We're headed to Chile and Argentina... any must-see recommendations?
April 15, 2013 11:14 AM Subscribe
The boyfriend and I are vacationing in Santiago, Valparaiso, and the Lake District (Pucon, Chiloe, San Martin de los Andes, and Bariloche) for about two weeks in May. We'd appreciate restaurant, food, and sightseeing advice from folks who've lived or traveled to any of these spots! We like pretty much any kind of food, we love checking out off-the-beaten path museums and tourist attractions. We're outdoorsy, but we won't be camping and we won't have time to do anything more than a day hike, probably. We'll have a car in the Lake District. Thank you!
In Santiago, I'd recommend a visit to La Chascona, Pablo Neruda's house. Even if you know nothing about Neruda, the house and gardens are quirky and beautiful. One of my favourite places ever.
Mercado Central, the fish market, is good for a look around and, of course, for eating - there are restaurants in the middle and wet fish stalls down the sides.
Local restaurant chain Liguria is a great place to eat. I've only been to the one at Manuel Montt, which is fabulous to look at too, if you get a table in the indoor patio area.
The Metro in Santiago is cheap, clean, safe and easy - I'd recommend it as a way to get around.
I love Santiago - lucky you!
posted by penguin pie at 11:54 AM on April 15, 2013
Mercado Central, the fish market, is good for a look around and, of course, for eating - there are restaurants in the middle and wet fish stalls down the sides.
Local restaurant chain Liguria is a great place to eat. I've only been to the one at Manuel Montt, which is fabulous to look at too, if you get a table in the indoor patio area.
The Metro in Santiago is cheap, clean, safe and easy - I'd recommend it as a way to get around.
I love Santiago - lucky you!
posted by penguin pie at 11:54 AM on April 15, 2013
I visited that area and nearly all those places a few years ago, and in retrospect I wish that we'd skipped Chiloe in favor of having more time in San Martin de los Andes or Bariloche (or even Pucon). There wasn't that much to see and it took a ton of time to drive/ferry to and around the island, it just felt like we burned a lot of time for an experience that was nice but definitely not worth it. Bariloche, San Martin, and Pucon on the other hand were all stellar.
posted by iminurmefi at 12:28 PM on April 15, 2013
posted by iminurmefi at 12:28 PM on April 15, 2013
I haven't seen La Chascona, but I really, really loved Isla Negra (where Neruda was until recently buried), which is an easy day trip from Valparaiso. Beautiful.
posted by pitrified at 1:30 PM on April 15, 2013
posted by pitrified at 1:30 PM on April 15, 2013
Haha, well let me just chime in here and say that I haven't been to Isla Negra or La Chascona (which is guided tours only so you'll probably have to get tickets a couple hours in advance, especially if you want the tour in English) but I really enjoyed La Sebastiana (Neruda's House in Valparaiso.) You probably don't want to go to all three, but it sounds like you'd be happy at any of them.
Santiago:
Walk through Mercado Central, but it's a tourist trap. I wouldn't recommend eating there. Instead go across the river to the gargantuan labyrinth that is La Vega Market and get some cheap authentic Chilean food (cazuela! so good.) or go to Providencia if you want fancy food.
The metro is awesome though insanely crowded between 6-9 in the mornings and evenings during the work week. Get a bip card (like 1500 pesos) and recharge it for convenience. It's also the only way you can take the bus! Google maps has the bus/metro planning on it now so don't hesitate to use the buses as well.
I highly recommend going to Monumento Natural El Morado in Cajón del Maipo. It's kind of a pain to get to (have to get a 7:30ish bus out of Santiago) and it takes all day, but it's really beautiful and rivals much of what I saw in the South.
The Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos is basically the story of what happened with Pinochet in the 70s and it's fascinating and powerful.
Cerro San Cristobal is great and recommended. Less visited is Cerro Santa Lucia, but I like it even more. It's a much smaller hill but the view is almost as good. Darwin visited there and there's a plaque with some of his writing. It's also in a great neighborhood (right between the sister barrios of Bellas Artes and Lastaria) with lots of bars and restaurants and right next to Parque Forestal which is a stunning park that will make you feel like you're in Paris. A couple museums are in there and then you're just south of Bellavista where you can hike San Cristobal or go to the discotheques. Also in that neighborhood, Thelonious is great if you like jazz.
Pucon:
The volcano is really tourist but it's a blast. Definitely do it. Don't just go with the first or the cheapest tour you find but also, it's not worth paying an extra 10000 pesos for a small group, like I did. Once you get going, there's so many people, you're basically in one big group.
Huerquehue Lakes is a great hike. Take the Bus Caburgua (Uruguay 540) and take it to Guardería Tinquilco. There's a couple every day but I recommend getting the first one you can. It's a serious uphill climb but I saw families young and old doing it. Really beautiful, grand vistas, and some swimming when you get to the top, if you'd like.
I also did the Villarrica Traverse which was great but not sure it'd be worth it just for a day hike.
Bariloche:
I cannot recommend Penthouse 1004 enough. A converted penthouse on the 10th floor- the view is spectacular, the staff is really cool and there's fantastic homemade bread for breakfast.
Go to the Club Andino Bariloche office and get a bus ticket to Pampa Linda for the morning. They are also great for answering any hiking questions. There's a number of hikes you could do from Pampa Linda. Refugio Otto Meiling is fantastic but exhausting if you do it in one day. Salto Garganta del Diablo would be a better bet. The hike is mostly up a road so it's not the greatest but you go right next to a glacier and the waterfalls at the top are spectacular.
There's a dude who makes Choripan and burgers on the street in the plaza. They're really good and cheap.
I only spent a couple of hours in San Martin de los Andes but it seemed really overpriced and touristy. I'd consider skipping it and adding a night or two of hiking. In Bariloche, on the Nahuel Huapi Traverse, you can just hike from one refugio to the next (i.e. you won't need tents) and it's easy to get out at just about any point. Talk to CAB about it, if you're interested.
FOOD YOU MUST EAT IN CHILE
I'll let you google them for descriptions but let me say that they are both essential to knowing Chilean culture and they're just delicious.
Chorrillana
Completo (go to Domino in Santiago, it's a chain but really good)
Cazuela (so simple, so amazing)
Choripan
to drink:
mote con huesillo (non-alcoholic, have one after you summit Cerro San Cristobal)
terremoto (very alcoholic, be careful with these. La Piojera is the classic place to go to and it's fun but don't go at night.)
michelada (actually mexican originally but I'd never had one until I moved here, they're great.)
MeMail me if you have any more questions, I live in Santiago.
Have fun!
posted by saul wright at 7:13 PM on April 15, 2013 [1 favorite]
Santiago:
Walk through Mercado Central, but it's a tourist trap. I wouldn't recommend eating there. Instead go across the river to the gargantuan labyrinth that is La Vega Market and get some cheap authentic Chilean food (cazuela! so good.) or go to Providencia if you want fancy food.
The metro is awesome though insanely crowded between 6-9 in the mornings and evenings during the work week. Get a bip card (like 1500 pesos) and recharge it for convenience. It's also the only way you can take the bus! Google maps has the bus/metro planning on it now so don't hesitate to use the buses as well.
I highly recommend going to Monumento Natural El Morado in Cajón del Maipo. It's kind of a pain to get to (have to get a 7:30ish bus out of Santiago) and it takes all day, but it's really beautiful and rivals much of what I saw in the South.
The Museo de la Memoria y los Derechos Humanos is basically the story of what happened with Pinochet in the 70s and it's fascinating and powerful.
Cerro San Cristobal is great and recommended. Less visited is Cerro Santa Lucia, but I like it even more. It's a much smaller hill but the view is almost as good. Darwin visited there and there's a plaque with some of his writing. It's also in a great neighborhood (right between the sister barrios of Bellas Artes and Lastaria) with lots of bars and restaurants and right next to Parque Forestal which is a stunning park that will make you feel like you're in Paris. A couple museums are in there and then you're just south of Bellavista where you can hike San Cristobal or go to the discotheques. Also in that neighborhood, Thelonious is great if you like jazz.
Pucon:
The volcano is really tourist but it's a blast. Definitely do it. Don't just go with the first or the cheapest tour you find but also, it's not worth paying an extra 10000 pesos for a small group, like I did. Once you get going, there's so many people, you're basically in one big group.
Huerquehue Lakes is a great hike. Take the Bus Caburgua (Uruguay 540) and take it to Guardería Tinquilco. There's a couple every day but I recommend getting the first one you can. It's a serious uphill climb but I saw families young and old doing it. Really beautiful, grand vistas, and some swimming when you get to the top, if you'd like.
I also did the Villarrica Traverse which was great but not sure it'd be worth it just for a day hike.
Bariloche:
I cannot recommend Penthouse 1004 enough. A converted penthouse on the 10th floor- the view is spectacular, the staff is really cool and there's fantastic homemade bread for breakfast.
Go to the Club Andino Bariloche office and get a bus ticket to Pampa Linda for the morning. They are also great for answering any hiking questions. There's a number of hikes you could do from Pampa Linda. Refugio Otto Meiling is fantastic but exhausting if you do it in one day. Salto Garganta del Diablo would be a better bet. The hike is mostly up a road so it's not the greatest but you go right next to a glacier and the waterfalls at the top are spectacular.
There's a dude who makes Choripan and burgers on the street in the plaza. They're really good and cheap.
I only spent a couple of hours in San Martin de los Andes but it seemed really overpriced and touristy. I'd consider skipping it and adding a night or two of hiking. In Bariloche, on the Nahuel Huapi Traverse, you can just hike from one refugio to the next (i.e. you won't need tents) and it's easy to get out at just about any point. Talk to CAB about it, if you're interested.
FOOD YOU MUST EAT IN CHILE
I'll let you google them for descriptions but let me say that they are both essential to knowing Chilean culture and they're just delicious.
Chorrillana
Completo (go to Domino in Santiago, it's a chain but really good)
Cazuela (so simple, so amazing)
Choripan
to drink:
mote con huesillo (non-alcoholic, have one after you summit Cerro San Cristobal)
terremoto (very alcoholic, be careful with these. La Piojera is the classic place to go to and it's fun but don't go at night.)
michelada (actually mexican originally but I'd never had one until I moved here, they're great.)
MeMail me if you have any more questions, I live in Santiago.
Have fun!
posted by saul wright at 7:13 PM on April 15, 2013 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Thanks, everyone! These are great ideas. We'll make sure to use some of your suggestions! :-)
posted by b_alex_a at 7:19 AM on April 16, 2013
posted by b_alex_a at 7:19 AM on April 16, 2013
Bariloche:
For ice cream, you will find simply the best Dulce de Leche ice cream on earth at Jauja.
Do remember to taste the chocolate at Mamushka.
Do a small trek to the summit of Cerro Otto and rent a bike the next day to ride the Circuito Chico (~60km). Do not forget sun block, I came back with a massive sun burns.
posted by racingjs at 9:46 AM on April 16, 2013
For ice cream, you will find simply the best Dulce de Leche ice cream on earth at Jauja.
Do remember to taste the chocolate at Mamushka.
Do a small trek to the summit of Cerro Otto and rent a bike the next day to ride the Circuito Chico (~60km). Do not forget sun block, I came back with a massive sun burns.
posted by racingjs at 9:46 AM on April 16, 2013
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Bariloche was an adventure, full of Agentine tourists from Buenos Aires, which made things utterly insane, but awesome; definitely see if you can get a lake boat tour- you are right on the edge of Patagonia and the scenery is beautiful. The traffic was surprisingly terrible there. There is a gorgeous cathedral in Bariloche that is worth a stop, and we found Bariloche to be walkable if you needed to get places. Keep in mind that Bariloche is in Argentina, so you need to make sure your rental car can get you there (you need paperwork for your car if you plan on crossing the border and the border crossings are a little hair raising if you do not speak fluent Spanish. That border crossing does look like it is straight out of Jurassic park(Puyehe National Forest) and I wished we had more time to hang around there and go for a few hikes there.
Over all, it was a lovely trip- roads were perfectly fine in Chile.
If you PM me, I can dig up my itinerary.
posted by larthegreat at 11:31 AM on April 15, 2013 [1 favorite]