A Cincinnati-Detroit extended weekend
April 22, 2013 2:58 PM   Subscribe

Help my roommate and I plan our Cincinnati-Detroit long weekend!

We are driving (so, we'll obviously have a car) from Chicago. It will be our first time in both cities. Our schedule is:

Friday: leave Chicago after work, drive as far as possible toward Cincinnati
Saturday: day in Cincinnati, drive to Detroit after dinner
Sunday: Detroit
Monday: morning-early afternoon in Detroit, back in Chicago by 8-9 pm

Questions:
(1) Our sightseeing interests are architecture, urbanism, public food markets, bookstores (me - I asked these questions) and kitsch, Americana, diners, local history (roommate). We'd also like to check out a car-related museum or site in Detroit. Not really into fine arts or fine-arts museums, although specialty museums are welcome.

What sites would you suggest in both cities? (In particular, tips on bookstores in both cities, and a car-related point in Detroit would be awesome.)

I've already got the Sign Museum and walking across the Suspension Bridge in Cincinnati, as well as viewing Michigan Central Station in Detroit. On that note, I feel like the elephant in the room for my interests in Detroit is all the abandoned architecture but I'm feeling kind of questionable on the ethics and safety of this. Any thoughts?

(2) In terms of eating and drinking, I've gathered that Cincinnati chili and BBQ (Slow's) in Detroit are not to be missed. What are other local foods in which we should partake? Food is a big deal for us so we're willing to go pretty far out of our way for a spectacular meal. In terms of price/ambiance, slightly prefer "diners/dives" to "four-star dining." Is the Findlay market in Cincinnati worth a visit?

For drinking, I love beer. It seems from past Metafilter threads that Motor City Brewery comes recommended; any other spots in both cities?

(3) We have to do the cities in this order, but we are flexible on when we leave Cincinnati for Detroit, i.e. Saturday night or Sunday morning. Does anybody feel strongly about this either way?

And (4) We are thinking of randomly popping over to Windsor for an hour or so (if traffic is not bad), just to say we went to Canada. I know we could go to a casino, but anything you'd suggest based on our interests?
posted by andrewesque to Travel & Transportation (14 answers total) 4 users marked this as a favorite
 
The Henry Ford (formerly the Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village) in Dearborn is fantastic.
posted by HuronBob at 3:09 PM on April 22, 2013 [2 favorites]


Also, going to Windsor for "an hour" may not be possible, the wait at the tunnel/bridge could be that long in both directions, depending on when you plan to cross (also, you'll need a passport or enhanced driver's license to get back into the states).
posted by HuronBob at 3:11 PM on April 22, 2013


I'm not familiar with Findlay market, but you might want to check out Jungle Jim's.
posted by gueneverey at 3:41 PM on April 22, 2013


The Ford Piquette auto plant is where the Model t was created.
The Chrysler museum in Auburn Hills
All the branches of john king books
All the local places Roadfood recommends are good.

The Detroit history museum was being renovated when I was there so I couldn't visit.

The tunnel to Windsor received bomb threats and the new bridge hadn't yet opened so I had to pass on going. I did make a day trip to the escaped slave community in Dresden ON near Port Huron MI.

Detroit is not an abandoned ghost town. Please don't treat it as if it were.
posted by brujita at 3:57 PM on April 22, 2013


Findlay Market is definitely worth a visit. If it were me, I'd wake up on Saturday and head to the market. Wander around, grab coffee and breakfast on the go, see if you can find goetta anywhere. That's about as Cincinnati as it gets, and is more unique than chili IMO. From there, I'd try the American Sign Museum, or the downtown location of the Cincinnati Public Library. I say the library because they recently digitized the 1848 Panorama of Cincinnati, the originals of which are on display at that branch; for local history you could also try the Museum Center (which is itself a glorious space if you like architecture) which has a Cincinnati history section.

So after breakfast and coffee and museums, you could walk across the Suspension Bridge, then head to The Comet in Northside for the best jukebox and burritos; if you like dives and diners you will never want to leave. Northside has a lot of character and a great record store, Shake It. If you are interested in photography at all you might want to check out nearby Spring Grove Cemetery, which is just gorgeous. For other neighborhoods to try, Mt. Adams and Clifton are both popular night spots--Mt. Adams for young professionals and Clifton for college students (or at least that's how it used to be!). The city has also really been pushing a new development, The Banks, as a great night spot, but it is new, and not really historic or in my mind representative of Cincinnati. Regarding beer, hopefully someone else can recommend local breweries; I haven't been back recently enough to speak to any on this list.

Finally, as to leaving: I think it really depends on how much fun you're having on Saturday night. Cincinnati has a lot of heart and a night out on the town can be really fun--but leaving Saturday night would give you more daylight in Detroit. Have fun!
posted by stellaluna at 4:57 PM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]


detroit urbanist here. Unfortunately Sundays in Detroit are pretty sleepy.

Don't feel bad about gawking at the architecture, everyone who's new here does it. Other abandoned highlights include the Packard Plant and Fisher Body 21, both former assembly plants. Auto-related museums include Greenfield Village in Dearborn, although I fear you wouldn't have enough time to make a visit worthwhile. You can also take a tour of the Ford River Rouge plant, which is pretty damn cool actually.

Our public market, Eastern Market, is wild on Saturday mornings but completely dead on Sunday.

Unless you're really into gambling I would avoid the casinos, which are extremely depressing.

You can always hit the DIA, our art museum, which is pretty clutch. It's open 10am to 5pm.

Take a ride around the downtown People Mover, just 75 cents. Architecture highlights include the Renaissance Center (marvel at how impossible it is to navigate) and the Guardian Building (excellent Art Deco building, the interior lobby is not to be missed!!)

Motor City Brewing Co is pretty good. There's also Atwater Brewery.

Belle Isle is a 10 minute drive from downtown, it's a nice place to spend a sunny hour or two.

John K King Books @ 5th and Lafayette is 'the' bookstore in Detroit. Unfortunately they, too, are closed on Sundays. (just realized you will be here Monday, you can go then)

Other food options include Coney Islands downtown (a chili dog is our city's dish) and Avalon in Midtown for delicious baked goods.

I would not go to Windsor. The US Border Patrol at the tunnel/bridge are generally assholes and saying you just 'went to Canada to say you did it' is likely to earn you an 'enhanced' security check. If you do go this route I would make sure to have a Canadian destination in mind.

Feel free to MeMail me if you have additional Detroit related questions.
posted by wikipedia brown boy detective at 5:03 PM on April 22, 2013 [2 favorites]


In Cincinnati, you might enjoy mt. Carmel brewing.

I also highly highly recommend cafe Europa for brunch or lunch.

Cincinnati has a lot of great Indian food as well. I'd eat that before chili, but I never loved the chili. You can get skyline at the grocery store now, so personally I'd skip it.
posted by dpx.mfx at 5:20 PM on April 22, 2013


If you find yourself with more time to spend in Windsor, the Canadian Club tour is about a 5 min. drive from the tunnel, takes 90 min., costs $8 CDN, and is totally worth it. You get to learn about bootlegging across the Detroit River during Prohibition, tour an old building and taste whisky. And, yes, for the border crossing you need a passport or enhanced license, it's good to have clear plan for your trip, and be ready to have your car searched and answer oddball questions with patience. (Also, it's a $4.75 toll there, and a $4.50 toll back.)
posted by limeswirltart at 5:43 PM on April 22, 2013


Some suggestions for Cincinnati:

Findlay Market is absolutely worth a visit. Great food, great people watching, it's one of the most interesting and diverse places in Cincinnati.

The 21c hotel just opened, and they have an interesting museum that is free and open 24 hours.

I love the Cincinnati Museum Center. You won't have time to see all the museums and do other things in one day, but I would consider maybe driving to it, parking in the free 15 minute parking up front and going in because the interior is incredible.

Over-the-Rhine is the "hot" neighborhood these days. Washington Park was recently renovated and is very nice.

Ohio Book Store is supposed to be great.

There is so much good food in Cincinnati--people always talk about Montgomery Inn but I actually think it's overrated. One of my favorite places for cheap, fast, divey food is Alabama Fish Bar. It's so bad for you and so damn good.

A new bar called Yard House recently opened on the Banks and they have 160 beers on tap. I haven't been there so I can't personally vouch for it.

I like pretty much all the local beers, but when I go out I usually order a Christian Moerlein OTR, which you can find at pretty much any bar. Other good local beers: Blank Slate, Mad Tree, Mt. Carmel, etc.

I'm a local so feel free to message me if you have other questions or want more ideas.
posted by girlmightlive at 6:35 PM on April 22, 2013


Oh! If you just want to duck into Canada to say you've been there, take the Transit Windsor Tunnel Bus. You get to avoid the hassle and delay of driving over. $4 each way, runs every half hour.
posted by limeswirltart at 7:01 PM on April 22, 2013


Great suggestions for Cincinnati so far. I'd add:

Carew Tower - go up to the observation deck; great panoramic views of the river, the city, the hills.

Tucker's - excellent, local, beloved.

Over-the-Rhine - (from Wikipedia) "It is believed to be the largest, most intact urban historic district in the United States."

Findlay Market for sure. Honestly, I'd skip the chili if I were you, or if you really feel like you must, go to Camp Washington.

Cincinnati has such an amazing food scene. MetaFilter's own tizzie is my go-to expert on food matters in Cincinnati. I used to write (about food) for the alt-magazine she writes for currently (about food!). But I can definitely recommend a few "dives" for you: Terry's Turf Club, Zip's, The Echo. For severely excellent tacos: La Mexicana, Taqueria Mercado, Django, and Tacocracy. Those last two are in Northside, as is Melt and one of my favorite bars, The Northside Tavern.

But I cannot, in good conscience, go without recommending Jean-Robert's Table, Senate, and LaPoste.
posted by cooker girl at 7:19 PM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]


Just as a thought, don't forget audiobooks or something to listen to on the drive. The drive straight up Ohio might be the most boring drive there is :)
posted by getawaysticks at 6:48 AM on April 23, 2013


Henry Ford Museum and Greenfield Village are not to be missed. In fact, if it was me, I'd skip both Cincy and Motown and just go straight there for the weekend.

But if you are determined to spend half your weekend driving across Indiana and Western Ohio. . . .

Skip the chili. Cincy style chili is wonderful comfort food if you grew up with it, but it generally disappoints the casual visitor, I find. If you decide to follow Anthony Bourdain's advice rather than mine, go to Skyline and get a 5-way. Gold Star is a poor second choice. (Also there is no point to it whatsoever if you wish to avoid processed beef.)

Cincy chili was invented by a Greek immigrant, but Cincinnati culture has been heavily influenced by Germans from the start. Why not try some German cuisine?
Mecklenburg Gardens
Hofbrauhaus (across the river in Newport, KY)

Here's a Beer Guide to Cincinnati. When I was young, it was Hudepohl, Wiedemanns, Burger, and Shoenling -- none of these were great choices, but at least they were locally brewed. Now, like Rolling Rock over in PA, they're all merely 'brands' of Big Beer(™) .

Cincinnati is the Queen City. Consider a ride on a riverboat queen.

Cincinnati was a major station on the Underground Railroad. Here's the National Underground Railroad Freedom Center in Cincy, and the Rankin House in nearby Ripley.

When I was a kid, the Cincinnati Museum Center (mentioned above) was Union Terminal, where my grandmother caught the train to visit her other daughter in Chi.

I also have fond memories of the Krohn Conservatory in Eden Park.

Here's "Art and Architecture in the (Cincinnati) Parks".

Speaking of unusual architecture, consider a visit to Loveland Castle. Built by hand (more or less ) by one man (more or less) over five decades using stones extracted from the nearby Little Miami River. Harry lived there until 1981, the project incomplete -- it's now a museum of sorts.

In passing, the Air Force Museum is on your way from Cincinnati to Detroit. (We wuz robbed! One of the Space Shuttles should be here!)

You'll also be passing this huge mosque as you round Toledo (Perrysburg) on I-675.

Finally, between Dayton and Toledo, you'll be passing through the far East and North remnant of the Great Prarie that we generally think of as lying west of the Mississippi. It wouldn't have been here at all if not for the concerted actions of generations of Native Americans, and now through the concerted actions of generations of settlers, it's disappearing. Something to think about on that long boring drive that's round on both ends and high (and flat) in the middle.
 
posted by Herodios at 12:03 PM on April 23, 2013


You've got lots of good suggestions for Cincinnati. I'll add that if you will be walking across the suspension bridge then you will only be a block or two away from the Moerlein Lager House which as about a dozen or so of their beers on tap along with an excellent selection of other craft beers. Also within a block or so is the aforementioned Yard House. It is a chain but it does have 160+ beers on tap which include many from local breweries.

As for food you could do a lot worst the Terry's Turf Club for burgers. They have a large following and the restaurant is in an old house with a lot of vintage neon signage.
posted by mmascolino at 7:49 PM on April 28, 2013


« Older A Mother Is.....   |   Being solicited by colleague to become a premier... Newer »
This thread is closed to new comments.