Beanpole needs to (sartorially) grow up
January 3, 2012 2:07 PM Subscribe
I'm 25, thin, & narrow - and I need to get some serious grown-up clothes for the first time in my life.
For several years since college, I've been working in a field with extremely casual dress norms - sandals, cargo shorts, etc are all typical, even for job interviews & presentations. I'm still wearing basically the same things I wore in college. By any standard, I have extremely little in the form of more formal gear - I don't own a suit, a tie, a pair of nice black formal shoes, or even a plain white button-down shirt. On the rare social occasions dressing up is called for, I just put on a nice sweater and deal with being somewhat under-dressed.
To make things worse, I'm really quite skinny (I wear 28x32 pants, for example), somewhat young looking, and have pretty narrow shoulders. However, I'm of dead-average height (5'10"). Therefore, if I do dress up, clothes that fit me in terms of length (such as the handful of casual blazers I do own), tend to look a bit baggy and loose around the shoulders, as though I was a teenager wearing my dad's old jacket.
In a few months, I expect to begin interviewing for positions in a new field. This field is the polar-opposite in terms of dress code - think of law or finance. Suit & tie will definitely be the expectation at interviews, and I'll be expected to look good in them. Also, socially, I'm increasingly invited to dressier & more 'adult' events.
I have roughly $2k to throw at the problem*. As I understand it, the likeliest solution to this is getting my clothes either custom-made or tailor-altered, but I have no actual experience doing this. I'm especially interested in people's experience with cheaper made-to-measure places like mytailor.com.
I'm based in Chicago, but travel several times a year to other major US cities (NY, Boston, & LA).
* To clarify, this budget is just to get a smallish number of pieces as basics / starters - enough to get me through, say, a 2-day interview visit or a cocktail party.
For several years since college, I've been working in a field with extremely casual dress norms - sandals, cargo shorts, etc are all typical, even for job interviews & presentations. I'm still wearing basically the same things I wore in college. By any standard, I have extremely little in the form of more formal gear - I don't own a suit, a tie, a pair of nice black formal shoes, or even a plain white button-down shirt. On the rare social occasions dressing up is called for, I just put on a nice sweater and deal with being somewhat under-dressed.
To make things worse, I'm really quite skinny (I wear 28x32 pants, for example), somewhat young looking, and have pretty narrow shoulders. However, I'm of dead-average height (5'10"). Therefore, if I do dress up, clothes that fit me in terms of length (such as the handful of casual blazers I do own), tend to look a bit baggy and loose around the shoulders, as though I was a teenager wearing my dad's old jacket.
In a few months, I expect to begin interviewing for positions in a new field. This field is the polar-opposite in terms of dress code - think of law or finance. Suit & tie will definitely be the expectation at interviews, and I'll be expected to look good in them. Also, socially, I'm increasingly invited to dressier & more 'adult' events.
I have roughly $2k to throw at the problem*. As I understand it, the likeliest solution to this is getting my clothes either custom-made or tailor-altered, but I have no actual experience doing this. I'm especially interested in people's experience with cheaper made-to-measure places like mytailor.com.
I'm based in Chicago, but travel several times a year to other major US cities (NY, Boston, & LA).
* To clarify, this budget is just to get a smallish number of pieces as basics / starters - enough to get me through, say, a 2-day interview visit or a cocktail party.
You can get very reasonably priced custom shirts through Lands End.
posted by something something at 2:18 PM on January 3, 2012
posted by something something at 2:18 PM on January 3, 2012
I would go into Brooks Brothers, Nordstrom, or other halfway decent department store and have somebody help you out. Let them pull shirts, ties, and a couple suits to try on. Let the shoe people help you with a few options. Tell them what you told us but don't tell them how much money you have to spend, at least not at first.
posted by Fairchild at 2:18 PM on January 3, 2012
posted by Fairchild at 2:18 PM on January 3, 2012
Have you had a look at confection suits that are geared a bit thinner? Here in europe f.i. if a size 52 is medium, there's also a taller version, either numbered 104 (double) or 53 (uneven nr). Might be cheaper than made to measure.
Although made to measure is great. And looks when you're thin it just looks very sleek.
Be careful about having a suit altered; they can change how it fits around your waist, and take out some fabric between your should blades to fit your chest and shoulders, but around the shoulders it may still look somewhat boxy.
posted by joost de vries at 2:18 PM on January 3, 2012
Although made to measure is great. And looks when you're thin it just looks very sleek.
Be careful about having a suit altered; they can change how it fits around your waist, and take out some fabric between your should blades to fit your chest and shoulders, but around the shoulders it may still look somewhat boxy.
posted by joost de vries at 2:18 PM on January 3, 2012
Also: stick to slim-fit shirts. Regularly cut shirts -- even smalls and extra smalls -- drape poorly on dudes with slight frames and can make you look asymmetric, lumpy, hunched-over or who knows what else. Uniqlo, H&M and Brooks Bros. all carry slim fit shirts. Brooks Bros. even has a variety of slim-fit styles.
posted by griphus at 2:25 PM on January 3, 2012
posted by griphus at 2:25 PM on January 3, 2012
A buddy of mine is very skinny, a few inches taller than you, the same age, and (until a few years ago) was extremely clothing challenged. When he had to get nice clothes for a series of I'm-a-grown-up-now interviews, he walked into Nordstrom (right here in Chicago) and basically begged the first person he saw for help. He walked out looking completely awesome.
Since you've got a bit of money to throw at this, definitely ask someone who does this every day to help get you started.
posted by phunniemee at 2:27 PM on January 3, 2012
Since you've got a bit of money to throw at this, definitely ask someone who does this every day to help get you started.
posted by phunniemee at 2:27 PM on January 3, 2012
Yeah, just hit up a department or men's clothing store. I do most of my shopping at JoS. A. Bank, which as I understand it is sort of the go-to for mid-range, decent quality, conservative, professional men's attire. They have a range of styles and fittings, and can tailor things on-site.
They also have ridiculous sales going most of the time, so if you keep an eye out for stuff you want, you can get a really good deal. Last weekend it was something like buy one suit at regular price ($400-900, mostly), get two suits, two shirts, and two ties free. Equal or lesser value, of course.
The thing to remember here is that you're looking for professional attire, not going-out or making a fashion splash attire. These can certainly be worn "out," as it were, and you can always throw on a blazer or suit jacket over jeans and a shirt, but right now you just need to get your basics. So get yourself a black suit and a navy suit, probably with a subtle stripe, half a dozen or so collared shirts (choice of collar style), and a handful some ties. Mix and match the suits, shirts, and ties and you can get a few dozen outfits out of the same wardrobe.
posted by valkyryn at 2:28 PM on January 3, 2012
They also have ridiculous sales going most of the time, so if you keep an eye out for stuff you want, you can get a really good deal. Last weekend it was something like buy one suit at regular price ($400-900, mostly), get two suits, two shirts, and two ties free. Equal or lesser value, of course.
The thing to remember here is that you're looking for professional attire, not going-out or making a fashion splash attire. These can certainly be worn "out," as it were, and you can always throw on a blazer or suit jacket over jeans and a shirt, but right now you just need to get your basics. So get yourself a black suit and a navy suit, probably with a subtle stripe, half a dozen or so collared shirts (choice of collar style), and a handful some ties. Mix and match the suits, shirts, and ties and you can get a few dozen outfits out of the same wardrobe.
posted by valkyryn at 2:28 PM on January 3, 2012
My friend is your size. His suits all come from Barney's. He checks out various suits made by European designers, finds the narrowest cut and then gets them altered. He never shops anywhere else, and seems to be quite well-dressed.
posted by devymetal at 2:56 PM on January 3, 2012
posted by devymetal at 2:56 PM on January 3, 2012
The Topman in Chicago may be worth checking out. I was there in the NYC store recently and found them overpriced for the quality but the stuff's not bad and they have some affordable suits in slim/skinny fits. They're also having a sale now but I didn't see much.
posted by catwash at 2:58 PM on January 3, 2012
posted by catwash at 2:58 PM on January 3, 2012
For a graduation gift I sent my son to mytailor.com for custom shirts. They went to the city where he lived, and mytailor.com worked out of a hotel, taking his measurements and showing him samples of fabric and different style of shirts.
My son was very satisfied with his shirts, both quality and price. My husband has previously used mytailor, but it was a long time ago. He was also pleased.
posted by 6:1 at 4:00 PM on January 3, 2012
My son was very satisfied with his shirts, both quality and price. My husband has previously used mytailor, but it was a long time ago. He was also pleased.
posted by 6:1 at 4:00 PM on January 3, 2012
I've used both TailorStore (Swedish company with workers in Sri Lanka) and MakeYourOwnJeans (owned and operated from Mumbai, India). Both require that you take your own measurements, both did better with a second order after I fine tuned the measurements based on the garment fit (dress shirt from TailorStore, pants from MakeYourOwnJeans), and I was favourably impressed with customer service as well as value for money from both places.
Neither is a good idea if you can't get someone to measure you carefully and well. I haven't looked at suit jackets or vests from either place.
posted by thatdawnperson at 4:37 PM on January 3, 2012
Neither is a good idea if you can't get someone to measure you carefully and well. I haven't looked at suit jackets or vests from either place.
posted by thatdawnperson at 4:37 PM on January 3, 2012
6'2" 145lbs 28x32 here.
I love the extra slim fit MX2 shirts from Express Men, and they are always buy one, get one half off (so around $100 for two shirts). There are many that are work-appropriate.
If you want to buy shirts that are an investment and will last a long time, Brooks Brothers is nice, but those shirts run about $100 each. They're much higher quality so they'll last forever, and their no-iron shirts are simply fantastic.
As for suits, the best thing you can do is just have the clerk help you. I've bought most of my suits from department stores like Macy's and Nordstrom. If you can get a decent deal on some suits that you like the looks of, it really doesn't cost too much to get them altered. I've had good luck with Calvin Klein and Kenneth Cole, and they're not too terribly pricy.
posted by erstwhile at 4:53 PM on January 3, 2012
I love the extra slim fit MX2 shirts from Express Men, and they are always buy one, get one half off (so around $100 for two shirts). There are many that are work-appropriate.
If you want to buy shirts that are an investment and will last a long time, Brooks Brothers is nice, but those shirts run about $100 each. They're much higher quality so they'll last forever, and their no-iron shirts are simply fantastic.
As for suits, the best thing you can do is just have the clerk help you. I've bought most of my suits from department stores like Macy's and Nordstrom. If you can get a decent deal on some suits that you like the looks of, it really doesn't cost too much to get them altered. I've had good luck with Calvin Klein and Kenneth Cole, and they're not too terribly pricy.
posted by erstwhile at 4:53 PM on January 3, 2012
Armani has a line for slim men. The shoulders are more relaxed and less structured, so you don't end up feeling like a scarecrow. At Saks and Nordstrom now, I think.
posted by halfbuckaroo at 5:38 PM on January 3, 2012
posted by halfbuckaroo at 5:38 PM on January 3, 2012
styleforum.com might help. I'd try out H&M or Uniqlo for some dirt cheap suits/shirts. Shitty quality, but if they fit decently (both are slim), you'll look good, and it's better to learn by buying cheap.
posted by User7 at 5:40 PM on January 3, 2012
posted by User7 at 5:40 PM on January 3, 2012
Maxwell's. They are the only shirts tall, skinny, ape-armed Mr. Go Banana owns. Comes to about $70 CDN per tailored shirt and you pick the fabric, the cuffs, the collars, etc. Perfect fit. I didn't click through but I'm presuming they visit Chicago and/or NY about once every three months as they do here in Toronto.
posted by Go Banana at 7:14 PM on January 3, 2012
posted by Go Banana at 7:14 PM on January 3, 2012
Clothes from Zara should fit you, though I'm not sure if they carry the professional line you are seeking.
posted by lulu68 at 9:31 PM on January 3, 2012
posted by lulu68 at 9:31 PM on January 3, 2012
This thread is closed to new comments.
Their regular stuff is a little on the cheap side -- probably not great for a law firm interview -- but they recently introduced a new line called "J+", which has better make and fabric than their standard stuff (naturally, it is also more expensive.)
posted by griphus at 2:16 PM on January 3, 2012 [2 favorites]