Which mini-saw to buy?
June 5, 2009 12:59 PM Subscribe
Mini-power-tools filter: What will cut hardboard and fine plywood more cleanly, given the right blade: A basic Fein MultiMaster, or a Makita 3.3-in circular saw? See, …
I need to cut a bunch of smallish (mostly 5x7, 7x10 and up, nothing bigger than around 20x30) perfectly square, very clean-edged rectangles from 3/8-in. hardboard, and 1/4-in. smooth-faced plywood. I have no power saw and no shop, very little storage space, and don't anticipate ever needing a saw much bigger or stronger that these tools; I'll be working on my deck with saw-horses or something better.
A very clean edge and very easy guiding of perfectly straight cuts (guiding along a clamped straight-edge?) are equal, top priorities. Secondary are power, durability, cost ($220+ is possible but seems excessive), other functionality/accessories.
I narrowed my search down to the two mentioned tools based solely on a few hours reading reviews at Amazon for various Dremel tools/attachments (all seem too cheesy/underpowered, too shallow-cutting), all the knock-offs of the MultiMaster that I could find there (the Fein seems worth the money, but maybe not…?), the RotoZip+ZipMate (can't quite tell if this is actually a comparable tool…?), and a few other things I can't recall. I'm open to the idea that there are tools I've overlooked. TIA for your experiences and suggestions!
I need to cut a bunch of smallish (mostly 5x7, 7x10 and up, nothing bigger than around 20x30) perfectly square, very clean-edged rectangles from 3/8-in. hardboard, and 1/4-in. smooth-faced plywood. I have no power saw and no shop, very little storage space, and don't anticipate ever needing a saw much bigger or stronger that these tools; I'll be working on my deck with saw-horses or something better.
A very clean edge and very easy guiding of perfectly straight cuts (guiding along a clamped straight-edge?) are equal, top priorities. Secondary are power, durability, cost ($220+ is possible but seems excessive), other functionality/accessories.
I narrowed my search down to the two mentioned tools based solely on a few hours reading reviews at Amazon for various Dremel tools/attachments (all seem too cheesy/underpowered, too shallow-cutting), all the knock-offs of the MultiMaster that I could find there (the Fein seems worth the money, but maybe not…?), the RotoZip+ZipMate (can't quite tell if this is actually a comparable tool…?), and a few other things I can't recall. I'm open to the idea that there are tools I've overlooked. TIA for your experiences and suggestions!
You might consider a jigsaw like this one. That MultiMaster tool seems a bit gimmicky to me.
posted by kc8nod at 1:10 PM on June 5, 2009
posted by kc8nod at 1:10 PM on June 5, 2009
Have you given any thought to using a router?
posted by torquemaniac at 1:11 PM on June 5, 2009 [1 favorite]
posted by torquemaniac at 1:11 PM on June 5, 2009 [1 favorite]
I agree with Pantengliopoli. Go with the circular saw. Clamp a 2x4 to the plywood as a fence. Put a strip of masking tape along the back side of the cut to keep the outer layer from splintering.
posted by Uncle Jimmy at 1:12 PM on June 5, 2009
posted by Uncle Jimmy at 1:12 PM on June 5, 2009
Response by poster: I'll admit that it was the gimmick factor that had me looking at the Fein and clones…
So, between a circular saw and a jig-saw, is there a clear preference? I like the price of the jigs, but have a completely-inexperienced sense that they're optimized for curves rather than straight cuts…no?
posted by dpcoffin at 1:37 PM on June 5, 2009
So, between a circular saw and a jig-saw, is there a clear preference? I like the price of the jigs, but have a completely-inexperienced sense that they're optimized for curves rather than straight cuts…no?
posted by dpcoffin at 1:37 PM on June 5, 2009
I'd forgotten about a jig saw -- that would do the job well too, riding along a fence. The thin blade definitely shines when it comes to making curves, but the cleaner cut might serve you well. A fine blade on a circular saw will produce a good cut as well, but the jig is probably better.
posted by Pantengliopoli at 1:43 PM on June 5, 2009
posted by Pantengliopoli at 1:43 PM on June 5, 2009
Circular saw with a zero clearance insert, score the line before you cut, use a sacrificial backerboard (or use painter's tape) and use a saw blade with lots of teeth. Also, the minisaws are sort of pointless. You're better off with a decent full sized circular saw or picking up a used tablesaw on craigslist.
posted by electroboy at 1:51 PM on June 5, 2009
posted by electroboy at 1:51 PM on June 5, 2009
I am a pro woodworker, if only part time. Of the two you mentioned, the circular saw is definitely better. The Multimaster is a special purpose tool meant for cutting in restricted areas, not anything like what you want to do.
However, you can get a basic plug-in type circular saw for less than $100. Pay another $15 for a fine-toothed carbide blade, and you'll get better performance for much less money than the tools you're considering.
posted by jon1270 at 1:59 PM on June 5, 2009
However, you can get a basic plug-in type circular saw for less than $100. Pay another $15 for a fine-toothed carbide blade, and you'll get better performance for much less money than the tools you're considering.
posted by jon1270 at 1:59 PM on June 5, 2009
Response by poster: What's the advantage of a router? Seems they might be more versatile overall… Are they just as easy to guide as saws?
posted by dpcoffin at 2:01 PM on June 5, 2009
posted by dpcoffin at 2:01 PM on June 5, 2009
A router is overkill for what you're going to do. They're much better at shaping an edge than actually through-cutting. And for a straight cut they're harder to guide than a saw.
Definitely do the circular saw and fine-toothed blade. The things that will matter the most for the cut quality are 1. Blade quality, sharpness (important!) and type (lots of teeth for what you're looking at), and 2) saw quality. The runout (wobble of the saw as it rotates) also has an effect on cut quality, although it's a smaller effect than the blade unless it's *really* bad.
A table saw will be easier, but a circular saw will work as well given the right jig/fixture. If you're never going to use the tool again, you could consider renting the saw. You'll probably want to buy a blade, though--can't really count on a sharp blade on a rental.
posted by RikiTikiTavi at 2:16 PM on June 5, 2009
Definitely do the circular saw and fine-toothed blade. The things that will matter the most for the cut quality are 1. Blade quality, sharpness (important!) and type (lots of teeth for what you're looking at), and 2) saw quality. The runout (wobble of the saw as it rotates) also has an effect on cut quality, although it's a smaller effect than the blade unless it's *really* bad.
A table saw will be easier, but a circular saw will work as well given the right jig/fixture. If you're never going to use the tool again, you could consider renting the saw. You'll probably want to buy a blade, though--can't really count on a sharp blade on a rental.
posted by RikiTikiTavi at 2:16 PM on June 5, 2009
Response by poster: Plug-in saw = full-sized circular saw? The point of a mini saw is limited work/storage space, and scaling the tool to the piece; a 7-in. blade in a saw the size of a bowling ball seems a bit unwieldy for cutting a 5 or 10x7-in. piece, but what do I know?
It's starting to seem that maybe the table set-up is going to prove as critical to this project as whatever cutter I wind up with. If you were starting completely from scratch (and planning to work out on a deck), would you consider something like a WorkMate, or…? Again, storage when not using is an issue. And thanks for all the input so far!
posted by dpcoffin at 2:40 PM on June 5, 2009
It's starting to seem that maybe the table set-up is going to prove as critical to this project as whatever cutter I wind up with. If you were starting completely from scratch (and planning to work out on a deck), would you consider something like a WorkMate, or…? Again, storage when not using is an issue. And thanks for all the input so far!
posted by dpcoffin at 2:40 PM on June 5, 2009
If you are going to find yourself working on more small projects in the future, a jigsaw can do a wider variety of cuts. The circular is definitely easier for clean, straight cuts.
posted by orme at 2:50 PM on June 5, 2009
posted by orme at 2:50 PM on June 5, 2009
If you want to do this correctly and easily, buy a cheap table saw. They really don't take up that much space. You could even build a storage box and keep it on the deck.
This will be the best way to get repeatable, clean cuts. You'll set your fence to 5" or whatever it may be and rip strips to your hearts content. If you are working with 4x8 sheets, you might want to get them cut in half at the lumber store, or enlist a friend to help you cut them.
Any circular saw would work, but the setup for a guide fence would be time consuming and prone to inaccuracy.
Those that recommended jigsaws are off base. Jigsaws are fine for freehand or curving cuts, but the blades tend to wander when you don't want them to. They are also much slower than circular or table saws.
posted by davey_darling at 2:50 PM on June 5, 2009
This will be the best way to get repeatable, clean cuts. You'll set your fence to 5" or whatever it may be and rip strips to your hearts content. If you are working with 4x8 sheets, you might want to get them cut in half at the lumber store, or enlist a friend to help you cut them.
Any circular saw would work, but the setup for a guide fence would be time consuming and prone to inaccuracy.
Those that recommended jigsaws are off base. Jigsaws are fine for freehand or curving cuts, but the blades tend to wander when you don't want them to. They are also much slower than circular or table saws.
posted by davey_darling at 2:50 PM on June 5, 2009
You know, you might be able to get good results from a decent handsaw, although long, straight cuts will be problematic. I would suggest a miter box, but it wouldn't work for the size material you're talking about.
If you're concerned about price and still want to go the power tool route, Harbor Freight is your friend.
posted by electroboy at 2:54 PM on June 5, 2009
If you're concerned about price and still want to go the power tool route, Harbor Freight is your friend.
posted by electroboy at 2:54 PM on June 5, 2009
Any of these tools will work fine on a deck space. Even a large circular saw is not really unwieldy when cutting small pieces, provided they are clamped down to something larger first.
Just get some simple clamps to keep your work steady.
posted by orme at 2:55 PM on June 5, 2009
Just get some simple clamps to keep your work steady.
posted by orme at 2:55 PM on June 5, 2009
The Fein is a great tool, but not for the task you describe.
From your descriptions, if perfectly straight (and perfectly square) really matter, then the table saw is really the right tool for the job. It's just not really the right tool for you given the situation you describe.
I'd recommend a full sized circular saw, somewhere in the $50-100 range and a clamp on straight edge (and some clamps). If you want to upscale that a bit you could build something like this. I used to know a man who was using something like this to do some pretty nice woodworking.
NOTE: If you go the homebrew table saw route, make sure your guide (or fence as we call it) is parallel to the blade. Reading up on table saw safety is cheaper than a finger reattachment. (For starters-always use the fence or a miter guide (which you won't have) but never both* or neither.)
*There are a few cases where it's OK to use both, but they are beyond the scope of this MeFi answer.
(I think it's a bit of a drive for you, otherwise I'd say figure out what cuts you want to make and send me a mefi-mail and we can work out a time when you can use my table saw.)
posted by Kid Charlemagne at 3:32 PM on June 5, 2009
From your descriptions, if perfectly straight (and perfectly square) really matter, then the table saw is really the right tool for the job. It's just not really the right tool for you given the situation you describe.
I'd recommend a full sized circular saw, somewhere in the $50-100 range and a clamp on straight edge (and some clamps). If you want to upscale that a bit you could build something like this. I used to know a man who was using something like this to do some pretty nice woodworking.
NOTE: If you go the homebrew table saw route, make sure your guide (or fence as we call it) is parallel to the blade. Reading up on table saw safety is cheaper than a finger reattachment. (For starters-always use the fence or a miter guide (which you won't have) but never both* or neither.)
*There are a few cases where it's OK to use both, but they are beyond the scope of this MeFi answer.
(I think it's a bit of a drive for you, otherwise I'd say figure out what cuts you want to make and send me a mefi-mail and we can work out a time when you can use my table saw.)
posted by Kid Charlemagne at 3:32 PM on June 5, 2009
Response by poster: This is great, folks; many thanks!
Inspired (and daunted) by Kid C.'s homebrew table saw idea, I was delighted to find this!
Looks to me like the beginning-sawyer's ideal "clamp-on straight-edge" meets "don't want a table saw." Will explore…
posted by dpcoffin at 7:23 PM on June 5, 2009
Inspired (and daunted) by Kid C.'s homebrew table saw idea, I was delighted to find this!
Looks to me like the beginning-sawyer's ideal "clamp-on straight-edge" meets "don't want a table saw." Will explore…
posted by dpcoffin at 7:23 PM on June 5, 2009
Response by poster: To close this out:
Just back from bartering with my shop-equipped neighbor, who chopped out and sanded up a dozen or so of my rectangles perfectly in about 20 minutes, once we figured out how to divvy up the stock, with his table saw (for the long first cuts) and his miter saw (for knocking off the short bits from the long pieces that would have been awkward to support cross-wise on the table saw). By far the best solution. I bought a WorkMate instead, for the rest of the project; seemed a smarter thing for me to actually own.
Incidentally, he was jig-sawing some curved trim when I arrived. The table saw was so obviously the right tool for my job; interesting to see how handy the miter saw was, and how out of my depth I'd have been with my own new saw… How wonderful to have a shop (sigh!).
Thanks again, all!
posted by dpcoffin at 3:40 PM on June 7, 2009
Just back from bartering with my shop-equipped neighbor, who chopped out and sanded up a dozen or so of my rectangles perfectly in about 20 minutes, once we figured out how to divvy up the stock, with his table saw (for the long first cuts) and his miter saw (for knocking off the short bits from the long pieces that would have been awkward to support cross-wise on the table saw). By far the best solution. I bought a WorkMate instead, for the rest of the project; seemed a smarter thing for me to actually own.
Incidentally, he was jig-sawing some curved trim when I arrived. The table saw was so obviously the right tool for my job; interesting to see how handy the miter saw was, and how out of my depth I'd have been with my own new saw… How wonderful to have a shop (sigh!).
Thanks again, all!
posted by dpcoffin at 3:40 PM on June 7, 2009
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by Pantengliopoli at 1:07 PM on June 5, 2009