What's a good book about the cultural significance of food?

May 18, 2009 9:35 AM

I'm looking for a recommendation for dealing with the relationship between food and culture/society/history

I've always been interested in what we can learn about a culture or society from the food they eat. I find particularly interesting regions that have a number of different groups mixing together, and end up with an amazing mix of cuisines. I'm not as much interested in the actually cooking or recipes, as I am in the more academic side of things. Other things I think would be interesting: The significance of food in different cultures, learning about group of ancient people from the food they ate, and the overall historical significance of food (I'm thinking the Silk Road/spice trade type of stuff). Any and all book recommendations would be greatly appreciated, as would any helpful documentaries or websites.

posted by KilgoreTrout to society & culture (8 comments total)

I was recommended Serve the People: A Stir-Fried Journey Through China and have just started it, but am enjoying it so far.
posted by spec80 at 9:38 AM on May 18

Salt: A World History
Spice: The History of a Temptation
A History of the World in 6 Glasses
An Edible History of Humanity
Food in History
A History of Food
Much Depends on Dinner: The Extraordinary History and Mythology, Allure and Obsessions, Perils and Taboos of an Ordinary Meal
posted by runningwithscissors at 9:47 AM on May 18

Well, you could start with The World of Soy (2008), which got a rave review from Paul Levy in the TLS: 'this exemplary, comprehensive volume shows the way to frame the crucial questions of food studies'. The book is published by the University of Illinois Press as part of their Food Series ('excellent', says Levy), which also includes histories of the peanut and the turkey and a study of African American Foodways.

You might also have a look at the website of Prospect Books, who specialise in books about food and food history. They publish Petits Propos Culinaires, widely regarded as the leading journal of food history, and the proceedings of the Oxford Symposium on Food, Cookery and Food History (latest volume: Eggs in Cookery, with articles on 'ancient eggs in Chinese cookery' and 'the use of egg whites in building Phillippine monasteries'). They also have a useful page of links to other food sites, though it hasn't been updated in a while and some of the links are broken.

If you're looking for one big book on food, you can't do better than Alan Davidson's Oxford Companion to Food, which is amazingly comprehensive. If you're feeling rich you can buy it as part of a two-volume set along with Janis Robinson's Oxford Companion to Wine.
posted by verstegan at 10:33 AM on May 18

I forgot to add these:
Building Houses out of Chicken Legs: Black Women, Food, and Power
Hog and Hominy: Soul Food from Africa to America
Savage Barbecue: Race, Culture, and the Invention of America's First Food
The Food of a Younger Land: A Portrait of American Food--Before the National Highway System, Before Chain Restaurants, and Before Frozen Food, When the Nation's Food Was Seasonal
Starving For Salvation: The Spiritual Dimensions of Eating Problems among American Girls and Women
Born Again Bodies: Flesh and Spirit in American Christianity
posted by runningwithscissors at 10:51 AM on May 18

Great question, I took a class about the importance of food in cultures, and now I wish I still had my syllabus. Looks like no one has listed Sweetness and Power, which was my introduction to the whole subject (it's along the lines of the Salt & Spice books above).
posted by hellogoodbye at 12:13 PM on May 18

No one mentioned Cod, which I believe was written by the same guy who wrote Salt. It's a great, unusual and fascinating book about exactly the sorts of things you're seeking.
posted by Dee Xtrovert at 2:32 PM on May 18

Oh wow, this is an extremely broad question. "Historic Foodways" is actually in my job title, so I've looked at a lot of different sources. I work in the U.S., so I'm most familiar with American foodways.

There are already some great suggestions here, so I'll add a few of my favorite sources:

I would start with some overviews to find specific interests, and then look at their bibliographies for more focused sources. The Oxford Companion to Food is great. I love the Oxford Encyclopedia of Food and Drink in America. Of course, it only covers one country, but it has fascinating articles. It is expensive, even used, but an unbeatable resource. I could spend hours reading it (when I use it at work to look something up, I have to restrain myself from rabbit-holing after all the exciting topics I turn past--"Street Food!" "Ice!" "Chocolate!" etc.)

Online, the Food Timeline makes up in content what it lacks in style. I frequently cannot believe the wealth of information that I find there, and it's free!

I know you're not interested in recipes, but it can be very fun to dig into primary sources--namely, cookbooks. The Feeding America database has a wide range of cookbooks, pictures of food utensils and objects, and a glossary.

Food History News was a weekly newsletter that just recently (sadly) went out of print. Love it, miss it already. There are some articles posted online, and I believe back issues are still available.

There's some great foodways groups, too, that publish materials and hold symposiums. The Southern Foodways Alliance is pretty fantastic.

William Woys Weaver writes wonderful books about Pennsylvania Deutsch foodways. Sometimes he doesn't cite his sources as much as I'd like, but it still makes for a great read. I use Sauerkraut Yankees and Christmas Cook frequently at work. They include recipes, but there's a lot of content there, too. The Christmas Cook has a lot of Victorian food porn.

Books by Sandy Oliver and Karen Hess are also well-researched and interesting. There are a fair amount of recipes, but also a lot of content.

Whew! Hopefully that will be enough to get you started!
posted by Tall Telephone Pea at 3:27 PM on May 18

Pizza: A Global History
Hamburger: A Global History
Pancake: A Global History

We looked at these in an ethnic food seminar this past semester; they are all informative, fun, and short reads. There's also a ton more coming out within the next few months, all based on one type of food item.
posted by derogatorysphinx at 3:46 PM on May 18