Artisanal ham: From where, and then what?

February 12, 2013 6:40 AM

Can you teach me what I need to know about artisanal ham? I feel like I've got the eating part down already.

I would like to acquire some artisanal ham, the kind you can order at Momofuku Ssam Bar. But there's only two of us to eat it, so I'm looking for small quantities, presliced, and then hoping to keep the leftovers awhile. These guys will sell me as little as a couple of pounds' worth. I could use a little help on how long it can be refrigerated before it's no good, and -- if freezing it is ok -- whether it will taste anywhere near the same. Also gladly accepting any recommendations for other sources; I've hunted around a bit locally, and no one seems to have any right now. Thanks for any guidance.

posted by troywestfield to food & drink (7 answers total)

I think what you want is a unrehydrated country ham - which is air dried like prosciutto, unlike the cooked hams you linked to. Here is one source.
posted by subtle-t at 6:45 AM on February 12

I used to buy the cured meat for a specialty food shop, including artisanal dry-cured hams.

What you're looking for includes country ham (southern US), speck & prosciutto di parma (both Italian), jambon (French), jamon (spanish), and Black Forest Ham (aka schwarzwalder schinken, German).

These are air-cured, dried hams, the recipes of which predate refridgeration, in some cases by centuries. Because of having been cured and having low water-activity levels, these products don't need to be refrigerated at all and indeed I personally feel that refrigeration speeds up their drying out.

Basically three things can happen to make them go bad:
1) the fat can go rancid, which will show itself by having a bright yellow color and a distinctively off flavor.
2) the meat itself can dry out and become tough, which is not to say that it is inedible or will hurt you, but it will not be the rich, pleasurable experience that you want. (If this happens, I recommend adding the dry bits to soup where they will add salt and delicious hammy richness.)
3) bacteria from the human skin can colonize the surface of the ham. This is not the end of the world -- you will first see a faintly white bloom on the surfaces that you or others have touched, and if you cut that surface off it will not be a problem. If you let it go for a while the bloom will intensify and eventually turn green and yellow and penetrate into the ham: this is not good as it will give off-flavors, start to smell, and then go bad.

If you're buying in bulk but consuming it at household speeds you will want to buy the ham in a piece and not sliced. Ideally you would buy a leg with the bone still in and a stand for cutting it, because the bone will help to regulate the moisture in the ham even after you've started cutting into it. Make sure you have at least one good sharp knife. If this is the route you decide to go, feel free to memail me for advice about slicing ham by hand -- there are some tricks to it and it's important to start right.

Of the US-produced hams I am a big fan of SW Edward's from Surrey, VA, although Herb Ekhouse over at La Quercia makes a good prosciutto-style ham as well. Where are you located? If you're located in a city with a decent specialty food shop I'd bet they can order you a big unsliced piece or even a whole leg if you're into it.
posted by gauche at 7:05 AM on February 12 [2 favorites]

Your Momofuku reference leads me to believe you are in NYC? If so you can buy sliced Benton's, Edward's. as well as a few other brands of traditionally cured & smoked country hams at Heritage Foods in the Essex Street Market.

Once it is sliced it needs to be refrigerated and eaten in a few days. I would not freeze ham unless I planned on using it in cooked preparations.
posted by JPD at 8:17 AM on February 12

I'd also add - the momofuku hams all see smoke, whereas Jambon de Bayonne, Proscuitto and Jamon do not. They are sort of different animals. Personally I think Jamon Iberico Bellota is the best around. If that interests you, and again, you are in NYC your best purchasing option is Despana.
posted by JPD at 8:20 AM on February 12

I've been very happy with Burger's Smokehouse for the quality of their products and service. They have country hams that come in smaller quantity and/or piece-packaged that might suit your needs. I haven't tried these myself, but they seemed to fit your desires.
posted by plinth at 8:29 AM on February 12

Thanks for all the great answers. I went down to Despana, because who doesn't love jamon iberico bellota, but it was $200 a pound. So I bought some jamon serrano there, which we're enjoying, but I think I'll try Essex Street Market next.
posted by troywestfield at 6:40 AM on February 15

yeah - that's sort of what it costs. Even in Spain its crazy expensive - but its so rich you only need like 100g for two people.
posted by JPD at 7:04 AM on February 15