Windowlicker
April 5, 2010 12:39 PM Subscribe
How to replace the rear passenger window on a 2001 Hyundia Elantra GLS...
Hey, I just got back from a scrapyard and was able to remove the rear right-side window [not vent] of a 2001 Hyundai Elantra, and now I need to put it in my car. I removed it in a rather inelegant manner and I would prefer if the installation went a bit more smooth. Anyone know of a website with instructions on how to install the window, or could anyone provide instructions here?
Hey, I just got back from a scrapyard and was able to remove the rear right-side window [not vent] of a 2001 Hyundai Elantra, and now I need to put it in my car. I removed it in a rather inelegant manner and I would prefer if the installation went a bit more smooth. Anyone know of a website with instructions on how to install the window, or could anyone provide instructions here?
I would presume you need to completely remove the interior door panel (people often post guides on how to do this with relation to putting in sound deadening material).
See here. Note that this is for the front door, the concept is similar. Find all the fasteners that hold the door panel on, particularly ones behind plastic covers.
The tricky part is sliding the window in, aligning it with the lever that raises and lowers it. Assuming the previous window broke, you'd also want to vacuum out any remaining glass in the door as well with a shop vac.
posted by liquoredonlife at 12:49 PM on April 5, 2010
See here. Note that this is for the front door, the concept is similar. Find all the fasteners that hold the door panel on, particularly ones behind plastic covers.
The tricky part is sliding the window in, aligning it with the lever that raises and lowers it. Assuming the previous window broke, you'd also want to vacuum out any remaining glass in the door as well with a shop vac.
posted by liquoredonlife at 12:49 PM on April 5, 2010
Or buying it used for $4.50 off an Amazon seller if you can wait that long.
posted by wcfields at 12:49 PM on April 5, 2010
posted by wcfields at 12:49 PM on April 5, 2010
Best answer: You probably don't need a manual to replace this window. I replace window glass and regulators pretty routinely without referring to the service manual. The premise is that they're basically all the same. Personally, I've never had the occasion to replace the window glass on a 2001 Elantra, but if it showed up in my service bay, here's what I'd do.
I'd pick up a couple phillips head screw drivers (a #1 and a #2), a trim removing tool or small plastic pryer, a flashlight, a 10mm socket, an 8mm socket, an extension, and a 1/4in drive ratchet.
I'd start by checking out the door panel. Around the (big) handle (the one you pull to shut the door from the inside) and armrest should be a couple small round or oval covers that conceal the large phillips head screws that hold the door skin to the metal part of the door. Pop those panels off and remove the large phillips screws. Be aware, some fasteners are installed vertically and are hiding underneath some trim in whatever storage compartment is in the armrest. Remove your change, tissues, and gum wrappers to check for fasteners in that compartment. Most doors have at least two large fasteners around the large handle
There's also usually a fastener hiding behind the interior door latch handle (small handle you pull to open the door from the inside).
The handle and big lock button will have plastic trim surrounding it. Either the fastener is hiding behind that trim or there's another little round screw cover hiding behind the door handle. Remove that trim and fastener.
Give a quick check along the bottom of the door panel for additional fasteners of the 8mm or phillips variety. If the speaker cover can be removed and is not part of the door, remove the speaker cover and all fasteners your find behind there. Disconnect the speaker harness and put it aside.
Once you've removed all threaded fasteners, it's time to do battle with the plastic retaining clips. Get your trim tool between the door skin and the metal part of the door and pry it away enough to get a good grip on the door skin. Then PULL. This technique is know, in the industry, as Grip and Rip. The plastic clips will not be happy about coming out of the door and they will resist you. It will sound bad and be difficult, but forcefully pull the door skin off the door. Once the clips are free, you'll have to pull upward slightly since the top of the door skin sort of fits into a groove along the base of the passenger window/top of door.
The door skin will now be free. CAREFULLY remove the actuator cable that connects the door latch to the handle. There's usually some plastic retainer or notch that holds the cable to the latch. EXAMINE THIS MECHANISM CAREFULLY and then determine how to remove the cable. You may have to manipulate the door latch handle in order to optimize this removal. Then, disconnect any electrical harnesses that are restricting the removal of the door skin. Most of these connectors have a little release that's kind of a pain. You'll have to squeeze and pull just right to remove the connectors. These connectors will all be different from each other so don't worry about getting them mixed up since they're all slightly different shapes.
Then, there'll be a piece of plastic that covers up the rest of the door guts. There'll be a bead of glue that holds that plastic to the door. Peel the plastic back until you can see the window motor and regulator. Reconnect the window switch to its harness and operate the window motor until the regulator is in a position that you can access the fasteners that hold the glass to the regulator. Most Asian cars just have two 10mm bolts that connect plastic tabs mounted to the bottom of the glass to the regulator assembly. Confirm this in advance by examining the glass you got from the salvage yard. Remove these 10mm bolts and then, as I'm sure your original window is smashed (why else would you replace it?), vacuum the broken glass out of the door cavity.
The new glass is usually most easily installed by inserting it at sort of a diagonal, with the forward most point of the glass going down into the door first. Since the door frame is sort of a weird semi parallelogram, the glass won't drop right into the track. You'll sort of have to put it in sideways or diagonally, nose first, then the back corner into the track and then sort of stand it up correctly feeding it into the track as you right the glass. It's hard to describe, but it'll make perfect sense while you're doing it. Make sure that you install it into the tracks as you finesse the glass into the door. At this point, a GOOD FRIEND will help you by holding the glass as you reach into the door and line up the regulator with the tabs at the bottom of the glass so you can reattach it. Tighten up the bolts and then operate the window a few times to confirm your repair before you put the whole door back together. It should be smooth and quiet.
The glue that holds the plastic sheet on will still be sticky, so just push that plastic back into place, making sure that you don't trap your essential wiring behind it.
As far as the door panel goes, installation is reverse of removal. Just make sure that you line up all of your plastic retaining clips before you reinstall the door panel. If they're lined up correctly, they'll fit back nicely by whacking the door with the base of your palm.
Also, don't forget to reattach the door latch actuator cable, otherwise you'll have to take the whole thing back apart when you realize your passengers can't get out of the car.
You can totally do this. Right now, while it's still light out.
If you get stuck, just snap a picture and email me and I'll help you out. Good luck and get back to us with fun pictures and a great story about how easy this process turned out to be!
posted by Jon-o at 3:12 PM on April 5, 2010 [1 favorite]
I'd pick up a couple phillips head screw drivers (a #1 and a #2), a trim removing tool or small plastic pryer, a flashlight, a 10mm socket, an 8mm socket, an extension, and a 1/4in drive ratchet.
I'd start by checking out the door panel. Around the (big) handle (the one you pull to shut the door from the inside) and armrest should be a couple small round or oval covers that conceal the large phillips head screws that hold the door skin to the metal part of the door. Pop those panels off and remove the large phillips screws. Be aware, some fasteners are installed vertically and are hiding underneath some trim in whatever storage compartment is in the armrest. Remove your change, tissues, and gum wrappers to check for fasteners in that compartment. Most doors have at least two large fasteners around the large handle
There's also usually a fastener hiding behind the interior door latch handle (small handle you pull to open the door from the inside).
The handle and big lock button will have plastic trim surrounding it. Either the fastener is hiding behind that trim or there's another little round screw cover hiding behind the door handle. Remove that trim and fastener.
Give a quick check along the bottom of the door panel for additional fasteners of the 8mm or phillips variety. If the speaker cover can be removed and is not part of the door, remove the speaker cover and all fasteners your find behind there. Disconnect the speaker harness and put it aside.
Once you've removed all threaded fasteners, it's time to do battle with the plastic retaining clips. Get your trim tool between the door skin and the metal part of the door and pry it away enough to get a good grip on the door skin. Then PULL. This technique is know, in the industry, as Grip and Rip. The plastic clips will not be happy about coming out of the door and they will resist you. It will sound bad and be difficult, but forcefully pull the door skin off the door. Once the clips are free, you'll have to pull upward slightly since the top of the door skin sort of fits into a groove along the base of the passenger window/top of door.
The door skin will now be free. CAREFULLY remove the actuator cable that connects the door latch to the handle. There's usually some plastic retainer or notch that holds the cable to the latch. EXAMINE THIS MECHANISM CAREFULLY and then determine how to remove the cable. You may have to manipulate the door latch handle in order to optimize this removal. Then, disconnect any electrical harnesses that are restricting the removal of the door skin. Most of these connectors have a little release that's kind of a pain. You'll have to squeeze and pull just right to remove the connectors. These connectors will all be different from each other so don't worry about getting them mixed up since they're all slightly different shapes.
Then, there'll be a piece of plastic that covers up the rest of the door guts. There'll be a bead of glue that holds that plastic to the door. Peel the plastic back until you can see the window motor and regulator. Reconnect the window switch to its harness and operate the window motor until the regulator is in a position that you can access the fasteners that hold the glass to the regulator. Most Asian cars just have two 10mm bolts that connect plastic tabs mounted to the bottom of the glass to the regulator assembly. Confirm this in advance by examining the glass you got from the salvage yard. Remove these 10mm bolts and then, as I'm sure your original window is smashed (why else would you replace it?), vacuum the broken glass out of the door cavity.
The new glass is usually most easily installed by inserting it at sort of a diagonal, with the forward most point of the glass going down into the door first. Since the door frame is sort of a weird semi parallelogram, the glass won't drop right into the track. You'll sort of have to put it in sideways or diagonally, nose first, then the back corner into the track and then sort of stand it up correctly feeding it into the track as you right the glass. It's hard to describe, but it'll make perfect sense while you're doing it. Make sure that you install it into the tracks as you finesse the glass into the door. At this point, a GOOD FRIEND will help you by holding the glass as you reach into the door and line up the regulator with the tabs at the bottom of the glass so you can reattach it. Tighten up the bolts and then operate the window a few times to confirm your repair before you put the whole door back together. It should be smooth and quiet.
The glue that holds the plastic sheet on will still be sticky, so just push that plastic back into place, making sure that you don't trap your essential wiring behind it.
As far as the door panel goes, installation is reverse of removal. Just make sure that you line up all of your plastic retaining clips before you reinstall the door panel. If they're lined up correctly, they'll fit back nicely by whacking the door with the base of your palm.
Also, don't forget to reattach the door latch actuator cable, otherwise you'll have to take the whole thing back apart when you realize your passengers can't get out of the car.
You can totally do this. Right now, while it's still light out.
If you get stuck, just snap a picture and email me and I'll help you out. Good luck and get back to us with fun pictures and a great story about how easy this process turned out to be!
posted by Jon-o at 3:12 PM on April 5, 2010 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Thanks so much Jon-o, I have not performed the repair yet, but all of the stuff you described seems amazingly accurate based on what I saw in the car I was stripping. I'm excited to try it out tomorrow. I'll keep you posted.
posted by cloeburner at 5:51 PM on April 5, 2010
posted by cloeburner at 5:51 PM on April 5, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
http://www.chiltondiy.com/default.aspx
or if you have a used bookstore in the area you might just go and buy the book for that model, they usually are under $20 used and gives you every instruction on repair/maintenance of that particular make/model of car. Amazon has it for $18 and change.
posted by wcfields at 12:48 PM on April 5, 2010