Help Me Get A Feel For Albuquerque NM
April 23, 2013 5:23 PM   Subscribe

My husband and I will be in Albuquerque for a very short stay this spring. We have discussed the possibility of relocating there, and would like to get the best feel for the town that we can on our limited visit (2 nights and a day). Can anyone suggest some things to see and do?

I got some ideas from this post, but I'm not necessarily interested in the touristy stuff. Bonus points if you can suggest good local bookstores, restaurants, dive bars, movie theaters, dog parks, swap meets, and hiking trails, but I'm also interested in the other side of the coin, the shady side. What should I be aware of as far as crime, crappy neighborhoods, terrible traffic etc. etc.? One last thing, best places to get a physical overall view of the city, scenic overlooks, that kind of thing.

Many thanks in advance for your answers.
posted by WalkerWestridge to Travel & Transportation around Albuquerque, NM (13 answers total) 5 users marked this as a favorite
 
Best answer: To get a good look at the city and its most prominent landmark you should ride the tramway to the top of Sandia mountain. It is worth it.

For local food-Eat at one of the Garcias chains for lunch and Sadies for dinner. The frontier for breakfast and/or lunch is also a great taste of local culture. It will be hot, really hot so eat with caution. But the food is unlike anything else in the world and something I truly miss about New Mexico. My opinion is the best food int he world is made in the Rio Grande Valley and is very indicative of the culture, unique and complex with lots of influence and....just wonderful.

To get an idea of the shadier side drive through some of the neighborhoods between central and I-40. Some are good, some are not. I lived in the barrio (for lack of a better term) on vermont between these two streets. The police tasered to death a very high homeless man on my driveway. He didn't give them much choice and they actually showed some restraint in not just shooting him.

The town has some distinct areas, the west mesa (rio rancho I think) is the new part of town and very chain restaurant suburbany. The valley is the oldest part of town and some of the houses are still adobe. Corrales is the center of this part. The eastern part is split between the military base (kirkland AFB), central, northeast, and the northeast heights. The neighborhoods are mixed but generally get better and ritzier the higher in elevation you go. The southern valley (belen) is also a distinct place(and one I know the least about). It is very car centric and not much of the town is very walkable (the area around old town and the university is, but this isn't very much of the city). The mountain towns on the east side of sandia and the manzanos are also a world apart.

There is crime there, like there is everywhere. It is dry and hot and windy. Sandy and dusty also. You will guy months without rain and you can get sunburned in the winter.

New Mexico is really a unique culture but Albuquerque is kinda a part of it and kinda not. New Mexico culture goes back at least 500 years from when Coronado came through and it is a real melting pot of old spanish, Indian, Mexican and American. There are parts of the state where ownership dates back to the anasazi (some of the pueblo's) and the Spanish crown (Baca Land Grants). It is conservative, not so much in the modern political sense, but in the we are poor and can't take a lot of chances sense. My favorite part of the state is mostly in Catron County, far tot he southwest of Albuquerque and very, very remote. The real New Mexico is very, very influenced by a deep and grinding poverty.

It is beautiful. And very different and very diverse. And big. I don't know where you are locating from but that can be intimidating.
posted by bartonlong at 6:06 PM on April 23, 2013 [5 favorites]


Best answer: We moved to ABQ two years ago and are mostly happy here. To answer your general questions:

1. Hiking. You could easily hit the Foothills trail system. Elena Gallegos would be a good starting point. Carry lots of water (and depending on the season, keep an eye out for rattlesnakes). If you had more time, I'd recommend a hike on the back (East) side of the Sandias. Perhaps the South Crest/Faulty Trail.

2. Movie theatres- There are several mainstream movie theaters around town. The Guild is the artsy theater and the Kimo is the renovated, historic theater that has movies and other shows.

3. Bird Song is a pretty good used bookstore.

4. Albuquerque is super dog friendly, but I've not used the official dog parks. My dog and I spend quite a bit of time in the Foothills trail system as well as the East Mountains. Not being able to walk the dog mid-day from May through October or so (because of scorching pavement) has required some adjustment.

5. Bartonlong's food recommendations are good if you want NM food. Though, others might recommend Mary and Tito's, El Patio (my favorite on a nice evening), or Sophia's Place. Feel free to memail me if you've got specific requests for different kinds of restaurants.

As for the more general parts of your question- ABQ is to me, incredibly neighborhood dependent. Many areas are quite safe (though still prone to property crime). The "bad" neighborhoods, such as the area East of Louisiana Blvd, around Central (old Rt. 66) are pretty rough. The North Valley and Corrales are the most-upscale areas in the non-foothills. The neighborhoods East of Tramway (in the mountains) are the ritziest. I'd recommend walking from the University area East on Central towards Carlisle to get a sense of the only really walking-accessible part of town.

Traffic in Albuquerque isn't too bad (though it gets kind of crazy in the Northern reaches of the city and towards Rio Rancho). It's probably cliche, but I think people here don't drive well. And the drunk driving rates are astounding. I'd not want to live/work any where that required driving I-25 to Paseo Del Norte on a regular basis.

My biggest complaint about the city is the un-walkable nature. We can walk to a couple of grocery stores, a few restaurants and that's about it. And we live in what I'd call one of the more walkable parts of town. Most people we know can't/don't walk to anything. It's really a city of strip malls that you drive to. I will say that from our house, we can easily walk (on nice sidewalks) to several parks along mostly tree-lined streets.

Feel free to get in contact if you'd like to know anything more about the area.
posted by jeffch at 7:35 PM on April 23, 2013 [2 favorites]


Best answer: Do not miss a green chile breakfast burrito from the Frontier and Garcias. I lived on them from 1994 to 2004 and miss them dearly. El Patio's green chile chicken enchilada is also highly recommended.

The view from the top of the Sandias over the city is incredible. The hiking trails mentioned are great, and if you're tired from the hike up the mountain range you can ride the tramway back down to the base. Unless things have changed dramatically in the past ten years, don't waste your money at the High Finance restaurant on the summit.

Biking along the Rio Grande (which means "muddy stream" I think) on the Bosque trail is fun. Watch out for the goat heads that will poke holes in all but the strongest tires.

If you head further north, Ten Thousand Waves just outside of Santa Fe is a very relaxing trip. The Road Runner train is a quick way to get between the cities.
posted by autopilot at 7:44 PM on April 23, 2013 [2 favorites]


Best answer: If I wanted to get a feel for ABQ, I'd walk around the University and Nob Hill, where there are lots of great restaurants and bars, and around Downtown, Huning Highland (east of downtown) and maybe the neighborhoods west and north of Downtown to see some of the variety of interesting urban environments here. As another commenter observed, besides these core areas, the rest of the city is not particularly walkable. But there are also many interesting things to see by car, such as the North Valley (Bookworks is a good bookstore in the NV), great hiking in the foothills on the city's eastern edge and along the Rio Grande (which is mostly a trickle these days, unfortunately) and the touristy but still pretty cool aerial tramway to the top of Sandia Crest. Another area that is worth a drive is the International District, where there are lots of great ethnic restaurants and markets. Transit is pretty good along the Central Ave/Rt 66 corridor, but not so visitor-friendly anywhere else.

I've lived here for about 18 years and love it, but I'm careful walking in most areas of the city after dark -- it can be rough.

You're welcome to me-mail me for more specific recommendations on restaurants, etc.

This thread might also have some good insights.
posted by M.C. Lo-Carb! at 8:05 PM on April 23, 2013 [1 favorite]


Albuquerque is a mile-high city. Your knees may feel wobbly on a two-day visit. Wear hats and drink LOTS of liquids.
posted by Carol Anne at 5:56 AM on April 24, 2013 [1 favorite]


ABQ is a great place, if you're used to making your own fun.

If you're there on a Sunday, breakfast at Chatter (formerly known as "Church of Beethoven." If you're there on Saturday, try the green chile sausage sliders at Slate Street downtown. Memail me if you're looking for something specific.
posted by answergrape at 8:50 AM on April 24, 2013 [1 favorite]


Best answer: I've lived in Albuquerque for a little over five years, and it's probably the most all-around livable of the cities I've lived in, in that it's not so big as to be overcrowded with terrible commutes, or too small to have a thriving art culture or decent restaurants. I guess your experience would depend on your priorities, but I can say that, as someone who tends to get the itch to move to a different city every few years, I still like it here and haven't had much desire to leave.

-- Bookworks is a good local bookstore; when we get prominent authors in town they often show up here.

-- Restaurants: probably the best resource for finding great local eats is Gil Garduño's NM Gastronome. Browsing his site will give you a good overview of area dining choices.

Although obviously New Mexican food is a big deal here (people here are very proud of their regional cuisine), what I did not know before moving here was that ABQ has a large Vietnamese population, and many really good Vietnamese restaurants. Also -- terrific brewpubs (ABQ is on several lists of the country's best beer cities)

-- Movie theaters: The Guild and the Kimo for arthouse/obscure stuff, and of course various stadium multiplexes around town. (Avoid the downtown Century 14.) We do not yet have an IMAX theater.

-- Dog parks: we have a lot of dog parks. One I really like is Roosevelt Park, because it's very green and a little hilly and good for running around with your dog.

-- Swap meets: I haven't been, but there's a big flea market at the fairgrounds every weekend. Personally, I think the best place for treasure hunting is the Goodwill Clearance Center on San Mateo, where they charge by the pound (mail me if you're interested in details about this place). It's a little crazy but can be fun if you're in the right frame of mind.

-- Crime: I don't think Albuquerque is too bad in terms of violent crime, as long as you stay out of certain neighborhoods (Central Ave. east of the university and Nob Hill is particularly sketchy, as is the area around the fairgrounds). Property crime is pretty bad, though, and you'll want to be very careful about leaving valuables in the car and things like that.

-- Traffic: given that every city's drivers are the worst drivers, I will say that ABQ drivers are bad in their own way. Expect a lax attitude as regards most traffic regulations and/or signs (except for one freeway offramp, I have yet to see anyone actually obey a "no turn on red" sign here). I haven't found the drivers any more aggressive/rude than in any other city, except during commute hours.

I don't find rush hour traffic to be very bad compared to cities like L.A. or Seattle, since even when you're stuck in a traffic jam, the city's not that big so distances are pretty short. Outside of commuting hours, traffic is rarely a problem. You can pretty much drive from one end of town to the other in about 15 minutes. One thing that's a little odd is that since the Rio Grande cuts the city in half, there are only a few streets that cross over.

ABQ is pretty typical in that most of the local character is to be found in the town proper, while the suburbs (like on the west side) are a little generic and that's where you'll find most of your chain stores and restaurants. We do have two Whole Foods and two Trader Joe's, so, uh, there's that. Nob Hill can be fun to roam around -- some good antique stores here -- and there are lots of cool little neighborhoods, but it really is not very walkable and the public transportation leaves a lot to be desired. But at least there's ample parking!

One thing I like about ABQ though is that the town does have a lot of character. It's not very touristy -- frankly, it's pretty boring in that sense -- but it is fun to drive around and see all the old buildings and funky storefronts and things. It's not much of a place to be a tourist in, but a pretty cool place to live.

Albuquerque is very laid-back and "manaña," so if you're from a bigger city, expect a much slower pace and a more relaxed attitude towards things, especially in service situations. If you're promised to have something done by a particular date, don't be surprised if you call them up on that date and have the guy on the phone be all, "Ohhhh...yeah, that...." It's not always that way, of course, but fairly often.

Finally, green chile: learn to love it. Much like melange in the Dune novels, it's pretty much in everything, including literally the air (during chile roasting season in the late summer/fall). To be honest, I didn't care much for it initially, but it's grown on me to the extent that I now feel weird if I don't eat either green or red chile at least once a week.
posted by El Sabor Asiatico at 9:40 AM on April 24, 2013 [3 favorites]


Best answer: I grew up in Albuquerque and currently live in DC.

The Nob Hill neighborhood along Central Ave. (formerly old Route 66) has both of the elements you seem to be looking for. The parts of Central near the University and just south of the University downtown are the hippest and most happening parts of the city with lots of good restaurants, including the super famous Frontier, shops, bars and people-watching. The northern section of Central just past Carlisle is very seedy, and many of the seedier shots in Breaking Bad take place here in the dumpy, hourly rate motels.

My personal favorites include: The Guild Cinema independent movie theater, Java Joes, Barelas Coffee, Marble Brewery, Petroglyph National Monument, O'neils, Paleteria Michoacana de Paquime for Mexican style popsicles , and favorite New Mexican place is El Patio.

A couple of other neighborhoods that are pretty neat are Martineztown and Barelas.
posted by forkisbetter at 10:48 AM on April 24, 2013 [2 favorites]


Best answer: I'm in ABQ for the next couple weeks visiting the new g-babe, and I can second the Petroglyph NM as a fun hike. The short loop has 200 petroglyphs; the longer one--2.5m--has 800, according to the ranger. You can also hike cross country in the park.

Walking down by the Rio is great. I've been walking from 5pm till dark most evenings on and around the river. I found these strange dudes last night. This is in the NW off Coors and Montano, so area is pretty safe. A few summers ago, we took the tram up in the heat and hiked around on top. Very refreshing.

Apparently the biking paths don't go completely across the city, but are pretty extensive on both sides (or so I've been told, by son-in-law who bikes to work at UNM.)
posted by BlueHorse at 12:32 PM on April 24, 2013 [1 favorite]


Best answer: I lived in Socorro for a couple of years, and still fly in through ABQ every so often. Usually I'm dying for a green chile fix, and I drive straight from the airport car rental lot to the Frontier for green chile tortilla soup and a couple of tortillas fresh from the press. On my way out, I'll usually make time for coffee or hot chocolate at what used to be my favorite Albuquerque cafe, the Flying Star in Nob Hill.

Seconding recommendations above for the Sandia crest - drive up, hike around, stay for the sunset. Also, drink lots of fluids and keep in mind that you're at a higher altitude than usual. (It doesn't bother me unless I try to run - then I find out that I have no reserve lung capacity left.)

You said you were not necessarily interested in the touristy stuff, but you might consider a couple of the following anyway:
* Visit the Very Large Array, outside Socorro. You might remember the dishes from Contact.
* See the petroglyphs at Three Rivers.
* Check out the ruins at Abo.
* On specific days (first Saturdays in April and October?), you can visit the Trinity Test Site.
* White Sands is an amazing experience.
* Go to Santa Fe for the art galleries and the fabulous food. Maybe the opera, too. Or keep going to Taos. (This is the most typically touristy option.)
posted by RedOrGreen at 1:14 PM on April 24, 2013 [2 favorites]


Best answer: Albuquerque native here. Lots of great suggestions above, but a few others might help.

Grab a free copy of the Weekly Alibi to find out what's happening in the city. We're a small city, but with a little digging you can find plenty of things to do.

We've got some nice museums, and a public transit system that doesn't suck too badly.

Take it easy in town the first few days. Lots of water, sunscreen, and lip balm! Don't drink alcohol in the 48 hours.

Stay away from downtown on weekends. It's not a rough place, but it gets a little drunk and rowdy.

Hiking. There's plenty! The trails along our (rapidly disappearing) river are quite pretty any time of year. The Sandias are the closest mountain range, easy to access, and lovely for a day trip.

Eventually, anyone you meet is going to recommend you go to Tinkertown. Don't miss it!
posted by endotoxin at 1:29 PM on April 24, 2013 [1 favorite]


You absolutely must get a breakfast burrito from Twisters. It's technically fast food but it is oh so delicious. Especially smothered in cheese and green chile.
posted by Sarcasm at 2:28 PM on April 24, 2013 [1 favorite]


Roadrunners. This one (from South America) is eating a lizard...but they eat snakes and scorpions too. And they make a weird clicking noise no bird should really make. You see them all over Albuquerque and the surrounding area.
posted by answergrape at 3:27 PM on April 24, 2013 [1 favorite]


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