Qatar Travel 101

October 22, 2011 12:16 AM

Visiting Qatar. I need a crash course in everything a visitor needs to know, ideally from someone who's been or lives there.

I've never been out of the Americas, so anything a gringo like me should be keen to when hitting the Middle East - in particular, Qatar:

1. Dress code?
2. Manners?
3. Tipping, ordering?

I'll be in Doha... so any recommendations on anything in particular to do or see also welcome.

posted by Unsomnambulist to travel & transportation around Doha, Qatar (7 answers total)

Rule 1: Don't Panic. It's actually not that bad. First, how long are you visiting for and why? "Visiting" implies non-employment, which makes things simpler. Are you masc or fem? Straight or gay?

What follows applies to Qatar. I've not been anywhere else in the region, and the rules will not necessarily be the same in other Middle Eastern countries. I understand that Saudi Arabia is much more conservative about both liquor and sexual behaviour. In Dubai almost anything goes liquor-wise, but I'm not sure about public sex. Incidentally, Qatar is not part of the United Arab Emirates, just so you know.

Things to do: I'm working here and tend not to go out, particularly in summer, but there's the Museum of Islamic Art, which isn't limited to Islamic art (they had the Dutch Masters exhibition a few months ago), Katara cultural centre, and shopping! Start with the souq--Doha has shopping malls--try Villaggio Mall for a real upscale wallet-emptying experience--but the souqs are more fun. There are tours out into the desert, and I've heard talk of camel races.

It's hot. The weather is cooling down now, but we are still in the low to mid 30s by day and high 20s at night. But malls are generally seriously air-conditioned. I know people who carry jumpers even in summer to deal with the malls' air conditioning.

Transport: Taxis are plentiful. There are the official grey and blue Karwa taxis and all the malls seem to have a deal with another taxi company. Karwa is relatively cheap but the drivers' English is pretty hit or miss, and their knowledge of Doha even more so. Incidentally, there is no street numbering--if you want to go to a particular location and the driver doesn't know it (often the case) you need to know a landmark near by.

Officially there is a dress code that says "modest dress" (and it applies to both sexes), but most non-Muslims dress pretty much the same as in Europe or the US. I tend to dress rather more formally than I might in Australia because the Qatari men tend to dress so beautifully (spotless white dishdash, etc) and I'm damned if I'm going to be made to look like a hobo by comparison. But YMMV. One hears stories about women who are revealing a bit much getting the evil eye, but this must be fairly rare since I regularly see women in shorts or showing cleavage etc.

One major difference is that the sale of alcohol is severely restricted. Yes, alcohol is available legally, but retail sale is only from the government distribution centre and you need a licence. Incidentally, getting that licence was the only time I have been asked to state my religion here. You can buy alcohol with meals in the major hotels, and what you do in your own home is up to you. Qatari Customs will confiscate any alcohol in your luggage on entry. They will also confiscate pork products, pornography and material hostile to Islam.

Public affectionate behaviour is not recommended. One hears stories about people making out in a taxi getting taken to the police. Public affection between men in particular is not encouraged (but the line for unlawful "affectionate" behaviour might be drawn in a different place).

Tipping: Not demanded but I usually do, in restaurants, taxis, etc. I usually give about 10-15%, and I chuck a couple of riyals into the tips jar in the coffee shop.

Ramadan is now over for the year so no worries about not eating in public in daylight.

I've now been here for about seven months and found it pretty easy to get along, but I work in an organisation that has expatriate staff from all over the world and provides a lot of support for them.

Sorry about the info-dump, but without knowing a bit more about your intentions it's hard to be specific. Memail me if you want more.
posted by Logophiliac at 1:21 AM on October 22, 2011 [2 favorites]

Some more general random thoughts.

Handshakes: Much more common than in UK or US. Male acquaintances tend to shake hands every time they meet. Always the right hand. Don't offer a hand to a woman unless she does so first--if she is a Muslim it would probably be regarded as morally suspect for a woman to shake hands with a man. Use your right hand for all greetings, hand-waves, etc. However, Qatar is a very mixed-race, mixed-culture society and you'll probably get away with a certain amount.

It's regarded as rude to show the soles of your shoes to someone--don't sit with the soles facing somebody.

You'll hear the calls to prayer pretty regularly. Shopping malls tend to play it over the public-address system, especially on Fridays. I have never seen anybody take any notice.

If you're not of the Faith (as I presume you are not, else you wouldn't be asking) avoid talking about religion. Christian or other proselytising, or public display of atheism, will get you into trouble. Christian practice is not forbidden but is required to be discreet. There are Christian churches in Doha. I don't know about Judaism or synagogues.

Also, it's not a democracy. The emir is a hereditary ruler, but seems to be popular, and also seems to be doing a decent job.

Look, your question suggests you are nervous. Don't be. Qatar isn't Iran or Saudi Arabia. There is no overt anti-American or anti-European sentiment. You won't be harassed. If you can stick the climate, I think it's a pretty decent place to live.
posted by Logophiliac at 1:39 AM on October 22, 2011

Hey, I'm American and have been in Doha for a little over a year now. Do you have any more specific questions? Feel free to memail me if you want to ask anything.

I agree with the posters above that you should a bit nervous---don't be. I've found that the locals here are pretty laid back about all of the faux pas that westerners tend to warn newbies about.

If you're just visiting, it is highly unlikely that you will speak to a single Qatari. All of the people in the customer service industry are expats.

Tipping: I still haven't figured this one out. The general rule seems to be about 10%, unless you go out somewhere really nice. I would say 50 riyals (15 dollars or so) is about the maximum you would be expected to tip.

Otherwise, just be polite and don't do anything too stupid.
posted by FunGus at 7:41 AM on October 22, 2011

Unsomnambulist, I think you've now heard from the entire Doha mefite community. I agree with FunGus about how on a visit you're not likely to speak to a single Qatari (except for government staff like immigration officers). Which reminds me. Immigration. If you are visiting on your own account (that is, making your own arrangements), think about springing the extra for Al-Maha Meet and Greet. I don't think Immigration is that big a deal for a visitor (you can pay on arrival and it costs about $20, I think), but for a fairly small extra fee they will do it for you and pick up your bags etc while you sit in a pleasant lounge with free coffee and dates and whatever. They are pretty good at it too--when my wife visited she managed to end up in the wrong part of the airport--departures instead of arrivals, they are about 2 km apart--but they tracked her down. We paid for them when my daughters (17 and 12 at the time) visited earlier this year too, and that was very much worth it.

The way tipping was explained to me is that whatever the Islamic view of tipping might be, the service staff are mostly Filipino. Some are Muslim, most are not. They are not brilliantly paid. My informant on tipping said that it was not expected but that a tip tended to improve the service "remarkably".
posted by Logophiliac at 8:06 AM on October 22, 2011 [1 favorite]

More points: I think Logophiliac has given good advice on everything.

1. I 2nd the Al-Maha Meet and Greet. My company did this for me on first arrival, and I've booked it ever since for anyone visiting.

Not that immigration is all that bad (at worst it's just going to be a loooong line), but it's just nice to relax, not have to worry about it, and have the whole process expedited.

2. Also, this doesn't apply if you're being met at the airport, but when you exit the arrivals building there will be several people offering you a 'taxi.' What they are offering is the much more expensive limousine service.

You want to ask for a "normal taxi", which will be to the right.
posted by FunGus at 8:43 AM on October 22, 2011

This is beginning to look like a dialog, but one other small point--the normal work week here is Sunday to Thursday. Friday is prayers day. Malls are open seven days a week, but most shops (except supermarkets) don't open till about 3 pm on Friday (that is, on Friday morning the doors of the mall will be open and you can go in and walk around, but there won't be much to buy). Supermarkets usually close for an hour or so round about noon on Friday, but otherwise are open till about 11 pm or later. Banks open seven days a week too, but limited hours on Friday.

Speaking of malls, both Villaggio Mall and City Centre Mall have skating rinks. Think of playing ice hockey when the temperature outside is in the high 30s. Villaggio Mall has a small canal running through it and you can ride a gondola down the canal.
posted by Logophiliac at 9:05 AM on October 22, 2011

Thanks. I'm actually not nervous, just not having been there, want to avoid any unusual social faux pas.

This is a work thing with a rather large crew, but I'm sure I'll need to escape their wrenches from time to time.

Very much appreciate the info. Very much looking forward to the trip!
posted by Unsomnambulist at 2:51 PM on October 22, 2011