Climbing shoes for guys with Morton's Toe

June 11, 2011 2:27 AM

ShoeFilter: Climbing shoe suggestions for a guy with Morton's Toe. Any thing beyond the Evolv Demorto?

So I have a really behind the line first metatarsal and fitting into the shoes at the climbing gym are pain---ful. I can manage about 10 mins of climbing and that punctuated by constant reminders of my toes screaming murder.

Any advice on shoes I should look at from current users/sufferers? I know about the Evolv Demorto but would like more suggestions as I don't know what exactly will be available in my boondocks. Recommendations on good places with reasonable international shipping will be most gratefully thanked

posted by epiphinite to Shopping (10 answers total)

You're going to want to search for climbing shoes that has a "symmetrical" toe box.

I have a slight Mortons Toe and was able to comfortably wear an incredibly tight pair of the Evolv Optimus Prime all day but I didn't go for them. I have some Mad Rock convicts now but I take them off after every climb.
I go for more aggressive shoes though. What are you looking to do, only climb in the gym? No bouldering?

A lot of the 5.10 lace ups are pretty comfortable.
posted by zephyr_words at 3:23 AM on June 11, 2011

Response by poster: Looking to do both - gym climbing as well as bouldering. Aggressive shoes might be a little too painful I'm guessing since I've quite a significant Morton's Toe. Its not slight at all. Any suggestions on all-day shoes?
posted by epiphinite at 3:53 AM on June 11, 2011

I have a very slight Morton's Toe and have been wearing various Scarpa shoes pain free for the last 10 years. They don't make my current shoe anymore, but having just wandered over to their site the Force looks to be a good bet. The toe box looks roomy, at least from the pics. The first review mentions successfully wearing these with Morton's Toe so these may be just the thing for you. Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
posted by chosemerveilleux at 4:25 AM on June 11, 2011

I would recommend going with a slipper like the 5.10 moccasym as they are much more soft and are going to stretch a little more.
posted by TheBones at 7:54 AM on June 11, 2011

Not a guy, but I have Morton's toe and wear a pair of 5.10 Moccasyms that I got on super sale. They were painfully tight at first but have stretched nicely. Be warned that the red dye will REALLY rub off on your feet!
posted by easy, lucky, free at 9:01 AM on June 11, 2011

My wife has full-on Morton's and for years has only been comfortable in the La Sportiva Mythos. The Moccasyms were too painful for her to wear long enough to conform to her feet. More recently she has been wearing TC-Pros as all-around shoes, which are less comfortable but edge much better than the Mythos. She hasn't tried the Delmorto.
posted by Manjusri at 10:08 AM on June 11, 2011

Response by poster: Thanks for all the suggestions. I'm a little wary of the durability of slippers so will stick to full-on shoes. Seems like have three options so far - the Evolv Demorto, the Scarpa Force and the La Sportiva Mythos. Will let you know what I go for - sadly depends on which one's will available for shipping internationally
posted by epiphinite at 10:18 AM on June 11, 2011

If you are just getting started, I wouldn't worry too much about shoe durability or even performance. Just get the cheapest shoes with a symmetrical toebox you can find. New climbers that haven't acquired "silent feet" technique tend to chew through the rubber on their shoes very quickly.

REI and amazon ship international. spadout.com has a good outdoor gear price aggregator.

We've never tried the demortos but I think I'll pick up a pair of the older model (cheaper and less silly looking imo) for the wife to try . Your size might be cheaper from this guy if you can persuade him to ship international.

Get a pair of flip-flops to quickly change to whenever not actually climbing. Pop the heel off your climbing shoe as soon as you weight the rope. Don't downsize your shoes too much. Personally I always get my climbing shoes in street size or downsized at most 1/2 size.
posted by Manjusri at 11:21 AM on June 11, 2011

I have a wicked bad Morton's toe (I never knew the name for this before!)....I've also been climbing for many years. I have had two pairs of shoes that seemed to fit well for all day climbs: La Sportiva Mythos and Boreal Aces. I think that Boreal hasn't made the Aces model for years but I bet they make something equivalent. In general though, the Mythos are considered by many to be a great all around shoe. If you are going to primarily do bouldering and gym climbing I think you could get something painful and just peel it off between climbs -- a slipper would be ideal for this.
posted by fieldtrip at 6:57 PM on June 11, 2011

Oh, and a pair of shoes that doesn't fit very well (and that I just hate in general) is a pair of Scarpa Infernos...these are also at least 5 years old though so they may have changed entirely since then.
posted by fieldtrip at 6:59 PM on June 11, 2011