India in 3 weeks
June 23, 2010 9:23 PM Subscribe
Three weeks in India. Where to go?
I have three weeks solo in July, arriving and leaving from Delhi (staying in Paharganj initially). I've never been there before, and I don't know much about the place, but there seem too many worthwhile places to go and I need help choosing. North to Amritsar/Kashmir, west to Jodhpur, east to Varanasi or south to Mumbai and Goa? There's no way to fit it all in.
Any tips on where to go, or broader advice about traveling there more generally?
I have three weeks solo in July, arriving and leaving from Delhi (staying in Paharganj initially). I've never been there before, and I don't know much about the place, but there seem too many worthwhile places to go and I need help choosing. North to Amritsar/Kashmir, west to Jodhpur, east to Varanasi or south to Mumbai and Goa? There's no way to fit it all in.
Any tips on where to go, or broader advice about traveling there more generally?
For history/culture: Jodhpur and other towns in Rajasthan (Jaipur, Jaisalmer, Udaipur). Very "touristy", but still worth visiting, especially Jaisalmer. Rajasthan is mostly desert, but if you're interested in wildlife, there are also some wildlife sanctuaries. Ranthambore is near Jaipur, and is said to have a substantial tiger population (although all I saw after two safari rides was one extremely bored looking, elderly tiger...).
Agra and the Taj Mahal are on the way from Delhi to Jaipur.
Mumbai is of course, huge and crowded. I've lived there and honestly don't think it is worth a separate trip. However, I love Goa and its beautiful beaches (I grew up there). But I haven't been there in ages, so I can't comment on how things are now.
Can't comment on Varanasi since I've never been there. Why not further south to Kerala? Again, it can be a bit touristy, but not as much as Delhi or Rajasthan. You can have a relaxing holiday in nice hotels, spend a day in a houseboat on the backwaters etc if that is your thing. It is a coastal state, so there are lots of nice beaches and great seafood. In my opinion, this region also has considerably less of the "harassment" issues that deadweightloss mentioned above.
July is monsoon season, so expect rains and flooding in many areas, especially in the West (Mumbai/Goa) and the South, and this can affect travel.
posted by prenominal at 10:39 PM on June 23, 2010
Agra and the Taj Mahal are on the way from Delhi to Jaipur.
Mumbai is of course, huge and crowded. I've lived there and honestly don't think it is worth a separate trip. However, I love Goa and its beautiful beaches (I grew up there). But I haven't been there in ages, so I can't comment on how things are now.
Can't comment on Varanasi since I've never been there. Why not further south to Kerala? Again, it can be a bit touristy, but not as much as Delhi or Rajasthan. You can have a relaxing holiday in nice hotels, spend a day in a houseboat on the backwaters etc if that is your thing. It is a coastal state, so there are lots of nice beaches and great seafood. In my opinion, this region also has considerably less of the "harassment" issues that deadweightloss mentioned above.
July is monsoon season, so expect rains and flooding in many areas, especially in the West (Mumbai/Goa) and the South, and this can affect travel.
posted by prenominal at 10:39 PM on June 23, 2010
Do not go to Mumbai/Goa in July. Monsoon rains are unpredictable and transport links could be cut off for several days (yup, really happened to me) in these areas.
Stick to the North, because East and West of Delhi will both be quite hot and humid.
Rishikesh should be good. White water rafting on the Ganges for about $30 (including overnight camping on the riverbank) is great fun.
Other places to consider: Manali, Leh/Ladakh, and Mussoorie (close to Rishikesh).
Broader advice: Be careful about what you eat and what you drink. Good food is cheap in India (by Western standards) anyway, so you should resist the temptation to save even more by eating at roadside eateries that are unhygienic. Drink bottled water (Bisleri, Aquafina, or Kinley). Rainy season is also mosquito revival season, so you'd need some protection. Negotiate every price, if you do not look South Asian and can't speak Hindi.
posted by vidur at 10:45 PM on June 23, 2010
Stick to the North, because East and West of Delhi will both be quite hot and humid.
Rishikesh should be good. White water rafting on the Ganges for about $30 (including overnight camping on the riverbank) is great fun.
Other places to consider: Manali, Leh/Ladakh, and Mussoorie (close to Rishikesh).
Broader advice: Be careful about what you eat and what you drink. Good food is cheap in India (by Western standards) anyway, so you should resist the temptation to save even more by eating at roadside eateries that are unhygienic. Drink bottled water (Bisleri, Aquafina, or Kinley). Rainy season is also mosquito revival season, so you'd need some protection. Negotiate every price, if you do not look South Asian and can't speak Hindi.
posted by vidur at 10:45 PM on June 23, 2010
Umm, Darjeeling is nice. Sorry, ain't too familiar with the north, as I haven't been there since childhood, so I'd recommend Kerala as well. Nice and laid back, with tons of nice beaches surrounded by bayou/wetlands and gorgeous fog covered mountain ranges to the east. Although places like Munnar are full of NRIs come back for summer vacation, I don't think it's known by too many westerners.
But yeah, pick one specific route and stick to it. It's a massive country with tons to see, so don't worry about hitting all the major destinations at once. I'd recommend getting a general feel for the place with your time there. If you generally have a good time, come back for a month or two in the future when you are able to for a in depth journey.
Oh, and be prepared to see jaw-dropping poverty, particularly in Delhi.
Be prepared to see jaw-dropping income disparity pretty much in any major city. Not just spread across communities and state lines like the US, but literally all together, right in your face. Things like deformed, disabled beggars seeking alms outside massive boutique stores where plump middle class women pick out gorgeous silks for saris whilst their children are entertained by a big screen and attended to by shop assistants; the latter being completely oblivious to the existence of the former. Air conditioned foreign cars next to ox carts are also common, along with all sorts of other "vehicles" that really have no business being on a main road.
As for general advice, find a native friend to accompany you or at least be able to call upon for emergencies, etc. How conspicuous looking (i.e. hair and skin colour apart from the norm) are you? Try not to dress like a typical westerner as if you are going camping (read: cargo shorts, hiking boots, massive backpack, etc.), if you plan to spend most of your time in urban areas. Pants and a non flashy shirt are fine. In fact, do wear pants. Especially if it's mosquito season.
Also, ride in an autorickshaw at least once. It's kind of like a roller coaster of sorts...except you don't have that slight consolation in your mind of being able to sue the shit out of someone if/when it all goes catastrophically wrong.
posted by Throw away your common sense and get an afro! at 11:42 PM on June 23, 2010
But yeah, pick one specific route and stick to it. It's a massive country with tons to see, so don't worry about hitting all the major destinations at once. I'd recommend getting a general feel for the place with your time there. If you generally have a good time, come back for a month or two in the future when you are able to for a in depth journey.
Oh, and be prepared to see jaw-dropping poverty, particularly in Delhi.
Be prepared to see jaw-dropping income disparity pretty much in any major city. Not just spread across communities and state lines like the US, but literally all together, right in your face. Things like deformed, disabled beggars seeking alms outside massive boutique stores where plump middle class women pick out gorgeous silks for saris whilst their children are entertained by a big screen and attended to by shop assistants; the latter being completely oblivious to the existence of the former. Air conditioned foreign cars next to ox carts are also common, along with all sorts of other "vehicles" that really have no business being on a main road.
As for general advice, find a native friend to accompany you or at least be able to call upon for emergencies, etc. How conspicuous looking (i.e. hair and skin colour apart from the norm) are you? Try not to dress like a typical westerner as if you are going camping (read: cargo shorts, hiking boots, massive backpack, etc.), if you plan to spend most of your time in urban areas. Pants and a non flashy shirt are fine. In fact, do wear pants. Especially if it's mosquito season.
Also, ride in an autorickshaw at least once. It's kind of like a roller coaster of sorts...except you don't have that slight consolation in your mind of being able to sue the shit out of someone if/when it all goes catastrophically wrong.
posted by Throw away your common sense and get an afro! at 11:42 PM on June 23, 2010
reposting from similar question:
http://ask.metafilter.com/85775/Advice-for-first-trip-to-India#1268067
i think the importantest part of the above bit of advice is to pick a small number of places (3, maybe 4 but 3 is better) and stick to just seeing them - travel in between places in india is hugely draining, not to mention time consuming, and you'll never see everything anyway. pick your top 3 spots that really speak to you, and skip the rest.
posted by messiahwannabe at 12:07 AM on June 24, 2010 [1 favorite]
http://ask.metafilter.com/85775/Advice-for-first-trip-to-India#1268067
i think the importantest part of the above bit of advice is to pick a small number of places (3, maybe 4 but 3 is better) and stick to just seeing them - travel in between places in india is hugely draining, not to mention time consuming, and you'll never see everything anyway. pick your top 3 spots that really speak to you, and skip the rest.
posted by messiahwannabe at 12:07 AM on June 24, 2010 [1 favorite]
Totally agree re: not going to Mumbai and Goa in July... the monsoons make every bad thing about the city (traffic, pollution, dirt) ten times worse. Ditto Kerala at this time of year.
Messiahwannabe is correct in that you want to choose three or four places and stick to those, as India is such a huge place it's possible to spend a lifetime here and still not properly see all of it.
As to where to go... that depends on your interests. Like architecture? Delhi has some lovely buildings of both Mughal and British vintage. For temples, Tamil Nadu is great. Get the Lonely Planet guide to India, see what most piques your interest, and go from there.
On preview, what vidur said. Especially WRT to roadside eateries. It's called Delhi belly for a reason.
posted by Tamanna at 12:26 AM on June 24, 2010 [1 favorite]
Messiahwannabe is correct in that you want to choose three or four places and stick to those, as India is such a huge place it's possible to spend a lifetime here and still not properly see all of it.
As to where to go... that depends on your interests. Like architecture? Delhi has some lovely buildings of both Mughal and British vintage. For temples, Tamil Nadu is great. Get the Lonely Planet guide to India, see what most piques your interest, and go from there.
On preview, what vidur said. Especially WRT to roadside eateries. It's called Delhi belly for a reason.
posted by Tamanna at 12:26 AM on June 24, 2010 [1 favorite]
I've been four times for a total of about six months and love it.
The best single holiday I had went:
Fly into Madras (few people call it Chennai) down the coast to Rameshwaram (a strange temple town) via Ponicherry and Auroville in a combination of train and taxi - some of the best food in the world and not very touristy. Rameshwaram is really cool too.
Then across to Madhurai for temples and up to Kodaikanal, a beautiful cool hill station (and the only one founded by Americans) before heading down to Kerela for beaches. You can fly out of Cochin or or Trivandrum - Emirates does split tickets for the same price as normal returns.
Of course this is just a small part of the country, but it's so big you should stick to one part. I've also loved Darjeeling, Ladakh, the West coast area and all sorts of other places. My least favourite part is the Delhi/Agra/Jaipur golden triangle, but you may feel you have to see the Taj...
Many more details here: travelogues and pics Feel free to email me if you want - details on my homepage.
posted by rhymer at 12:34 AM on June 24, 2010
The best single holiday I had went:
Fly into Madras (few people call it Chennai) down the coast to Rameshwaram (a strange temple town) via Ponicherry and Auroville in a combination of train and taxi - some of the best food in the world and not very touristy. Rameshwaram is really cool too.
Then across to Madhurai for temples and up to Kodaikanal, a beautiful cool hill station (and the only one founded by Americans) before heading down to Kerela for beaches. You can fly out of Cochin or or Trivandrum - Emirates does split tickets for the same price as normal returns.
Of course this is just a small part of the country, but it's so big you should stick to one part. I've also loved Darjeeling, Ladakh, the West coast area and all sorts of other places. My least favourite part is the Delhi/Agra/Jaipur golden triangle, but you may feel you have to see the Taj...
Many more details here: travelogues and pics Feel free to email me if you want - details on my homepage.
posted by rhymer at 12:34 AM on June 24, 2010
July is very hot in Delhi, Agra, Rajasthan. It's very rainy in Mumbai and Goa. If you're affected by weather and not used to desert heat and tropical monsoons, don't let your desire to see a place override the need to be in a good frame of mind while seeing it.
I'm assuming you have a Lonely Planet guide or something... Narrow things down by weather, then further narrow it down by area / your personal interest, and maybe then post a new question here with a list of places that fit your criteria. Then people can help you edit it, make a plan, suggest how long to stay where (roughly) etc.
In any case feel free to me-mail me anytime with specific questions.
posted by mondaygreens at 12:54 AM on June 24, 2010
I'm assuming you have a Lonely Planet guide or something... Narrow things down by weather, then further narrow it down by area / your personal interest, and maybe then post a new question here with a list of places that fit your criteria. Then people can help you edit it, make a plan, suggest how long to stay where (roughly) etc.
In any case feel free to me-mail me anytime with specific questions.
posted by mondaygreens at 12:54 AM on June 24, 2010
Response by poster: I know that it is going to be hot as hell in Delhi, and that Paharganj is like the dirtiest part of the city, so I'm bracing myself. I've traveled around China, Philippines and Malaysia but as far as I've heard India is a whole different ball-game in terms of chaos. I'm quite conspicuously white.
A couple more questions:
it's summer and monsoon season - should I get malaria shots while I'm there (dont really have time to get them before I go)
what's the tipping etiquette like?
how easy is it to get a sim card that I can stick in my phone and call internationally?
I remember when I applied for it recently it asked if I was going to be making side trips to neighbouring countries and that I'd need to submit a detailed itinerary (which I didn't because I was in a hurry), so does my normal tourist visa prevent me from popping across the Pakistan border for a bit?
posted by moorooka at 1:22 AM on June 24, 2010
A couple more questions:
it's summer and monsoon season - should I get malaria shots while I'm there (dont really have time to get them before I go)
what's the tipping etiquette like?
how easy is it to get a sim card that I can stick in my phone and call internationally?
I remember when I applied for it recently it asked if I was going to be making side trips to neighbouring countries and that I'd need to submit a detailed itinerary (which I didn't because I was in a hurry), so does my normal tourist visa prevent me from popping across the Pakistan border for a bit?
posted by moorooka at 1:22 AM on June 24, 2010
Yes, get malaria shots, and also dengue shots to be safer. The tipping etiquette depends on, um, how white and well-off (as opposed to hippie-ish) you look. I've spent a long time living in touristy places in India, and in my experience the waiters usually treat the white, non-hippiesque customers best, but that's because they count on them for the biggest tips.
So - there's no real etiquette but more like the Waiter's Expectations (based mostly on their observed Racial and Cultural Tipping Patterns), which guides how well they serve you. You're not required to tip them after good service and nobody will judge you if you don't, but in general it's nice to tip what you think they deserve and what you can spare as a tip.
It's ridiculously easy to get a SIM card as an Indian, put some money in it and call wherever you want. AFAIR (from traveling with some foreigners), it's not hard for foreigners if they're willing to go to less respectable places which sell them and maybe pay a little bit extra. Never traveled with anyone who wasn't (male), so ... I don't know for sure about this. Still, your chances are as good as they get.
It's also good that you're preparing for Delhi to be dirty and poor, because a lot of that stuff has been cleared away/hidden for the damn Commonwealth Games - so you can enjoy the surprise of a cleaner city (and a relatively cleaner Paharganj) but also be wary of it.
posted by mondaygreens at 2:01 AM on June 24, 2010
So - there's no real etiquette but more like the Waiter's Expectations (based mostly on their observed Racial and Cultural Tipping Patterns), which guides how well they serve you. You're not required to tip them after good service and nobody will judge you if you don't, but in general it's nice to tip what you think they deserve and what you can spare as a tip.
It's ridiculously easy to get a SIM card as an Indian, put some money in it and call wherever you want. AFAIR (from traveling with some foreigners), it's not hard for foreigners if they're willing to go to less respectable places which sell them and maybe pay a little bit extra. Never traveled with anyone who wasn't (male), so ... I don't know for sure about this. Still, your chances are as good as they get.
It's also good that you're preparing for Delhi to be dirty and poor, because a lot of that stuff has been cleared away/hidden for the damn Commonwealth Games - so you can enjoy the surprise of a cleaner city (and a relatively cleaner Paharganj) but also be wary of it.
posted by mondaygreens at 2:01 AM on June 24, 2010
H'm there is no approved preventative vaccine for dengue fever - so never mind that. It's not a thing anyway. (Just every year in the monsoons there's a handful of bad cases, so I threw that in there unthinkingly. Sorry.)
posted by mondaygreens at 2:28 AM on June 24, 2010
posted by mondaygreens at 2:28 AM on June 24, 2010
There aren't malaria shots, as far as I know, but I'd imagine you'd be able to get most of the prophylaxis pills there (except maybe Malarone) without too much trouble. Consider topping off on the standard developing world vaccinations (like Hep A and typhoid) first -- CDC also recommends the polio (!) booster. As it happened, the failed monsoon last year was about as good for mosquitoes as it was for farmers.
I went last year in August and entered through Delhi. I took the train to Agra and spent the rest of my time in Rajasthan, which is plenty hot and touristy but full of amazing sights. I, too, had traveled solo (and white) in East Asia and felt India to be a whole new game in terms of hassle, so try not to let that get at you. Smaller towns are better for this -- I really enjoyed a few days in Bundi, for instance. An exception to this was Pushkar, which was not so much a hassle as depressing -- the central lake around which the town is built had turned into a dried out barely muddy trash pit.
Your normal visa is probably multi-entry -- even so, you won't be allowed to do quick side trips without special permission under this past December's rule change, which requires 2 months between entries -- you won't be held to any submitted itinerary but you probably won't be let in again sooner unless you've obtained the permit.
posted by deeaytch at 3:42 AM on June 24, 2010
I went last year in August and entered through Delhi. I took the train to Agra and spent the rest of my time in Rajasthan, which is plenty hot and touristy but full of amazing sights. I, too, had traveled solo (and white) in East Asia and felt India to be a whole new game in terms of hassle, so try not to let that get at you. Smaller towns are better for this -- I really enjoyed a few days in Bundi, for instance. An exception to this was Pushkar, which was not so much a hassle as depressing -- the central lake around which the town is built had turned into a dried out barely muddy trash pit.
Your normal visa is probably multi-entry -- even so, you won't be allowed to do quick side trips without special permission under this past December's rule change, which requires 2 months between entries -- you won't be held to any submitted itinerary but you probably won't be let in again sooner unless you've obtained the permit.
posted by deeaytch at 3:42 AM on June 24, 2010
I've spent 3 months travelling India, but haven't been to Delhi, Agra or Rajasthan.
When I was up that way I visited Varanasi and Khajuraho, which were both amazing (though Varanasi is quite intense; only place I've ever visited where it's a hassle to avoid buying drugs - "it's against my religion" seemed to work pretty well). [Khajuraho is an amazing Hindu temple complex, quite a long way from anywhere. Not a lot to do there other than explore temples and hang out, but definitely worth seeing]
So Delhi-Agra-Varanasi-Khajuraho might be a good way to spend three weeks.
My other thought would be down the south-west of India: Mumbai-Goa-Hampi-Kerala. But I was there in January, I guess July is not the best time to visit those areas.
posted by Infinite Jest at 5:06 AM on June 24, 2010
When I was up that way I visited Varanasi and Khajuraho, which were both amazing (though Varanasi is quite intense; only place I've ever visited where it's a hassle to avoid buying drugs - "it's against my religion" seemed to work pretty well). [Khajuraho is an amazing Hindu temple complex, quite a long way from anywhere. Not a lot to do there other than explore temples and hang out, but definitely worth seeing]
So Delhi-Agra-Varanasi-Khajuraho might be a good way to spend three weeks.
My other thought would be down the south-west of India: Mumbai-Goa-Hampi-Kerala. But I was there in January, I guess July is not the best time to visit those areas.
posted by Infinite Jest at 5:06 AM on June 24, 2010
Regarding tipping etiquette, I wouldn't pay as much as 20 % as in the US, since service is included as part of the bill but I'd say 10 % - 12 % is the norm at anything above a roadside eatery.
posted by peacheater at 6:37 AM on June 24, 2010
posted by peacheater at 6:37 AM on June 24, 2010
Delhi in July? mad dogs and englishmen :)
Me, I'd suggest going south - Kerala, Kovalam, even Chennai just to get out to Mahabalipuram (also known as Mamallapuram) - wander through the south, the weather isn't as bad as the central north.
posted by infini at 7:47 AM on June 24, 2010
Me, I'd suggest going south - Kerala, Kovalam, even Chennai just to get out to Mahabalipuram (also known as Mamallapuram) - wander through the south, the weather isn't as bad as the central north.
posted by infini at 7:47 AM on June 24, 2010
Pushkar is much nicer in November especially when the grand camel fair is on.
posted by infini at 7:48 AM on June 24, 2010
posted by infini at 7:48 AM on June 24, 2010
I knew a guy who did some contract work in Mumbai and his description of the place agrees with what folks seem to be saying in this thread: don't go there. I don't know about the rest of India but after what my friend described to me I don't intend to visit Mumbai anytime soon.
posted by The Winsome Parker Lewis at 7:54 AM on June 24, 2010
posted by The Winsome Parker Lewis at 7:54 AM on June 24, 2010
Tipping: Depends on how well-off you look. For small restaurants etc. just give Rs. 5 or 10. For fancier places, give Rs. 10 or 20. For upscale restaurants inside hotels etc., give 10%.
Visa: Do not make side trips from India if you want to re-enter India before 2 months. Can't emphasize this enough. Regardless of what your visa officer says, just don't do this. Indian immigration people will harass you if you do this, regardless of what it says on your visa.
SIM card: You can get one at the Delhi airport itself. Airtel has good coverage. They'll want a copy of your passport (they have copy machines at the airport store). They'll also want to know where you are staying - so some kind of proof of booking at a Paharganj hotel would be required. After the David Coleman Headly scare, white people are no longer immune from suspicion of terrorism in India, so tell your hotel that Airtel might call you check that you are staying there. Usually, the phone would get activated only after that verification call.
Malaria: Don't really know about shots, but you should get (or ask the hotel to put) a Mortein or Good Knight mosquito repellent in your room. Wash your feet well before going to bed, as mosquitoes seem to love smelly feet.
posted by vidur at 4:58 PM on June 24, 2010
Visa: Do not make side trips from India if you want to re-enter India before 2 months. Can't emphasize this enough. Regardless of what your visa officer says, just don't do this. Indian immigration people will harass you if you do this, regardless of what it says on your visa.
SIM card: You can get one at the Delhi airport itself. Airtel has good coverage. They'll want a copy of your passport (they have copy machines at the airport store). They'll also want to know where you are staying - so some kind of proof of booking at a Paharganj hotel would be required. After the David Coleman Headly scare, white people are no longer immune from suspicion of terrorism in India, so tell your hotel that Airtel might call you check that you are staying there. Usually, the phone would get activated only after that verification call.
Malaria: Don't really know about shots, but you should get (or ask the hotel to put) a Mortein or Good Knight mosquito repellent in your room. Wash your feet well before going to bed, as mosquitoes seem to love smelly feet.
posted by vidur at 4:58 PM on June 24, 2010
You should visit a travel clinic (any big city in the US will have one) to get malaria prophylactic pills. You are supposed to start taking them 3 weeks before you leave. I also brought from the US and wore constantly the strongest insect repellent I could find, and so I don't think I got bitten even once. This was another thing I liked about Leh, it's too high up for mosquitoes. I do not think you will be able to find malaria pills easily in India. Indeed, one thing I was told by the travel clinic was that if I have a medical emergency in India (e.g. burst appendix) I should go to Hong Kong or Dubai, the two closest places with medical care up to modern standards. Certainly don't count on being able to buy any item (i.e. Immodium) in India.
I used my normal phone with my US sim card while in India. Yes, calls cost $3/minute, but for the few minutes of talking I did while there, it was less hassle than getting an Indian sim. A friend got both an Indian sim and an Indian phone with prepaid minutes for like $30, but he had some trouble getting it to work outside of the Delhi area.
I tipped about 10% at restaurants, and gave bellhops 5 or 10 rupees.
posted by deadweightloss at 6:02 PM on June 24, 2010
I used my normal phone with my US sim card while in India. Yes, calls cost $3/minute, but for the few minutes of talking I did while there, it was less hassle than getting an Indian sim. A friend got both an Indian sim and an Indian phone with prepaid minutes for like $30, but he had some trouble getting it to work outside of the Delhi area.
I tipped about 10% at restaurants, and gave bellhops 5 or 10 rupees.
posted by deadweightloss at 6:02 PM on June 24, 2010
Go south, to Kerala, it's a tropical paradise (lush palms, beaches, attractive people) and has one of the highest literacy rates of any Indian state.
(In July there will be rain, and lots of it; learn to enjoy it.)
posted by phliar at 6:32 PM on June 24, 2010
(In July there will be rain, and lots of it; learn to enjoy it.)
posted by phliar at 6:32 PM on June 24, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
Hopefully you are used to solo travel in third-world countries; it is not always easy in India. Especially in cities, many of the people you interact with will be trying to steal/scam money from you. You will be stared at constantly. You will wonder with each meal whether you are about to get violently ill, and you probably will at some point. I did much better in smaller cities (Manali, Leh, and Bagar) than in Delhi. You should hire a driver for any intra-city travel; you will get harassed constantly if you try to walk anywhere in a big city yourself, and it will be 300 degrees. For inter-city travel, hire a driver or take the train. Get the ultra-first class ticket, and the train is actually quite nice, and still very cheap by Western standards. I learned a lot looking out the window of my train my Delhi to Jaipur. You can certainly get cheap hotel rooms, but they will be utter shitholes. There are very nice hotels in most big cities, but they are as expensive as in the US. Even if you are on a strict budget, you'll probably be tempted to pay for one some night to get a break from India; were your budget to increase, hotels would be the first place I would put extra money.
Oh, and be prepared to see jaw-dropping poverty, particularly in Delhi.
posted by deadweightloss at 9:59 PM on June 23, 2010 [3 favorites]