Used car price weirdly low -- what to look/ask for?
October 28, 2013 4:07 PM Subscribe
I'm in the market for a used car, and I've found one that looks great (on paper). I have not seen it in person yet. It's being sold by a new/used car dealership that seems to have positive reviews (or at least, no negative reviews that I can find). The only thing is, the asking price appears to be too low, based on what I'm finding online, by something like $2,000-3,000. Carfax report comes up clean except for a fender bender, and the mileage is kind of high (190k for a 2005 car). I plan to check it out in person and ask questions about it, but (1) what should I be looking for -- especially non-obvious things? and (2) what are some good questions to ask about it? Also: if the car is in decent condition, should I try to haggle, or just take the car at the listed price?
190K is crazy high for a 7-8 year old car. Also depending on the make and model, that mileage is getting out of the range where it will be attractive to buyers.
I agree with taking it to your mechanic, but at that mileage I'm not sure they'll tell you much beyond "look dude it has 190K miles on it, so all bets are off." Which is what a mechanic told me when I brought in a 15 year old Toyota with 160K miles on it.
Was it formerly part of a rental fleet or something? How many owners has it had?
With that mileage, you're going to want to ask about maintenance records. Has the owner been driving it into the ground, or is she/he going in for the scheduled service at each milestone?
posted by Sara C. at 4:40 PM on October 28, 2013 [2 favorites]
I agree with taking it to your mechanic, but at that mileage I'm not sure they'll tell you much beyond "look dude it has 190K miles on it, so all bets are off." Which is what a mechanic told me when I brought in a 15 year old Toyota with 160K miles on it.
Was it formerly part of a rental fleet or something? How many owners has it had?
With that mileage, you're going to want to ask about maintenance records. Has the owner been driving it into the ground, or is she/he going in for the scheduled service at each milestone?
posted by Sara C. at 4:40 PM on October 28, 2013 [2 favorites]
Everything is selling at the price it is for a reason. Generally when i see something for an abnormally low price like this, i tend to assume one of three things.
A. I'm not getting all the information. If this is obviously not the case skip to B and C
B. The seller is misinformed as to the value of the object
C. The seller is in a situation in which the amount of potential proffit/cost recovery they would see from selling it at full market value is less important to them than getting some percentage of the monetary value immediately.
I would say that at a dealership, B and C aren't even options. That's private party sale/thrift shop/etc possibilities. The dealership is like the house at a casino, they always at least break even. And the only time they lose money is when they're getting it back somewhere else(like a buy here/pay here where they give you a seemingly great deal but fuck you on the loan and pocket that).
Personally, i would be so incredibly suspicious that this car was flood damaged, someone died and rotted in it and the new seats were pulled from a junkyard for the same model, or it had some kind of "block is cracked and jb welded back together" type of bullshit going on.
Not even sure how i would get over that feeling even if i had a good inspection from a trusted mechanic saying "well, it was driven more than average but it looks pretty good". I'd be convinced there was some fucking gremlin deep within it of problem that was going to bite me in the ass.
The only thing i can think of is maybe they got it insanely cheap on a trade in and are now trying to dump their inventory by the end of the year?
On preview i'll also second sarac in the fact that 190k can be a lot, even a death knell amount if it wasn't meticulously maintained even if it's cosmetically great. My parents car for instance has 205k or so on it and still gets driven a lot but will probably run for another 100-150k miles easily. I've seen other cars with 160k that were dying because people are stupid and don't take care of things.
posted by emptythought at 4:42 PM on October 28, 2013 [1 favorite]
A. I'm not getting all the information. If this is obviously not the case skip to B and C
B. The seller is misinformed as to the value of the object
C. The seller is in a situation in which the amount of potential proffit/cost recovery they would see from selling it at full market value is less important to them than getting some percentage of the monetary value immediately.
I would say that at a dealership, B and C aren't even options. That's private party sale/thrift shop/etc possibilities. The dealership is like the house at a casino, they always at least break even. And the only time they lose money is when they're getting it back somewhere else(like a buy here/pay here where they give you a seemingly great deal but fuck you on the loan and pocket that).
Personally, i would be so incredibly suspicious that this car was flood damaged, someone died and rotted in it and the new seats were pulled from a junkyard for the same model, or it had some kind of "block is cracked and jb welded back together" type of bullshit going on.
Not even sure how i would get over that feeling even if i had a good inspection from a trusted mechanic saying "well, it was driven more than average but it looks pretty good". I'd be convinced there was some fucking gremlin deep within it of problem that was going to bite me in the ass.
The only thing i can think of is maybe they got it insanely cheap on a trade in and are now trying to dump their inventory by the end of the year?
On preview i'll also second sarac in the fact that 190k can be a lot, even a death knell amount if it wasn't meticulously maintained even if it's cosmetically great. My parents car for instance has 205k or so on it and still gets driven a lot but will probably run for another 100-150k miles easily. I've seen other cars with 160k that were dying because people are stupid and don't take care of things.
posted by emptythought at 4:42 PM on October 28, 2013 [1 favorite]
I agree that 190 is pretty high for a 7-8 year old car, which is likely why it's marked lower.
The mileage may not be a terrible thing though, really depending on the make and model. 190k on a focus is a lot different than 190k on a camry.
I agree you should ask for complete maintenance records and have your own mechanic look at it.
Always haggle, but for very low-priced used cars there is often not a ton of room.
posted by Lutoslawski at 4:43 PM on October 28, 2013
The mileage may not be a terrible thing though, really depending on the make and model. 190k on a focus is a lot different than 190k on a camry.
I agree you should ask for complete maintenance records and have your own mechanic look at it.
Always haggle, but for very low-priced used cars there is often not a ton of room.
posted by Lutoslawski at 4:43 PM on October 28, 2013
I am commenting because you mention 190k as "kind of high" and I honestly can't tell if you're underplayed that as a joke. Very few cars survive that long without significant and expensive repairs. The people I know who drive cars like this pay only a few hundred dollars for them and plan to drive them into the ground before picking up another junker. Could you afford something like a $3000 transmission repair two months from now on this car? Would it be cheaper to just get a lower mileage car in the first place?
Most used cars go over a huge value drop at 100k. I imagine there's a similar very steep drop off at 200k.
posted by Gable Oak at 4:43 PM on October 28, 2013 [2 favorites]
Most used cars go over a huge value drop at 100k. I imagine there's a similar very steep drop off at 200k.
posted by Gable Oak at 4:43 PM on October 28, 2013 [2 favorites]
Cars measure their age in miles, not years. There's no big catch here, the dealership is telling you right up front what is wrong with the car: It has 190k miles, and is just eight years old. Does that mean it's in bad shape? Not necessarily. But an average car travels 10,000-12,000 miles per year, so a 2005 model should have 80,000-96,000 miles on it. Yours has 100,000 more than that. It's old, even if it's new, and like people, things wear out and break more easily as they get older.
posted by NotMyselfRightNow at 4:45 PM on October 28, 2013 [1 favorite]
posted by NotMyselfRightNow at 4:45 PM on October 28, 2013 [1 favorite]
If you live in North America, you ought to check the NHTSA recall database for vehicle recalls, and confirm that the VIN number of the vehicle has had all recall repairs performed. If you live in an area where smog control inspections are required, you might want to be concerned about emissions equipment, and the condition of the vehicle's engine - getting repairs to pass emissions, or a waiver for high mileage, can be a pain, if not impossible, in many jurisdictions.
190K on a 2005 car is not only high mileage, it's generally expensively high mileage. That's about the point where suspension components, transmission, cooling system, and air conditioning can all begin to show their age and wear. And as a 9 year old car, all rubber components, like cooling system hoses, brake hoses, belts, body seals. vibration dampners, etc. can be expected to show signs of oxidation/checking/leakage. If the brake fluid hasn't been regularly changed, disc calipers and/or wheel cylinders may be need to be replaced soon. Etc., etc.
But you know what? Sometimes, a high miler shows up on a car lot that has been really well maintained, because its former owner drove it constantly, liked the car, and kept it up, beyond pure economic necessity, and the demands of the maintenance schedule in the owners manual. And it was traded in because of a change in life circumstance (previous owner was having twins, was moving to China for work, etc.) It may have great tires, new brakes, a new radiator and water pump, new struts and shocks, and good paint and interior. But at 190K miles, the dealership is going to have a hard time talking anybody with any sense into seeing all that, or even moving it at an inter-dealer auction, and they know it. So they mark its price to mileage, and let it go as a loss leader. If you really know cars, and can spot one of these kind of edge case vehicles, you can sometimes do really well.
Question is, "Do you feel lucky?" Or, actually, "Do you really know cars?"
posted by paulsc at 4:56 PM on October 28, 2013
190K on a 2005 car is not only high mileage, it's generally expensively high mileage. That's about the point where suspension components, transmission, cooling system, and air conditioning can all begin to show their age and wear. And as a 9 year old car, all rubber components, like cooling system hoses, brake hoses, belts, body seals. vibration dampners, etc. can be expected to show signs of oxidation/checking/leakage. If the brake fluid hasn't been regularly changed, disc calipers and/or wheel cylinders may be need to be replaced soon. Etc., etc.
But you know what? Sometimes, a high miler shows up on a car lot that has been really well maintained, because its former owner drove it constantly, liked the car, and kept it up, beyond pure economic necessity, and the demands of the maintenance schedule in the owners manual. And it was traded in because of a change in life circumstance (previous owner was having twins, was moving to China for work, etc.) It may have great tires, new brakes, a new radiator and water pump, new struts and shocks, and good paint and interior. But at 190K miles, the dealership is going to have a hard time talking anybody with any sense into seeing all that, or even moving it at an inter-dealer auction, and they know it. So they mark its price to mileage, and let it go as a loss leader. If you really know cars, and can spot one of these kind of edge case vehicles, you can sometimes do really well.
Question is, "Do you feel lucky?" Or, actually, "Do you really know cars?"
posted by paulsc at 4:56 PM on October 28, 2013
Response by poster: Great input, guys, thank you and please keep it coming if so inclined. I guess 190k is high. I was thinking it wasn't unreasonable for an 8-year-old car, but I was going by my present car, a 2001 model I had misremembered as being over 240k (it is actually 160).
Also -- the automobile under consideration is a GMC Yukon Denali. The Internet seems to like the reliability and durability of this model, but if anyone has any experiences with Yukons I would love to hear them.
I'm afraid I have zero experience with buying used cars from a dealership. If I want to get the car checked out by a mechanic (and it sounds like I definitely ought to), how exactly does that work? The dealer will let me drive it off the lot for hours/days?
posted by Mo' Money Moe Bandy at 5:22 PM on October 28, 2013
Also -- the automobile under consideration is a GMC Yukon Denali. The Internet seems to like the reliability and durability of this model, but if anyone has any experiences with Yukons I would love to hear them.
I'm afraid I have zero experience with buying used cars from a dealership. If I want to get the car checked out by a mechanic (and it sounds like I definitely ought to), how exactly does that work? The dealer will let me drive it off the lot for hours/days?
posted by Mo' Money Moe Bandy at 5:22 PM on October 28, 2013
I would only consider a 2005 with 190,000 miles on it if it were a Volvo, a Toyota, or a Honda. And even then only if the price was extremely right AND I had reason to believe the car was impeccably maintained by a single owner who was NOT a rental car company.
posted by Sara C. at 5:30 PM on October 28, 2013 [3 favorites]
posted by Sara C. at 5:30 PM on October 28, 2013 [3 favorites]
Re getting it checked by a mechanic, I did that as part of the test drive. I think the salesman thought it was a little eccentric, but it was an old car with high miles that they wanted a princely sum for. Who cares what that guy thinks of me?
It shouldn't take more than 15 minutes for a mechanic to take a quick look at it and tell you "run" or "I dunno it looks ok, but at 190K it's a ticking time bomb". Which is pretty much a best case scenario.
posted by Sara C. at 5:32 PM on October 28, 2013
It shouldn't take more than 15 minutes for a mechanic to take a quick look at it and tell you "run" or "I dunno it looks ok, but at 190K it's a ticking time bomb". Which is pretty much a best case scenario.
posted by Sara C. at 5:32 PM on October 28, 2013
I'll also say (ugh sorry for monopolizing) that, when I was in the situation of needing to buy a beater car for as cheap as possible, it occurred to me after some time spent looking that there are a LOT of cars out there, and it's easier to look for reasons NOT to buy a given car than reasons in favor. Since you're only buying one car, you hold out for the car that has the fewest reasons not to buy it.
This car has a lot of reasons not to buy.
posted by Sara C. at 5:41 PM on October 28, 2013 [1 favorite]
This car has a lot of reasons not to buy.
posted by Sara C. at 5:41 PM on October 28, 2013 [1 favorite]
Whoa, you've never bought a used car at a lot, misremember your current ride's mileage by, oh, 80k miles, and you are buying an 8 year old Yukon Denali?
Do you need a heavy duty truck with a luxury trim package? It's a strange thing to buy as a used beater. With that mileage I'm betting it was in a limo fleet, which on the bright side means regular maintenance. On the bad side, thousands of short trips mean those aren't gentle highway miles.
But this is no vehicle for most people to buy as a beater. It was an expensive vehicle when new, by the way.
It's a great heavy duty vehicle that could give you significantly more service, theoretically, but as everyone is saying very likely with major maintenance repairs that will quickly make whatever savings you might be seeing seem small.
No little old ladies drive Yukon Denalis to church once a week and put mileage like that on them except maybe in Alaska or Montana.
Also, your gas mileage is gonna suuuuuuuuuuuck.
posted by spitbull at 5:56 PM on October 28, 2013 [4 favorites]
Do you need a heavy duty truck with a luxury trim package? It's a strange thing to buy as a used beater. With that mileage I'm betting it was in a limo fleet, which on the bright side means regular maintenance. On the bad side, thousands of short trips mean those aren't gentle highway miles.
But this is no vehicle for most people to buy as a beater. It was an expensive vehicle when new, by the way.
It's a great heavy duty vehicle that could give you significantly more service, theoretically, but as everyone is saying very likely with major maintenance repairs that will quickly make whatever savings you might be seeing seem small.
No little old ladies drive Yukon Denalis to church once a week and put mileage like that on them except maybe in Alaska or Montana.
Also, your gas mileage is gonna suuuuuuuuuuuck.
posted by spitbull at 5:56 PM on October 28, 2013 [4 favorites]
Yes, yes, yes. Honda, Volvo, Toyota. Not GMC. And I'd be iffy about even one of those with that many miles at that age, I'd be more inclined to buy one with the same number of miles that was twice as old, because vehicles that are used hard die young. I've heard of people getting cars from manufacturers known for their longevity to 300k+, but you'd probably be better off buying a lottery ticket than expecting that to happen here.
posted by Sequence at 8:16 PM on October 28, 2013
posted by Sequence at 8:16 PM on October 28, 2013
I would never buy an American car with that many miles. Maybe a Toyota or Honda, but never an American car. Especially an SUV.
posted by Slinga at 8:41 PM on October 28, 2013 [4 favorites]
posted by Slinga at 8:41 PM on October 28, 2013 [4 favorites]
A Yukon Denali is a good truck, but not cheap to operate, or repair. A set of tires can easily run $800, and you'll be lucky to go 40K on a set. A brake job, if you just need new rotors, drums, pads and linings may be as much as $300, and you'll probably be doing major brake service every 30K, if not sooner (heavy trucks eat brakes). Suspension parts are expensive. And because there aren't as many of those things on the road as a there are smaller cars and trucks, there aren't as many aftermarket suppliers making and stocking parts for them, so aftermarket competition doesn't bring down parts parts prices as much as it does on more popular models. There's also a smaller population of those vehicles in junkyards, from which you could get used parts. And there was a pretty extensive options list on the Denali model, which, if the truck is optioned way up, means there is a lot of little stuff that can go wrong, and is a pain to troubleshoot and fix. For example, there was a 2 zone air conditioning option that provided different temperature air conditioning to the back seat passengers, than the front. Lotsa luck getting that to work right, if it goes bad.
Moreover, if you're buying the work, rather than doing it yourself, I think you'll find you don't have as wide a selection of repair places, as you might with a normal car, either. Still, as I say, you really have to know what you're buying, to buy right. I suspect it's being discounted not only because of the miles, but because that kind of vehicle isn't desirable as a beater, or a work truck, and people who do want that sort of vehicle are going to buy or lease a lot newer model.
posted by paulsc at 9:43 PM on October 28, 2013
Moreover, if you're buying the work, rather than doing it yourself, I think you'll find you don't have as wide a selection of repair places, as you might with a normal car, either. Still, as I say, you really have to know what you're buying, to buy right. I suspect it's being discounted not only because of the miles, but because that kind of vehicle isn't desirable as a beater, or a work truck, and people who do want that sort of vehicle are going to buy or lease a lot newer model.
posted by paulsc at 9:43 PM on October 28, 2013
The notion that American cars are less reliable than Toyota or (good god) Volvo is obsolete. Metafilter's high bourgeois tastes are showing. (Consumer Reports just dropped the Camry from most reliable, by the way.). For a truck, I'd frankly rather have a GMC (but I prefer Ford).
A GMC truck is as good as a Toyota truck these days, roughly speaking. But this is a lot of truck with a lot of miles.
Everything is more expensive for a truck, especially a heavy duty one. If you need a heavy duty truck a Yukon is as good as anything Toyota makes.
posted by spitbull at 2:32 AM on October 29, 2013 [2 favorites]
A GMC truck is as good as a Toyota truck these days, roughly speaking. But this is a lot of truck with a lot of miles.
Everything is more expensive for a truck, especially a heavy duty one. If you need a heavy duty truck a Yukon is as good as anything Toyota makes.
posted by spitbull at 2:32 AM on October 29, 2013 [2 favorites]
Just to be clear, a Yukon is a work vehicle, not a ride (unless you are a passenger, they used to be popular as livery SUVs but are mostly being replaced by Navigator/Escalade now in that role). You need a reason -- a work reason -- to own one. If you use a truck for work it's a capital investment and you need to model the costs to decide the best and most reliable capable vehicle you need or can afford. No one should save a few bucks on lower quality tools not up to their work situation. It ends up costing you more.
And my quip about the mileage mistake wasn't meant to be mean, but no one who knows automobiles well would ever be off by 80k miles in remembering the current mileage on their own vehicle. If you can't be bothered to notice 240k vs. 160k, what are the odds you will note that slight grind when shifting or a cracking radiator hose?
posted by spitbull at 3:14 AM on October 29, 2013 [1 favorite]
And my quip about the mileage mistake wasn't meant to be mean, but no one who knows automobiles well would ever be off by 80k miles in remembering the current mileage on their own vehicle. If you can't be bothered to notice 240k vs. 160k, what are the odds you will note that slight grind when shifting or a cracking radiator hose?
posted by spitbull at 3:14 AM on October 29, 2013 [1 favorite]
A GMC Yukon Denali as your first used car purchase?
That's like buying a buffalo when you need a horse. Aside from being ridiculed by everyone in your social and public circle, please consider the Yukon as a truck, and not a car.
posted by Kruger5 at 8:16 AM on October 29, 2013
That's like buying a buffalo when you need a horse. Aside from being ridiculed by everyone in your social and public circle, please consider the Yukon as a truck, and not a car.
posted by Kruger5 at 8:16 AM on October 29, 2013
I'd give this a miss, for all the reasons listed above:
1. Super high milage for a vehicle of that age
2. That particular truck is expensive to own and maintain.
3. Check with your insurance carrier, you'll see that insuring this beast will cost you too.
Are you looking for a heavy-duty truck? Or did this just seem like a great bargain?
Keep looking.
Also, I'm a Honda girl, and I woudn't buy a Honda with close to 200K miles, let alone a GMC! (Yes, my bougie is showing.)
posted by Ruthless Bunny at 9:17 AM on October 29, 2013 [1 favorite]
1. Super high milage for a vehicle of that age
2. That particular truck is expensive to own and maintain.
3. Check with your insurance carrier, you'll see that insuring this beast will cost you too.
Are you looking for a heavy-duty truck? Or did this just seem like a great bargain?
Keep looking.
Also, I'm a Honda girl, and I woudn't buy a Honda with close to 200K miles, let alone a GMC! (Yes, my bougie is showing.)
posted by Ruthless Bunny at 9:17 AM on October 29, 2013 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Sorry, I should have included more detail in my original question -- it's true that I'm pretty much of a newb in regards to technical auto stuff. (For one thing, I refer to it as "technical auto stuff.") I have started dabbling in home auto repair in the past year, but before this I've been one of those drivers who pretty much never opens the hood of his car. Being in my 40s, though, I can't help but have picked up some experience, if only to the extent that I have driven a wide variety of auto types and do have a fair sense of how things should sound/feel. I'm new to buying used cars, but I'm not new to cars. So I, uh, got that going for me.
As to my practical need for a big SUV like a Yukon, it's not something I need on a daily or even weekly basis, but I do regularly find myself bemoaning the lack of vehicle with substantial cargo capacity and hauling ability -- more than what a 4-door sedan can offer, at any rate. I've been putting off home repair/renovation projects because I can't fit things like lumber and 100 lb sacks of gravel into my Accord. So I definitely am looking for a workhorse vehicle, not a cool ride. I actually started out looking at used pickup trucks, but this caught my eye because I've driven a (midsize) SUV in the past and liked the versatility, and this is comparable in price to what I've been considering.
I haven't had many dealership experiences because I've bought Honda Accords and drove them forever, and bought new so I haven't really ever bought a used car before. There are plenty of resources out there about used car buying, but I was having a hard time finding advice about this particular set of circumstances, hence my question. Again, thanks to everyone who has responded, and I do welcome further input. This has been very helpful so far.
posted by Mo' Money Moe Bandy at 10:03 AM on October 29, 2013
As to my practical need for a big SUV like a Yukon, it's not something I need on a daily or even weekly basis, but I do regularly find myself bemoaning the lack of vehicle with substantial cargo capacity and hauling ability -- more than what a 4-door sedan can offer, at any rate. I've been putting off home repair/renovation projects because I can't fit things like lumber and 100 lb sacks of gravel into my Accord. So I definitely am looking for a workhorse vehicle, not a cool ride. I actually started out looking at used pickup trucks, but this caught my eye because I've driven a (midsize) SUV in the past and liked the versatility, and this is comparable in price to what I've been considering.
I haven't had many dealership experiences because I've bought Honda Accords and drove them forever, and bought new so I haven't really ever bought a used car before. There are plenty of resources out there about used car buying, but I was having a hard time finding advice about this particular set of circumstances, hence my question. Again, thanks to everyone who has responded, and I do welcome further input. This has been very helpful so far.
posted by Mo' Money Moe Bandy at 10:03 AM on October 29, 2013
The Yukon Denali is not a midsized SUV - it's the mother of all SUVs. It is firmly a heavy-truck category of machinery. It is either used as a status symbol, or as an exceedingly powerful workhorse for very challenging, tough terrain and heavy duty hauling and towing power. It sacrifices any shred of efficiency to deliver this level of frightening performance.
If this fits your bill, then proceed with your purchase.
posted by Kruger5 at 10:14 AM on October 29, 2013
If this fits your bill, then proceed with your purchase.
posted by Kruger5 at 10:14 AM on October 29, 2013
I'm guessing the mileage is the ONLY reason for the steep markdown.
190k mi on a 2005 model year car is a lot (and this comes from someone who drives 100 mostly-highway miles round-trip to work every day and whose 2007 model year car has 124k mi). What KIND of miles makes a difference -- stop-and-go puts much more wear-and-tear on a car than highway mileage. But you have absolutely NO way of knowing that other than someone's word. Ask the seller if you can take it to YOUR mechanic for a once-over, at your expense, before buying it. It may be fine. It may not be.
posted by tckma at 10:32 AM on October 29, 2013
190k mi on a 2005 model year car is a lot (and this comes from someone who drives 100 mostly-highway miles round-trip to work every day and whose 2007 model year car has 124k mi). What KIND of miles makes a difference -- stop-and-go puts much more wear-and-tear on a car than highway mileage. But you have absolutely NO way of knowing that other than someone's word. Ask the seller if you can take it to YOUR mechanic for a once-over, at your expense, before buying it. It may be fine. It may not be.
posted by tckma at 10:32 AM on October 29, 2013
190,000 miles is just about worn out for almost all cars. You are buying someone else's albatross.
If you want occasional cargo capability, get a hatchback or a minivan. I am constantly amazed by how much crap I can jam into my tiny Hyundai Accent. If I drop the seats, I can probably get two dozen 2x4s in there. My Dad's Malibu Maxx can fit a full size mattress flat in the back. Many minivans can handle 4x8 sheets of plywood or drywall with their seats dropped.
posted by gjc at 5:47 AM on October 30, 2013
If you want occasional cargo capability, get a hatchback or a minivan. I am constantly amazed by how much crap I can jam into my tiny Hyundai Accent. If I drop the seats, I can probably get two dozen 2x4s in there. My Dad's Malibu Maxx can fit a full size mattress flat in the back. Many minivans can handle 4x8 sheets of plywood or drywall with their seats dropped.
posted by gjc at 5:47 AM on October 30, 2013
The gas costs alone will eat up any savings you are imagining. A 2008 Yukon is going to get like 15 miles per gallon on a good day. They don't drive like cars, they don't park like cars, they don't stop like cars. Seconding "rent a truck" if you need to do some projects. You will save more than enough to rent a truck several times a year if you step into something that gets 25mpg, like a standard crossover/midsized SUV.
The Denali Yukon was about $50K new in 2008. This question interested me enough as a truck buff to go checking on prices. I found hundreds of 2007 and 2008 Denali Yukons nationally, of which the HIGHEST mileage I could find was around 150K. There seemed to be about a 10K falloff in price for vehicles that had gone over 100K, so the range was from around 18-20K on the high mileage side to about 30K on the low mileage side. The sweet spot seemed to be around 80K, and that tells you something about the point when these things start getting expensive to maintain. I cannot imagine the savings you are seeing -- which you describe as "2000-3000 dollars" -- do not reflect a direct amortization (and perhaps not enough of one) based on the mileage of the vehicle and the expected service life and repair costs. Remember that with the sort of mileage it has (200K in 7 years), it was almost *certainly* in some kind of commercial service. You would need to know what it was used for. A livery cab gets serviced fairly meticulously and most of the wear and tear is linear. A vehicle that was towing (as Yukons are especially good at and designed to do) 5000 pound trailers over the road for a few years without being meticulously maintained might need engine and tranny and differential and suspension work that would be unusual otherwise even in a 200K vehicle.
Middle aged guys who do occasional home repairs definitely don't need something this big. The $2000-3000 you are talking about saving is small fraction of the price of a decently low-mileage f/s truck -- like the difference between paying $1.50 and $1.75 for a cup of coffee. Hell, a set of tires on that thing are gonna run you $800-1000, and every mile you roll will cost you an extra quarter in gas.
But it's a much more substantial proportion of a smalled, more modestly priced vehicle. If you can afford $18-20K for a beat up Yukon with 200K miles (the lowest prices I saw for high mileage Yukons in the `150K area were in the low 20s, so I'm extrapolating at least another 10-15 percent drop for going over 200K given that there appears to be a 20% immediate hit for going over 100k) you can afford a low mileage, later model, far more fuel efficient and driveable smaller SUV/crossover. And you should consider it. If you need to haul the occasional load of 4x8s get a tow hitch and rent a trailer for $20.
posted by spitbull at 7:06 AM on October 30, 2013
The Denali Yukon was about $50K new in 2008. This question interested me enough as a truck buff to go checking on prices. I found hundreds of 2007 and 2008 Denali Yukons nationally, of which the HIGHEST mileage I could find was around 150K. There seemed to be about a 10K falloff in price for vehicles that had gone over 100K, so the range was from around 18-20K on the high mileage side to about 30K on the low mileage side. The sweet spot seemed to be around 80K, and that tells you something about the point when these things start getting expensive to maintain. I cannot imagine the savings you are seeing -- which you describe as "2000-3000 dollars" -- do not reflect a direct amortization (and perhaps not enough of one) based on the mileage of the vehicle and the expected service life and repair costs. Remember that with the sort of mileage it has (200K in 7 years), it was almost *certainly* in some kind of commercial service. You would need to know what it was used for. A livery cab gets serviced fairly meticulously and most of the wear and tear is linear. A vehicle that was towing (as Yukons are especially good at and designed to do) 5000 pound trailers over the road for a few years without being meticulously maintained might need engine and tranny and differential and suspension work that would be unusual otherwise even in a 200K vehicle.
Middle aged guys who do occasional home repairs definitely don't need something this big. The $2000-3000 you are talking about saving is small fraction of the price of a decently low-mileage f/s truck -- like the difference between paying $1.50 and $1.75 for a cup of coffee. Hell, a set of tires on that thing are gonna run you $800-1000, and every mile you roll will cost you an extra quarter in gas.
But it's a much more substantial proportion of a smalled, more modestly priced vehicle. If you can afford $18-20K for a beat up Yukon with 200K miles (the lowest prices I saw for high mileage Yukons in the `150K area were in the low 20s, so I'm extrapolating at least another 10-15 percent drop for going over 200K given that there appears to be a 20% immediate hit for going over 100k) you can afford a low mileage, later model, far more fuel efficient and driveable smaller SUV/crossover. And you should consider it. If you need to haul the occasional load of 4x8s get a tow hitch and rent a trailer for $20.
posted by spitbull at 7:06 AM on October 30, 2013
Response by poster: Follow-up: I ended up not going with the Yukon. The dealer got weaselly when I tried to arrange an outside inspection, so I bolted. There were already too many red flags going up, and really the only way I could go forward with something with this mileage on it was if my mechanic gave it a relatively clean bill of health. So, while it remains to be seen if this thing is too good to be true, I guess I won't be the one to test that. Thanks to everyone for your wisdom. It was very helpful.
posted by Mo' Money Moe Bandy at 2:28 PM on October 30, 2013
posted by Mo' Money Moe Bandy at 2:28 PM on October 30, 2013
This thread is closed to new comments.
The only exceptions to this pre-purchase checkup are people you really, REALLY trust, like your sainted grandma who you *know* only drove it to church and grocery shopping.
posted by easily confused at 4:20 PM on October 28, 2013 [2 favorites]