Morocco

May 5, 2005 5:51 AM

My boss just told me I'll be going to Casablanca, Morocco for two weeks to work, flying out on Saturday. This is a big suprise, and I could use some advice. A few specific questions: what should I wear to the office (I'm thinking pantsuits and heels)? What about on weekends? Where should I go for the two weekends I'll have there? How can I keep the touts from hassleing me too much (I didn't have much luck with that in India)? Can I wander around safely by myself (small, naive-looking female). How much should I pay for a rug? Anything else I should know? Thanks in advance!
posted by hazyjane to travel & transportation (6 comments total)

Never been to casablanca. But I've been to a few other places in Morocco and had a great time. Tout-wise: they all spoke to me in English (hey am I that obvious?) and I found saying "no thanks", then if they persisted "Non merci" and finally "la shukran" (not sure of the spelling but that's semi phonetic arabic "no-thank you") worked a treat. As for wandering around, the only hassle I got was from salespeople who were polite and over-friendly so not that much of a problem really.

As for the carpet shopping... I always felt a bit crap about haggling but it seems to be expected nearly everywhere. I tended not to bother much - the money means so much more over there and even when they're "ripping you off" it's cheaper than the UK. So I guess my answer to the "How much do I pay for a rug?" question is, well, it depends on how long you want to spend drinking peppermint tea and talking about price. One tip I used was to put the amount of money you're willing to spend in one pocket so you can always pull it out and say "Hey I've only got this - i'll come back later when I have thought about it". The shopkeeper's not going to accept it if it's going to leave them at a loss, but they're not going to want you to leave their shop and see any more carpets elsewhere. And going away to think about it might well be a good idea anyway.

Other advice? Get some saffron - it's dirt cheap and great. Taxis are really cheap and abundant so if you're not confident walking around there's still no need to stay still. Really short shorts and vests are a bad idea but I didn't get any hassle wearing long shorts and fairly voluminous t-shirts so you don't have to do the total cover-up thing. Peppermint tea is lovely. Do you have any French? That really helps. Everyone wanted to practice their English and I wanted to practice my French, so I had loads of long conversations with taxi drivers and waiters etc.

And have a great time. I loved visiting Morocco and can't wait to go back.
posted by handee at 6:19 AM on May 5, 2005

Pantsuits are a very good idea. And no low-cut tops, even if it's 100+ degrees in the shade, which happens.

Where should I go for the two weekends I'll have there?

Marracech, definately. Fes if you're feeling up to it. Essaouira is a pretty beach town.

How can I keep the touts from hassleing me too much (I didn't have much luck with that in India)?

Casablanca is easily the nicest city in Morocco. Lots of police presence means you won't get hassled by the touts as much as normal, but they'll still be there. Probably not as bad as India, however, but they can be persistent.
The single best strategy is to just keep walking. Do not make eye contact. Do not keep saying "No, no thank you, no really, I'm not interested, really." The sheer fact that you're talking to them will only encourage them, no matter what you're saying.

Can I wander around safely by myself (small, naive-looking female).

Eeeh. Well, you can. Just put on a New Yorker face (look straight ahead and walk like you're going someplace) and you should be fine. Be confident and assertive, and don't feel ashamed if you feel you have to make a scene or two to get your point across (yelling, swearing, etc.)

How much should I pay for a rug?

Depends on the size and the knots (double or single). Figure a 8x12 rug double-knotted should run you about $500. Quality rugs made in-country have paper labels on the back of them in one of the corners that have all the pertinent information on them. Bargain haaaard, and be prepared to walk out at any point. Never fall in love with a product--they can smell it, and it will hurt your bargaining position. handee's recommendation about only bringing what you want to pay is apt, unfortunately what will happen is that they'll just try and get you to buy a smaller rug instead.

If you do end up going to Fes, you should take the opportunity to see the dye pits (it's appropriately in the same area where the carpets are sold/made). Also, expect to see some child labor. At least they have jobs.

Anything else I should know?

Have fun!
posted by Civil_Disobedient at 7:36 AM on May 5, 2005

If you make it to Marrakech, you should try and watch the sunset over the central square, Djemaa El Fna, while drinking mint tea, from the terrace of the Cafe de France. Afterwards the square is (or used to be) a mass of food vendors, if you don't mind eating street food.

Re. buying stuff:
- Try and avoid a constant "I must not get ripped off" mentality. That's not what it's about. Get something you like, not something that you think might be a tremendous bargain compared to western prices (which is just a kind of ripping off of 'them,' if you see what I mean).
- If you want to avoid getting ripped off, stay away from *anything* real expensive, particularly carpets, jewellery, 'precious' stones, 'gold/silver,' etc. Unless you have real experience of pricing these you will be had, especially by somebody promising to sell you something which they say costs x times more in the west. They're appealing to your greed.
- To test if a carpet is wool, pull a few bits of fuzz off the top and set a lighter to it; wool will burn with a 'burnt hair' smell and disappear or leave ashes, anything synthetic will melt/ball-up and smell of plastic.
- If you don't want to haggle look out for government/state-run handicraft coops. The prices are often fixed and the quality can be good. It will look more expensive than the soukh, but it's not. Check your guide book (see below).
- In terms of bang for the tourist buck, one of my favourite buys was brightly coloured, woven wool blankets. They were cheap, and they make very nice throws, wall hangings, etc.

Anything else I should know?
- A Lonely Planet, Rough Guide, or similar, is useful, especially for working out bus stations/long distance buses, cheap hotels, etc. You can get long distance taxis too, they're pretty cheap, and you'll have to share.
- Michelin have a good Morocco map, if you are interested in maps.
- Get a French phrase book.
- It could be pretty hot; have sun hat, and a shoulder bag that holds a water bottle. If you're worried about the water take a nalgene bottle and some purifying equipment (tabs, pump. etc.).
- Eat a good tajine (tah-jeen) and couscous.
- And yes, have fun!
posted by carter at 8:24 AM on May 5, 2005

Marrakech is a must see and dinner from the food vendors on the Djema el Fnaa a must do. I had (vegetarian) dinner there 5 nights in a row with no bad consequences, it's a great way to meet the locals and other travellers as you sit on benches at communal tables. Marrakech is so fantastic that I would just spend both weekends there but if you don't want to do that then I also highly recommend Essaouira, the perfect place for chilling out on the coast.

The touts are nowhere near as bad as they are in India and when I do go into a craft/rug/souvenir shop I let it be known that I am a student with very little money (this works).

I have travelled a fair bit in Morocco (going for my fifth time in 10 days) and have had no problems communicating even though I don't speak Arabic, French or Spanish. Get a guide book, I use the Rough Guide.

The only sight worth seeing in Casablanca is the new Mosque, it is spectacular and awe inspiring.
posted by DelusionsofGrandeur at 10:20 AM on May 5, 2005

hazyjane posted "Where should I go for the two weekends I'll have there"

Rick's Cafe Americain. Everybody goes to Rick's. It's even said you can do some gambling there, sing the Marseillaise to drown out the Horst Wessel Lied, or obtain rare safe-conduct passes allowing escape to Spain despite the Nazis.

But if you go, be warned: the place is in black and white.
posted by orthogonality at 10:37 AM on May 5, 2005 [1 favorite]

Make sure, if you go to Marrakech or Fez, to wander all the way to the back of the covered markets. A lot of the stuff in the very front is very cheap, touristy or not very interesting. As you go further back you'll see more of what the locals go there to buy. When I was there someone offered me live hawks, dried goat heads, snakes, very used shoes, about 50 eggs and lots of pretty metal and earthenware bowls and tea sets. I also will third the open market square in Marrakech at night. We actually ate at one of the "nice" restaurants on the second or third floor overlooking the square, but the scene was fantastic. And we did go down to get dessert, some oranges, and some really great roasted pumpkin seeds.
Morrocan cities are pretty cosomopolitan and we saw people dressed all kinds of ways. You should probably go with loose, long sleeved shirts and pants, just because it's hot and the sun will burn you in a second, but you can wear long shorts if you have to. Be prepared for all of the men to call you "gazelle." They mostly mean it in a good way. Don't even try to respond to all the people who will say "bonjour gazelle" on the street and in the markets. You'll never get anywhere.
Have fun!
posted by ohio at 9:00 PM on May 5, 2005