How can I build my wood/nail compost bin more strongly?
July 2, 2013 10:19 PM Subscribe
I tried to build a compost bin with wood and nails over the last week but it came out pretty badly-weak and out of true. I don't know enough to know how to do it better next time.
I tried to build one of these compost bins: http://eartheasy.com/grow_compost_bin_build.htm
I know very little about carpentry, and this project seemed like a good starter project. I didn't get the exterior wood that they recommended, since it was like six times as much-just some cheap stuff. I did get the galvanized nails. The hatchet that the project recommends was too crude to make the appropriate cut and I had to use a saw to get the angle on the 2x2s. Throughout the project, I felt like nailing the nails into one section of wood loosened the structural integrity of the rest of the already-nailed-together sections. I had to constantly move and brace the structure to keep it together, and it never felt strong. I got some C clamps to hold it together and that helped some. When I got all of the pieces together, it wasn't quite square, and never seemed quite strong, but it seemed strong enough for the job.
However, when I sledghammered it into the ground, it got all messed up-nails popping out all over the place as I drove the supports into the ground. Once a nailed board popped out, it became very difficult to get it back in without bending the nails. It got very out of square and the cross support 2x6s looked uneven and unlevel, to the degree that it looked really amateurish and I knew that I would not be happy with it as it stood, so I ripped out the loosest boards and ripped the nails out of them. The rest is still in the ground, with four or five 2x6s still attached. The corner stakes aren't in the ground straight and true-probably because of the unsquare construction of the bin, so they'll need to be completely removed, I think.
So, I know how it's bad and I'd like to try again (ideally with the same wood, but perhaps the wood is part of my problem?) but I don't know what do to do make it turn out better this time. Thanks for your help.
I tried to build one of these compost bins: http://eartheasy.com/grow_compost_bin_build.htm
I know very little about carpentry, and this project seemed like a good starter project. I didn't get the exterior wood that they recommended, since it was like six times as much-just some cheap stuff. I did get the galvanized nails. The hatchet that the project recommends was too crude to make the appropriate cut and I had to use a saw to get the angle on the 2x2s. Throughout the project, I felt like nailing the nails into one section of wood loosened the structural integrity of the rest of the already-nailed-together sections. I had to constantly move and brace the structure to keep it together, and it never felt strong. I got some C clamps to hold it together and that helped some. When I got all of the pieces together, it wasn't quite square, and never seemed quite strong, but it seemed strong enough for the job.
However, when I sledghammered it into the ground, it got all messed up-nails popping out all over the place as I drove the supports into the ground. Once a nailed board popped out, it became very difficult to get it back in without bending the nails. It got very out of square and the cross support 2x6s looked uneven and unlevel, to the degree that it looked really amateurish and I knew that I would not be happy with it as it stood, so I ripped out the loosest boards and ripped the nails out of them. The rest is still in the ground, with four or five 2x6s still attached. The corner stakes aren't in the ground straight and true-probably because of the unsquare construction of the bin, so they'll need to be completely removed, I think.
So, I know how it's bad and I'd like to try again (ideally with the same wood, but perhaps the wood is part of my problem?) but I don't know what do to do make it turn out better this time. Thanks for your help.
Best answer: So - yeah. That instruction does seem to set you up for failure.
-- I don't like the way the 'feet' of the contraption are only made pointy on the insides: this would drive the construction apart as soon as you hammer it into the ground, unless you're having the softest of soils in your garden. Anyway, see below. For now: just skip that step, you won't need it.
-- Let's assume you are indeed using nails (I would use screws, as zug writes):
You first separately assemble two facing sides.
Now you need to find some kind of support for the 2x2s while you are nailing the boards of a third side into one of these prepared sides. You could use the edge of a workbench: place the part you're about to hammer nails into firmly on the edge of your work surface, one of the sides hanging down, the now-to-be-hammered-on planks flat on the surface (or, in other words, never whack onto any part of the construction without having some type of firm support at the very point you're hammering, or the construction will tend to come apart). You end up with something that looks like an L, seen from above.
To add the other prepared side (to make an |_|, seen from above), you can't use the workbench as support any more; prepare a plank of the right length so it can be placed inside the construction, supporting - from the ground - the inner edge of the 4x4 you now will be hammering into.
When you're done making a |_|, seen from above, you might risk hammering the planks of the remaining side in place just like that, but I would still use supports to prevent knocking stuff apart.
-- you did pre-drill the nail holes, as they say, did you? Take a smaller diameter drill next time. Test with some piece of the wood just how small the drill needs to be before splitting becomes an issue.
Use a square edge to mark and pre-drill the holes, then your final result will also be square. "Strong" it won't ever be, using nails and wood of those dimensions.
-- Dig some holes in the ground for the feet of the bin. Don't drive the bin down with a sledge hammer. Put it in place, secure the feet with a few handsfulses of gravel for each side, then fill up with dirt and tamp it on by stepping on it a few times.
posted by Namlit at 11:31 PM on July 2, 2013 [2 favorites]
-- I don't like the way the 'feet' of the contraption are only made pointy on the insides: this would drive the construction apart as soon as you hammer it into the ground, unless you're having the softest of soils in your garden. Anyway, see below. For now: just skip that step, you won't need it.
-- Let's assume you are indeed using nails (I would use screws, as zug writes):
You first separately assemble two facing sides.
Now you need to find some kind of support for the 2x2s while you are nailing the boards of a third side into one of these prepared sides. You could use the edge of a workbench: place the part you're about to hammer nails into firmly on the edge of your work surface, one of the sides hanging down, the now-to-be-hammered-on planks flat on the surface (or, in other words, never whack onto any part of the construction without having some type of firm support at the very point you're hammering, or the construction will tend to come apart). You end up with something that looks like an L, seen from above.
To add the other prepared side (to make an |_|, seen from above), you can't use the workbench as support any more; prepare a plank of the right length so it can be placed inside the construction, supporting - from the ground - the inner edge of the 4x4 you now will be hammering into.
When you're done making a |_|, seen from above, you might risk hammering the planks of the remaining side in place just like that, but I would still use supports to prevent knocking stuff apart.
-- you did pre-drill the nail holes, as they say, did you? Take a smaller diameter drill next time. Test with some piece of the wood just how small the drill needs to be before splitting becomes an issue.
Use a square edge to mark and pre-drill the holes, then your final result will also be square. "Strong" it won't ever be, using nails and wood of those dimensions.
-- Dig some holes in the ground for the feet of the bin. Don't drive the bin down with a sledge hammer. Put it in place, secure the feet with a few handsfulses of gravel for each side, then fill up with dirt and tamp it on by stepping on it a few times.
posted by Namlit at 11:31 PM on July 2, 2013 [2 favorites]
The plan seems to over-complicate the process. Whacking it into the ground will damage it -- but if you can fill it right away it should stay in place. Alternatively, you could scoop out some holes for the stakes. Or you can build a square box and purchase metal stakes and install them separately -- drive the metal stakes/fence posts into the ground where you need them and then wire the wooden box into place.
At any rate, this is all part of learning. Please don't beat yourself up.
posted by Ostara at 12:08 AM on July 3, 2013
At any rate, this is all part of learning. Please don't beat yourself up.
posted by Ostara at 12:08 AM on July 3, 2013
If you drive the nails in at different angles (e.g. one nail angled downwards, the neighbouring nail angled upwards,) that will help to prevent the joints from pulling apart. But I'd use screws - they'll hold the joints much more tightly together.
If you want an easier way to build something like this, just pick up a few wooden shipping pallets and tie them together.
posted by pipeski at 12:34 AM on July 3, 2013
If you want an easier way to build something like this, just pick up a few wooden shipping pallets and tie them together.
posted by pipeski at 12:34 AM on July 3, 2013
Use screws instead of nails.
posted by Jacqueline at 1:46 AM on July 3, 2013
posted by Jacqueline at 1:46 AM on July 3, 2013
Use a bead of construction adhesive on each joint as you assemble. The stuff has immediate tack, to help hold the parts together while you nail, but remains workable for about 10 minutes, to allow you to make adjustments, if needed. After that, it sets, so that nails or screws become, for all intents and purposes, superfluous.
posted by paulsc at 4:14 AM on July 3, 2013
posted by paulsc at 4:14 AM on July 3, 2013
Best answer: A big part of the reason it's hard is that those instructions are attempting to suggest a workable approach for people who lack some pretty basic tools. Screws would be much better, but the article suggests nails for the sole reason that the author doesn't want to assume you have an electric drill. It would also be best to pound the stakes in BEFORE assembly, but that's difficult to do precisely, which would throw off the lengths of the side boards. If you have a decent saw then you can trim the boards to length as you go, but the author assumes you don't have a saw and will need to have the lumberyard cut for you.
But those instructions suck for other reasons, too.
The suggestion that you use 2x6 side boards is silly; they're much more rigid than necessary. He wants you to get 2x6 WRC (western red cedar) which is a specialty product, whereas 1x6 WRC is commonly available and not all that expensive.
AND he wants you to use 2 3/4" nails, meaning he expects them to penetrate only 1 1/4" into the posts. That's not nearly enough penetration to resist the outward pressure of a bin of wet compost being forked around, let alone the stresses of assembly and installation. The probable reason for that fastener suggestion is that the short nails won't stick out through the back of 2x2 posts. The correct solution to that is to use bigger posts and longer nails, or the small posts but with screws.
Finally, since he's got at least one board on all four sides, it's not even necessary to pound this thing into the ground. If you've got a reasonably level area to put it, just build a box without the pointy legs, and let it sit there.
posted by jon1270 at 4:19 AM on July 3, 2013 [3 favorites]
But those instructions suck for other reasons, too.
The suggestion that you use 2x6 side boards is silly; they're much more rigid than necessary. He wants you to get 2x6 WRC (western red cedar) which is a specialty product, whereas 1x6 WRC is commonly available and not all that expensive.
AND he wants you to use 2 3/4" nails, meaning he expects them to penetrate only 1 1/4" into the posts. That's not nearly enough penetration to resist the outward pressure of a bin of wet compost being forked around, let alone the stresses of assembly and installation. The probable reason for that fastener suggestion is that the short nails won't stick out through the back of 2x2 posts. The correct solution to that is to use bigger posts and longer nails, or the small posts but with screws.
Finally, since he's got at least one board on all four sides, it's not even necessary to pound this thing into the ground. If you've got a reasonably level area to put it, just build a box without the pointy legs, and let it sit there.
posted by jon1270 at 4:19 AM on July 3, 2013 [3 favorites]
Best answer: It's OK to modify anything you find online to meet the needs of your local conditions. The trick with building anything is to be able to quickly tell if that's needed.
If it were MY project, I'd use 2x4 for the corner pieces. 2x2 is pretty delicate. I'd also make the legs longer, and instead of driving them into the ground, I'd dig holes for them and set the structure in place to avoid loosening my fasteners and/or stressing the material. You can fill the holes with gravel instead of dirt and the entire thing would be easy to lift out if/when you want to remove it for any reason.
It won't last. The wood will be exposed to water, dirt, and weather. A few years, maybe? Design changes that would improve it include the screws so many above have recommended. (I use deck screws for outside stuff. They are coated. If you drive them with a cheap battery powered driver, they are easy to precisely install. They won't rust, either.)
The normal progression for stuff like this is that when you start, your workmanship and skill are low. Your uncertainty and confidence are wanting. Your tool set is miniscule. Your experience is low. If you do several handy-person things a year, all of this gets really a lot better in a decade. If you can watch/help someone build, and ask questions, it's good, too.
We were all there once.
posted by FauxScot at 4:19 AM on July 3, 2013
If it were MY project, I'd use 2x4 for the corner pieces. 2x2 is pretty delicate. I'd also make the legs longer, and instead of driving them into the ground, I'd dig holes for them and set the structure in place to avoid loosening my fasteners and/or stressing the material. You can fill the holes with gravel instead of dirt and the entire thing would be easy to lift out if/when you want to remove it for any reason.
It won't last. The wood will be exposed to water, dirt, and weather. A few years, maybe? Design changes that would improve it include the screws so many above have recommended. (I use deck screws for outside stuff. They are coated. If you drive them with a cheap battery powered driver, they are easy to precisely install. They won't rust, either.)
The normal progression for stuff like this is that when you start, your workmanship and skill are low. Your uncertainty and confidence are wanting. Your tool set is miniscule. Your experience is low. If you do several handy-person things a year, all of this gets really a lot better in a decade. If you can watch/help someone build, and ask questions, it's good, too.
We were all there once.
posted by FauxScot at 4:19 AM on July 3, 2013
Best answer: One more suggestion: put the side boards inside the posts instead of on the outside. Yes, this will make the capacity a tad smaller, but the weight of the contents will tend to push the boards against the posts instead of away from them. This would be an especially good idea if you use nails instead of screws.
posted by jon1270 at 4:32 AM on July 3, 2013 [1 favorite]
posted by jon1270 at 4:32 AM on July 3, 2013 [1 favorite]
Yeah, not a very good design to begin with. I agree with the suggestion to use screws, they'll hold much better against the outward pressure of the compost. And 1x6 cedar sounds right for the sides.
The reason for cedar is that it is rot-resistant, and if you drive a normal 2x2 or 2x4 into the ground (or dig post holes), it will rot in no time. I'd just sit the thing flush on the ground, myself.
Cedar is expensive.
posted by mr vino at 5:34 AM on July 3, 2013
The reason for cedar is that it is rot-resistant, and if you drive a normal 2x2 or 2x4 into the ground (or dig post holes), it will rot in no time. I'd just sit the thing flush on the ground, myself.
Cedar is expensive.
posted by mr vino at 5:34 AM on July 3, 2013
Nails not holding in cheap wood is a known problem. Pound a nail in oak (assuming you can) and it might break rather than pull out, while a nail in a common 2x4 can almost be pulled out with your fingers. They have tried to overcome this with specialty nails like rosin-coated nails and ring-nails, but the simplest is to do like everyone above said and use screws. But that would be pretty hard to do without a drill (to at least predrill the holes), or even better drive them in. I recently built something similar, but used perforated metal angle in the corners. You can use short drywall screws that are easy to drive in, and the metal is easy to drive into the ground.
posted by 445supermag at 6:25 AM on July 3, 2013
posted by 445supermag at 6:25 AM on July 3, 2013
Best answer: Just to add some other suggestions (these are all great, by the way) -
You don't pound an assembled box like that into the ground - when you pound in one post, you are forcing the connecting two sides to shear, which will (as you discovered) weaken/break the box.
What I would do if I were wedded to this design is pound the posts in first and try to get them as square as possible. Then measure the board lengths off the posts and screw them in. Like another poster said, 1x6 for the sides will be fine. Use something rot resistant for the posts.
Here's another option for this design. Instead of wooden posts, use rebar. Get 4 3-foot sections of rebar and 3 dozen or so screw eyes such that the screw eye rides easily, but not loosely on the rebar. Pound the rebar into the ground into a square, about 3 foot on a side. cut your side boards to be 3 feet [or the measured spacing] - (2 x the size of the screw eye from top to where the threads start). Screw 2 screw eyes into each board end top and bottom.
You install the boards by sliding the screw eyes onto the rebar. You'll have to weave them. Starting with the lower boards - do the bottom screw eyes of the sides then the bottoms of the front and back, then the top screw eyes of the sides then the top screw eyes of the front and back.
But wait! Let these slide to ground level. The top boards will slide right on down, but you can prevent this by turning the screw eyes so that the profile is smaller and it will have more friction or by driving an ordinary small wood screw in the gap between screw eye and rebar.
But honestly, what you should do is use four rebar posts and run poultry netting around three sides and half or quarter height on the front.
Put something decorative on top of the rebar posts. Why? Because rebar ends can be sharp and sharp metal + compost = nasty infection waiting to happen. They sell rebar caps, but tennis balls work great too if you have them.
posted by plinth at 6:41 AM on July 3, 2013
You don't pound an assembled box like that into the ground - when you pound in one post, you are forcing the connecting two sides to shear, which will (as you discovered) weaken/break the box.
What I would do if I were wedded to this design is pound the posts in first and try to get them as square as possible. Then measure the board lengths off the posts and screw them in. Like another poster said, 1x6 for the sides will be fine. Use something rot resistant for the posts.
Here's another option for this design. Instead of wooden posts, use rebar. Get 4 3-foot sections of rebar and 3 dozen or so screw eyes such that the screw eye rides easily, but not loosely on the rebar. Pound the rebar into the ground into a square, about 3 foot on a side. cut your side boards to be 3 feet [or the measured spacing] - (2 x the size of the screw eye from top to where the threads start). Screw 2 screw eyes into each board end top and bottom.
You install the boards by sliding the screw eyes onto the rebar. You'll have to weave them. Starting with the lower boards - do the bottom screw eyes of the sides then the bottoms of the front and back, then the top screw eyes of the sides then the top screw eyes of the front and back.
But wait! Let these slide to ground level. The top boards will slide right on down, but you can prevent this by turning the screw eyes so that the profile is smaller and it will have more friction or by driving an ordinary small wood screw in the gap between screw eye and rebar.
But honestly, what you should do is use four rebar posts and run poultry netting around three sides and half or quarter height on the front.
Put something decorative on top of the rebar posts. Why? Because rebar ends can be sharp and sharp metal + compost = nasty infection waiting to happen. They sell rebar caps, but tennis balls work great too if you have them.
posted by plinth at 6:41 AM on July 3, 2013
Best answer: The instructions you linked to left out a couple important details on the assumption that they're common sense. You're not going to have this kind of 'common sense', though, unless you have prior experience building stuff.
a) The structure will be really wobbly until it's installed because it doesn't have any built-in bracing. The idea is the ground will act as bracing once the corner posts are set, provided it's set square. (This is the key part they forgot to tell you.)
Position the box on the spot where you want it to go, just sitting on the ground without driving the posts in yet. Check that it's sitting square with a framing square. Fiddle with it till it is.
Lightly tap one of posts into the ground, just an inch or so, just enough to hold it in position while you're tapping the others. Check for square again. Now lightly tap in one of the adjacent posts. Check for square again. Now lightly tap in the third post, then the fourth. Keep checking for square. Now, go around the corners in sequence tapping the posts in a bit further. Keep doing until it's positioned reasonably securely.
Now you can safely drive the posts in without the structure getting out of whack or falling apart. Still going around the corners in sequence. Don't drive one of them all the way in at first. Drive the first post part of the way in, then go around set the others roughly the same amount. Repeat until done.
b) When you pre-drill nail holes, be sure to use a drill bit that's smaller in diameter than the nails, otherwise the nails will be loose and fall out.
Like every one else here, I'd use screws for this rather than nails. The joints will be stronger.
Pull up the box and take it apart. You'll probably have better luck prying the side pieces off first, then pulling up the posts. Reassemble with galvanized screws. Set it again following the instructions above. Set it slightly off of it's original position so the posts won't try to go back into the original holes, which you know are off.
A couple comments:
It's worth it to use cedar for something like this. Pine will rot pretty quickly.
The angled cuts on the corner posts are actually OK. The pointy sides are turned outward, which will make the posts push outward when you set them, but the corner joints will hold them in place. This will resulting tension will improve the bracing of corners and make the box stronger once it's set. However, this is one reason the box got so badly out of whack when you set it. This won't be a problem if the corner joints are reasonably strong and you set the posts lightly at first and keep checking for square as you're starting them.
posted by nangar at 7:04 AM on July 3, 2013
a) The structure will be really wobbly until it's installed because it doesn't have any built-in bracing. The idea is the ground will act as bracing once the corner posts are set, provided it's set square. (This is the key part they forgot to tell you.)
Position the box on the spot where you want it to go, just sitting on the ground without driving the posts in yet. Check that it's sitting square with a framing square. Fiddle with it till it is.
Lightly tap one of posts into the ground, just an inch or so, just enough to hold it in position while you're tapping the others. Check for square again. Now lightly tap in one of the adjacent posts. Check for square again. Now lightly tap in the third post, then the fourth. Keep checking for square. Now, go around the corners in sequence tapping the posts in a bit further. Keep doing until it's positioned reasonably securely.
Now you can safely drive the posts in without the structure getting out of whack or falling apart. Still going around the corners in sequence. Don't drive one of them all the way in at first. Drive the first post part of the way in, then go around set the others roughly the same amount. Repeat until done.
b) When you pre-drill nail holes, be sure to use a drill bit that's smaller in diameter than the nails, otherwise the nails will be loose and fall out.
Like every one else here, I'd use screws for this rather than nails. The joints will be stronger.
Pull up the box and take it apart. You'll probably have better luck prying the side pieces off first, then pulling up the posts. Reassemble with galvanized screws. Set it again following the instructions above. Set it slightly off of it's original position so the posts won't try to go back into the original holes, which you know are off.
A couple comments:
It's worth it to use cedar for something like this. Pine will rot pretty quickly.
The angled cuts on the corner posts are actually OK. The pointy sides are turned outward, which will make the posts push outward when you set them, but the corner joints will hold them in place. This will resulting tension will improve the bracing of corners and make the box stronger once it's set. However, this is one reason the box got so badly out of whack when you set it. This won't be a problem if the corner joints are reasonably strong and you set the posts lightly at first and keep checking for square as you're starting them.
posted by nangar at 7:04 AM on July 3, 2013
The design is so bad I wonder if it's not a trick to get you to give up and purchase one of the bins for sale at the bottom of the page.
posted by grog at 7:54 AM on July 3, 2013 [2 favorites]
posted by grog at 7:54 AM on July 3, 2013 [2 favorites]
Screw, don't nail. Screw-and-glue for optimum holding power.
posted by windykites at 8:33 AM on July 3, 2013
posted by windykites at 8:33 AM on July 3, 2013
However, I would just save myself some trouble and pound some prebought, inexpensive stakes in the ground, then staple chicken wire or some other screening around the thing because I am lazy. If I didn't have a staple gun, I would get 4 extra stakes and make a stake sandwich (heh heh heh): pound in the stakes, get a pal to hold the screen, pound in the second set of stakes and screw the outer stakes to the inner.
posted by windykites at 8:50 AM on July 3, 2013
posted by windykites at 8:50 AM on July 3, 2013
Response by poster: Lots of great advice here; AskMe is such a terrific resource. I do have an electric drill and a reasonable hand saw; seems like the thing to do is to start over with 1x6 cedar and cedar posts, and screws, predrive the stakes, and cut the 1x6s to length if I can't get the stakes quite true. I'm sure I can find a use for the pine that I already have. What kind of screws should I get?
posted by Kwine at 9:03 AM on July 3, 2013
posted by Kwine at 9:03 AM on July 3, 2013
I use Deck Mate screws for everything now. They have a specialty bit that doesn't cam out and the expoxy coating on them is thick enough to use in treated lumber without corrosion (galvanized or regular steel screws will react with the chemicals used to treat wood).
Here is an actual useful set of plans for composting and various bins. I just do it in a heap myself or spread out the leaves/grass mulch about 3" thick on my bed all winter and then till it about 2 weeks before I want to plant seeds/starts. as described in this book.
My Mom uses 4 pallets held up with rebar like plinths describes. It is sturdy, the pallets were free and the rebar was too, she just asked for cut off lengths at the farm/ranch store people had left and eventually came up with 4 long enough to work. the 4th one is braced up with a 2x4 into the ground so it is easy for her to open without having to lift the pallet (she's 68).
posted by bartonlong at 9:55 AM on July 3, 2013
Here is an actual useful set of plans for composting and various bins. I just do it in a heap myself or spread out the leaves/grass mulch about 3" thick on my bed all winter and then till it about 2 weeks before I want to plant seeds/starts. as described in this book.
My Mom uses 4 pallets held up with rebar like plinths describes. It is sturdy, the pallets were free and the rebar was too, she just asked for cut off lengths at the farm/ranch store people had left and eventually came up with 4 long enough to work. the 4th one is braced up with a 2x4 into the ground so it is easy for her to open without having to lift the pallet (she's 68).
posted by bartonlong at 9:55 AM on July 3, 2013
I'm using stainless deck screws for outdoors work of this type. They can be retrieved from your crumbling fences, decks, or boxes and re-used.
posted by Namlit at 11:11 AM on July 3, 2013
posted by Namlit at 11:11 AM on July 3, 2013
> seems like the thing to do is to start over with 1x6 cedar and cedar posts, and screws, predrive the stakes, and cut the 1x6s to length if I can't get the stakes quite true.
That will work! Use galvanized or stainless steel screws or any screws sold for decking.
posted by nangar at 12:20 PM on July 3, 2013
That will work! Use galvanized or stainless steel screws or any screws sold for decking.
posted by nangar at 12:20 PM on July 3, 2013
Besides stainless, there are also coated exterior screws, e.g. the Deckmate screws bartonlong mentioned. Stainless are nicer, but considerably more expensive.
If you can't find cedar of appropriate dimensions for the posts, just use treated lumber. The treated stuff (which is Southern yellow pine) will hold screws better anyhow.
posted by jon1270 at 12:30 PM on July 3, 2013
If you can't find cedar of appropriate dimensions for the posts, just use treated lumber. The treated stuff (which is Southern yellow pine) will hold screws better anyhow.
posted by jon1270 at 12:30 PM on July 3, 2013
Depending on your intended use of the compost you make, you might want to think twice about using CCA pressure treated lumber for constructing a compost bin. Some of the CCA preservative will leach out of the wood, to compost in contact with it. Even though the inorganic arsenic (the "A" in CCA) is generally not particularly mobile, it is customary and usual to turn compost regularly, to distribute moisture, and promote overall even breakdown of the material. Thus, when you turn your compost, you will inevitably be mixing in leached inorganic arsenic, and at the same time, exposing possibly new composting material to the treated wood to leach yet more arsenic.
If you'll just be using the stuff for flower beds, and around landscaping, no big deal. But it might be different story if you plan to use the material on a vegetable garden.
Western red cedar is naturally insect resistant, but will rot by fungus, bacterial and mechanical (freeze/thaw from water) action, particularly if in regular contact with moisture, as it might be a fair amount of the time in this application. But I think 1 x 6 WRC would give you 3 to 5 years of service, depending on how much freeze/thaw action your location gets in winter and spring.
posted by paulsc at 1:18 PM on July 3, 2013 [1 favorite]
If you'll just be using the stuff for flower beds, and around landscaping, no big deal. But it might be different story if you plan to use the material on a vegetable garden.
Western red cedar is naturally insect resistant, but will rot by fungus, bacterial and mechanical (freeze/thaw from water) action, particularly if in regular contact with moisture, as it might be a fair amount of the time in this application. But I think 1 x 6 WRC would give you 3 to 5 years of service, depending on how much freeze/thaw action your location gets in winter and spring.
posted by paulsc at 1:18 PM on July 3, 2013 [1 favorite]
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by zug at 10:38 PM on July 2, 2013