Out with the cold, in with the waves.
May 23, 2010 5:58 AM Subscribe
What are the best beach havens in Mexico, Central and South America with a relaxed, laid-back vibe and low tourist development?
As one of several travel options for next winter, I'm looking for a locale in Mexico, Central or South America where I can spend a few weeks near a beach, chilling and waiting for the snows to thaw.
Pros:
-Down-to-earth, friendly, or moderately new agey atmosphere.
-Uncrowded beach with a swimmable ocean.
-Small town with a wide selection of local restaurants.
-Possibility of long-term rentals in a bungalow.
-Internet access.
Cons:
-Large, concrete resort hotels (blech!)
-Heavy traffic.
-Loud, nightclubby atmosphere.
-Shopper-oriented, touristy vibe.
I'm open to possibilities anywhere in Mexico, Central or South America. Where in these regions are the best down-to-earth beaches?
As one of several travel options for next winter, I'm looking for a locale in Mexico, Central or South America where I can spend a few weeks near a beach, chilling and waiting for the snows to thaw.
Pros:
-Down-to-earth, friendly, or moderately new agey atmosphere.
-Uncrowded beach with a swimmable ocean.
-Small town with a wide selection of local restaurants.
-Possibility of long-term rentals in a bungalow.
-Internet access.
Cons:
-Large, concrete resort hotels (blech!)
-Heavy traffic.
-Loud, nightclubby atmosphere.
-Shopper-oriented, touristy vibe.
I'm open to possibilities anywhere in Mexico, Central or South America. Where in these regions are the best down-to-earth beaches?
Much of Cozumel fits into your blech! category, but when I was there (9 years ago), the eastern side of the island was dramatically less developed, with very laid-back and uncrowded beaches and a smattering of widely-spaced restaurants. On the mainland-facing (western) side of the island are the town, the cruise ships, the concrete resorts and the horrific touristy shopping vibe. Even town, however, has some pleasant spots if you get far enough from the ships.
I don't think it's a perfect solution for you, but beach+restaurants+rentals, without a touristy vibe, sounds like a difficult nail to hit dead on.
posted by jon1270 at 6:19 AM on May 23, 2010
I don't think it's a perfect solution for you, but beach+restaurants+rentals, without a touristy vibe, sounds like a difficult nail to hit dead on.
posted by jon1270 at 6:19 AM on May 23, 2010
I think you should consider Zihuatanejo, near Ixtapa. The place is crazy on the weekends when the cruise ships put in, but there's plenty of room to get away from the madness and during the week, it's nice and quiet. As a bonus, it's got your New Agey vibe. Fly directly from Houston to Ixtapa Airport (ZIH), about a 20 minute cab ride into town. We went last October for a wedding and had a great time. Plenty of places on VRBO too.
posted by jquinby at 6:55 AM on May 23, 2010
posted by jquinby at 6:55 AM on May 23, 2010
Seconding k8t. I went to Tulum last week on AskMe's recommendations and I was not at all disappointed.
posted by mrsshotglass at 6:57 AM on May 23, 2010
posted by mrsshotglass at 6:57 AM on May 23, 2010
jquinby - Please tell me you searched the beach for a pair of older gentlemen restoring a boat...
posted by mrsshotglass at 6:59 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
posted by mrsshotglass at 6:59 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
mrsshotglass - sadly, that scene was actually filmed in the VI. It is funny, though - everyone we've told about the place has either gone "You went where?" or "Oh yeah. Shawshank."
posted by jquinby at 7:02 AM on May 23, 2010
posted by jquinby at 7:02 AM on May 23, 2010
Another vote for Tulum. I was there two weeks ago. Stayed at Hotel Nueva Vida, which was fantastic. If you go, pick a hotel on the south end of the beach. The beaches get prettier as you go further south.
posted by Evangeline at 7:19 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
posted by Evangeline at 7:19 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
Seconding Zihuatanejo.
posted by matildaben at 7:42 AM on May 23, 2010
posted by matildaben at 7:42 AM on May 23, 2010
My parents love Zihuatanejo. I've spent some very pleasant time in La Paz, on the Baja peninsula. There is some great sea kayaking around that area.
posted by craven_morhead at 7:52 AM on May 23, 2010
posted by craven_morhead at 7:52 AM on May 23, 2010
I recently went to Isla Mujeres and loved it. It's a tiny island a 20 min ferry ride from Cancun. The ocean is amazing shades of turquoise and one side of the island is just rocky cliffs and the sea. The locals are really friendly and laid back, and there were few American tourists when I went - mostly European. There's barely a night life (everyone just goes to Cancun), tons of good cheap restaurants (me mail me for recommendations), all the locals ride scooters, and I think I only saw one modern concrete hotel. The beaches were never crowded either. There's not much to do on the island except eat, read a book, sleep and drink, which I loved, but it's close enough to take day trips to Tulum and Coba to see Mayan ruins.
posted by cm young at 8:03 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
posted by cm young at 8:03 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
If you're going to the Cancun area, I would say go straight to Puerto Morales, which I discovered from another askme here. I used to go to Tulum years ago, and while it's nice, the development there has taken away a lot of the charm, IMHO.
I guess it's all just a matter of opinion, and of how developed you think is too developed...I've also been to Isla Mujeres and Cozumel, and find both of them cater a bit too much to tourists for what I'm looking for. However, I did love Isla Holbox, north of Cancun.
My new favorite though is Puerto Morales, a 15 minute cab ride from Cancun Airport. A car is not necessary at all if you go there, because it is a small fishing village right on the beach and everything in town is just a few minutes walk. If you want to go to any destinations in the area, there are a few agencies that book excursion buses to them off the main zocalo, or your hotel can do this for you.
There are at least a dozen or so restaurants, most of them good to very good, and there are a few vegetarian places as well. Since it is a fishing village, there are a lot of excellent seafood options. Most restaurants are on the casual side, with one or two more upscale. If you like fish tacos (for less than $1.00, still) and ceviches, you will be in heaven. There are a few expat italian places, and an argentinian grill place that is great as well.
The whole atmosphere of the town is very laid back, and though still nodding to tourists, it is still for the most part holding on to it's small village feel.
The beach is lovely, and swimming is great, but don't expect the larger waves that you would get further south in Tulum, there is a reef offshore. There are excellent snorkeling holes you can swim off the beach to, as well as fishing excursions, kiteboarding, scuba classes, etc. The beach was pretty empty the times I went, but filled up more on Sundays, when local Mexican families take their breaks and spend the day picnicing there.
the town has a hint of older hippie feel to it, but you can still find everything you need there, as far as forgotten supplies, etc. The is a little vegetarian cafe right on the beach that has free wifi, as do most of the hotels (at least in their lobbies).
There are some all in one resorts up north of the village, but they are on a different main road, and are quite a bit away, and don't really impact the town much at all. Mostly you will see the condos of the canadian snowbirds on the north end of town, the more traditional single story homes in all the other parts of the village, and then the small shops and restaurants immediately surrounding the town square.
I went in January, again in February, and would have gone again in March if my work hadn't eaten me alive. I can't wait to go back and do absolutely nothing but eat, lay on the beach and maybe snorkel.
I just went back and reread your pros and cons, Puerto Morales has all of the pros, and non of the cons.
posted by newpotato at 9:16 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
I guess it's all just a matter of opinion, and of how developed you think is too developed...I've also been to Isla Mujeres and Cozumel, and find both of them cater a bit too much to tourists for what I'm looking for. However, I did love Isla Holbox, north of Cancun.
My new favorite though is Puerto Morales, a 15 minute cab ride from Cancun Airport. A car is not necessary at all if you go there, because it is a small fishing village right on the beach and everything in town is just a few minutes walk. If you want to go to any destinations in the area, there are a few agencies that book excursion buses to them off the main zocalo, or your hotel can do this for you.
There are at least a dozen or so restaurants, most of them good to very good, and there are a few vegetarian places as well. Since it is a fishing village, there are a lot of excellent seafood options. Most restaurants are on the casual side, with one or two more upscale. If you like fish tacos (for less than $1.00, still) and ceviches, you will be in heaven. There are a few expat italian places, and an argentinian grill place that is great as well.
The whole atmosphere of the town is very laid back, and though still nodding to tourists, it is still for the most part holding on to it's small village feel.
The beach is lovely, and swimming is great, but don't expect the larger waves that you would get further south in Tulum, there is a reef offshore. There are excellent snorkeling holes you can swim off the beach to, as well as fishing excursions, kiteboarding, scuba classes, etc. The beach was pretty empty the times I went, but filled up more on Sundays, when local Mexican families take their breaks and spend the day picnicing there.
the town has a hint of older hippie feel to it, but you can still find everything you need there, as far as forgotten supplies, etc. The is a little vegetarian cafe right on the beach that has free wifi, as do most of the hotels (at least in their lobbies).
There are some all in one resorts up north of the village, but they are on a different main road, and are quite a bit away, and don't really impact the town much at all. Mostly you will see the condos of the canadian snowbirds on the north end of town, the more traditional single story homes in all the other parts of the village, and then the small shops and restaurants immediately surrounding the town square.
I went in January, again in February, and would have gone again in March if my work hadn't eaten me alive. I can't wait to go back and do absolutely nothing but eat, lay on the beach and maybe snorkel.
I just went back and reread your pros and cons, Puerto Morales has all of the pros, and non of the cons.
posted by newpotato at 9:16 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
Caye Caulker in Belize meets most of the requirements. Very laid back, no cars, no resorts. Have to take a boat there which keeps the numbers down. The water is great and you can swim almost anywhere, but there is only one small beach.
posted by smackfu at 9:17 AM on May 23, 2010
posted by smackfu at 9:17 AM on May 23, 2010
Maruata, Michoacan; Tulum, Quintana Roo; Puerto Econdido, Oaxaca; Zihuatanejo, Guerrero
posted by freddymetz at 9:34 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
posted by freddymetz at 9:34 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
La Manzanilla, Jalisco meets all your requirements. It has a beautiful, safe beach, a reasonable selection of restaurants, an artsy atmosphere plus crocodillos. And if you get bored, Melaque and Barra de Navidad are easily accessible.
posted by timeistight at 10:02 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
posted by timeistight at 10:02 AM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
Loreto, Baja California, or Mulege, which is up the road from Loreto. La Paz is a bigger town but is a real Mexican town, not tourist blech. We've done some great diving in La Paz, and great snorkeling in Loreto, if you enjoy that kind of thing. (I think the diving is pretty good in Loreto too but I was pregnant at the time, so we snorkeled.)
Todos Santos in Baja meets many of your requirements, but the beach is more surfing-oriented than swimmable. Fantastic restaurants, laid back new agey atmosphere (kind of a tiny version of Taos or what Santa Fe was like in the 70's) and internet/long-term rentals. Todos Santos is a little further off the beaten path to get to, whereas Loreto has an airport and direct flights from Los Angeles.
posted by ambrosia at 10:08 AM on May 23, 2010
Todos Santos in Baja meets many of your requirements, but the beach is more surfing-oriented than swimmable. Fantastic restaurants, laid back new agey atmosphere (kind of a tiny version of Taos or what Santa Fe was like in the 70's) and internet/long-term rentals. Todos Santos is a little further off the beaten path to get to, whereas Loreto has an airport and direct flights from Los Angeles.
posted by ambrosia at 10:08 AM on May 23, 2010
For what its worth my Mexican friend always tells me the beaches in Venezuela are the nicest hes every seen
I hope to see one day :-)
posted by SatansCabanaboy at 10:50 AM on May 23, 2010
I hope to see one day :-)
posted by SatansCabanaboy at 10:50 AM on May 23, 2010
If you're going from the west, I highly recommend Sayulita. It's an easy flight into Puerto Vallarta, then a 45 min. Taxi ride north. No highrise hotels, plenty of nice houses to rent, great beach, surfing, beachside restaurants... We've gone three years in a row - never gotten bored, never rented a car. The town is small enough that you can stay in contact with your group with walkie talkies (a strategy I highly recommend) while some people hang at the beach, others get massages, others wander around town or hang out on the town square. I want to be there right now!
posted by ms_rasclark at 3:13 PM on May 23, 2010
posted by ms_rasclark at 3:13 PM on May 23, 2010
Troncones, Mexico is what you're looking for. It's about 30 minutes drive north of Zihuatenejo/Ixtapa, but is far sleepier. These photos give you a good idea of what the beach looks like; this is the largest hotel on the beach.
The food is mostly day catch open air seafood restaurants, several of which are awesome. The town is tiny, but very tourist-friendly, with a thriving ex-pat population. If you go, I highly recommend staying in one of the many B&Bs, nearly all of which are amazing and beautiful ocean-front homes.
posted by centerweight at 7:21 PM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
The food is mostly day catch open air seafood restaurants, several of which are awesome. The town is tiny, but very tourist-friendly, with a thriving ex-pat population. If you go, I highly recommend staying in one of the many B&Bs, nearly all of which are amazing and beautiful ocean-front homes.
posted by centerweight at 7:21 PM on May 23, 2010 [1 favorite]
Several people mentioned Tulum - now I'm curious. We really like renting a whole house to accommodate two families of 4 adults, 4 kids. There are tons of places like that in Sayulita (which I mentioned in my earlier post.) Does Tulum have that kind of accommodation? We'd love to explore someplace new and have free tickets to anyplace AeroMexico flies after getting bumped from our flight home on our last trip.
posted by ms_rasclark at 7:27 PM on May 23, 2010
posted by ms_rasclark at 7:27 PM on May 23, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by k8t at 6:08 AM on May 23, 2010