Log jack alternatives.
March 21, 2011 3:07 AM Subscribe
Is a log jack a must-buy accessory for cutting fallen trees and limbs with a chainsaw, or are there other ways to elevate logs and avoid binding?
The powerful winds of February felled many trees in my yard, and I've gassed up my Stihl Farm Boss chainsaw to cope with the problem. On my first outing, during which I cut up 12"- and 14"-diameter trees as they lay flush with the ground, the expected happened--the cut in the log closed up and bound my saw, freezing the chain and making bar difficult to remove. Elevating them above ground seems to be the only solution.
Ordinarily I'd buy a log jack, but the jacks I've seen on the Internet seem insubstantial, and only accommodate 12" diameter logs. I've had mixed results from log jacks in the past. Are there other workarounds or kludges that I might use? For instance, could I prop up the tree or limb on a base, such as another log, or a rock or stump, and begin my cut? What are the techniques that you prefer?
If a log jack is absolutely essential, I'll buy one. Product recommendations invited.
The powerful winds of February felled many trees in my yard, and I've gassed up my Stihl Farm Boss chainsaw to cope with the problem. On my first outing, during which I cut up 12"- and 14"-diameter trees as they lay flush with the ground, the expected happened--the cut in the log closed up and bound my saw, freezing the chain and making bar difficult to remove. Elevating them above ground seems to be the only solution.
Ordinarily I'd buy a log jack, but the jacks I've seen on the Internet seem insubstantial, and only accommodate 12" diameter logs. I've had mixed results from log jacks in the past. Are there other workarounds or kludges that I might use? For instance, could I prop up the tree or limb on a base, such as another log, or a rock or stump, and begin my cut? What are the techniques that you prefer?
If a log jack is absolutely essential, I'll buy one. Product recommendations invited.
I don't have a log jack, and I'm typically cutting around 20 cubic metres of sometimes really fat logs for firewood every spring from a huge pile, where closing cuts and rolling logs and left-over branches under tension etc. are a constant worry.
What's essential is that you address the closing-up before it happens (i.e. when planning the cut) and that you learn how to anticipate where things will roll after the cut has been made. Meaning that before you even consider the hardware, it's about strategy.
Then, since you're cutting anyway, you can always prepare some wedges from bits of wood to support the log at the side of the planned cut where it presses down (or up, depending on how you look at it, right...). The other trick is, of course, to make a cut from below if it can be predicted to close if made from above. But you need free space under the log for that, and you must be aware that your saw will pull the other way.
(Obviously, too, you should first get rid of the twigs and smaller branches in a fallen tree and attack the thick bits latest of all, in order to reduce the risk of undetected tensions and spring effects.)
Be safe.
posted by Namlit at 3:27 AM on March 21, 2011
What's essential is that you address the closing-up before it happens (i.e. when planning the cut) and that you learn how to anticipate where things will roll after the cut has been made. Meaning that before you even consider the hardware, it's about strategy.
Then, since you're cutting anyway, you can always prepare some wedges from bits of wood to support the log at the side of the planned cut where it presses down (or up, depending on how you look at it, right...). The other trick is, of course, to make a cut from below if it can be predicted to close if made from above. But you need free space under the log for that, and you must be aware that your saw will pull the other way.
(Obviously, too, you should first get rid of the twigs and smaller branches in a fallen tree and attack the thick bits latest of all, in order to reduce the risk of undetected tensions and spring effects.)
Be safe.
posted by Namlit at 3:27 AM on March 21, 2011
I always just cut a log off, then lifted up one end while a helper put the log under the middle area; then cut logs off whichever end is sticking up in the air. If no helper is available, place the log, then lift and pivot the tree over onto the log. If the tree is too heavy, cut it into manageable sections.
posted by Menthol at 3:52 AM on March 21, 2011
posted by Menthol at 3:52 AM on March 21, 2011
I've set up a tripod of fence posts over the skinny end of the trunk and then used a come-along anchored to another tree to lift it up. It does not need to be fancy. You're a few meters away when you're on the winch so if you don't have it right and it collapses, no one's gonna get hurt and you can try again. Once you have some daylight under the tree, slide something under the trunk just below where you want to cut it (a 2x4 for example), lower it back down, and cut away.
posted by three blind mice at 4:13 AM on March 21, 2011
posted by three blind mice at 4:13 AM on March 21, 2011
You have to develop that "tree sense" where you can visualize the weight of the logs and how they are sitting on the ground and what will happen when their weight changes. Sometimes rolling the logs to a little swell in the ground rather than a dip is all you need to do.
Or, what Namlit says.
One strategy, if you have a log that is simply immovable, is to cut a series of V cuts that will relieve the "closing up pressure" of the cut you want to make. Break the job into roughly thirds, predict how much the log will flex, and make the V as narrow as possible while still being able to maneuver the saw in and out. So you cut the first one until the saw just starts to feel like it wants to bind. Then cut the opposing V down to that point. As the log flexes, instead of two pieces of log pinching against the saw, there is a small wedge of wood in there that will give and let the saw pass.
And make damn sure you are uphill of the log's weight.
posted by gjc at 6:56 AM on March 21, 2011 [2 favorites]
Or, what Namlit says.
One strategy, if you have a log that is simply immovable, is to cut a series of V cuts that will relieve the "closing up pressure" of the cut you want to make. Break the job into roughly thirds, predict how much the log will flex, and make the V as narrow as possible while still being able to maneuver the saw in and out. So you cut the first one until the saw just starts to feel like it wants to bind. Then cut the opposing V down to that point. As the log flexes, instead of two pieces of log pinching against the saw, there is a small wedge of wood in there that will give and let the saw pass.
And make damn sure you are uphill of the log's weight.
posted by gjc at 6:56 AM on March 21, 2011 [2 favorites]
Get some plastic felling wedges. They come in three sizes. Cut half way through the log and then insert one or two plastic wedges to keep the cut open. Just tap them in with the heel of your hand. Plastic is used in case you accidentally nick the wedge with your cutting bar. You still need to be mindful of what the two cut ends will do when you finish the cut. You don't want the pieces flying up or down or rolling on you.
posted by JackFlash at 11:36 AM on March 21, 2011
posted by JackFlash at 11:36 AM on March 21, 2011
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And just to get it out of the way, be very careful if you're using a chainsaw and you're not very used to using one. I won't get into all of the details, but please use some hearing and eye protection, and I really recommend getting some chaps. And I'll say that the most important things to know safety-wise are never let the tip of a running chainsaw touch anything (unless you're skilled and doing a plunge or bore cut) and use the chain brake all the time if you're walking around with a running saw.
That said, If you're getting pinching, then the log is not exactly flush with the ground.
Shit. I wish I had time to write more, but seriously, read a Husqvarna manual; they have a great deal of useful information. You just need to get used to seeing where the tension is in the wood, and cut accordingly, and getting logs to the point where you can roll them and finish cuts. Also, you can use a felling wedge or even a little twig shoved into the kerf of a cut to hold it open if you're afraid of pinching.
posted by Red Loop at 3:23 AM on March 21, 2011 [3 favorites]