How can I mattify my skin without making the flakiness more obvious?

October 16, 2012 9:49 PM

Makeup Filter: What are my alternatives to powder when trying to mattify my shiny skin? (On a drugstore budget)

I have really horrible skin, and am trying to find the simplest makeup routine I can to just make it look presentable, and like I am trying to be polished and clean, I don't even care about trying to look glamourous or flawless. And I really can't spend a fortune on a million expensive makeup items either. I'm hoping to find just one product to add to my routine of concealer alone.

I used to always use pressed powder, full face foundation, or both. But whenever I do this it actually accentuates dryness and flakiness in my skin and really isn't much of an improvement over no makeup - it probably looks worse actually.

So lately I have just been dabbing foundation or concealer on the acne spots on my face. Even though this doesn't cover the blemishes perfectly, it at least tones them down - good enough for me. But I'm not sure what to do with the rest of my face. If I don't put on powder it looks shiny. Even when I dab away any oil it still looks like it really needs powder to mattify the skin. What I've always thought of as the solution for this is -- simple powder. But since my skin has been dry and flaky, I haven't found a single powder - including bare minerals powder foundation , loose powder and pressed powder - that doesn't accentuate the dryness of my skin. I have read some places that you can just use foundation without powder, but the foundations that I have used always look wet or shiny without powder. I also really don't want to get too many colors in the mix to be honest. The more colors I add, the more chances that I look orange - this often happens to me. Which is why I really wish I could just find an alternative to translucent powder that doesn't highlight flakes.

I know that I need to moisturize to deal with the dryness, I have been experimenting with this, and hopefully soon I will have my skin more hydrated. But my skin seems to be resistant to moisturizing, what I am really hoping to find is a makeup plan that works while I'm waiting to get the dryness issue fixed. Is it possible to just use primer without powder or foundation? I have never used primer, because I always thought of it as an expensive extra step that I didn't need with makeup. Would this fill what I'm looking for? Mattify without creasing or flaking with the flakes on my skin? Can I even get primer that is made by Cover Girl or some other cheap brand? Or is it only sold by the high end brands like Mac or SmashBox?

What other things could I apply, hopefully colorless or very transparent/light, that would mattify? Makeup or some other home substitute for makeup. I remember once when my face was going through an extrememly oily phase I read about using milk of magnesia to absorb oil. I wore this under my makeup daily for awhile and it did seem to remove some of the excess shine. I would be happy to find any non makeup alternatives like this as well. Any ideas are really appreciated!

posted by chocolatemilkshakes to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (35 answers total)

CoverGirl Smoothers SPF 15 Tinted Moisturizer is a cheaper, pretty common way to smooth out your skin tone and provide some coverage. Make sure you let it dry.

I would spend a little more on powder - like Clinique brand. I like their superpowder.
posted by quodlibet at 9:55 PM on October 16, 2012

Just in terms of powder, I've found pressed powder to be downright awful, usually making my skin look worse and promoting bacteria growth (and I have pretty decent skin). My routine is now loose powder -- I use this kind (Physician's formula mineral wear talc-free mineral loose powder) and very little goes on the brush (you knock off the excess before brushing it over your face). When I wear makeup, I put it on in the morning after I've dried my face and before it's exposed to humidity. It helps especially in the summer months, when it is pretty humid where I live.
posted by DoubleLune at 9:56 PM on October 16, 2012 [1 favorite]

Seconding loose powder (applied lightly, with a brush, just where you need it) rather than pressed powder. L'oreal's Translucide line is good for this. Also, carry blotting papers with you during the day (they're available in various brands).
posted by scody at 10:04 PM on October 16, 2012 [1 favorite]

Oh, and L'oreal also has a face primer, too.
posted by scody at 10:07 PM on October 16, 2012

Revlon and Rimmel (UK brand) both make primer, about $10-12. You only need a tiny amount, so it lasts decently. It fills in pores, so when you apply foundation/powder it has a nice smooth surface to stick to. I also have very dry skin, so having something for my make up to stick to made a big difference in getting it to last all day...which does help with shine. I like physicians formula. Lush is more pricy, but very good stuff, and they just started making cosmetics. Good luck!
posted by jrobin276 at 10:16 PM on October 16, 2012 [1 favorite]

Exfoliate! My skin is similar, with added bonus eczema, and if I don't exfoliate (aka normal routine) then powder, with or without foundation, accentuates the scaly bits. I had an enormously bad run last week after trying a BB cream and exfoliated so I could at least not have scaly bits under the new BB cream I'm wearing as sunscreen and it worked really well. I also slathered on Bepanthen/pawpaw ointment afterwards.

I am totally going to try loose powder though - I usually carry a pressed powder compact for makeup on the go.
posted by geek anachronism at 10:20 PM on October 16, 2012 [5 favorites]

Another vote for a quality loose powder -- it may be a little more expensive but it's worth it. I like the brand called Everyday Minerals. They have good sized samples for only the cost of shipping.
posted by icanbreathe at 10:27 PM on October 16, 2012

Moisturizing may help somewhat, but what you really need is to exfoliate with a microfiber cloth to remove the flaky skin.
Some primers "mattify", but many just use that to mean they prevent oil breakthrough on your face, and are drying as a consequence (which is not what you need if your skin is dry and flaky). The best matte finish comes from powder. Use a puff to press and apply because brushes can lift flaky skin and make it more obvious. A powder that contains silk draws moisture out of the air to your skin and can help with dryness. Silk Naturals is an independent mineral makeup company that sells foundations you mix for color yourself. The foundation sample kit is $3.95 (their vegan products do not contain silk, BTW). They also have what the call "Blur" powders, which can be used as a finish or primer powder. These contain the silica spheres that are in a lot of "high definition" finishing powders that more expensive brands sell. Samples are $1.25. They are tinted or untinted and have silk in them as well. Really good for a matte finish if you use a light touch and have exfoliated- many mattifying products show every dry spot by nature of the ingredients, I'm afraid. I've used Silk Naturals products for many years now, and they are very high quality and well priced (I sadly bought into the hype in a moment of weakness and bought some MAC Studio Fix Powder Plus Foundation, and it is mostly talc and does not even remotely compare to SN in quality or coverage). Another independent mineral makeup company that uses silk in their "Cashmere" foundation is Lumiere Cosmetics. They also sell reasonably priced samples and their quality is good. I tend to buy from SN because it's very easy to read ingredients for products, and their eye shadows are excellent (possibly not relevant to your interests). At the least, they have a few products you can try for very little investment.
posted by oneirodynia at 10:29 PM on October 16, 2012 [3 favorites]

Best answer: These work well to absorb oil/mitigate shininess throughout the day, and are supposed to be able to be used even when you are wearing makeup without removing it.
posted by catatethebird at 10:43 PM on October 16, 2012 [1 favorite]

It's not make-up, but these specific blotting sheets are fantastic. Other blotting sheets either don't work as well or they also deposit powder. These just soak up excess oil when you aren't wearing make-up, or they absorb oil off make-up without disturbing coverage.

On preview, cross posting with catatethebird!
posted by quince at 10:46 PM on October 16, 2012

Exfoilate! No, really! (Also exfoliate your lips with a toothbrush if you have trouble with lipsticks too.)

I have flaky/oily skin too and actually, what's worked best for me is Maybelline DreamMatte Mousse. It's very cheap so it's easy to try out if you feel like it. The difference between it and other foundations is that it's a "mousse" that's made out of powder, so it's not as dry as powder but not at all oily or shiny. I think it is probably a toss-up as to whether it will work for each individual person... but for me, it's been a drugstore godsend. It even covers my very bad pores to an impressive extent!
posted by stoneandstar at 11:02 PM on October 16, 2012 [3 favorites]

I recommend Cover Girl & Olay serum primer - it's a small purple pump thing you can get at Target. And clinique's Superpowder Double face makeup is the perfect creamy powder. If you buy at Sephora or Nordstrom, you should have no problem returning it if it doesn't work for you.
posted by peep at 11:15 PM on October 16, 2012

I think what you want is a BB cream. It's a moisturizer, primer and foundation all in one. You can get drugstore brands of BB cream (Maybelleine and CoverGirl both make them, and, I think, L'Oreal). Reviews here if you need help deciding. Garnier evidently does one with a mattifying finish and others probably do, too.

If you don't like the finish of a foundation/cream then you will need to put powder on to mattify. Use loose translucent powder with a big brush. Lightly put the brush in the powder, tap off the excess, lightly dust on your face. Using pressed powder with the pad/puff/sponge it comes with will make your skin look bad and emphasize flakes because you end up putting on too much powder.

I've never used a primer that caused "dewey" foundation to appear matte. If your skin produces oil throughout the day then there is probably nothing you can put on your face in the morning that will keep it matte all day long (including powder--I only get a few hours before I start to shine). I use blotting paper a couple times a day to get around this.
posted by Polychrome at 1:30 AM on October 17, 2012 [1 favorite]

Also, I should've said that I don't think primer is what you're after. Primer is usually used to make foundation apply more smoothly, look better and last longer. While there are mattifying primers they generally leave kind of a slick texture on the face and don't really soak in. A lot of people don't like primers for this reason--they make them feel more oily (regardless of whether they look oily or not). A mattifying tinted moisturizer or BB cream would probably work a lot better. These shouldn't dry you out because they are still moisturizers.
posted by Polychrome at 1:36 AM on October 17, 2012 [1 favorite]

I'm an esthetician. While I can't speak to your skin specifically without analyzing it I can answer more generally. It sounds like you need to exfoliate. One thing though, if you have a lot of acne you shouldn't use something like an abrasive cloth or scrub. They can aggravate the problems. You need to use a enzyme exfoliant. It's important to find one that will work for you. Also important, don't over exfoliate. Most exfoliants should only be used a couple times a week.

Feel free to email me if you have questions or want more information.
posted by the pink tree at 1:40 AM on October 17, 2012 [2 favorites]

Best answer: Nthing using a very soft exfoliant and finding a kickarse moisturiser. Most of your problems will be solved by doing that. You'll then be able to apply a light amount of foundation and dab concealer when necessary.
posted by heyjude at 2:30 AM on October 17, 2012

You want Maybelline Wonder finish. It's a liquid foundation that turns powdery after application. It's really super-duper matte and goes on so smoothly. It is also SPF 15. It's pretty cheap too. My friend who works as a professional model recommended it to me - it's one of the few cheap products she uses because she thinks it is better than the top of the range ones.

I recently tried to switch to the Garnier BB cream recommended above, and I wouldn't recommend it further. I can't tell I'm wearing it at all except for the oiliness of my skin with it on. It doesn't do anything visible at all - although my skin is naturally pretty even, so maybe it is more noticeable if you have blotchy or acne-prone skin.
posted by lollusc at 2:43 AM on October 17, 2012 [2 favorites]

(Also, I didn't tell my husband I was switching foundation brands, and he spontaneously asked yesterday why my skin looks really green lately. DEFINITELY going back to the Maybelline stuff!)
posted by lollusc at 2:47 AM on October 17, 2012

I have the same problems in winter. Best thing I have found is Queen Helene Mint Julep scrub, which I use in the morning. During the day I use a light moisturiser under either mineral makeup or BB cream, then touch up with a bit of powder. Blot my face with a tissue during the day. Then at night I put on a heavier night time moisturiser.
posted by veids at 2:53 AM on October 17, 2012

I have horrible acne prone oily skin. And don't like spending tons of money on make up.
I use l'oreal primer (in a little bottle) usually with no foundation. I also use Mint Julep Masque about 4x a week. During the day I use Physicians Formula powder to absorb oil.

These have helped a lot.
posted by KogeLiz at 3:19 AM on October 17, 2012

The thing to watch out for with primer, though, is that some skin does not like silicone. I took a bottle of Bare Escentuals primer on holiday with me once, and came out in so many spots that it began to look like a rash. I thought it was something else I was using, but the same thing happened again when I used it recently. Apparently there is one called Nip +Fab which is water-based, but I haven't tried it yet.
posted by mippy at 4:33 AM on October 17, 2012

-correction on my post - I use Revlon PhotoReady Primer, not L'oreal. It seems to moisturize and smooth my skin and make it look less pore-ish and crappy. Doesn't cause breakouts for me, either.
posted by KogeLiz at 4:39 AM on October 17, 2012

This recommends the l'oreal primer as a drugstore alternative too - although note the application technique as it is not applied as a primer per se.
posted by kitkatcathy at 4:40 AM on October 17, 2012

Best answer: I think primer all over plus concealer is your best option. There are also powders - both loose and pressed - that are more moisturizing and less drying, so won't accentuate flakes.

I have some favorite products (Hourglass primer, Guerlain Meteorites Compact powder) - but they're both quite pricey - I personally find it worth it to spend the $ on face products that I will wear every day, but I understand that's not an option for everyone.

Oh, and regarding alternative products - Monistat Chafing Relief gel (not the medicated stuff) is often used as a primer with great results. It has the same basic ingredients - mostly silicones - as many high end primers. Here are the Makeupalley reviews (registration may be required)/
posted by insectosaurus at 5:39 AM on October 17, 2012 [2 favorites]

Also - agreed with mippy that many people are sensitive to silicones. You could get a sample of a silicone-heavy primer from Sephora just to test, and if it works for you & doesn't break you out, find a cheaper drugstore alternative.
posted by insectosaurus at 5:40 AM on October 17, 2012

I have dry skin that looks oily some times (so frustrating) so I feel your pain. When I want my face to look really matte, I use a 50/50 mix of Coty Airspun Powder and cornstarch (plain old cornstarch from the kitchen)

The thing about most loose powders is that when you look at the ingredients they contain oil, which isn't so helpful on an already-oily face. And when you do find an oil-free powder, it's very drying, which isn't helpful on dry skin! Cornstarch on your face works the same way it does in cooking-- it helps oil and water bind together, which in practice means the oil on your face stays hidden.

But cornstarch alone makes me look goth since it's not tinted, so I mix it with a pigmented loose powder. I've found that it doesn't much matter what powder I use, so I go cheap. I buy one shade darker than I normally would, and mix equal parts powder and cornstarch. I apply it with a big, soft, high-quality brush. When I do this, my skin looks matte for a good solid 6-8 hours. Longer than that, and I use a Clean 'n Clear blotting paper, the exact one mentioned above.

Also I agree about exfoliating. I have a skin condition that means I can't use any product exfoliators (they are ALL too strong for me, whether mechanical, chemical or enzyme based). So I use handmade 100% cotton washclothes to wash my face (like these), which work perfectly and are super gentle. I use a clean washcloth every day with a gentle cleanser.
posted by OrangeDisk at 6:07 AM on October 17, 2012 [1 favorite]

Go to sephora and get a free sample of Makeup Forever's HD powder. It's pure silica, and i've found that it doesn't cause the dryness-accentuating problems of most/drugstore powders, which are pretty much all made from talc. It's expensive, but at least you can try it out and decide if it's worthwhile. (It also likely has a cheaper duplicate, but i don't know what it is.)
posted by Kololo at 6:37 AM on October 17, 2012

I've been using the Grease Lightning gel from Lush. Not exactly drugstore but I only use one pump from the bottle every morning and it's enough gel to spread in a thin layer all over my face (work quickly). It's supposed to be a spot treatment for blemishes but I saw someone on YouTube who used it as a primer so I tried it and it's been working well so far.

Careful though if you have adverse reactions to witch hazel and/or tea tree oil, because those plus aloe vera are the main ingredients.

I exfoliate using microfiber cloth and occasionally a soft face brush, both of which I bought from Daiso (Japanese dollar store). I also use antibacterial soap to wash my washcloths before and after use.
posted by pimli at 6:43 AM on October 17, 2012

This is sort of weird, but toilet seat covers (the paper kind you find in public restrooms) work great as oil blotters.
posted by baby beluga at 7:15 AM on October 17, 2012

I have very oily skin and was addicted to powder until recently when I realized it was making my skin look cakey. I've been using BB Cream (Missha Perfect Cover--worth every penny) and after I stopped using the powder I saw that it does a perfectly fine job of mattifying without the powder. During the day I blot with brown recycled napkins, a tip I saw somewhere (can't remember the source), and it really works well. I'm saving a ton of money on blotting papers by just taking one extra napkin at lunch and later blotting away in my office.
posted by Fuego at 8:41 AM on October 17, 2012

dry + flaky + shiny = your skin's way of telling you that you need to exfoliate and moisturize badly! exfoliating gets rid of the dry & flaky skin and lets the healthy skin underneath actually absorb moisturizer; otherwise anything you put on top of the flaky skin just tends to cake and give you scales. from experience, if you spend your money fixing this now, you can spend less time and money on makeup to cover your skin up down the road!

current day-to-day routine: exfoliate, moisturize, toner, l'oreal instant age rewind primer + neutrogena healthy skin glow sheers tinted moisturizer with spf 30. the tinted moisturizer goes on and stays on better with the primer underneath. what i love most about it is that it doesn't make my face completely matte or cover up all my imperfections, but it evens my skin out and gives me a really nice healthy, dewy glow. most people don't even realize i wear any makeup! i never ever got complimented on my skin till i hit my 30s and started taking care of it.
posted by lia at 8:49 AM on October 17, 2012

Exfoliating is hugely important and there are various ways to do it. The physical methods are washcloth, facial brush, or grainy cleansing products. A microfiber cloth can be great because you can use it gently and still remove dead skin. Rubbing vigorously with anything can cause redness and increase oily shine.

I prefer to use an acidic exfoliant like glycolic acid (AHA) or salicylic acid (BHA). I haven't tried retinoids, which are also popular. I use a 10% AHA lotion every other day, and the result is smoother, brighter-looking skin with no flakes. When I had acne, I used salicylic acid -- it can actually prevent blackheads and pimples. The concentration I used was 2%. In both AHA and BHA, you can get them in different concetrations, mixed into various lotions, toners, cleansers, etc. With either acid, you want to start cautiously and gradually increase the frequence, amount used, and/or concentration.

I like Complex 15 moisturizer, available in drugstores. It rehydrates my skin without adding oil. Light and unscented.

You might want to try the Skin Board at Makeup Alley. A search will turn up plenty of info, and you can also sign up and ask questions of your own.
posted by wryly at 9:42 AM on October 17, 2012 [1 favorite]

Stop treating the symptoms and cure the problem. Ditch the drugstore and go to Kiehl's. This cleanser has a gentle exfoliator that buffs away dry skin, with other ingredients that help it regenerate (slough off the dead stuff). Their moisturizers are all awesome. They cost more but they also last forever. I've thrown away thousands on garbage drugstore brands that don't do anything, or skincare lines that came from makeup companies etc. - often equally useless. Spend the money, you're worth it.
posted by Marnie at 10:15 AM on October 17, 2012

Exfoliate has been said many times, and I also recommend it. I know Neutrogena just came out with a mattifying foundation. I have not tried it, but I do like some of their other foundations, so it might be worth a shot.

I have oily skin and there are two foundations I like: Revlon Colorstay for oily skin mattifies without being very drying, which may help with the flake issue. My latest favorite, however, is Covergirl Naturaluxe Foundation. It's rich and creamy but not too think. It doesn't give you that super matte dry look or mattify too much, but I've also never experienced shininess with it. The consistency gives you beautiful looking skin.
posted by itsonreserve at 12:18 PM on October 17, 2012

The Beauty Department blog just did a post yesterday on using mattifier instead of powder. They recommend this one by L'Oreal which is $13 at drugstores (pricy, but cheaper than counter brands).

Alhough I agree this is a temporary fix. Nutrition and the right combo of exfoliation and hydration will help with this.
posted by Brittanie at 1:26 PM on October 17, 2012