Makeup for long days
October 9, 2014 9:44 AM   Subscribe

How do I touch up makeup? I've been experimenting with wearing make-up more regularly and I've got some morning routines down, but I need to know how to do a midday touchup for dry skin.

I typically do basic eye shadow (2 colors if i feel motivated), mascara, and lipstick. My face has spotchy red cheeks so I've started adding some tinted moisturizer or foundation (usually mixed with moisturizer), or powder or bb or cc cream or some such to the mix. I have many different products and am trying them mixed with or on top of differnt moisturizers, but no matter what i do, it seems that i will need to touch up mid-day to avoid a flakey look on my dry cheeks, chin, and the area in between my eyebrows. How do I do this without having to wash and reapply? I try not to wear much product, I always moisturize, and I've always had dry skin (like during puberty i used to slather baby oil on my face before bed time dry). I also a lot so I'm out of the house 10-12 hours continuously, regularly. How do I get rid of mid-day dryness and keep a little coverage on the dry, red areas? I have all the products, so I'm not looking for product reccommendation, but more how to use it for a midday- touchup. I find makeup made for all-day or extended wear makes my face a sandy desert in 5 minutes so that doesn't seem to be an option for me. Also, hoping to keep this process to 2-3 minutes if possible.
posted by WeekendJen to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (20 answers total) 11 users marked this as a favorite
 
You might want to consider a moisturizing foundation.

That will keep you moist and not ashy all day.

You may also want a very rich moisturizing cream under your foundation.
posted by Ruthless Bunny at 9:47 AM on October 9, 2014


Mist your face Evian facial water spray or similar. It's PH-balanced so it makes you feel quite moisturized, yet it doesn't add oil or disturb your makeup. The key is to hold it farther away from the face and spray once, so you don't douse yourself with water. Takes just a few seconds, no mirror required!
posted by rada at 9:51 AM on October 9, 2014 [2 favorites]


I have a rosewater spray (purchased at Whole Foods, alcohol-free) that is really great for a midday touch-up to make you look more dewy. It also feels awesome.

But really, most of the things you can do to help have more to do with skincare routine than makeup. As a fellow sufferer of dry skin, I reccommend looking into the oil cleansing method (reddit r/skincare addiction is a great resource) and using an intensive moisturizing cream with hyaluronic acid in it, such as Cerave.
posted by sparringnarwhal at 9:54 AM on October 9, 2014 [3 favorites]


Not a make up recommendation as such, but have you tried exfoliating regularly? I have dry cheeks, but find they get a lot less flaky over the day if I'm exfoliating regularly - I use a muslin cloth along with a moisturising cream cleanser like this one. Then pat dry with towel, moisturise generously, let it sink in for 10 mins then apply make up. Worth a try maybe?
posted by amerrydance at 9:56 AM on October 9, 2014 [2 favorites]


Do you use primer? When I started using foundation primer, it was like night and day.
posted by KathrynT at 9:57 AM on October 9, 2014 [3 favorites]


Sometimes, what seems like "dry skin" isn't dry skin. If your flakes are due to seborrhoeic dermatitis, moisturizer will not help. What led me to suggest this is that you mentioned you get the flakey skin between your eyebrows; this is a classic location of seborrhoeic dermatitis. You may want to visit a dermatologist.
posted by girl flaneur at 10:21 AM on October 9, 2014 [4 favorites]


Nthing dermatologist, and I also suggest you wait ten minutes for the moisturizer to absorb before applying makeup.

I have more experience with touching up my own oilslick skin, but you might try blotting with a single ply of a tissue and retouching with a very moisturizing BB cream.

skin conditions can masquerade as ordinary problems though, so I think investigating the root cause could be more fruitful than perfecting the touch-up.
posted by tel3path at 10:28 AM on October 9, 2014


I also have dry skin and I also like to wear foundation. This is what I do:

1. Exfoliate regularly. I use Paula's Choice 8% AHA Gel which helps a lot.

2. I use a really good sunscreen that's very moisturizing. I really like Bioderma's Photoderm susncreen.

3. A primer is also a really good base. Hourglass' Veil Mineral Primer is really good for smoothing out the dry spots.

4. I try to use a foundation that's good for dry skin. YSL's Le Teint Touche Eclat Foundation is really good!

5. A setting spray helps also. I like Urban Decay's Chill Setting Spray.
posted by cyml at 10:30 AM on October 9, 2014 [1 favorite]


How do I do this without having to wash and reapply?

In my experience, if you put powder on in the morning and then try to moisturize in the afternoon, the results will be Very Bad. So I suggest that in the morning of long days, you apply one of your more liquidy base coat options - tinted moisturizer, bb/cc cream, etc. - and put a colorless moisturizer and powder in your bag. In the afternoon, rub in a bit of the moisturizer and brush on some powder to even out your skin tone.
posted by schroedingersgirl at 10:38 AM on October 9, 2014


I have similar skin. My routine is wash my face with gentle soap, use a chemical exfoliant (I use the reddit/skincare addiction one two of Ponds pads plus Cerave lotion). Then I use a primer underneath my tinted moisturizer and other makeup. If I skip the skincare steps beforehand, I get the flakey bits you are talking about. Even if I'm not wearing makeup, I do the skincare part of my routine twice a day.
posted by Nimmie Amee at 10:49 AM on October 9, 2014


First, I think most of your problems may be solved by prepping the skin better by doing separate exfoliating and moisturizing steps. I love this exfoliator and it doesn't trigger my sensitive, roseaca-ey skin. It's pricey, but a little goes a long way and the bottle lasts forever.

Then, moisturize and let the moisturizer absorb before putting on the rest of your makeup. I usually floss/brush and fix my hair while letting the moisturizer absorb. Waiting at this step is critical for me.

Many people swear by a primer to make the skin smooth and it also helps the makeup to stay on. I like Smashbox's Photo Finish primers as they don't roll. This stuff banishes flaky, uneven skin and gives make-up a very good layer to build on.

I also like long-wearing foundations as they cover redness and stay well. I apply with a foundation brush to get a very thin, even layer. I am not a huge fan of BB and CC creams or tinted moisturizers as they usually wear off much faster or slip off (probably because they're trying to combo moisturizer with coverage). I get much better moisturizing by not going for combo products and doing two separate steps.

Then set your makeup with powder. I like HD powder as it's very finely milled and doesn't leave the skin looking like it's got a second, thick layer of makeup on it.

I very rarely have to touch up when I do this routine. I may just blot my skin with these if it's hot or I'm extra oily or I touch up with a very light powdering.

If I know I'm going to have a very long day and need everything to stay perfectly with no touch-ups, I will use a setting spray like the Urban Decay one listed above or the quite good, much cheaper knock-off by NYX.
posted by quince at 11:29 AM on October 9, 2014 [1 favorite]


Are you using an exfoliant at night? A lot of the flaking problem is most likely tied to your skincare not your makeup. Exfoliants will help a lot with the flaking & will help make the moisturiser more effective. I am a big fan of chemical exfoliants and if you don't have any other skin problems but flaking you would probably want an AHA of some sort, I am a big Paulas Choice fan, mainly because they explain the science behind their ingredients and they will take returns for if an item doesn't work for you no fuss.

The reddit Nimmie Amee mentioned above is super helpful at working helping you work out what is best for your skin and offer a huge range of price points.
posted by wwax at 11:52 AM on October 9, 2014


If you have problem skin, I would stay away from the long-wearing foundations. A make up setting spray works well to both set and refresh makeup. I like this one from Make Up For Ever.
posted by nubianinthedesert at 2:48 PM on October 9, 2014


Yeah, you need to exfoliate. That will solve the flake problem (that moisturizer seems to solve by gluing the dead skin back down to your face).
posted by moxiedoll at 5:19 PM on October 9, 2014


You want the 'Wayne Goss method' of applying foundation, ie., first powder, then foundation.
posted by A Terrible Llama at 5:25 PM on October 9, 2014


nthing dermatologists and exfoliation for the long-term. nthing also revised prep before applying foundation or bb cream (be it light exfoliation during cleansing, to introducing primer after moisturiser before powder/foundation).

other long-term makeup solutions (not to be confused with dermatological solutions like even regular facials and exfoliation and medication): exploring products with different textures (likely recommendation: something with more slip like silicone - idk about western makeup, but asian makeup face powders now have those where the molecules are silicone-coated or something like that - so it will not 'settle' into your dry skin + exploring different application techniques (as a fellow dry skin person, I generally recommend kabuki brushes over pads to apply powder if that's your first layer of foundation) + revising your general application steps.

short-term solution: the flakiness can be fixed without washing off everything and then reapplying - this will likely make things worse in the long run in terms of hydration, skin clarity and evenness. you'll need a facial mist spray (some have been recommended here, but honestly if you can find japanese and korean ones, i recommend those over european solutions. but even a rosewater spray is fine, esp if you have no sensitivity to it) and facial blotters. Blot, then mist, then blot, then mist again, and then blot lightly, and pat your skin lightly, waiting for the mist to be absorbed. on that newly hydrated skin, you can lightly reapply moisturiser and powder/foundation (enough to blend well with the surrounding unproblematic area).

If you still feel you need to take it all off anyway, i would not recommend washing it off with the usual cleanser. my rec is to use a remover+moisturiser combo like the newly available 'cleansing waters'. It's the asters in them that removes the makeup, and it will help to hydrate as well.
posted by cendawanita at 9:41 PM on October 9, 2014


Just want to add, to my second last paragraph: my final finishing move after foundation + powder both in the morning and on reapplication is to use my palms. Lightly settle your palms over your skin, and pat your skin with your palms. The gentle touch and warmth helps to blend the makeup even more into the dry skin and helps it look more natural.
posted by cendawanita at 9:49 PM on October 9, 2014


I have skin like yours, and I've found the most effective anti-flake measure is to use Retin-A (tretinoin) at night.

Paula Begoun says that what tretinoin really does is tell the skin to behave more normally, which in our case means to retain more water, and I've found that to be correct. One of her articles on tretinoin is here, for example.

To be sure, exfoliation can help (as everyone above noted), but having used both, independently and together, as full-on measures to address my skin, I still found Retin A to be several times more effective. I also find that I have to be very wary of not exfoliating more than once a week or so, as well as wary of the strength of the exfoliant and careful about exfoliating near any of the nights I apply Retin A, as my skin can quickly get irritated, which only makes the flaking worse....

Even so, adjusting to Retin A as a dry-skinned person wasn't that hard. Though there were certainly a few bad days, I really had no adverse or extreme reactions. But I was also careful to put a tiny amount on only a few times a week, always *over* moisturizer, and sometimes with moisture on top, too.

I've now been using tretinoin for four or five years, and I can apply it a lot less carefully every other night. It's really the best thing I've ever done for my skin.
posted by Violet Blue at 12:32 AM on October 10, 2014


A lot of long lasting make up is designed for more oily skins so read skin type recommendations very carefully. As others have noted you may need to modify your skin care regime. In the short term however some other thoughts.

If your skin is dry I am not clear why you need to use powder. Stick to all cream/liquid products. That means it's a lot easier to touch up things.

But also consider adding a small bottle of some kind of mild micellar water/lotion with cotton to your make up bag and then you can gently remove your foundation to give you a nice, clean surface to reapply. You can leave your eye make up intact.

Finally, if you do think it might be seborrhoeic dermatitis, I've had good results with using my dandruff shampoo on my eyebrows and face. Clearly, I am not a dermatologist and this is not recommended use of these products but it worked for me.
posted by koahiatamadl at 1:24 PM on October 11, 2014


Response by poster: UPDATE!

So here is what seems to be working now:

I was using an Alpha Hydrox brank 10% AHA gel about once or twice a week at night, and i started using it nightly.

I oil cleanse and have for a few months. When I started oil cleansing, I noticed that my dryness issues improved, but did not go away, but noticing the improvement, I started using very little moisturizer thinking i didn't want to "overdo" it.

After watching some videos of people putting moisturizer on their face (like the GOSS technique) I realized that people use what I would consider a huge glob of moisturizer.

So, I started using a huge glob of moisturizer and letting it "sink in" for a few minutes before applying foundation.

This leaves me primed pretty well and the foundation goes on much nice, don't have to "pat" it in for 10 mins.

and then for a refresher i use either the clinique moisture surge spray or some kind of spray water like the evian one.

I thought using AHA every day and SO MUCH MOISTURIZER would burn my skin off and replace it with a film of product, but it actually seems to work very nicely.
posted by WeekendJen at 6:32 AM on October 13, 2014 [1 favorite]


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