Vino, por favor.

January 27, 2013 1:52 PM

I'm in Buenos Aires, Argentina. It is just lovely. But where can I buy wine?

I've has excellent wine at restaurants and found one good wine shop in Recoleta, but I don't think I quite understand how to buy it. Do I need to go to a wine store to get good wine, or can I get it in a grocery store? How much should a decent to good bottle cost in each place? What are the general hours of such places? Can one generally buy a bottle of beer or wine to go from a bar or restaurant (and if so, how would I ask for that in Spanish?)

Also, I'm currently staying on Republica Dominicana and Bulnes in Palermo, if anyone has specific places around here to recommend.

posted by cheerwine to food & drink (6 answers total)

I lived about 4 blocks further south down Bulnes for 2 months a few years ago--great neighborhood. You may have better taste than I, but at the time it seemed like I could reliably by any Argentine wine at or above the 5$ point in the grocery and basically like it, and if I spent $10 it was something special. Not sure what the economy has done to domestic wine prices, though.

In that area, I remember any wine shops. There was a great parilla place around the corner, but it was great because it was around the corner, you know? A fancier one not far was/is Don Julio, at Gurruchaga 2100, which I remember being great but not necessarily that great for the pricing.

If you like theatre, I loved the small theatre scene all around Abasto, and if you have the time I'd just say start going to stuff.

I'll look forward nostalgically to more authoritative answers!
posted by Mngo at 2:17 PM on January 27

If you're talking about buying yourself a couple of bottles to drink whilst watching the TV then you don't need anything more complicated than a supermarket. Either a big chain (there is a big COTO on Arenales and Bulnes about 5 blocks from your flat, although there may well be one closer) or a local supermarket, known here as Chinos (because the owners are always Chinese - they can be a descriptive lot, the Argentines). Off the top of my head I don't know where your nearest one is but I live 10 blocks from you and there 3 within one block of my flat so one can't be far. Taking away from a bar is not really done here - possible but it would be expensive compared to the same product in a Chino.

Chinos will always have a good selection, as big as a chain in most cases and some people who pay more attention to these things than I do say the Chinos sell some wines cheaper. Both chains and chinos will be open from about 10am until 10pm, Mon - Sun. I'm no connoisseur but I like a Malbec and look for bottles starting around the 25 peso mark. Benjamin by Nieto Senetiner is a current favourite.

If you need more expert guidance then you should try one of the many wine tastings around the city, I've enjoyed both Anuva and 0800 Vino which is primarily a wine store but they also organise tastings. Both operate in English.
posted by jontyjago at 3:22 PM on January 27

I bought random bottles of wine at the Supermercado Coto for 3 months and never had a bad one. Bought a lot at the local Chino (god that name is so racist) too.
posted by zug at 3:46 PM on January 27

If you're looking for GOOD wine, of course you go to a wine shop. There's extremely drinkable wine in supermarkets, but good wine is an entirely different matter.
posted by FlamingBore at 7:05 PM on January 27

There is a useful thread over at Lonely Planet and another at TripAdvisor (that, like jontyjago, recommends Anuva and 0800 Vino).

If you want a guide to some highly rated Argentinian wines that are internationally available then Decanter is a good place to look (you can filter by country) although there will be many very good wines that aren't produced in enough quantities for export or who just sell domestically.

Decanter highly rates Bodega Raffy Réserve Malbec 2010 ($30), Bodegas Salentein Portillo Malbec 2011 ($14), Bodegas Santa Ana Unánime 2007 ($21), Domaine Vistalba Viñalba Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 ($14), Trapiche Gran Medalla Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 ($30) and Zuccardi Emma Zuccardi, Bonarda 2010 ($28) (all reds) and Amalaya 2011 ($15) (white) [All prices are UK retail prices. They should be substantially cheaper in Argentina].
posted by MuffinMan at 3:47 AM on January 28

Thanks everyone! We tried to go to the COTO on Bulnes, but it closed at 9 on Sundays. The supermercado (Chino, I guess) across the street had a good selection for cheap. We took your advice, jontyjago, and got a bottle of the Benjamin by Nieto Senetiner.
posted by cheerwine at 8:39 AM on January 28