Totally tubular, or gag me with a spoon?
July 14, 2010 8:23 AM Subscribe
Bike Commuter-Filter: Should I replace these tubular rims/tires with clinchers?
I've just purchased a vintage Peugeot in excellent condition, and which I intend to ride as my daily commuter (approx. 20mi/day, in flat city conditions). The bike's ready to ride save for one thing: At the moment, it's got no tires.
My Problem: The bike (1972-ish PX-10) came with its original Mavic Montlhéry tubular rims, and I have no experience with tubular tires--consequently, I'm kind of afraid of them. (Will they slip off and kill me? Will I glue them on properly? Will my LBS install them? Will I have to pump them up constantly?)
What are your experiences riding sewups on a commuter? Should I give tubulars a try (mainly so as not to have to rebuild these wheels right now) and see how I like them? Or should I switch over to clinchers now? If I do try sewups, can anyone recommend a durable and reasonably affordable brand?
My main concerns are 1) Safety and 2) Minimizing hassle. Not spending many hundreds of dollars getting this bike ridable asap would be a close third. I don't race, don't care about modest weight savings, and while I'd rather not replace the original rims right now, this bike is a rider, not a butterfly specimen under glass.
Would appreciate input from the Mefi's bike folks. Thanks.
I've just purchased a vintage Peugeot in excellent condition, and which I intend to ride as my daily commuter (approx. 20mi/day, in flat city conditions). The bike's ready to ride save for one thing: At the moment, it's got no tires.
My Problem: The bike (1972-ish PX-10) came with its original Mavic Montlhéry tubular rims, and I have no experience with tubular tires--consequently, I'm kind of afraid of them. (Will they slip off and kill me? Will I glue them on properly? Will my LBS install them? Will I have to pump them up constantly?)
What are your experiences riding sewups on a commuter? Should I give tubulars a try (mainly so as not to have to rebuild these wheels right now) and see how I like them? Or should I switch over to clinchers now? If I do try sewups, can anyone recommend a durable and reasonably affordable brand?
My main concerns are 1) Safety and 2) Minimizing hassle. Not spending many hundreds of dollars getting this bike ridable asap would be a close third. I don't race, don't care about modest weight savings, and while I'd rather not replace the original rims right now, this bike is a rider, not a butterfly specimen under glass.
Would appreciate input from the Mefi's bike folks. Thanks.
Changing a tube and/or tire on clinchers is easy as pie. You can have a new tube in and be back on the road in minutes. Even a torn tire is easily patched with a folded dollar bill. While you can do the same with a clincher, you have to glue it up when you get home, tubes/tires are harder to find around town, and the replacement is significantly bulkier to carry around with you.
Although it will add significantly to the expense of getting the bike rideable, I would change out the wheels if you can afford it. Clinchers are not really commute friendly.
posted by OmieWise at 8:46 AM on July 14, 2010
Although it will add significantly to the expense of getting the bike rideable, I would change out the wheels if you can afford it. Clinchers are not really commute friendly.
posted by OmieWise at 8:46 AM on July 14, 2010
Yea, commuting will guarantee that you'll be sitting on the side of the road in your work clothes fixing a flat, it'll be messy enough without having to deal with glue and other stuff.
Get yourself from Continental Gatorskins which won't eliminate flats but should drastically reduce them. Here's hoping you get the flats on your way home rather than on the way in.
posted by splatta at 8:49 AM on July 14, 2010
Get yourself from Continental Gatorskins which won't eliminate flats but should drastically reduce them. Here's hoping you get the flats on your way home rather than on the way in.
posted by splatta at 8:49 AM on July 14, 2010
Although you could get a durable tubular tire for commuting, such as a Continental Gatorskin, IMO, it's not worth the hassle. Sure, you can use Tufo tubular tape so you won't have to mess with glue, but do you really want to be stretching and taping tires on your commute in the rain or snow? Note that installation isn't the difficult part, but what you have to do in case of a flat. You most likely won't be able to walk into a shop and have it repaired quickly, so you'll have to carry a spare tire with you to keep rolling. Riding tubulars, you won't be able to take advantage of aid from a passing cyclist, who may be carrying a tube, patch kit or tire lever or mini-pump should you not be.
Have the hubs relaced to a modern alloy clincher rim, and you'll see better braking as well as fixing flats get much easier.
posted by stachemaster at 8:52 AM on July 14, 2010
Have the hubs relaced to a modern alloy clincher rim, and you'll see better braking as well as fixing flats get much easier.
posted by stachemaster at 8:52 AM on July 14, 2010
Sheldon's got a good list of pros and cons,
They're safe if you use glue and apply it properly, the tape isn't quite so good, but unless you're cornering at high speed shouldn't be an issue. Latex tubes are more porous than butyl rubber, so you do have to pump them up more often, probably daily.
However you can ride (slowly and carefully) with a flat tyre and they're more resistant to pinch flats, but still not worth the hassle.
Fixing a puncture involves finding where it is, cutting the thread (carefully to avoid another hole!), patching the tube, then sewing the tub back up and mounting it back on the wheel. And then remounting it, because it's not on straight.
So, in short, punt the wheels on eBay to someone restoring a bike, buy some clinchers and fit Conti's or Schwalbe Marathons.
posted by SyntacticSugar at 8:59 AM on July 14, 2010
They're safe if you use glue and apply it properly, the tape isn't quite so good, but unless you're cornering at high speed shouldn't be an issue. Latex tubes are more porous than butyl rubber, so you do have to pump them up more often, probably daily.
However you can ride (slowly and carefully) with a flat tyre and they're more resistant to pinch flats, but still not worth the hassle.
Fixing a puncture involves finding where it is, cutting the thread (carefully to avoid another hole!), patching the tube, then sewing the tub back up and mounting it back on the wheel. And then remounting it, because it's not on straight.
So, in short, punt the wheels on eBay to someone restoring a bike, buy some clinchers and fit Conti's or Schwalbe Marathons.
posted by SyntacticSugar at 8:59 AM on July 14, 2010
Don't destroy the wheels you already have; some vintage Peugeot enthusiast would absolutely prize them, and if they are in perfect condition, might actually pay you for the privilege.
Just buy a new (or used) set of clincher wheels. According to a Cycling Forums page, your brakes are set up to track on a 700c clincher rim perfectly.
A former girlfriend had one of these of a similar date of manufacture, and as I dimly recall, hers had a five speed freewheel. If you try to go above about six on a new set of wheels, you may run into issues of axle length and might also need a new chain because the one you have could be too wide.
posted by jamjam at 9:45 AM on July 14, 2010
Just buy a new (or used) set of clincher wheels. According to a Cycling Forums page, your brakes are set up to track on a 700c clincher rim perfectly.
A former girlfriend had one of these of a similar date of manufacture, and as I dimly recall, hers had a five speed freewheel. If you try to go above about six on a new set of wheels, you may run into issues of axle length and might also need a new chain because the one you have could be too wide.
posted by jamjam at 9:45 AM on July 14, 2010
Nthing all the comments about tubulars not being worth the hassle unless you are in a race with dedicated wheel support.
Consider also that decent tubulars are expensive. Like $100 each. It'll cost you less in the long run if you switch to clinchers.
posted by randomstriker at 9:57 AM on July 14, 2010
Consider also that decent tubulars are expensive. Like $100 each. It'll cost you less in the long run if you switch to clinchers.
posted by randomstriker at 9:57 AM on July 14, 2010
Dear god. I rode on tubulars way longer than I should have. Do not commute on tubulars. Second jamjam's advice to sell them and get a new set of clinchers.
Changing a flat on a tubular by the road is easy. Rip off the old tire and roll on a new tire. Of course, the new tire isn't glued to the rim, and at some point you'll need to actually patch the puncture. Many racers who ride (or rode) tubulars would get enough tires to last through the racing season, and then have a massive patching fest during the off-season. I had roughly 50% success patching tubulars myself.
The only reasons to ride on tubulars these days are A) you are a retro-fetishist; B) you are a masochist; C) you have a team mechanic. A tubular wheel/rim combo is slightly lighter than a clincher setup, but that doesn't really come into play in commuting.
posted by adamrice at 10:05 AM on July 14, 2010
Changing a flat on a tubular by the road is easy. Rip off the old tire and roll on a new tire. Of course, the new tire isn't glued to the rim, and at some point you'll need to actually patch the puncture. Many racers who ride (or rode) tubulars would get enough tires to last through the racing season, and then have a massive patching fest during the off-season. I had roughly 50% success patching tubulars myself.
The only reasons to ride on tubulars these days are A) you are a retro-fetishist; B) you are a masochist; C) you have a team mechanic. A tubular wheel/rim combo is slightly lighter than a clincher setup, but that doesn't really come into play in commuting.
posted by adamrice at 10:05 AM on July 14, 2010
nthing the suggestion to ditch the tubulars, and also to pitch them as "retro" on ebay or craigslist. People are eating that crap up right now.
I'd find a local wheelbuilder and explain the situation. I bet with some judicious parts shopping and maybe used hubs you could bring a clincher wheelset in for under $250 USD. Better yet, find a used wheelset and have them repacked and trued.
posted by werkzeuger at 11:32 AM on July 14, 2010
I'd find a local wheelbuilder and explain the situation. I bet with some judicious parts shopping and maybe used hubs you could bring a clincher wheelset in for under $250 USD. Better yet, find a used wheelset and have them repacked and trued.
posted by werkzeuger at 11:32 AM on July 14, 2010
Here's a decent wheelset from Harris Cyclery for $130. The rear wheel should work with your current freewheel cluster, unless you've got something weird like the old French threading. Your rear dropouts may have a 120mm spacing, but Harris says the 126mm hub will probably fit (scroll down to last wheelset). If not, there's always cold setting.
posted by hydrophonic at 1:43 PM on July 14, 2010
posted by hydrophonic at 1:43 PM on July 14, 2010
Response by poster: Thanks everyone! The unanimity of your input has undoubtedly spared me from making an expensive and very frustrating mistake! Your responses really helped me.
Per your suggestions, I'm going to try to sell these gorgeous original wheels intact and keep my eyes on Craigslist for a nice set of Mavic/Weinmann clincher wheels. In the meantime, I think I'll put the [99% true] wheels from my current commuter, a 1975 Raleigh Grand Prix, on the PX-10. Thanks again!
posted by applemeat at 7:02 AM on July 15, 2010
Per your suggestions, I'm going to try to sell these gorgeous original wheels intact and keep my eyes on Craigslist for a nice set of Mavic/Weinmann clincher wheels. In the meantime, I think I'll put the [99% true] wheels from my current commuter, a 1975 Raleigh Grand Prix, on the PX-10. Thanks again!
posted by applemeat at 7:02 AM on July 15, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by jon1270 at 8:44 AM on July 14, 2010