Montana?

October 26, 2009 7:24 AM

I will be living in Montana for 6 weeks this winter. I've only ever lived in New England, with a couple of brief stints in other places. Please tell me what to expect.

I am going to be living in Basin, Montana for most of January and February and other than knowing that it will be somewhat remote and desolate, I have no idea what it will be like to live there. Currently, I have a very urban lifestyle -- I throw on cold weather running gear and run outside, I head to Trader Joe's for cheapish food and Whole Foods or my local health food store for veggies and other comestibles. I go to the movies, bars, coffeeshops. I am a foodie. I am queer, a progressive, an activist, etc. As you can tell, your all around blue New England urban lifestyle.

Wtf will it be like in Basin, Montana? Any tips around day-to-day life, how to show, how to run (I definitely am interested in how to run, both weather-wise and is-it-safe-to-run-alone-in-desolate-landwise), how to recreate, what not to miss (I have heard Missoula is awesome), how to keep warm (weather tips greatly appreciated--no idea what to expect), how to interact with folks. I will have a car out there.

I have so little point for reference that I don't even know what I should be asking here, so I apologize for the vagueness. Thanks in advance.

posted by Rudy Gerner to grab bag (16 comments total)

Of course it will be colder than what you're used to--and windy! People will generally be friendly, but will be put off if you are too pushy or intrusive. Since you mention it specifically, you are probably wondering about acceptance of your homosexuality. I would say most people you meet won't care, but the thing is that most people in this part of the country just don't talk about it. They won't care, but they'll expect you NOT to talk about your personal sexuality, or anything too personal, for that matter.

Activism and environmentalism are not out of the ordinary...you'll probably want to stear clear of discussions of hunting, however. For the most part, people will be interested in why you are there. Just be friendly, while being respectful of locals' well-guarded privacy, and you should get along just fine. Oh, and interacting? I'd say bars and cafes in general (if you're a foodie, you'll love the homecooked food!), but I have no knowledge of the specific town.
posted by Eicats at 7:43 AM on October 26, 2009

You know winter, but Montana winter is colder, a lot colder. Running is going to suck in this weather and you may have a difficult time finding well cleaned streets to run on. Crime is not going to be an issue (I am not sure if that is what you alluded to). You will not want to have any exposed skin. A balaclava or face mask is wise.

I don't know Basin, but I think you will find in general the people in small towns in Montana to be very friendly, but perhaps not so accepting of your lifestyle and definitely conservative. Although you may be surprised. The people I have met there were kind of like the New Hampshire conservatives. "You let me be me and you can be you, as long as we both keep it low key." That is I don't think you need to hide your sexual orientation but I wouldn't bring it up if they don't.
posted by caddis at 7:48 AM on October 26, 2009

I will have a car out there.

Snow tires, chains, and a proper winter survival kit in the trunk.
posted by nathan_teske at 7:58 AM on October 26, 2009

I lived in Missoula for a while. I think the hardest thing for me to deal with was the lack of media. I would sit outside with my radio trying desperately to pick up the CBC from Calgary. (Mind you I didn't have internet at this time either.) The New York Times would come in at about 2:30 and cost twice the newsstand price. So if you're internetless be prepared to be a bit disconnected to the outside world.

No T.J.s no Whole Foods, but maybe a local Organic CoOp market or something like that in the nearest college/tourist town.
posted by sleepytako at 8:33 AM on October 26, 2009

Basin is going to be freeeeeezing* come January and February. Picture cold, dry, icy and windy. Always have a bucket of sand in your car, a blanket, a wind-up flashlight and some food. Expect to not have cell phone service and plan accordingly (ie, if you're going out, make sure someone knows where you're going and when you'll be back). Allow extra time to sweep large amounts of snow off of your car.

North Face jackets and the like are very popular and a good investment--especially the wind-proof ones.

Regarding running, how comfortable are you running on ice? You might want to stop in Bob Marshall or REI in Butte to see what they would suggest.

Be prepared for a bit of a culture shock and do be aware that mullets are still surprisingly popular in Butte (probably your closest 'city'). But it definitely has its charm, so I would recommend taking a break there on your way to Missoula. Regarding Missoula, it has the most bizarre street arrangement. I always get lost. Definitely memorise the map and get good directions before you go.

I'm sure you've already looked into this, but do whatever you can to see Yellowstone while you're in the area. Not everything will be open that time of year, but there will be fewer tourists.

Ah, it makes me homesick.

*Disclaimer: It's not always freezing. I remember one February where kids were wearing shorts. The weather can be terribly unpredictable. But do keep in mind that there were winter storm warnings in September this year, I believe*
posted by brambory at 8:56 AM on October 26, 2009

Sorry--it's actually Bob Wards, not Bob Marshall, of course.
posted by brambory at 9:41 AM on October 26, 2009

Butte is your closest city for shopping. However, it is a town that has never really recovered from the economic devastation caused by the closing of the major mining operations. Helena is a little farther away but much more cosmopolitan. Because it is the state capital, there are a lot more young professionals. The U of M at Missoula is nationally known for its writers program and Missoula has a very active artists community. Bozeman is also a college town where you will find a lot of young people very active in outdoor activities.

In the winter, always carry a warm sleeping bag in your car and always carry a flat shovel to dig yourself out if you get stuck. Sometimes all you need to do is shovel out a few feet in front of your tires to get going again. Make sure your radiator anti-freeze is good for at least 40 below.
posted by JackFlash at 10:00 AM on October 26, 2009

Bozeman is going to be your closest sure-fire source of health food. I wouldn't be surprised if they've got both a WF and a Trader Joe's by now. That's also going to be your best bet for concerts and such as Bozeman is halfway between the West Coast and the Twin Cities so it's a customary gas-money stop for touring bands. Missoula is a great town. For comparison's sake, it's hippie to Bozeman's yuppie. And any Montanan will happily tell you the Butte sucks. Also, general best practices are steer clear of Butte on Saint Patrick's day. Shit gets rowdy.

One cultural thing you'll need to get used to is that Montanans routinely drive *long* distances. As in, I once drove 150 miles each way to satisfy my hankering for Thai food.

Winter survival is definitely an issue while driving. If you put your car in the ditch, it could be a while before help comes by. When I lived there, I routinely carried a sleeping bag, a stove, and cold weather gear. Never once needed it and never once had someone fail to stop and help me out of whatever predicament I was in.

Since you live in New England you may already have one, but if you don't, get a block heater installed. If nothing else, your heater will kick in faster.

Running is fine and safe, but you might enjoy snowshoeing or cross country skiing more. One note about that is that many people living in Montana carry firearms in the backcountry as a matter of course. Even in liberal Bozeman, I saw firearms openly carried routinely. And, yeah, it freaked me out until I learned to accept it. I would pretty much assume that anyone I'm speaking to is a gun owner and a hunter. Gun culture in MT is more routine and more guns-as-tools than the gun clinging, insular sort of gun culture I see in places like Seattle where firearms are more taboo.

In general, the vibe in Montana is more live-and-let-live than strictly socially conservative. However, bar fights are second only to North Dakota jokes as far as state sports go. Steer clear of bars that have a rowdy, rednecky vibe to them and you'll be fine. Feel free to ask where the rowdy cowboys hang out and you should get a response.

I would say most people you meet won't care, but the thing is that most people in this part of the country just don't talk about it.

Also this. One thing about the Matthew Shepard tragedy that sticks out to me as small-town western is that it was common knowledge that he was gay. And, in the by and by, folks didn't care. They might not approve, but there is a culture of minding your own business. His murder was not an anonymous gay-bashing, but a couple of pieces of shit deciding to victimize someone they already knew. I would feel much safer being out in small-town Montana than small-town Wisconsin (where I grew up).
posted by stet at 10:47 AM on October 26, 2009

nathan_teske wrote "Snow tires, chains, and a proper winter survival kit in the trunk."

This. When we lived in Montana my dad never drove ANYWHERE without the chains, boots, sleeping bag, hat, gloves and an extra coat in the back of the car. I still find myself checking to be sure we have a spare blanket in the trunk at a minimum, and I haven't lived in Montana since 1985.

I don't remember winters there being too bad; cold, yes, but for day-to-day life it wasn't horrible. Then again, I like winter sports, so YMMV. My uncle still lives near Anaconda and from his reports it hasn't changed from what I remember - aside from massive amounts of snow things are reasonable to deal with. Cold, windy, lots of snow on the ground, but snowfalls weren't really excessively often, just a lot at once when it did happen. Mostly dry, powdery snow. Like shoveling sand, but cold enough that once you move it the snow isn't going to just melt and run back onto the sidewalk by the end of the day. Incidentally, that kind of snow makes for some really nice cross-country skiing, so if you don't have cross-country skis you might want to look into renting or buying a pair. There are any number of places to go, groomed trail or make-your-own. And if you're into ice fishing at all you shouldn't have to go far to find a good spot.
posted by caution live frogs at 12:04 PM on October 26, 2009

A some one who grew up in Montana and has lived in New England, the biggest difference was the scale in size and distance between places. Anyway, a couple of places you might want to check out: The Real Food Store in Helena (40 miles south of Basin on I-5) is a surprisingly big health food store less than an hour drive from Basin. If you go to Helena, you might also enjoy the No Sweat Cafe, which is a cozy, comfort food type of place . Also, when it gets really cold, you might enjoy Boulder Hot Springs, which is about 10 miles away from Basin and has a bit of an alternative vibe to the place.

Enjoy your time in Montana, the area around Basin is beautiful.
posted by Staggering Jack at 12:57 PM on October 26, 2009

Oops - Helena is south of Basin on I-15. It's the only interstate in Basin so it won't be hard to find.
posted by Staggering Jack at 1:00 PM on October 26, 2009

OMG, please tell me you are going to write an article or a blog about this experience. I am from the rocky mountain west, and I was shocked at how "close together" everything is on the east coast. I mean, how do you tell that you have entered a new town unless you have driven through 100 empty miles of desolation first?

So, advice #1: Always keep your gas tank full.

Also, westerners are very live-and-let-live. This means that you mind your own business and they mind theirs, in a kind of friendly way. Which brings me to:

Advice #2: If you need help, you'll have to ask for it. Otherwise, people may leave you alone entirely. They will be more than happy to help, but they fear being intrusive above all else.

I agree with the other posters that you should be a little guarded. My spouse was born and raised in Montana, but when he goes back to visit the smaller towns, he still gets asked things like, "You didn't turn Democrat, did you?" (He did.)

The larger cities in Montana (Billings, Missoula, Bozeman, Helena) are likely to be just typical western cities to you, with all the amenities and no strong political sides. Butte is its own animal entirely, though.

Good luck! I really hope you enjoy your experience. Please post about how it goes!
posted by Knowyournuts at 3:40 PM on October 26, 2009

You might want to try Yaktrax for your running shoes. (They're awesome for firm-packed snow, but can be difficult getting used to on hard-frozen ice.)
posted by elizardbits at 6:58 PM on October 26, 2009

Nthing the keep a sleeping-bag-and-emergency-supplies-in-your-car advice.

Running in very cold weather is definitely doable (finding the right clothing setup might take some experimenting- here are two recent threads that may have some help for you), running in desolate spots is totally fine (stay on roads if you are worried, or set a time to check in with a friend). These Stabilicers work a lot better than Yaktrax for running on ice, and as a bonus don't break towards the end of one season like the Yaktrax always do, so you can use them year after year- they even sell sets of stud replacers for them.
posted by charmedimsure at 8:42 PM on October 26, 2009

Hey, Basin is home the the Montana Artists Refuge. Very cool. I am sure that the folks in this town are quite comfortable with all manner of city folk, blue staters, alternative lifestyles, etc.

"Here, people can be uniquely who they are," Parsons says. "That's what Basinnites love about each other. We're a little bit quirky."

Montana is one of the world's most fantastic places, and this town looks like one of its many gems. I am a little skeptical about one of the local attractions though - the the Radon "Health" Mines.
posted by caddis at 7:59 AM on October 27, 2009

Oh, one more thing from me: It is dry there. Even the snow is dry. Powdery.

So, Advice #3: Bring a big bottle of your favorite lotion, and some extra chapstick.
posted by Knowyournuts at 10:58 AM on October 28, 2009