Best comfortable dust respirator
August 3, 2012 4:11 AM Subscribe
I'm after recommendations for the best dust respirator to use for long periods of time, specifically for charcoal and graphite dust.
In my artwork I'm using a LOT of charcoal and graphite powder, I'm inhaling too much so want to get a respirator. The ones I've had in the past I've found hard to wear for long periods of time. I'd like to be able to wear it for say 3 or 4 hours at a time - or if that's asking too much, at least an hour, I could always go for a cup of tea every hour or so... Suggestions of brands, models, types, are all welcome.
If you have a studio you can modify, then have you looked at installing something like a downdraft vent hood? If you are creating that much dust, it is probably better to remove it from the workspace so you don't accidentally deal with it when you are moving papers around without your mask on.
posted by JJ86 at 6:55 AM on August 3, 2012 [1 favorite]
posted by JJ86 at 6:55 AM on August 3, 2012 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Good respirators manufacturers include North Safety, Scott Respirators and MSA. I'm less gone on 3M.
For dust only, a half-mask is enough. You will want to look for a mask that is rated P100 for good protection. Paper masks are rated P95 and thus leak (at least) 5% of the atmosphere.
The silicone "rubber" ones are the most comfortable to wear, in my experience. We use MSA's at work and I have worn them for hours at a time. No mask is really comfortable for 3 or 4 hours, but the MSA ones we have are tolerable. At home, I use a North 7700 ($25-30) and I'm pretty happy with it.
Something with a soft, wide strip running around the edge of the mask that seals to your skin is the most comfortable for extended wear, and the safest to use. If you're male you want to make certain that you've recently shaved the skin the mask seals against.
I'd recommend against paper masks. They are theoretically only 95% protective (compared to ~98% for a half mask). They don't seal well enough, particularly around the lower jaw and by the nose in our fit testing. They also fit less well over time. After a few hours, I doubt a paper mask would be offering any real protection at all. Paper masks are also going to be more expensive than cartridges after a dozen or so uses.
If you're using solvents too, I'd think about a full mask, but they are a lot more expensive. I find the full mask a lot more comfortable personally.
posted by bonehead at 7:00 AM on August 3, 2012
For dust only, a half-mask is enough. You will want to look for a mask that is rated P100 for good protection. Paper masks are rated P95 and thus leak (at least) 5% of the atmosphere.
The silicone "rubber" ones are the most comfortable to wear, in my experience. We use MSA's at work and I have worn them for hours at a time. No mask is really comfortable for 3 or 4 hours, but the MSA ones we have are tolerable. At home, I use a North 7700 ($25-30) and I'm pretty happy with it.
Something with a soft, wide strip running around the edge of the mask that seals to your skin is the most comfortable for extended wear, and the safest to use. If you're male you want to make certain that you've recently shaved the skin the mask seals against.
I'd recommend against paper masks. They are theoretically only 95% protective (compared to ~98% for a half mask). They don't seal well enough, particularly around the lower jaw and by the nose in our fit testing. They also fit less well over time. After a few hours, I doubt a paper mask would be offering any real protection at all. Paper masks are also going to be more expensive than cartridges after a dozen or so uses.
If you're using solvents too, I'd think about a full mask, but they are a lot more expensive. I find the full mask a lot more comfortable personally.
posted by bonehead at 7:00 AM on August 3, 2012
Also, if you have prominent cheek-bones or dimples you may find that no half-mask fits you well.
posted by bonehead at 7:02 AM on August 3, 2012
posted by bonehead at 7:02 AM on August 3, 2012
Sorry, last comment.
If the budget allows it, the high end of long-term particulate protection in a powered air purifying respirator (PAPR). This is what people who will work for extended periods in hazardous particulate or dust (but not primarily chemical) exposures will wear. PAPRs are two parts, a hood with a face piece which covers the head, and a belt or backpack pump and filter system. They are much more comfortable to wear than APR masks, lighter on the face and generally manage sweat well (something masks are notorious for doing poorly).
PAPRs start at about $1000 though.
posted by bonehead at 7:22 AM on August 3, 2012
If the budget allows it, the high end of long-term particulate protection in a powered air purifying respirator (PAPR). This is what people who will work for extended periods in hazardous particulate or dust (but not primarily chemical) exposures will wear. PAPRs are two parts, a hood with a face piece which covers the head, and a belt or backpack pump and filter system. They are much more comfortable to wear than APR masks, lighter on the face and generally manage sweat well (something masks are notorious for doing poorly).
PAPRs start at about $1000 though.
posted by bonehead at 7:22 AM on August 3, 2012
Woodturners and other woodworkers who create a lot of dust really like battery powered positive pressure masks like this or this; they blow filtered air over your face from the eyes downward. For guys with beards these are are basically the only effective option. $400 isn't chump change, but it keeps the crap out of your lungs, eyes and beard.
posted by seanmpuckett at 7:56 AM on August 3, 2012 [1 favorite]
posted by seanmpuckett at 7:56 AM on August 3, 2012 [1 favorite]
I've found the latest generation of 3M 6000-series half-face respirators to be a fantastic bang for the buck. Very comfortable (buy the right size), light, quick suit-up and removal, and relatively inexpensive cartridges.
posted by introp at 9:10 AM on August 3, 2012
posted by introp at 9:10 AM on August 3, 2012
I've worn both silicone face-fitting half-mask respirators and PAPRs for hours on end, and PAPRs are infinitely more comfortable. (They're actually kind of nice in hot weather because you get a steady breeze over your face.) The face masks have to be quite tight for a good seal and get all sweaty inside, and you sort of dread having to put one on after a few days of using one, so your good intentions may go out the window if your stuff isn't acutely toxic.
The biggest problem with PAPRs (besides cost) is if you sneeze inside one, but that's true of half-masks as well.
posted by Quietgal at 9:20 AM on August 3, 2012
The biggest problem with PAPRs (besides cost) is if you sneeze inside one, but that's true of half-masks as well.
posted by Quietgal at 9:20 AM on August 3, 2012
If you have a DIY streak, and a reasonably static workspace, this problem sounds like it could also be solved with a curtain of air flowing between you and your work, taking the dust into a hood.
As regards respirators, if you've been using one with a single filter, try one with two filter cartridges - your lungs don't have to work as hard to pull air through.
posted by -harlequin- at 10:50 AM on August 3, 2012
As regards respirators, if you've been using one with a single filter, try one with two filter cartridges - your lungs don't have to work as hard to pull air through.
posted by -harlequin- at 10:50 AM on August 3, 2012
Response by poster: Thanks for the answers folks, I'll have a more detailed look at the suggestions this weekend. I don't think a hood or curtain of air is feasible unfortunately, as I work spread out across the whole space on the floor - big canvases.
I think I used a 3M cartridge type mask previously and the main problem was I found it hard to suck the air through the vents, I never felt like I was getting enough air and it was impossible to keep it on for long. I had a quick look at the full face ones, they look great, but out of my price range for now.
posted by halcorp at 12:12 PM on August 3, 2012
I think I used a 3M cartridge type mask previously and the main problem was I found it hard to suck the air through the vents, I never felt like I was getting enough air and it was impossible to keep it on for long. I had a quick look at the full face ones, they look great, but out of my price range for now.
posted by halcorp at 12:12 PM on August 3, 2012
> Paper masks are rated P95
3M's 8293 is sort of a paper mask that's rated P100.
It is one piece (not cartridge) but it does have a non-paper seal. There's also an 8233 which is N100.
N = Not oil-proof, P = oil Proof. If you aren't working around pesticides or paints & solvents, but just particulates, you can save a little $$ & go N.
The common paper masks I see at hardware stores are either "comfort masks" which aren't NIOSH rated at all or N95. P95 paper exists, but aren't common. If you're going for cheap, basic protection and want some comfort, at least get something with an exhale valve.
posted by morganw at 3:50 PM on August 3, 2012
3M's 8293 is sort of a paper mask that's rated P100.
It is one piece (not cartridge) but it does have a non-paper seal. There's also an 8233 which is N100.
N = Not oil-proof, P = oil Proof. If you aren't working around pesticides or paints & solvents, but just particulates, you can save a little $$ & go N.
The common paper masks I see at hardware stores are either "comfort masks" which aren't NIOSH rated at all or N95. P95 paper exists, but aren't common. If you're going for cheap, basic protection and want some comfort, at least get something with an exhale valve.
posted by morganw at 3:50 PM on August 3, 2012
Best answer: I don't think a hood or curtain of air is feasible unfortunately, as I work spread out across the whole space on the floor - big canvases.
Unless you are working with your nose an inch from the paper, I disagree. The problem you are having is obviously with dust that is getting away from the paper and up to your nose which probably a foot or more away. Drawing graphite-laden air away from that space will make it possible to work without a respirator and without hazard. Just a slight, constant air movement running parallel to the floor is all that is needed to pull that graphite away from your face. It is actually a pretty easy set up.
Again, if you don't remove the dust from your work space, it is still going to be there after you take the mask off and will still be a problem. Every step you take afterwards will stir up the graphite and create the same problem again and again.
posted by JJ86 at 5:43 AM on August 6, 2012
Unless you are working with your nose an inch from the paper, I disagree. The problem you are having is obviously with dust that is getting away from the paper and up to your nose which probably a foot or more away. Drawing graphite-laden air away from that space will make it possible to work without a respirator and without hazard. Just a slight, constant air movement running parallel to the floor is all that is needed to pull that graphite away from your face. It is actually a pretty easy set up.
Again, if you don't remove the dust from your work space, it is still going to be there after you take the mask off and will still be a problem. Every step you take afterwards will stir up the graphite and create the same problem again and again.
posted by JJ86 at 5:43 AM on August 6, 2012
This thread is closed to new comments.
It may help if you told us what you've used before and why you didn't like them.
posted by deadwax at 4:24 AM on August 3, 2012