Help me fix my studio?
June 27, 2012 2:16 AM Subscribe
Is it possible to reinforce cheap laminated bookshelves to support a large collection of heavy, full-color, hardcover books? Is there such a thing as sturdy RTA shelving that doesn't start with E, end with t, and come from Ikea?
The challenges:
1. I'm poor, so a budget option is necessary. Less than $300 for the whole project is preferable.
2. I drive a Fit, so Craigslist for real wood furniture is out (unless I am lucky enough to find someone who would deliver.) Plus I've had bedbugs, and used furniture scares me. I know bedbugs can and do hide in wood.
3. The closest Ikea is a 450 mile round trip. Bastards.
4. I need about 7 feet of shelving, 72" high.
5. MDF on concrete blocks scares me too much. I've got carpet and an uneven floor.
6. I have limited access to simple power tools, but no power saws or anything like that.
7. I live in an apartment, so I can't anchor things to the walls.
8. I prefer white furniture for my studio, but that's not a total dealbreaker.
I've read a bunch of articles on how to reinforce shelving, but they all seem to assume that the shelving you're reinforcing isn't held together by a thin cardboard sheet haphazardly nailed into compressed wood products. Bracketing the center of each shelf is a nice idea, but it's not like I can screw it to the cardboard. I thought about getting thin wood backings cut at Lowe's or something, but I've had disastrous experiences drilling into the edges of cheap shelving in the past. Everything seems to be going fine and then suddenly the shelf is exploding into woodchips and laminate is cracking everywhere.
Google searches have revealed plenty of white melamine open front shelving, but hardly anyone describes the backing. Sauder and a few others mention "sturdy" cardboard, but many others skip over that part of the product description.
I dislike the idea of wire shelving because I'd have to buy expensive shelf liners and they'd still be open on the sides and backs--not so good for books, and this is for my studio, where artful stacks of heavy books on each end would be inefficient.
I'm open to buying 5 or 6 very narrow and tall bookcases, but these are like unicorns, apparently. I'm open to reinforcing cheap melamine using brackets and 1/4" or 1/8" backing, but someone would need to explain how to drill into the frame and the fixed shelf without creating a woodchip volcano. I'm open to buying RTA shelves that come with sturdier backing. I'm open to suggestions.
I really have to solve this problem. My studio is a mess and it's detrimental to what little productivity I have.
The challenges:
1. I'm poor, so a budget option is necessary. Less than $300 for the whole project is preferable.
2. I drive a Fit, so Craigslist for real wood furniture is out (unless I am lucky enough to find someone who would deliver.) Plus I've had bedbugs, and used furniture scares me. I know bedbugs can and do hide in wood.
3. The closest Ikea is a 450 mile round trip. Bastards.
4. I need about 7 feet of shelving, 72" high.
5. MDF on concrete blocks scares me too much. I've got carpet and an uneven floor.
6. I have limited access to simple power tools, but no power saws or anything like that.
7. I live in an apartment, so I can't anchor things to the walls.
8. I prefer white furniture for my studio, but that's not a total dealbreaker.
I've read a bunch of articles on how to reinforce shelving, but they all seem to assume that the shelving you're reinforcing isn't held together by a thin cardboard sheet haphazardly nailed into compressed wood products. Bracketing the center of each shelf is a nice idea, but it's not like I can screw it to the cardboard. I thought about getting thin wood backings cut at Lowe's or something, but I've had disastrous experiences drilling into the edges of cheap shelving in the past. Everything seems to be going fine and then suddenly the shelf is exploding into woodchips and laminate is cracking everywhere.
Google searches have revealed plenty of white melamine open front shelving, but hardly anyone describes the backing. Sauder and a few others mention "sturdy" cardboard, but many others skip over that part of the product description.
I dislike the idea of wire shelving because I'd have to buy expensive shelf liners and they'd still be open on the sides and backs--not so good for books, and this is for my studio, where artful stacks of heavy books on each end would be inefficient.
I'm open to buying 5 or 6 very narrow and tall bookcases, but these are like unicorns, apparently. I'm open to reinforcing cheap melamine using brackets and 1/4" or 1/8" backing, but someone would need to explain how to drill into the frame and the fixed shelf without creating a woodchip volcano. I'm open to buying RTA shelves that come with sturdier backing. I'm open to suggestions.
I really have to solve this problem. My studio is a mess and it's detrimental to what little productivity I have.
Best answer: Have you considered adhering the backing with construction adhesive in addition to mechanical fasteners? Glues are great for shear forces - Be sure to read what the adhesive you buy needs for cleanup - you ARE going to get some on the edges if you use enough to get a good bond, and most of the good glues require something exotic like toluene.
As far as the nails, I would step up to 1" drywall screws and predrill the holes using a drill the width of the of the thread core. Use a ruler to make sure the holes are going into the middle of the MDF underneath.
posted by Orb2069 at 4:03 AM on June 27, 2012
As far as the nails, I would step up to 1" drywall screws and predrill the holes using a drill the width of the of the thread core. Use a ruler to make sure the holes are going into the middle of the MDF underneath.
posted by Orb2069 at 4:03 AM on June 27, 2012
I would think you could get a cheap basic Pine bookcase for under $300. You could then paint it white? DO you have like a "Pine Warehouse" style place nearby? They will usually deliver for a small fee.
I know you said no IKEA but we have one of the deeper Billy shelves loaded up with Art Books, Reference Books and Dictionaries. It seems to be doing OK. - Or you could get the Narrow version and stick 2-3 side by side. You can order online in the UK. (where are you?)
posted by mary8nne at 4:07 AM on June 27, 2012
I know you said no IKEA but we have one of the deeper Billy shelves loaded up with Art Books, Reference Books and Dictionaries. It seems to be doing OK. - Or you could get the Narrow version and stick 2-3 side by side. You can order online in the UK. (where are you?)
posted by mary8nne at 4:07 AM on June 27, 2012
Metal shelving, which you can get at hardware stores, will work for this. Assembly requires a screwdriver.
A couple things to keep in mind: They have five shelves per six foot unit, not really enough for book shelves. You'll want to buy a three units and use shelves from the third to fill out the first two. They consist of four uprights plus shelves and bracing, so the ends are open. You'll want to use book ends or block the ends somehow.
posted by nangar at 4:28 AM on June 27, 2012
A couple things to keep in mind: They have five shelves per six foot unit, not really enough for book shelves. You'll want to buy a three units and use shelves from the third to fill out the first two. They consist of four uprights plus shelves and bracing, so the ends are open. You'll want to use book ends or block the ends somehow.
posted by nangar at 4:28 AM on June 27, 2012
Best answer: I built a really sturdy bookshelf for $40 using these plans. Lowes actually did all the cuts for me for free so it all fit in a passenger car and assembly was easy with a drill and screws. It weighs a fair amount and clearly will last forever. It cost less than the crappy MDF Target bookshelf it replaced and actually looks nice. Since you can't attach it to the wall you would probably need to put stabilizing feet on it but that would be easy.
posted by ChrisHartley at 4:41 AM on June 27, 2012 [5 favorites]
posted by ChrisHartley at 4:41 AM on June 27, 2012 [5 favorites]
Also, shims may be useful if your floor is unusually uneven.
posted by XMLicious at 4:56 AM on June 27, 2012
posted by XMLicious at 4:56 AM on June 27, 2012
Does it have to be wood? I'd keep an eye out on CraigsList for metal shelving, restaurant shelving - basically the open wire stuff. Hard to transfer bedbugs on that, and it will go in the Fit unassembled.
These are sold in store, can be delivered, and you can get four for just over $300 bucks and assemble as three units (more shelves per unit, extra poles for ... pole dancing? mebbe not)
You might not have an IKEA nearby, but you might have a Wood You (prices vary, not on site). They do the assembly and you might be able to work out delivery.
posted by tilde at 5:26 AM on June 27, 2012
These are sold in store, can be delivered, and you can get four for just over $300 bucks and assemble as three units (more shelves per unit, extra poles for ... pole dancing? mebbe not)
You might not have an IKEA nearby, but you might have a Wood You (prices vary, not on site). They do the assembly and you might be able to work out delivery.
posted by tilde at 5:26 AM on June 27, 2012
Best answer: 3. The closest Ikea is a 450 mile round trip. Bastards.
My closest Ikea is 400 miles roundtrip and I spent the loveliest day all by myself (something I don't often get to do) driving down there, wandering around taking my time not talking to a single soul (solitude in a crowd, so nice), picking out exactly what I wanted, having a nice lunch, stopping at the Trader Joe's there (I don't have one of those nearby either) and riding back with two medium E-----t shelves in my Pontiac Vibe which I don't think is much bigger than the Fit. An ipod loaded with my podcasts of choice and my music of choice all the way there and back really made it a luxury. Just an idea, as it sounds like you'd prefer Ikea but for the distance.
posted by headnsouth at 5:38 AM on June 27, 2012 [4 favorites]
My closest Ikea is 400 miles roundtrip and I spent the loveliest day all by myself (something I don't often get to do) driving down there, wandering around taking my time not talking to a single soul (solitude in a crowd, so nice), picking out exactly what I wanted, having a nice lunch, stopping at the Trader Joe's there (I don't have one of those nearby either) and riding back with two medium E-----t shelves in my Pontiac Vibe which I don't think is much bigger than the Fit. An ipod loaded with my podcasts of choice and my music of choice all the way there and back really made it a luxury. Just an idea, as it sounds like you'd prefer Ikea but for the distance.
posted by headnsouth at 5:38 AM on June 27, 2012 [4 favorites]
Best answer: The backs of shelving units are generally not meant to directly support the weight of the shelves and their contents. Aside from aesthetics and making it impossible to push small stuff off the back of the shelves, the purpose of the back panel is to keep the whole unit from parallelograming over to one side or the other. So long as the unit stays square and upright, the weight of the contents is transferred from the shelves to the left and right sides, which sit on the floor. Many shelves are meant to be adjustable, so they're not attached to the back panel at all.
The wider the unsupported span of any given shelf, the more it's going to bow. So for your unusually heavy loads, your shelves need to be either narrower than average or especially rigid. Ikea's Expedit shelves support a lot of weight, despite the fact that most of it is particle board, because the unsupported spans are very short. If you were to use 2x12 construction lumber then spans could be wider (though not the whole 7').If you find a deal on some wide particle-board units, then you can shorten the unsupported spans by wedging a series of vertical boards between the shelves right down the middle, one over another, to carry the load all the way down to the floor, just like the e*****t shelves do.
You're going to have to change your mind about fastening this to the wall. Carpeting will make any shelf unit unstable on carpeting, not just concrete and MDF. If fastening to the wall is absolutely undoable, then get 14' at 3' high instead of 7' at 6' high.
posted by jon1270 at 6:18 AM on June 27, 2012
The wider the unsupported span of any given shelf, the more it's going to bow. So for your unusually heavy loads, your shelves need to be either narrower than average or especially rigid. Ikea's Expedit shelves support a lot of weight, despite the fact that most of it is particle board, because the unsupported spans are very short. If you were to use 2x12 construction lumber then spans could be wider (though not the whole 7').If you find a deal on some wide particle-board units, then you can shorten the unsupported spans by wedging a series of vertical boards between the shelves right down the middle, one over another, to carry the load all the way down to the floor, just like the e*****t shelves do.
You're going to have to change your mind about fastening this to the wall. Carpeting will make any shelf unit unstable on carpeting, not just concrete and MDF. If fastening to the wall is absolutely undoable, then get 14' at 3' high instead of 7' at 6' high.
posted by jon1270 at 6:18 AM on June 27, 2012
Best answer: Some years ago, I had a part-time carpenter build a bookcase to my specifications. It was built like a brick shithouse, super-double-reinforced. You might see if you can find someone in your area who can do that kind of work for you.
He even delivered.
posted by adamrice at 6:21 AM on June 27, 2012 [1 favorite]
He even delivered.
posted by adamrice at 6:21 AM on June 27, 2012 [1 favorite]
n'thing custom build, either on your own or by someone else. And using something other than laminate.
For example, you could probably do seven of these, but with 12" boxes instead of 6" to accomodate larger books. (Big box stores that cute usually won't do anything less that 12" anyway, and as commenters there point out, it can be very dangerous if you don't have the right tools and skills.) One sheet of plywood costs about $20-30, depending on thickness and finish. Think through how to cut it up efficiently and bring a diagram of how you want it done into your Lowes. When you lay it out don't forget to consider the "kerf" - the 1/4 inch or so that is taken out by the saw blade. You want them to cut on 12" centers, not to 12" boards, so each of the box sides you get will actually be 11 and 3/4" inches. You may have to pay them to do a lot of cuts, but if you come in at a time when the store isn't busy, like a weekday afternoon, they may just do it for free. And they're usually more willing to do extra cuts for women than men, in my experience.
Or, find someone else do the rough work of cutting and assembling. Maybe $100-200 for the labor? Or just someone you know with more space and tools. And then use brads or little nails to attach some molding on the edges, sand it all with a power sander you can rent (or buy for about $40) and paint it all with glossy white paint. Again the store can suggest something that mimics laminate. Attach the pieces to each other with a few easily removable screws or bolts and you'll have a piece of furniture that should be like a rock, will look a lot better than laminate and that you can transport relatively easily if you need to by separating it into the 1' x 7' components.
posted by RandlePatrickMcMurphy at 8:02 AM on June 27, 2012
For example, you could probably do seven of these, but with 12" boxes instead of 6" to accomodate larger books. (Big box stores that cute usually won't do anything less that 12" anyway, and as commenters there point out, it can be very dangerous if you don't have the right tools and skills.) One sheet of plywood costs about $20-30, depending on thickness and finish. Think through how to cut it up efficiently and bring a diagram of how you want it done into your Lowes. When you lay it out don't forget to consider the "kerf" - the 1/4 inch or so that is taken out by the saw blade. You want them to cut on 12" centers, not to 12" boards, so each of the box sides you get will actually be 11 and 3/4" inches. You may have to pay them to do a lot of cuts, but if you come in at a time when the store isn't busy, like a weekday afternoon, they may just do it for free. And they're usually more willing to do extra cuts for women than men, in my experience.
Or, find someone else do the rough work of cutting and assembling. Maybe $100-200 for the labor? Or just someone you know with more space and tools. And then use brads or little nails to attach some molding on the edges, sand it all with a power sander you can rent (or buy for about $40) and paint it all with glossy white paint. Again the store can suggest something that mimics laminate. Attach the pieces to each other with a few easily removable screws or bolts and you'll have a piece of furniture that should be like a rock, will look a lot better than laminate and that you can transport relatively easily if you need to by separating it into the 1' x 7' components.
posted by RandlePatrickMcMurphy at 8:02 AM on June 27, 2012
cut not cute. big box stores are not cute.
posted by RandlePatrickMcMurphy at 8:02 AM on June 27, 2012 [1 favorite]
posted by RandlePatrickMcMurphy at 8:02 AM on June 27, 2012 [1 favorite]
Best answer: It would be really easy to reinforce cheap particleboard shelves, if you can find enough of those for cheap. Get some 1x2s or 1x3s from the hardware store and attach to the front edge of the shelf, like so. Glue & nails will work well, no need for a fancy nailer like in the picture. Yellow wood glue is best, but white paper glue has the same chemistry and is almost as strong. Tip: pound the nails through the edging board so that the points poke just a bit out the other side before you put on the glue. Then you can press the board in position by hand and it won't slide out of position while you pound the nails. You'll probably need to pull off the little edging strip on the front of the shelves to get a good glue bond.
posted by echo target at 8:19 AM on June 27, 2012
posted by echo target at 8:19 AM on June 27, 2012
The problem with Ikea is not the shelf strength but the flimsy hardware that hold them together and quickly pulls out of the particleboard.
For less money, I got grey metal industrial shelves. They disappear behind the books and can hold the heaviest stuff easily. Be sure to get cross-bracing pieces that anchor the structure in triangles.
posted by KRS at 3:22 PM on June 27, 2012
For less money, I got grey metal industrial shelves. They disappear behind the books and can hold the heaviest stuff easily. Be sure to get cross-bracing pieces that anchor the structure in triangles.
posted by KRS at 3:22 PM on June 27, 2012
Response by poster: This has been awesome. I'm going to try the simple plans that ChrisHartley linked. If I can get one test shelf done to my satisfaction I'll do a couple more--if it sucks, I'm only out some wood and a few screws and I can try plan b, which would be to reinforce RTA shelving using strong fronts.
It sounds like pre-drilling is key when doing this sort of thing. Good to know. :) I can paint like mad but my powertoolmanship is not so good.
posted by xyzzy at 9:13 PM on June 27, 2012
It sounds like pre-drilling is key when doing this sort of thing. Good to know. :) I can paint like mad but my powertoolmanship is not so good.
posted by xyzzy at 9:13 PM on June 27, 2012
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I think you would do better starting off with something sturdy and ugly, and proceeding to make it look prettier, than starting off with something flimsy but pretty and trying to make it sturdy. (Particularly since you might end up making it ugly anyways in the course of trying to reinforce it.) Places that sell lumber will usually do a small amount of cutting for you, so if you can come up with a design made of 2×4s cut in half you could have them make the cuts at the store and assemble it at home if you plan carefully enough.
posted by XMLicious at 2:45 AM on June 27, 2012