Ryokan, not Hadouken
January 8, 2011 5:43 AM Subscribe
Are mid/lower-priced ryokan (with kaiseki etc) worth it? And a bonus ryokan-related question!
We're going to Japan in February, and I'm tremendously excited, I've wanted to visit for ten years. We're trying to stay at least in the ball park of financially responsible, but at the same time I'm aware I may not be heading back any time soon.
We're looking potentially at two "proper" (i.e. with dinner etc) ryokan stays, one in Hakone, and one possibly in Miyajima - both of which we've heard are lovely.
My questions are twofold:
1) Are ryokans on the the cheaper (ballpark $300) end of the spectrum worth staying at? Tripadvisor implies that some are, but that darned site can be a little wacky with the expectations some travellers bring to the table. Assume I'm a normal person for these purposes, and I know what decent Japanese food tastes like, and is and isn't.
2) Is staying overnight in Miyajima worth it? I've found what looks to a reasonable ryokan for around $300, but I've also found some pretty good budget (non ryokan) accommodation in Hiroshima which looks like it's in a good spot. Is sleeping over at miyajima in a niceish ryokan worth the extra $230 I guess is my question?
Any ryokan reccs for Hakone or Miyajima in that budget (if that's at all realistic) would be welcome, too. Thanks very much, guys.
We're going to Japan in February, and I'm tremendously excited, I've wanted to visit for ten years. We're trying to stay at least in the ball park of financially responsible, but at the same time I'm aware I may not be heading back any time soon.
We're looking potentially at two "proper" (i.e. with dinner etc) ryokan stays, one in Hakone, and one possibly in Miyajima - both of which we've heard are lovely.
My questions are twofold:
1) Are ryokans on the the cheaper (ballpark $300) end of the spectrum worth staying at? Tripadvisor implies that some are, but that darned site can be a little wacky with the expectations some travellers bring to the table. Assume I'm a normal person for these purposes, and I know what decent Japanese food tastes like, and is and isn't.
2) Is staying overnight in Miyajima worth it? I've found what looks to a reasonable ryokan for around $300, but I've also found some pretty good budget (non ryokan) accommodation in Hiroshima which looks like it's in a good spot. Is sleeping over at miyajima in a niceish ryokan worth the extra $230 I guess is my question?
Any ryokan reccs for Hakone or Miyajima in that budget (if that's at all realistic) would be welcome, too. Thanks very much, guys.
My family stayed at a really cheap ryokan ($35 per person per night at the time) in 2006 and had a great time. It didn't come with the dinner, but the ryokan itself was still a good experience albeit very basic. I would venture to say that if they have a washlet in the bathroom, you'll probably enjoy your stay at the place. But still $300 is not terribly cheap, so I don't even think you need to be all that concerned in regards to the price alone.
posted by wondermouse at 6:53 AM on January 8, 2011
posted by wondermouse at 6:53 AM on January 8, 2011
Lower-end ryokan are definitely worth it. I stayed at lower end to medium priced ryokan all over Japan throughout the late 1990s and I always had spectacular feasts and stays.
I can't speak to Miyajima in particular but I cannot imagine that you would regret it.
If at all possible I would recommend a ryokan that is not pitched to foreign tourists.
posted by vincele at 7:21 AM on January 8, 2011
I can't speak to Miyajima in particular but I cannot imagine that you would regret it.
If at all possible I would recommend a ryokan that is not pitched to foreign tourists.
posted by vincele at 7:21 AM on January 8, 2011
I'm pretty sure there was no place in japan I would've regretted spending a night. Especially at a ryokan which can be a self-contained experience no matter where it is. I will say one thing, hakone ryokans seem to cost more for the same level of niceness as ryokans in less convenient to Tokyo regions. So you might not be able to get as nice a place there as you would elsewhere. And try to avoid holidays in hakone, it is really a hugely popular and crowded tourist attraction.
posted by ch1x0r at 8:02 AM on January 8, 2011
posted by ch1x0r at 8:02 AM on January 8, 2011
I'd find a stay in any ryokan acceptable, but I'm what's labeled a back-packer -- given your $300/night (minimum!) budget, you're what I'd call a high-roller, so I dunno.
But it does seem like an overnight in Miyajima is recommened -- the reason I couldn't go, when I was in Hiroshima, was the excursion to Itsukushima seems to require a whole day. And after reading Richie's Inland Sea I want to not only visit but go back to that shrine, in the evening.
posted by Rash at 11:12 AM on January 8, 2011
But it does seem like an overnight in Miyajima is recommened -- the reason I couldn't go, when I was in Hiroshima, was the excursion to Itsukushima seems to require a whole day. And after reading Richie's Inland Sea I want to not only visit but go back to that shrine, in the evening.
posted by Rash at 11:12 AM on January 8, 2011
Best answer: If you've never been to Japan before, spending $300 per person for a one-night stay is not a good use of your money.
$150 per person would be a fantastic experience for a Japan neophyte; spending $100 per person per night (including dinner and breakfast the following morning) would be most suitable. For example, I recently helped a work colleague plan a trip to Japan. One of the places she stayed at was a temple lodging at Koya-san, which included a Buddhist gourmet vegetarian dinner. There were three options: she chose the cheapest, and still enjoyed the experience immensely.
Logistically, if you're arriving at Narita and are heading towards Hiroshima, Hakone is a good place to aim for along the way, although you do have to take an extra train to get their.
Atami might be a better (and perhaps more interesting) choice, as there is a Shinkansen stop in town. There will also be better deals in Atami, and you could even do a day trip to Shuzenji hot spring from there.
posted by KokuRyu at 12:21 PM on January 8, 2011
$150 per person would be a fantastic experience for a Japan neophyte; spending $100 per person per night (including dinner and breakfast the following morning) would be most suitable. For example, I recently helped a work colleague plan a trip to Japan. One of the places she stayed at was a temple lodging at Koya-san, which included a Buddhist gourmet vegetarian dinner. There were three options: she chose the cheapest, and still enjoyed the experience immensely.
Logistically, if you're arriving at Narita and are heading towards Hiroshima, Hakone is a good place to aim for along the way, although you do have to take an extra train to get their.
Atami might be a better (and perhaps more interesting) choice, as there is a Shinkansen stop in town. There will also be better deals in Atami, and you could even do a day trip to Shuzenji hot spring from there.
posted by KokuRyu at 12:21 PM on January 8, 2011
Best answer: Is staying overnight in Miyajima worth it?
Yes! The island is crowded with school groups during the day, but at night it is deserted and calm and beautiful. The individualized service you get at a ryokan is completely worth $300 a night (150 a person).
posted by betweenthebars at 2:14 PM on January 8, 2011
Yes! The island is crowded with school groups during the day, but at night it is deserted and calm and beautiful. The individualized service you get at a ryokan is completely worth $300 a night (150 a person).
posted by betweenthebars at 2:14 PM on January 8, 2011
Response by poster: Thanks all! And yes, I should have been clearer - $300 was for the two of us. Much as I would love the gold treatment that would imply per individual, that is definitely beyond my financially responsible ball park!
posted by smoke at 3:32 PM on January 8, 2011
posted by smoke at 3:32 PM on January 8, 2011
Best answer: I stayed at the Arimoto ryokan in Miyajima in the 15000-per-person range with my parents. It was quite a nice place and I enjoyed it, but I find that I actually don't really like the kaiseki food that much. There are a lot of small somewhat mysterious dishes. If you are more food-adventurous I would go for it. It looks a little bit more expensive than 15000 now. Miyajima will also probably be cold, and ryokan tend to have not-as-good insulation. I think the shrine and town are definitely best when there are few people, which will be early in the morning or late in the evening. The shrine opens up for visitors at the crack of dawn, and I would suggest going as close to then as possible, even though it will be chilly in February!
I also just stayed at a temple lodging in Koya-san (3 nights ago). I was actually much more happy with the food there, but I don't know if I would recommend staying there in February. It was possibly unusually cold, but it was -5ºC and going out to the bathrooms, which are completely unheated, can be quite unpleasant.
I totally enjoy looking up hotels etc so if you want some help with other lodgings you can memail me if you want help!
posted by that girl at 6:53 PM on January 10, 2011
I also just stayed at a temple lodging in Koya-san (3 nights ago). I was actually much more happy with the food there, but I don't know if I would recommend staying there in February. It was possibly unusually cold, but it was -5ºC and going out to the bathrooms, which are completely unheated, can be quite unpleasant.
I totally enjoy looking up hotels etc so if you want some help with other lodgings you can memail me if you want help!
posted by that girl at 6:53 PM on January 10, 2011
Response by poster: Oh for anybody looking at this in the future, we stayed at Kikugawa Ryokan in Miyajima, and it was an excellent experience. The weather was absolutely horrible that night, but the fog and rain made the whole place magical and we were like the only people on the street. Food and lodging at Kikugawa was excellent.
posted by smoke at 8:01 PM on May 13, 2011 [1 favorite]
posted by smoke at 8:01 PM on May 13, 2011 [1 favorite]
This thread is closed to new comments.
One thing, when you're in Hiroshima, whatever you do don't miss the survivors memorial, it's tucked away and much less visible than the peace museum or genbaku dome - and it is absolutely astonishing.
Enjoy yourself, Japan is fantastic.
posted by The Monkey at 6:32 AM on January 8, 2011