Itinerary for 4 days in Fruili
July 30, 2013 3:17 AM Subscribe
Calling foodies and aficionados of remote North-East Italy!
During the last week of August I will have the rare opportunity to visit the region of Friuli that I heard so much about, but I'm at loss at where to start and how to plan an itinerary...
Despite flying in and out of Ljubljana, I want to skip Slovenia and Trieste, and instead fully concentrate on the Provinces of Udine and Gorizia. I will be traveling solo, however not backpacking (more like suitcase-ing).
I'm there for the vineyards, the cuisine, the castles, the history and the ruins, and of course the ragged breathtaking Alps.
Specific questions inside but ALL your recommendations, ideas, memories and address books are appreciated and dearly welcome!
Some specific Questions:
- Primo. I'm not sure if to rent a car or not. Nor where to do so? I'm flying into Ljubljana, and understand that from Ljubljana to the Italian border or the Austrian border, one needs to pass tolls and/or buy one or several vignettes. This seems like an expensive hassle. Also, I can only drive an automatic car. How much more expensive would renting an automatic be? And on an American driver's license? I would love the freedom of having a car, but I'm unsure if the costs balance the advantages. What is the state of the roads in the Italian Alps, in summer? Idea: could I possibly fly into Ljubljana, take a train to Gorizia, and rent a car in Gorizia (and do the same itinerary back to Ljubljana)? Or there something better you could suggest (like rent in Udine)?
- Secondo. I'm an outdoors type of person and I found two awesome things on facebook and would love to give one or both a try. (Having a car here is probably essential, alas). Has anyone participated in the Collio in Vespa thing or the Suoni dell Dolomiti concert tour? (yes, I know the second is in Trentino not Udine, but if there is a nice concert the few days I'm in the region then I just might consider it.) Any other suggestions for outdoors-like activities in the region, late August? Hiking trails? National parks?
- Tertio. Food and accommodations. I heard so much wonderful stuff about agro-tourismo. However I just very recently realized that agrotourismo is quite expensive, and you'll get more bang for your buck staying in cheap motel-hotels in the cities than in rural farms. Any opinion? Any recommendations? Any regional specialties not to miss?
- Quatro. Places to visit! The furthest south I'm thinking of going is Aquileia (if I had time, I'd go to Lignano) and I'd love to see San Daniele, and Udine of course, then further north to Lago Sauris, Tolmezzo and then more east to tarvisio and Lago del Predil, and then the Collio wine country.
Any must-see historical or cultural places along the way? Ruins, castles, restaurants, museums?
- Finalmente: if on the day I land in Ljubljana I immediately travel to Friuli, then I would have a grand maximum of 4 days and 5 nights in this magical region. I won't be able to see it all, alas. But what itinerary would you firmly recommend for a first time Friulian traveler. All your ideas, suggestions, recommendations, everything, anything are very much appreciated.
Graciis!!
Some specific Questions:
- Primo. I'm not sure if to rent a car or not. Nor where to do so? I'm flying into Ljubljana, and understand that from Ljubljana to the Italian border or the Austrian border, one needs to pass tolls and/or buy one or several vignettes. This seems like an expensive hassle. Also, I can only drive an automatic car. How much more expensive would renting an automatic be? And on an American driver's license? I would love the freedom of having a car, but I'm unsure if the costs balance the advantages. What is the state of the roads in the Italian Alps, in summer? Idea: could I possibly fly into Ljubljana, take a train to Gorizia, and rent a car in Gorizia (and do the same itinerary back to Ljubljana)? Or there something better you could suggest (like rent in Udine)?
- Secondo. I'm an outdoors type of person and I found two awesome things on facebook and would love to give one or both a try. (Having a car here is probably essential, alas). Has anyone participated in the Collio in Vespa thing or the Suoni dell Dolomiti concert tour? (yes, I know the second is in Trentino not Udine, but if there is a nice concert the few days I'm in the region then I just might consider it.) Any other suggestions for outdoors-like activities in the region, late August? Hiking trails? National parks?
- Tertio. Food and accommodations. I heard so much wonderful stuff about agro-tourismo. However I just very recently realized that agrotourismo is quite expensive, and you'll get more bang for your buck staying in cheap motel-hotels in the cities than in rural farms. Any opinion? Any recommendations? Any regional specialties not to miss?
- Quatro. Places to visit! The furthest south I'm thinking of going is Aquileia (if I had time, I'd go to Lignano) and I'd love to see San Daniele, and Udine of course, then further north to Lago Sauris, Tolmezzo and then more east to tarvisio and Lago del Predil, and then the Collio wine country.
Any must-see historical or cultural places along the way? Ruins, castles, restaurants, museums?
- Finalmente: if on the day I land in Ljubljana I immediately travel to Friuli, then I would have a grand maximum of 4 days and 5 nights in this magical region. I won't be able to see it all, alas. But what itinerary would you firmly recommend for a first time Friulian traveler. All your ideas, suggestions, recommendations, everything, anything are very much appreciated.
Graciis!!
Best answer: 2nd on Palmanova. It's great.
Primo. I'm not sure if to rent a car or not.
Yes, on renting. If you want to go into the back of beyond, you'll need a car. As far as I'm aware, it's much of a muchness from where you rent the car (avoid airports, book online). If you rent in Slovenia/Austria, the rental car will already have the motorway vignettes. An American licence has never been a problem when I've had friends visiting me from the US. An automatic, if you can get one, is likely to add considerably to your costs. You may have most luck getting an automatic in Austria, but that is pure speculation on my part, sorry. The roads are fine, if busy. Watch out for crazy cyclists going at crazy speeds around crazy corners. You'll also be jousting with motorcyclists and camper vans.
When in Ljubljana, take a look at this place for epic cake. Around Ljubljana you should take a look at Lake Bled, Skofja Loka and of course you should cross the Triglav on your way to Italy. Piran is also well worth a look and indeed has some of my favourite fish restaurants in the world. Slovenia is also rightly famous for its thermal spas if that's something you like. If you do go to Piran, go on to Italy via Trieste and Miramare.
Secondo. I'm an outdoors type of person
My favourite place in that corner of Italy is the area around Val Dogna. You'll be able to get some great hikes. The area was the frontline in WW1 between Italy and Austria and so there is a lot of history in the region too. Triglav is also an obvious place to go if you like hiking.
Tertio. Food and accommodations. I heard so much wonderful stuff about agro-tourismo.
I don't think it should be too expensive, but I don't know your budget. I know that the Austrian equivalents, the Buschenschanks, are amazing and offer great value. You could fly into Graz and hire a car from there, stop at a Buschenschank and then head on to Slovenia if you want that agro-tourismo experience. Austria south of Graz is absolutely stunning.
Places to visit!
Most of the places you have mentioned are great. Udine is OK, I suppose. Skip Lignano, go to Grado instead.
I hope this gives you some ideas. Feel free to mail me if you want.
posted by MighstAllCruckingFighty at 9:02 AM on July 30, 2013 [1 favorite]
Primo. I'm not sure if to rent a car or not.
Yes, on renting. If you want to go into the back of beyond, you'll need a car. As far as I'm aware, it's much of a muchness from where you rent the car (avoid airports, book online). If you rent in Slovenia/Austria, the rental car will already have the motorway vignettes. An American licence has never been a problem when I've had friends visiting me from the US. An automatic, if you can get one, is likely to add considerably to your costs. You may have most luck getting an automatic in Austria, but that is pure speculation on my part, sorry. The roads are fine, if busy. Watch out for crazy cyclists going at crazy speeds around crazy corners. You'll also be jousting with motorcyclists and camper vans.
When in Ljubljana, take a look at this place for epic cake. Around Ljubljana you should take a look at Lake Bled, Skofja Loka and of course you should cross the Triglav on your way to Italy. Piran is also well worth a look and indeed has some of my favourite fish restaurants in the world. Slovenia is also rightly famous for its thermal spas if that's something you like. If you do go to Piran, go on to Italy via Trieste and Miramare.
Secondo. I'm an outdoors type of person
My favourite place in that corner of Italy is the area around Val Dogna. You'll be able to get some great hikes. The area was the frontline in WW1 between Italy and Austria and so there is a lot of history in the region too. Triglav is also an obvious place to go if you like hiking.
Tertio. Food and accommodations. I heard so much wonderful stuff about agro-tourismo.
I don't think it should be too expensive, but I don't know your budget. I know that the Austrian equivalents, the Buschenschanks, are amazing and offer great value. You could fly into Graz and hire a car from there, stop at a Buschenschank and then head on to Slovenia if you want that agro-tourismo experience. Austria south of Graz is absolutely stunning.
Places to visit!
Most of the places you have mentioned are great. Udine is OK, I suppose. Skip Lignano, go to Grado instead.
I hope this gives you some ideas. Feel free to mail me if you want.
posted by MighstAllCruckingFighty at 9:02 AM on July 30, 2013 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Wonderful! Thank you, and again, if anyone has any more suggestions, please keep them coming.
And thank you specifically for suggesting the Val Dogna, which led me to also learn about the history of the remote Carnia region, and thank you for suggesting Grado instead of Lignano - great idea!
Is there any nice website, like the Buschenschanks one, for Italian country homes?
Also, if you had a choice, and taking into account costs and conveniance, would you rather (a) rent the automatic car in Lubljana airport and drive to Friuli, or (b) take the train to Friuli, and rent somewhere like Gorizia or Udine?
posted by ruelle at 1:54 AM on July 31, 2013
And thank you specifically for suggesting the Val Dogna, which led me to also learn about the history of the remote Carnia region, and thank you for suggesting Grado instead of Lignano - great idea!
Is there any nice website, like the Buschenschanks one, for Italian country homes?
Also, if you had a choice, and taking into account costs and conveniance, would you rather (a) rent the automatic car in Lubljana airport and drive to Friuli, or (b) take the train to Friuli, and rent somewhere like Gorizia or Udine?
posted by ruelle at 1:54 AM on July 31, 2013
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by stopgap at 7:39 AM on July 30, 2013 [1 favorite]