had Kobe beef in the past, but don't eat meat anymore. Seafood is Ok though.
I already get pretty much all my non-work clothes from Uniqlo. What are some better places to shop at?
What are neat things that I can only get in Japan? Whenever someone asks me what I want from Japan I always just say Cheeza and socks from Uniqlo, when I could be asking for cool flip books. So I obviously have no idea.
I'll be staying with my in-laws and friends for the most part, but if you tell me about some great hotels/ryokans then I'll likely be able to give at least one a try.
We've already got an overnight trip to Kanazawa planned and will probably be making a day trip to Nagoya as well. So things in those areas would be great too.
Have an overnight at Mount Koya at one of the many monasteries and get some terrific vegetarian food. It's a great splurge, and some of the places are kid friendly.
That's about the only real splurge we had in Osaka - I love it as a city, even moreso than Tokyo, but there's so much fun that can be had cheaply! (number one on the list is Kaiyukan Aquarium. I am a big aquarium fan, and that place is like Mecca for aquarium fans)
posted by smoke at 1:29 AM on November 20, 2014 [5 favorites]
That's about the only real splurge we had in Osaka - I love it as a city, even moreso than Tokyo, but there's so much fun that can be had cheaply! (number one on the list is Kaiyukan Aquarium. I am a big aquarium fan, and that place is like Mecca for aquarium fans)
posted by smoke at 1:29 AM on November 20, 2014 [5 favorites]
Japanese stationery and craft goods are to die for. If you go to a branch of Maruzen, or Kinokuniya or Tokyu Hands (all to be found in Osaka) with your kids in tow, you'll all be happy for a good hour or so. They're especially great at sticker sheets (beetles! monsters! cartoon characters!) and carved stamps (those things you press into an inkpad and then stamp on paper, to make a lovely sharp detailed image). Plus they have all sorts of tiny cute things to blow your mind.
One super-cool thing I would buy at Tokyu Hands is a kintsugi set for mending broken china decoratively with gold-coloured cement. The results look amazingly classy.
posted by Grunyon at 4:49 AM on November 20, 2014 [1 favorite]
One super-cool thing I would buy at Tokyu Hands is a kintsugi set for mending broken china decoratively with gold-coloured cement. The results look amazingly classy.
posted by Grunyon at 4:49 AM on November 20, 2014 [1 favorite]
There is a large monthly antiques market at Toji (a pagoda temple) in Kyoto. I'm sure you could find something interesting there.
posted by Winnemac at 7:11 AM on November 20, 2014 [1 favorite]
posted by Winnemac at 7:11 AM on November 20, 2014 [1 favorite]
Outside Magazine recently posted an article about Japan's three best views. The author visited them all in three days. If you prefer your splurge to be an experience rather than a physical thing, this might be a good fit.
posted by workerant at 7:43 AM on November 20, 2014
posted by workerant at 7:43 AM on November 20, 2014
Starbucks, while pricey in Japan, is important because it is a place where you can
...get decaf in Japan. (Maybe not your priority, but very important to me!)
Can't speak to your goal of expensive and kid-friendly, but it certainly sounds like a fun goal to pursue!
posted by Rash at 11:17 AM on November 20, 2014
...get decaf in Japan. (Maybe not your priority, but very important to me!)
Can't speak to your goal of expensive and kid-friendly, but it certainly sounds like a fun goal to pursue!
posted by Rash at 11:17 AM on November 20, 2014
Taste jasmine umeshu (plum wine). Regular umeshu is good, but jasmine umeshu is divine. I had some at an izakaya in Shinjuku. Unfortunately, I can't remember the name of it. You may be able to find some in a specialty store (I couldn't find any when I went looking for some to take back with me), but stay away from the apricot umeshu (blech).
posted by Enchanting Grasshopper at 11:26 AM on November 20, 2014 [2 favorites]
posted by Enchanting Grasshopper at 11:26 AM on November 20, 2014 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: Nevin, I'm liking the sushi recommendation. We're going to be visiting Kenrokuen and the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art one day so perhaps we can go there for lunch. How would Omi Ichiba compare with Nishiki market in Kyoto?
We'll be going to Fukui on the way back, but that is just to visit my wife's grandparents. We'll likely be stuck at their house while we're there.
MoonOrb, I hadn't thought of Naoshima. It is definitely doable and the family suites look quite nice.
Smoke, Koyasan is a place I definitely want to go, but I don't think it'll work this trip. (My dream is to hike the Kumano Kodo to Koyasan, but I think that'll either have to wait until the kids are a bit older or we can leave them behind for a couple of days). As far as Kaiyukan is concerned, we went there last time we were all in Japan and my wife may have taken our daughter there the last times they went together. I know for sure they have already been to the Kyoto aquarium on this trip.
Grunyon, we definitely have a number of chipped dishes at home. Kintsugi could be a nice fit.
Winnemac, I go to the Toji and Kitano markets whenever I visit Japan, but I never buy anything because I can't tell if something is good or junk. I'll likely hit up the Kitano market this time around (I'll just miss the Toji one) but don't expect to pick up anything from there.
workerant, the only one of the 3 views we both haven't been to is Matsushima, but even an overnight trip there feels like rushing things.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 11:35 AM on November 20, 2014
We'll be going to Fukui on the way back, but that is just to visit my wife's grandparents. We'll likely be stuck at their house while we're there.
MoonOrb, I hadn't thought of Naoshima. It is definitely doable and the family suites look quite nice.
Smoke, Koyasan is a place I definitely want to go, but I don't think it'll work this trip. (My dream is to hike the Kumano Kodo to Koyasan, but I think that'll either have to wait until the kids are a bit older or we can leave them behind for a couple of days). As far as Kaiyukan is concerned, we went there last time we were all in Japan and my wife may have taken our daughter there the last times they went together. I know for sure they have already been to the Kyoto aquarium on this trip.
Grunyon, we definitely have a number of chipped dishes at home. Kintsugi could be a nice fit.
Winnemac, I go to the Toji and Kitano markets whenever I visit Japan, but I never buy anything because I can't tell if something is good or junk. I'll likely hit up the Kitano market this time around (I'll just miss the Toji one) but don't expect to pick up anything from there.
workerant, the only one of the 3 views we both haven't been to is Matsushima, but even an overnight trip there feels like rushing things.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 11:35 AM on November 20, 2014
Go have some high quality wagashi and tea somewhere.
posted by Blitz at 12:25 PM on November 20, 2014
posted by Blitz at 12:25 PM on November 20, 2014
>>Nevin, I'm liking the sushi recommendation. We're going to be visiting Kenrokuen and the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art one day so perhaps we can go there for lunch. How would Omi Ichiba compare with Nishiki market in Kyoto?
It's kind of the same feel as the Nishiki, but Kanazawa is the north country (ie, Hokuriku) so it will be cold and you can smell the sea.
And the fish will be much, much better (Kyoto fish after all is trucked in from Nihonkai ports like Kanazawa). It's also bigger. Omi Ichiba is about 2/3 of the way from the art museum to Kanazawa Station. You might want to stop at Korinbo at some point (there aren't many restaurants up at Kenrokuen or the art gallery). Actually, as I recall, there is a pedestrian shopping street that stretches between Korinbo/Katamachi and the art gallery area, and there are a ton of shops and restaurants.
>>We'll be going to Fukui on the way back, but that is just to visit my wife's grandparents. We'll likely be stuck at their house while we're there.
Cool. Whereabouts in Fukui? Fukui City proper? My SIL lives in near Mikuni, about a 20 minute ride outside of town. There is a ton of things to do (and eat!)
posted by Nevin at 1:01 PM on November 20, 2014
It's kind of the same feel as the Nishiki, but Kanazawa is the north country (ie, Hokuriku) so it will be cold and you can smell the sea.
And the fish will be much, much better (Kyoto fish after all is trucked in from Nihonkai ports like Kanazawa). It's also bigger. Omi Ichiba is about 2/3 of the way from the art museum to Kanazawa Station. You might want to stop at Korinbo at some point (there aren't many restaurants up at Kenrokuen or the art gallery). Actually, as I recall, there is a pedestrian shopping street that stretches between Korinbo/Katamachi and the art gallery area, and there are a ton of shops and restaurants.
>>We'll be going to Fukui on the way back, but that is just to visit my wife's grandparents. We'll likely be stuck at their house while we're there.
Cool. Whereabouts in Fukui? Fukui City proper? My SIL lives in near Mikuni, about a 20 minute ride outside of town. There is a ton of things to do (and eat!)
posted by Nevin at 1:01 PM on November 20, 2014
Fellow mefite woodblock100, an artisan who makes traditional woodblock prints, had just opened a physical shop in Asakusa, in Tokyo. They offer "print parties" (which are totally kid friendly) where you get to make your own prints.
That's number one on my list for when I next make it to Japan.
posted by ocherdraco at 3:30 PM on November 20, 2014
That's number one on my list for when I next make it to Japan.
posted by ocherdraco at 3:30 PM on November 20, 2014
At least, kid friendly for older kids; I'm not sure what ages you're working with.
posted by ocherdraco at 3:33 PM on November 20, 2014
posted by ocherdraco at 3:33 PM on November 20, 2014
Response by poster: Cool. Whereabouts in Fukui? Fukui City proper? My SIL lives in near Mikuni, about a 20 minute ride outside of town. There is a ton of things to do (and eat!)
They are in Wakasa, which is about equidistant from Obama and Mihama, but inland, so pretty much the middle of nowhere.
ocherdraco, we're skipping Tokyo this time around but the kids are too young right now for a print party anyway (3 & 0.5). When they're a bit older we'll definitely do a proper Tokyo trip (Ghibli muesuem. Disneyland/sea, Sanrio Puroland, ...) and a print party may be doable then.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 4:54 PM on November 20, 2014
They are in Wakasa, which is about equidistant from Obama and Mihama, but inland, so pretty much the middle of nowhere.
ocherdraco, we're skipping Tokyo this time around but the kids are too young right now for a print party anyway (3 & 0.5). When they're a bit older we'll definitely do a proper Tokyo trip (Ghibli muesuem. Disneyland/sea, Sanrio Puroland, ...) and a print party may be doable then.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 4:54 PM on November 20, 2014
Hey I know and love Wakasa (used to be called Kaminaka). I spend about three months a year in Tsuruga, and I go there all the time to Plant-2. We also go to the municipal onsen bath in Obama. If you have access to a car, there is an excellent aquarium near Sekumi.
posted by Nevin at 5:00 PM on November 20, 2014
posted by Nevin at 5:00 PM on November 20, 2014
IF you wear glasses:
This is the opposite of expensive, but I always recommend that people get glasses in Japan if they can. Bring your own prescription (from what I understand, it's weakened in Japan sometimes) and get yourself a pair of interesting glasses.
They have glasses for the computer, fishing glasses, pollen glasses, sport glasses, smart glasses (that flex and move), and all sorts of varieties. The costs is between 5,000 yen - 15,000 yen for most pairs. They're stylish, of good quality, and there are lots of choices.
Try J!NS, Zoff, or other national chains.
posted by Ms. Moonlight at 12:15 PM on November 22, 2014
This is the opposite of expensive, but I always recommend that people get glasses in Japan if they can. Bring your own prescription (from what I understand, it's weakened in Japan sometimes) and get yourself a pair of interesting glasses.
They have glasses for the computer, fishing glasses, pollen glasses, sport glasses, smart glasses (that flex and move), and all sorts of varieties. The costs is between 5,000 yen - 15,000 yen for most pairs. They're stylish, of good quality, and there are lots of choices.
Try J!NS, Zoff, or other national chains.
posted by Ms. Moonlight at 12:15 PM on November 22, 2014
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It's pretty interesting. Nagoya also has a cool railway museum.
There's a steam locomotive museum near Kyoto Station.
I used to work in Kanazawa and go there all the time. For food, the one place I would recommend is Omi Ichiba.
It's a large public market halfway between Kanazawa Station and the main Korinbo shopping district.
It's full of vegetable stalls and all sorts of cool stuff. While it is definitely a tourist attraction, it is also a focal point for the community. Winter is a great time because that's when the region has some of the best fish, including crab.
Omi Ichiba has been renovated in recent years, and there are a ton of new restaurants on a mezzanine section on the north side of the market (JR station is to the north).
We usually go to one revolving sushi place in particular. It is awesome. Ultra-fresh, local fish, and very cheap. You cannot get better fish anywhere in Japan, not even Tsukiji. This is the best. It's just to the right once you go inside the entrance here.
The fish to try of course is buri (yellowtail), which is a winter fish. Aji (horse mackerel) is also a local fish, as is aori ika (a kind of cuttlefish), and of course snowcrab (zuwai-gani).
Kanazawa of course will have its own version of kaiseki-ryori called Kaga-ryori.
Personally, Ishikawa is my favourite place in Japan after Fukui. While Fukui is truly where I feel the most comfortable, Kanazawa has some truly refined culture and cuisine. It's a wonderful place.
Anyway, across the street (behind the streetview image above) is a Starbucks and a department store with (I think) a Muji on the second floor. Muji is a good alternative to Uniqlo.
Starbucks, while pricey in Japan, is important because it is a place where you can take a break with small kids.
Up the street in Korinbo there are a couple of places to catch a break with your kids: the 109 department store is home to a Saizeriya.
If I am out and about with the kids I generally plan to eat at Saizeriya. It's cheap, easy-to-order "Italian" food (the thin-crust pizzas are really good), and the kids love it because it's refillable drinks. So it is a low-stress, low-cost place to decompress when travelling with kids.
Across the street is the Daiwa department store. The top floor is home to a bookstore.
I'm not going to lie: the only thing I buy in Japan is booze and books. I'm not interested in anything else (except perhaps toys, and I buy those at Joshin or wherever).
But department store bookstores are once again a good place to go and decompress, and the one on the top floor of Daiwa is a good one.
Even if your kids don't read Japanese they'll like the books there. Japanese books for kids are pretty awesome.
In terms of booze, I like microbrew sake. Ishikawa has a lot of good ones, and I would recommend junmai-shu (unpasteurized sake). Tengu-mai (Dancing Demon) is a good local sake. If you can find any Fukui sake in Kanazawa, try those.
posted by Nevin at 11:03 PM on November 19, 2014 [3 favorites]