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I need ice! Help me make it happen.
July 1, 2010 7:29 PM   Subscribe

I bought a kit to hook up my ice maker to a cold water line. I am having a hard time figuring out how to get the poly tube connected to the saddle valve. Pics inside... Also, I am aware that the back side of the saddle valve is not pictured. I have that, but its not in the pictures.

The kit, in theory, should work together perfectly. However, I am having a bear of a time getting the poly tube connected to the saddle valve output. I have attached pictures of every part that came with the kit. See if you can make sense of it. The diagrams on the packaging show a plastic cover that should go over the end of the tubing that I am either not identifying correctly or I do not have it in the kit (which is possible, but not probable).

Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3
posted by Brettus to Home & Garden (8 answers total) 1 user marked this as a favorite
 
Take the plastic kit back and buy a proper copper kit. You'll be much better off, believe me.
posted by ganzhimself at 7:36 PM on July 1, 2010


Not sure about the plastic tubing, worked with lots of copper in my days but not much plastic.

Is it possible that the brass piece that looks like a wedding band is to be used with copper tubing, and not to be used if with plastic?

And those cylindrical brass pieces, I'm assuming they go inside the plastic where it joins into a fitting, to keep it from crushing -- have I got that right? (I'm just shooting in the dark here, maybe something I ask can help the guy who can help you.)

Is it possible you can/will post a page of the instructions online, or maybe send us to a link where they live that the manufacturer has up?

I know you're not going to do this tonight but do consider putting a water filter on before it dumps over to the ice maker, not only to have better ice but also to keep the lines from getting clogged over the years -- I've got two filters coming off my cold water line before it makes it to the sink and also before the ice maker, makes a nice difference, though maybe Kansas water is better than here. Oh yeah, I did check your profile -- were you in Austin I'd have slung a tool box in the pickup and come over, we'd have figured it out, two heads better than one or whatever...
posted by dancestoblue at 7:47 PM on July 1, 2010


Here's a guide with pics.
posted by lee at 7:48 PM on July 1, 2010


Place the brass nut over the tubing. Place the plastic ferrule on the tube. Insert the brass tube support into the end of the tube. Secure the nut to the saddle valve, making sure the tube does not slide out.
posted by lee at 7:54 PM on July 1, 2010


lee has the basic procedure. Note that the plastic ferrules have an orientation. The pointy end goes towards the fitting and the flat end goes towards the nut. You may need to deburr (IE: taper) both the inside and the outside of the plastic tube to get them to slide into their respective sockets.

Be forewarned that those saddle valves have a very good chance of leaking some time in the future. Especially under a sink where they are subject to mechanical damage. A much better solution is either a shutoff tap with two outlets (if your tap is a compression type) or a compression tee tap (if you have no under sink shut off or it's soldered on).

When you run the tubing to the fridge try and bring it out of the cabinet next to the fridge as low and far back as possible. Then make a huge loop with the tubing (IE: run it pretty well the entire perimeter of the fridge well) before terminating it at the fridge. This extra slack will lay flat against the wall when the fridge is in place and makes it much easier to pull the fridge out for cleaning and servicing.

Your kit doesn't have a clamp for the fridge end of the tubing. If your fridge doesn't have a tubing clamp make sure you get one to provide a strain relief for the tubing at the fridge solenoid valve; otherwise the tubing can break off there.

Finally if your water has appreciable sediment in it (check for muck at the bottom of your toilet tank) and your fridge has chilled water make sure you install a sediment filter. Otherwise that muck ends up in the bottom of the cold plate for the water dispenser.
posted by Mitheral at 8:26 PM on July 1, 2010


The valve will leak before the plastic will. Lee is right.
posted by gjc at 8:29 PM on July 1, 2010


I know this is not what you asked, but if it's not too late, take that kit back. The saddle valves are notorious for leaking, and the plastic hoses tend to pinhole as well.

Go with a quick tee adapter, a filter and a braided hose. Make sure the hose runs through a tubing clamp attached to the fridge.

Also, previously.
posted by Marky at 8:53 PM on July 1, 2010


Thank you everyone for the advice. Lee had the procedure down, I just wasn't tightening everything down enough. However, it seems that everyone here recommends taking this thing back and getting something a bit more 'long term'. I think I will do that. THANK YOU EVERYONE.
posted by Brettus at 11:57 PM on July 1, 2010


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