Can our kooky, mouthy dog calm down?
December 15, 2009 10:13 PM Subscribe
Have you trained a super mouthy dog not to nip and chew? Is it possible?
(below is very long in case details matter; feel free to skim.)
We adopted a one year old, 35 pound, scampy looking, terrier mix last spring from a shelter. Face like a benjy, body long and short like a funny basset hound, eyes like a border collie. At first she was a nightmare: she chewed EVERYTHING (I mean everything in an entire room, including the entire contents of the bookshelves, the Duraflame log, the clothes, everything -- it happened in half an hour when I was in a different room working). At first she also nipped all the time in a herding (never an aggressive) way. Though she was playing, she once gave me a very severe nip in the leg with deep painful puncture wounds when I was running beside her -- again, in a herding/excited way. She loves to play but gets too excited.
A trainer taught us how to teach her not to nip; the technique has really worked great except when she's really out of her mind with excitement, which is any time food is involved (she was all bones when we got her -- now very strong and robust). Just tonight I was trying to teach her a trick, and she got so excited by the treat in my fist that she jumped up and nipped my nose. She was then mortified/overexcited and went tearing around the house like a maniac. In addition, she still tries to run after bikes and joggers; they drive her nuts. I am sure she would nip a runner if she ever got off the leash, and sometimes she does get out by mistake (I.e. the neighborhood kids let the gate open, or a child in our family opens the door without looking, etc) so I worry about what will happen if she chases someone who's out running on our suburban street.
Even though I've put in time training her, she doesn't consistently come when she focuses on something, like a deer or other animal, in the distance -- she has a hound/scenting/focus thing that suddenly tunes me out and off she goes. Again, I know she wouldn't attack anyone in an aggressive way -- she is not aggressive at all-- but she is still really wild. She plays great with huge dogs who don't mind her nipping, but I can't let her play with dogs her own size because she runs along and "herds" them with her teeth and some owners hate that (the dogs haven't seemed to mind much though -- again, it isn't aggressive, but it's annoying to some of them, understandably).
What if she gets out and causes a biker to crash, or nips a jogger as hard as she nipped me that one time? What if a neighborhood toddler gets nipped as hard as she nipped me when she broke my skin through jeans? We've had her for 6 months and she's improved SO MUCH, and the trainer says some of this craziness is still because she's youngish, but I am becoming aware that there is really always a danger of her getting too excited. Not to mention the constant chewing -- not only when she's alone in the house either; if I'm cooking dinner and not paying attention to her, she'll chew up books, hats, kids' toys she grabs from tables, anything at all, in almost a chewing frenzy. She'll drop her chewies and rawhide and treats and go for whatever she sees. In fact when she's alone in the house she sleeps, and when we're home she chews things if we don't pay attention to her every minute. It's getting so that the family is more frustrated and exasperated by her than enjoying her; my kids' friends absolutely HATE her and make us promise to lock her up when they come over, because she runs through the house so crazily, and suddenly runs through whatever they're doing, messes up their games and chews their toys if they leave the door open to where they're playing. I am at a loss. Again, we've done everything the trainer told us to, and it's like 500% better, but it is still very, very hard to live with this hyper dog. The trainer said she is just a very "mouthy" dog. Advice please? I hope you won't just tell me I'm a horrible dog owner. I'm an average, full-time-working person, a pretty typical pet owner who wants a nice life with our dog; I've had three dogs before and it always worked out great; I'm not totally dog-centered, though; even though I'm willing to work with the dog to some extent, I want the dog to fit into our world, not vice versa; so please don't respond if you think a dog owner has to be a professional and have full-time hours to devote to training to deserve a pet.
Again, we have had a trainer and spent many hours trying to train this doggie, and we do give her tons and tons of love. there is no way I'm giving her back to the shelter, by the way, but I wonder if she'd be better off as an outside dog on a farm.
We adopted a one year old, 35 pound, scampy looking, terrier mix last spring from a shelter. Face like a benjy, body long and short like a funny basset hound, eyes like a border collie. At first she was a nightmare: she chewed EVERYTHING (I mean everything in an entire room, including the entire contents of the bookshelves, the Duraflame log, the clothes, everything -- it happened in half an hour when I was in a different room working). At first she also nipped all the time in a herding (never an aggressive) way. Though she was playing, she once gave me a very severe nip in the leg with deep painful puncture wounds when I was running beside her -- again, in a herding/excited way. She loves to play but gets too excited.
A trainer taught us how to teach her not to nip; the technique has really worked great except when she's really out of her mind with excitement, which is any time food is involved (she was all bones when we got her -- now very strong and robust). Just tonight I was trying to teach her a trick, and she got so excited by the treat in my fist that she jumped up and nipped my nose. She was then mortified/overexcited and went tearing around the house like a maniac. In addition, she still tries to run after bikes and joggers; they drive her nuts. I am sure she would nip a runner if she ever got off the leash, and sometimes she does get out by mistake (I.e. the neighborhood kids let the gate open, or a child in our family opens the door without looking, etc) so I worry about what will happen if she chases someone who's out running on our suburban street.
Even though I've put in time training her, she doesn't consistently come when she focuses on something, like a deer or other animal, in the distance -- she has a hound/scenting/focus thing that suddenly tunes me out and off she goes. Again, I know she wouldn't attack anyone in an aggressive way -- she is not aggressive at all-- but she is still really wild. She plays great with huge dogs who don't mind her nipping, but I can't let her play with dogs her own size because she runs along and "herds" them with her teeth and some owners hate that (the dogs haven't seemed to mind much though -- again, it isn't aggressive, but it's annoying to some of them, understandably).
What if she gets out and causes a biker to crash, or nips a jogger as hard as she nipped me that one time? What if a neighborhood toddler gets nipped as hard as she nipped me when she broke my skin through jeans? We've had her for 6 months and she's improved SO MUCH, and the trainer says some of this craziness is still because she's youngish, but I am becoming aware that there is really always a danger of her getting too excited. Not to mention the constant chewing -- not only when she's alone in the house either; if I'm cooking dinner and not paying attention to her, she'll chew up books, hats, kids' toys she grabs from tables, anything at all, in almost a chewing frenzy. She'll drop her chewies and rawhide and treats and go for whatever she sees. In fact when she's alone in the house she sleeps, and when we're home she chews things if we don't pay attention to her every minute. It's getting so that the family is more frustrated and exasperated by her than enjoying her; my kids' friends absolutely HATE her and make us promise to lock her up when they come over, because she runs through the house so crazily, and suddenly runs through whatever they're doing, messes up their games and chews their toys if they leave the door open to where they're playing. I am at a loss. Again, we've done everything the trainer told us to, and it's like 500% better, but it is still very, very hard to live with this hyper dog. The trainer said she is just a very "mouthy" dog. Advice please? I hope you won't just tell me I'm a horrible dog owner. I'm an average, full-time-working person, a pretty typical pet owner who wants a nice life with our dog; I've had three dogs before and it always worked out great; I'm not totally dog-centered, though; even though I'm willing to work with the dog to some extent, I want the dog to fit into our world, not vice versa; so please don't respond if you think a dog owner has to be a professional and have full-time hours to devote to training to deserve a pet.
Again, we have had a trainer and spent many hours trying to train this doggie, and we do give her tons and tons of love. there is no way I'm giving her back to the shelter, by the way, but I wonder if she'd be better off as an outside dog on a farm.
Best answer: Also, Rescue Remedy might help.
posted by nestor_makhno at 10:39 PM on December 15, 2009
posted by nestor_makhno at 10:39 PM on December 15, 2009
Yes, you can do this. The last dog I adopted was a terrible nipper when I got her. She had all of the behaviors you describe when we got her as a 3 year old dog from the pound, except the actual biting: she only went for pants most of the time.
First off: you just have to be absolutely consistent that biting, things similar to biting and even thinking about biting are Not Allowed: don't wait for her to nip, correct her as soon as you see her thinking about nipping. If she starts getting rough with other dogs, yell "hey!" then go and get her and put her back on the leash and leave. Never let her "run off", always go get her. After a while she will respond to the voice command and back off but you need to watch her like a hawk and stop her the minute the herding behaviors come out. These things have to happen 100% of the time forever. If she gets away with thinking about nipping even one time it will set you back. The more observant you are of her behaviors the better you will get at correcting her before she even does anything wrong, while she's still just thinking about doing it. With our dog now all I have to do is cock an eyebrow across the park and she knocks it off. Because she knows that I will come and make her stop because that has never not happened.
Secondly apply the techniques the trainer taught you consistently and don't make excuses like "oh, she's excited". The dog has learned that the rule applies but with exceptions. There are no exceptions.
Which brings us to the third thing: teach her an alternate way to show her excitement like "get your toy", "give kisses", "be nice" or "give me a hug" so she has a way to express her excitement that is not biting you. Don't let her give kisses on the face, the back of your hand is OK. We do hugs and toys. She can bite the toy and I can hug her. Everyone is happy.
Finally- set her up for success not failure. You know she bites- don't put your face where she can get it when she's excited. Practice running with her and having her not bite you (or even think about it). Teach her to take food "nicely" and to "easy" with her mouth. "Easy" is a really useful command and every dog should know it anyway. Work on handling her mouth and muzzle a lot when she's calm and you're petting her. Build her ability to resist the triggers over time.
posted by fshgrl at 11:13 PM on December 15, 2009
First off: you just have to be absolutely consistent that biting, things similar to biting and even thinking about biting are Not Allowed: don't wait for her to nip, correct her as soon as you see her thinking about nipping. If she starts getting rough with other dogs, yell "hey!" then go and get her and put her back on the leash and leave. Never let her "run off", always go get her. After a while she will respond to the voice command and back off but you need to watch her like a hawk and stop her the minute the herding behaviors come out. These things have to happen 100% of the time forever. If she gets away with thinking about nipping even one time it will set you back. The more observant you are of her behaviors the better you will get at correcting her before she even does anything wrong, while she's still just thinking about doing it. With our dog now all I have to do is cock an eyebrow across the park and she knocks it off. Because she knows that I will come and make her stop because that has never not happened.
Secondly apply the techniques the trainer taught you consistently and don't make excuses like "oh, she's excited". The dog has learned that the rule applies but with exceptions. There are no exceptions.
Which brings us to the third thing: teach her an alternate way to show her excitement like "get your toy", "give kisses", "be nice" or "give me a hug" so she has a way to express her excitement that is not biting you. Don't let her give kisses on the face, the back of your hand is OK. We do hugs and toys. She can bite the toy and I can hug her. Everyone is happy.
Finally- set her up for success not failure. You know she bites- don't put your face where she can get it when she's excited. Practice running with her and having her not bite you (or even think about it). Teach her to take food "nicely" and to "easy" with her mouth. "Easy" is a really useful command and every dog should know it anyway. Work on handling her mouth and muzzle a lot when she's calm and you're petting her. Build her ability to resist the triggers over time.
posted by fshgrl at 11:13 PM on December 15, 2009
Ok, first thing I want to say is: Good For You!!! You've taken a troubled being into your life and are doing everything you can to help her... that's awesome.
I have a similar dog, whom I rescued from a parking lot in Oaxaca, Mexico. She's now 5 and while she's still pretty hyper and 'unique', she is so much mellower than she was at 1 or even 2 years old. Hang in there, your girl will keep getting better, and mellowing.
As for specific techniques? I recommend considering the following ideas:
Crate train her; when you can't give her your attention and your worried about her behaviour, she can go to her crate for a while, giving everyone a break.
Close leash her, even in the house. Tie a leash to your belt, and keep her on said leash. It's best if her main caregiver does this. This way she can't get into too much trouble, even if you're busy and distracted doing other things. At first this will suck... she's bored and always underfoot, but in the long run it will help her. I'd bet a lot of her 'acting out' comes from anxiety, and if she feels close and part of someone's moment to moment activity, she'll likely be calmer, overall.
My beastling was a big mouther. I trained her to always get a toy when greeting people at the door. She now does it automatically... it really helps. Essentially she wasn't allowed to say hello to guests without a toy in her mouth.
And, unfortunately, a big part of the next while will just be accepting her limitations and adjusting your life to that... but be assured that she will mellow with time.
Oh, and I'm nthing the more exercise the better. I found that 'swimming to retrieve a big log' sessions were great for my dog, when she was younger. Now, 5 years later, she is content with a daily session of 'chase the ball'.
And know that you are not a 'bad pet owner', in fact, you are the best kind of pet owner there is! It's too easy to 'own' an obedient, mellow and sedate pet. Caring for a half wild animal is the real test of compassion and patience.
posted by Sustainable Chiles at 12:41 AM on December 16, 2009 [1 favorite]
I have a similar dog, whom I rescued from a parking lot in Oaxaca, Mexico. She's now 5 and while she's still pretty hyper and 'unique', she is so much mellower than she was at 1 or even 2 years old. Hang in there, your girl will keep getting better, and mellowing.
As for specific techniques? I recommend considering the following ideas:
Crate train her; when you can't give her your attention and your worried about her behaviour, she can go to her crate for a while, giving everyone a break.
Close leash her, even in the house. Tie a leash to your belt, and keep her on said leash. It's best if her main caregiver does this. This way she can't get into too much trouble, even if you're busy and distracted doing other things. At first this will suck... she's bored and always underfoot, but in the long run it will help her. I'd bet a lot of her 'acting out' comes from anxiety, and if she feels close and part of someone's moment to moment activity, she'll likely be calmer, overall.
My beastling was a big mouther. I trained her to always get a toy when greeting people at the door. She now does it automatically... it really helps. Essentially she wasn't allowed to say hello to guests without a toy in her mouth.
And, unfortunately, a big part of the next while will just be accepting her limitations and adjusting your life to that... but be assured that she will mellow with time.
Oh, and I'm nthing the more exercise the better. I found that 'swimming to retrieve a big log' sessions were great for my dog, when she was younger. Now, 5 years later, she is content with a daily session of 'chase the ball'.
And know that you are not a 'bad pet owner', in fact, you are the best kind of pet owner there is! It's too easy to 'own' an obedient, mellow and sedate pet. Caring for a half wild animal is the real test of compassion and patience.
posted by Sustainable Chiles at 12:41 AM on December 16, 2009 [1 favorite]
Best answer: I hear you. Owner of a cattle dog / terrier mix here. Lots of nipping and biting at first, now much, much better after a lot of training.
Take your dog on three long leashed walks during the day. This will get her nice and worn out (in a good way) and will also let her work out her place in the great chain of being.
And let her sleep next to (not on) your bed at night until they're more settled. Dogs are social, and sleeping next to you, in a room that smells like you, is really comforting.
Biting and herding and interior-redecorating behaviors: you need to keep your dog on leash full-time, indoors and out, until the behavior issues are resolved. When your dog is not leashed and in your control (either attached to you or some truly immovable object), then the dog must be in a crate. Not as a punishment, but as a safe place for her.
Crating means no possibility of mayhem. It's shelter. It's a place your dog can call her own. And it's portable, so your dog can have her own place when you travel. A dog trainer, or any dog book that deals with crate training, will have plenty of advice on how to introduce your dog to crates.
Leashing and crating will calm your dog down over time, and it will also reduce the odds that she escapes and bites a stranger. You really don't want that, and it sounds like you're worried it could happen. No gate will stop an excited, smart, medium-sized dog 100% of the time. Especially a breed that is known for digging under fences. So don't let your dog off leash, indoors or out.
Other tips: pay attention to the dog's energy level and cease playtime when the dog is getting too tired or excited -- those are the times when the dog is likely to slip up and bite. Head it off before it happens, when you can.
Herding, boy do I know that one! My dog would love nothing better than to herd anything that moves. But it's possible to redirect that energy and also train the dog to behave less aggressively. And I think it's OK to call herding aggressive behavior. It doesn't mean the dog is bad, it's just what they do.
That said, you do need to establish that herding humans is not OK, full stop. Any nip on a human and playtime is over. Be firm. Same goes for dogs in the park. If your dog doesn't stop when the other dog wants to stop, then you need to correct your dog.
Good behavior looks like this: dogs sidle up to each other and sniff, and maybe get into a scuffle while sorting things out, sure, but then they stop, check things out, and follow each other around (before getting into the next scuffle). Herding looks like this: one dog chasing the other around and around, pouncing on the other dog even when it stops. When you see this, step in and grab your dog by the collar or leash -- it's time for a break. Tying a clothesline to your dog's collar makes retrieval easier, but until you have near-zero worry that your dog might bite people, keep her on a short leash at the park.
A good weekly dog class will go a long ways towards teaching your dog to behave around other dogs. Also, a herding dog needs a job and, absent a herd to move around, the next best job is learning tricks. And repeating them. And learning more tricks.
Good luck!
posted by zippy at 1:48 AM on December 16, 2009
Take your dog on three long leashed walks during the day. This will get her nice and worn out (in a good way) and will also let her work out her place in the great chain of being.
And let her sleep next to (not on) your bed at night until they're more settled. Dogs are social, and sleeping next to you, in a room that smells like you, is really comforting.
Biting and herding and interior-redecorating behaviors: you need to keep your dog on leash full-time, indoors and out, until the behavior issues are resolved. When your dog is not leashed and in your control (either attached to you or some truly immovable object), then the dog must be in a crate. Not as a punishment, but as a safe place for her.
Crating means no possibility of mayhem. It's shelter. It's a place your dog can call her own. And it's portable, so your dog can have her own place when you travel. A dog trainer, or any dog book that deals with crate training, will have plenty of advice on how to introduce your dog to crates.
Leashing and crating will calm your dog down over time, and it will also reduce the odds that she escapes and bites a stranger. You really don't want that, and it sounds like you're worried it could happen. No gate will stop an excited, smart, medium-sized dog 100% of the time. Especially a breed that is known for digging under fences. So don't let your dog off leash, indoors or out.
Other tips: pay attention to the dog's energy level and cease playtime when the dog is getting too tired or excited -- those are the times when the dog is likely to slip up and bite. Head it off before it happens, when you can.
Herding, boy do I know that one! My dog would love nothing better than to herd anything that moves. But it's possible to redirect that energy and also train the dog to behave less aggressively. And I think it's OK to call herding aggressive behavior. It doesn't mean the dog is bad, it's just what they do.
That said, you do need to establish that herding humans is not OK, full stop. Any nip on a human and playtime is over. Be firm. Same goes for dogs in the park. If your dog doesn't stop when the other dog wants to stop, then you need to correct your dog.
Good behavior looks like this: dogs sidle up to each other and sniff, and maybe get into a scuffle while sorting things out, sure, but then they stop, check things out, and follow each other around (before getting into the next scuffle). Herding looks like this: one dog chasing the other around and around, pouncing on the other dog even when it stops. When you see this, step in and grab your dog by the collar or leash -- it's time for a break. Tying a clothesline to your dog's collar makes retrieval easier, but until you have near-zero worry that your dog might bite people, keep her on a short leash at the park.
A good weekly dog class will go a long ways towards teaching your dog to behave around other dogs. Also, a herding dog needs a job and, absent a herd to move around, the next best job is learning tricks. And repeating them. And learning more tricks.
Good luck!
posted by zippy at 1:48 AM on December 16, 2009
I am sorry, but Rescue Remedy will not help, unless your dog is susceptible to the placebo effect.
posted by buxtonbluecat at 4:51 AM on December 16, 2009 [2 favorites]
posted by buxtonbluecat at 4:51 AM on December 16, 2009 [2 favorites]
Best answer: You need to stop making excuses about herding nips vs. aggression.
Say your dog is loose in the yard and the kids leave the gate open. Next thing you know, your dog has "non-aggressively" injured a smaller dog on his walk, nipped a young child in his yard, or bitten a baby being pushed in his stroller by his parents.
Then it's game over for your dog and time to call your lawyer.
Do not allow your dog to air snap, nip or bite -- ever. The action is its own reward, so every time she is successful at it, there is a chance that the next time will be more severe. If your dog can nip bigger dogs with reckless abandon, stop letting her play with dogs. You cannot allow her to be in situations in which you do not have complete control over her.
A lot of the advice above is great. Definitely ease her into situations where she is likely to want to nip, and before she gets that gleam in her eye, make her focus on something else, like a specific toy, moving to a specific location, spinning in circles, etc. You need to redirect her behavior.
Consult your veterinarian on her behavior right away. Ask your veterinarian if he/she takes a special interest in behavioral issues. If not, ask for a referral.
If you can have her around other dogs and people without her going instantly ballistic, you might consider sports like agility training. It can give her an appropriate outlet for her instincts and train her to look to you for direction before she escalates into herding mode.
If she is a tough nut to crack, you may need to explore the "Nothing In Life Is Free (NILIF)" technique. Definitely do this with the advice of a vet or trainer.
Whatever you do, stay calm while you are doing it. Dogs can sense your stress and it just makes them crazier. Yelling does nothing except make your voice louder. Do it if your dog is far off in the distance -- but it is useless for emphasis. Never punish. There are different schools of thought on "correction" but if you use it, use it judiciously and with a cool head -- and with the advice of a reputable trainer. The last thing you want is to make your dog afraid. If she is already nipping or biting there is a good chance that she will start using that tactic to deal with her fear.
posted by rocketpup at 7:11 AM on December 16, 2009
Say your dog is loose in the yard and the kids leave the gate open. Next thing you know, your dog has "non-aggressively" injured a smaller dog on his walk, nipped a young child in his yard, or bitten a baby being pushed in his stroller by his parents.
Then it's game over for your dog and time to call your lawyer.
Do not allow your dog to air snap, nip or bite -- ever. The action is its own reward, so every time she is successful at it, there is a chance that the next time will be more severe. If your dog can nip bigger dogs with reckless abandon, stop letting her play with dogs. You cannot allow her to be in situations in which you do not have complete control over her.
A lot of the advice above is great. Definitely ease her into situations where she is likely to want to nip, and before she gets that gleam in her eye, make her focus on something else, like a specific toy, moving to a specific location, spinning in circles, etc. You need to redirect her behavior.
Consult your veterinarian on her behavior right away. Ask your veterinarian if he/she takes a special interest in behavioral issues. If not, ask for a referral.
If you can have her around other dogs and people without her going instantly ballistic, you might consider sports like agility training. It can give her an appropriate outlet for her instincts and train her to look to you for direction before she escalates into herding mode.
If she is a tough nut to crack, you may need to explore the "Nothing In Life Is Free (NILIF)" technique. Definitely do this with the advice of a vet or trainer.
Whatever you do, stay calm while you are doing it. Dogs can sense your stress and it just makes them crazier. Yelling does nothing except make your voice louder. Do it if your dog is far off in the distance -- but it is useless for emphasis. Never punish. There are different schools of thought on "correction" but if you use it, use it judiciously and with a cool head -- and with the advice of a reputable trainer. The last thing you want is to make your dog afraid. If she is already nipping or biting there is a good chance that she will start using that tactic to deal with her fear.
posted by rocketpup at 7:11 AM on December 16, 2009
Oh, and just one more thing. If anyone claiming expertise in dog behavior downplays the seriousness of any nip or bite, seek other advice.
posted by rocketpup at 7:14 AM on December 16, 2009
posted by rocketpup at 7:14 AM on December 16, 2009
A lot of good advice here, let me just add that 1 year old is still a puppy. She's not a grownup yet and a lot of dogs change a LOT from 1 to 3. My springer spaniel, who destroyed my house repeatedly in his first two years (for him, 18 months was the absolute nadir) has finally, finally calmed down. Not completely, no - he will always be a bouncy bouncy thing - but the really worrisome stuff has gone away now that he is 3. I'm so glad I didn't give in to my frustration and give him up because he's almost perfect now. Hang in there!
posted by mygothlaundry at 8:39 AM on December 16, 2009
posted by mygothlaundry at 8:39 AM on December 16, 2009
Best answer: Our shepherd/hound mix had the same problem when he was young. He tore up our pants herding us and any kind of "correction" would send him tearing through the house with the crazies. He even drew blood when nipping a couple times.
We used a lot of the advice you've gotten already. A combination of crate training and tethering when you can't have your complete attention on her will help, as will as much exercise as you can possibly give her.
Here's what ended up working for us. We picked one room in the house where he could do a minimal amount of damage if we left him in there alone. That room was where we did all the playing and most of our training. If he got worked up we'd offer a toy before he got all bitey. If he took it, he'd get some playtime and a treat. Anytime a tooth even touched skin or clothing we immediately (but calmly) left the room and shut the door until he was calm. This usually took less than a minute. Anytime he got so worked up that he wouldn't sit or down on command, we'd do the same. The trick is that the room or whatever space you're using needs to be boring enough so that your presence is a reward. Any teeth or out of control behavior means fun time is over.
It took about a month of absolute consistency for this to work, but our dog hasn't touched anyone with his teeth since.
I'm going to second NILIF. Our dog needed that kind of structure. I'd also recommend bitter apple spray to help with the chewing problems. You can spray down anything you think she might want to gnaw on, including yourself.
If you haven't already, look into a class that teaches clicker training. With a hyper dog, it's much easier to catch good behavior with a clicker, and training became much easier. My dog was much more engaged and I was much less frustrated.
You can get through this! My dog is 3 now. He was insane for the first year and a half of his life, but with training and patience he's become a sweet mellow dog, and I trust him around anyone.
posted by Kicky at 9:20 AM on December 16, 2009 [1 favorite]
We used a lot of the advice you've gotten already. A combination of crate training and tethering when you can't have your complete attention on her will help, as will as much exercise as you can possibly give her.
Here's what ended up working for us. We picked one room in the house where he could do a minimal amount of damage if we left him in there alone. That room was where we did all the playing and most of our training. If he got worked up we'd offer a toy before he got all bitey. If he took it, he'd get some playtime and a treat. Anytime a tooth even touched skin or clothing we immediately (but calmly) left the room and shut the door until he was calm. This usually took less than a minute. Anytime he got so worked up that he wouldn't sit or down on command, we'd do the same. The trick is that the room or whatever space you're using needs to be boring enough so that your presence is a reward. Any teeth or out of control behavior means fun time is over.
It took about a month of absolute consistency for this to work, but our dog hasn't touched anyone with his teeth since.
I'm going to second NILIF. Our dog needed that kind of structure. I'd also recommend bitter apple spray to help with the chewing problems. You can spray down anything you think she might want to gnaw on, including yourself.
If you haven't already, look into a class that teaches clicker training. With a hyper dog, it's much easier to catch good behavior with a clicker, and training became much easier. My dog was much more engaged and I was much less frustrated.
You can get through this! My dog is 3 now. He was insane for the first year and a half of his life, but with training and patience he's become a sweet mellow dog, and I trust him around anyone.
posted by Kicky at 9:20 AM on December 16, 2009 [1 favorite]
Best answer: I want to add another technique I've found helpfull with my dog, in regards to wearing her out. If you are unable to give her off leash time to really run, for whatever reason, try a leashed walk with a dog 'backpack'.
I'll take my dog on walks through the neighbourhood, and she carries about 10-15% of her body weight in the form of bottled water. It helps wear her out faster, and it gives her more of a 'job' to do. I use the Ruff Wear Approach Pack. It really helps with my dog.
posted by Sustainable Chiles at 10:18 AM on December 16, 2009
I'll take my dog on walks through the neighbourhood, and she carries about 10-15% of her body weight in the form of bottled water. It helps wear her out faster, and it gives her more of a 'job' to do. I use the Ruff Wear Approach Pack. It really helps with my dog.
posted by Sustainable Chiles at 10:18 AM on December 16, 2009
I don't have much to add, but our dog goes crazy for treats, too, as well as having a nipping/biting problem. We found it challenging to train him because he would get SO EXCITED that he couldn't focus on what we wanted him to do. We consulted a professional trainer, who doesn't use treats--just praise for positive reinforcement and negative noise (growling, a collar that replicates the snapping sound, and a "training pillow" with metal bits in it that also replicates a snap sound) for negative reinforcement. We've only been training him using these methods for a few days now, but the walking and barking situations are getting better.
The pamphlet that we got recommended bitter apple spray, for mouthing. Our dog likes bitter apple, so we'll need to figure out an alternative to that.
posted by emkelley at 2:45 PM on December 16, 2009
The pamphlet that we got recommended bitter apple spray, for mouthing. Our dog likes bitter apple, so we'll need to figure out an alternative to that.
posted by emkelley at 2:45 PM on December 16, 2009
This thread is closed to new comments.
Your post is almost impossible to read. It needs paragraph breaks.
posted by nestor_makhno at 10:36 PM on December 15, 2009