wtf Waterpaper Block : /
July 31, 2011 5:51 PM Subscribe
Watercolor enthusiasts: How do I get the &$%^##%$% paper out of this Aqvarelle Arches hot pressed waterpaper block?
I used a pocket knife to peel off the cover sheet in a mostly successful fashion. Do I have to do that for every sheet? I tried the top sheet and ripped into the paper (only a tiny bit, but I haven't even released one full side).
I'm sure one of you will also tell me why this is a good way to make a pad of paper and why I am an ignorant knave for not knowing at my advanced age (although I'm sure you'll keep that one mostly to yourself, unless you are in a mood.) It does helpfully tell me, in seven languages, "Block of 20 sheets glued on all 4 sides for solidity."
The pocket knife is quite sharp although admittedly I am not the most coordinated person ever.
grar grar expensive paper grar
I used a pocket knife to peel off the cover sheet in a mostly successful fashion. Do I have to do that for every sheet? I tried the top sheet and ripped into the paper (only a tiny bit, but I haven't even released one full side).
I'm sure one of you will also tell me why this is a good way to make a pad of paper and why I am an ignorant knave for not knowing at my advanced age (although I'm sure you'll keep that one mostly to yourself, unless you are in a mood.) It does helpfully tell me, in seven languages, "Block of 20 sheets glued on all 4 sides for solidity."
The pocket knife is quite sharp although admittedly I am not the most coordinated person ever.
grar grar expensive paper grar
That is -- you paint *on* the block, and then remove the painting when it's dry. Don't take the paper off and tape it to a board...that's redundant.
posted by jrochest at 5:56 PM on July 31, 2011 [1 favorite]
posted by jrochest at 5:56 PM on July 31, 2011 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Exacto, duh. Thanks! Yeah, the glue on the edges is annoying, too. Maybe no more waterpaper blocks for me.
posted by Glinn at 6:35 PM on July 31, 2011
posted by Glinn at 6:35 PM on July 31, 2011
Maybe your pad has a bad glue job?. There's usually a gap on the front side of the block where you can slide a blade in to get it started. It's easiest to do with a palette knife, which is thinner and doesn't have sharp edges that can catch the paper.
posted by bonobothegreat at 6:54 PM on July 31, 2011
posted by bonobothegreat at 6:54 PM on July 31, 2011
Best answer: I'm a strict block man, myself, so much that I wish drawing paper were sold that way as well. I find it much more convenient to have a single thing on which I'm drawing, rather than a pad.
First, all blocks have an open space in the glued sides to insert a blade. You don't have to guess or estimate. That's where your cut starts.
The trick to getting a clean cut around the edges without hurting the paper is to insert the blade and angle the sharp edge towards the outside as much as possible. The edge of the blade shouldn't be perpendicular to the glue you're cutting, it should be as close to parallel as possible, facing outwards. The cutting motion is from the interior of the block to the exterior. This means there's no paper edges to catch the blade.
posted by fatbird at 6:59 PM on July 31, 2011
First, all blocks have an open space in the glued sides to insert a blade. You don't have to guess or estimate. That's where your cut starts.
The trick to getting a clean cut around the edges without hurting the paper is to insert the blade and angle the sharp edge towards the outside as much as possible. The edge of the blade shouldn't be perpendicular to the glue you're cutting, it should be as close to parallel as possible, facing outwards. The cutting motion is from the interior of the block to the exterior. This means there's no paper edges to catch the blade.
posted by fatbird at 6:59 PM on July 31, 2011
Response by poster: Yeah I found the open space. But the pocketknife was not a good tool. Maybe by the end of the block I will be an expert at freeing the paper. ;)
posted by Glinn at 7:06 PM on July 31, 2011
posted by Glinn at 7:06 PM on July 31, 2011
Instead of using a sharp pocketknife or a exacto blade, why don't you try something less sharp, like a small butter knife? Cutting right through the watercolor paper is not a good idea.
posted by Numenius at 7:26 PM on July 31, 2011 [1 favorite]
posted by Numenius at 7:26 PM on July 31, 2011 [1 favorite]
A metal palette knife works well for removing the top sheet. Nthing finding the gap.
posted by effluvia at 7:26 PM on July 31, 2011 [1 favorite]
posted by effluvia at 7:26 PM on July 31, 2011 [1 favorite]
A letter opener can work. I've used that. Care is required, though, but you knew that.
posted by Guy_Inamonkeysuit at 5:55 AM on August 1, 2011
posted by Guy_Inamonkeysuit at 5:55 AM on August 1, 2011
I have a small, clean palette knife that I use for this.
posted by R. Mutt at 5:58 AM on August 1, 2011
posted by R. Mutt at 5:58 AM on August 1, 2011
I use a kitchen knife with a long, very sharp blade. You don't risk cutting the paper when you're cutting to the outside, and it makes much faster work.
posted by fatbird at 6:22 AM on August 1, 2011
posted by fatbird at 6:22 AM on August 1, 2011
Best answer: As Numenius suggests, I use a butter knife. The glue gap in the blocks I use is big enough (an inch or two wide) that a regular size butter knife has no issues. I also have butter knives that aren't serrated, so they're basically just big stiff pallete knives. X-actos harbor too much of a danger of cutting the paper, but I think I've also used a palette knife in the past.
posted by LionIndex at 9:55 AM on August 1, 2011
posted by LionIndex at 9:55 AM on August 1, 2011
Best answer: The ideal tools if you have no butterknife. Use as described by fatbird.
Blocks eliminate the need to tape the paper down all around, as well as having to cut it up in the first place. Note that taping/being-blocked allows the wet, warped, buckled paper to dry flat, so don't remove the paper until it is completely dry; it does NOT eliminate the buckling/warping during use. For that you'd need to stretch the paper (or buy 300lb papers that only buckle in extremely wet situations). Stretching is only needed if the buckling is interfering with your work. Many watercolorists find they can work around it; many others (typically those who tend to work wetter than the former group) do not.
posted by dpcoffin at 10:28 AM on August 1, 2011
Blocks eliminate the need to tape the paper down all around, as well as having to cut it up in the first place. Note that taping/being-blocked allows the wet, warped, buckled paper to dry flat, so don't remove the paper until it is completely dry; it does NOT eliminate the buckling/warping during use. For that you'd need to stretch the paper (or buy 300lb papers that only buckle in extremely wet situations). Stretching is only needed if the buckling is interfering with your work. Many watercolorists find they can work around it; many others (typically those who tend to work wetter than the former group) do not.
posted by dpcoffin at 10:28 AM on August 1, 2011
Best answer: The mill those blocks come from has been having issues with their adhesive. Basically, they make stacks of the sheets and chipboard and covers and paint the adhesive onto the sides of the stack. Recently, they switched to a different glue. I'd do the long, sharp knife for now.
posted by Mr. Yuck at 12:39 PM on August 1, 2011
posted by Mr. Yuck at 12:39 PM on August 1, 2011
This thread is closed to new comments.
It's a pain, I agree. They do this so it won't warp and you won't need to tape it to a board.
posted by jrochest at 5:54 PM on July 31, 2011 [1 favorite]